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There's been a lot of discussion when it comes to our Burmester Sound System.
Mike has done an awesome break down of this system and advised how best to retune and add to the system to have it perform as we all want it to.
I'm have now started planning an upgrade on my system by adding a couple of subwoofers and amps and a retune of the systems frequencies.
I've had a tonne of stereos where I've added big boxes to the boots of my cars but this time I would like to retain being able to fold my rear seats down.
In all these forums I've only seen a couple of pictures of W205's with subs fitted in their trunks and they have either been two small subs or a single sub boxed.
Has anyone done a custom subwoofer install yet?
I'm sure all us W205 owners would love to see how others out there have designed their sub enclosures be it single/dual boxes, stealth floor or quarter panel enclosures or any other diy or custom design.
Also, does anyone have pictures of a W205 sedan trunk that has been stripped of its interior trim panels and floor tray?
I'm interested to see if our cars have a floor cavity that could house a sub or two.
I was actually in the software today doing some more fine tuning and I realized that I have the trunk sub playing very little. Mainly a hint of extra kick drum emphasis. The dual stock Frontbass speakers are doing most of the heavy lifting.
I tried cutting the trunk bass unit entirely and with enough power (I have them bridged on the Prima at 70 watts each) and the right EQ you could skip the trunk sub completely and rely entirely on the Frontbass units in a Burmester car. Probably not in an A20, which uses a smaller single Frontbass though.
You'd need a DSP amp of some kind to get at the EQ somehow.
I was actually in the software today doing some more fine tuning and I realized that I have the trunk sub playing very little. Mainly a hint of extra kick drum emphasis. The dual stock Frontbass speakers are doing most of the heavy lifting.
I tried cutting the trunk bass unit entirely and with enough power (I have them bridged on the Prima at 70 watts each) and the right EQ you could skip the trunk sub completely and rely entirely on the Frontbass units in a Burmester car. Probably not in an A20, which uses a smaller single Frontbass though.
You'd need a DSP amp of some kind to get at the EQ somehow.
Mike, when you used the JL in your system, did you lose factory volume control???? I'm actually thinking of using that new Helix processor as the one in your setup isn't available easily anymore. Do you think the JL is still necessary?. By the way, is there a way to do your setup without cutting wires by now???
Mike, when you used the JL in your system, did you lose factory volume control???? I'm actually thinking of using that new Helix processor as the one in your setup isn't available easily anymore. Do you think the JL is still necessary?. By the way, is there a way to do your setup without cutting wires by now???
I think the Helix has an adapter harness, not sure if they make one for the Burmester. Otherwise you're cutting wires. On either the Prima or Helix, you're coming in late in the signal chain, after the factory amp. Anything going to the factory amp (including volume) is still coming out of the speakers. You're just adding digital signal processing and more precise control but nothing else changes.
I think the Helix has an adapter harness, not sure if they make one for the Burmester. Otherwise you're cutting wires. On either the Prima or Helix, you're coming in late in the signal chain, after the factory amp. Anything going to the factory amp (including volume) is still coming out of the speakers. You're just adding digital signal processing and more precise control but nothing else changes.
So, what you're saying is, the JL is likely to still be needed? Or does the Helix look like it would strip the VNC signals? I can't tell....
Not sure. Yours might be the first install. If you don't get random bass bursts without the JL you don't need it.
Yeah, the problem is installing the high level inputs without it, finding you need it and then doing it again to the JL. If you run the TOSLINK from the JL to the processor (either the Helix or the Audison), how do you retain factory volume?. Or do you have to run high level inputs to both DSPs?
Yeah, the problem is installing the high level inputs without it, finding you need it and then doing it again to the JL. If you run the TOSLINK from the JL to the processor (either the Helix or the Audison), how do you retain factory volume?. Or do you have to run high level inputs to both DSPs?
We originally came off the high side of the factory amp, into the Prima. When we spliced in the JL, we came off the high side of the factory amp into the JL and then Toslink to the Prima. The Toslink was just a convenience as both the JL and Prima had it. Otherwise we would have wired each channel from the JL to the Prima.
Volume remains whatever is coming off the factory amp in either case. My Focals were $750 but that was two years ago. I've seen them on EBay in that $350 range.
We originally came off the high side of the factory amp, into the Prima. When we spliced in the JL, we came off the high side of the factory amp into the JL and then Toslink to the Prima. The Toslink was just a convenience as both the JL and Prima had it. Otherwise we would have wired each channel from the JL to the Prima.
Volume remains whatever is coming off the factory amp in either case. My Focals were $750 but that was two years ago. I've seen them on EBay in that $350 range.
Mike - here's another thought (sent you PM). If I want to minimize, as a trial experiment, the surgery on the car:
1) Goal is to reduce how high/low the current subs and doors play and add a subwoofer. Is there an easier way to do this without adding an entire DSP system into the vehicle?
I have the JL Audio Sub and an awesome Amp already, as well as a decent bass restorer system.... Thoughts?
To accomplish that you'd need to be able to change the crossover points. Right now they're fixed. That requires a DSP which lets you set the crossovers wherever you want them ( as well as individual speaker control for level, delay, and equalization.)
I think to get the sound where you want it you need a DSP. But I'd put the sub in, and try backing the mids to -10 in COMAND, and see where that gets you.
To accomplish that you'd need to be able to change the crossover points. Right now they're fixed. That requires a DSP which lets you set the crossovers wherever you want them ( as well as individual speaker control for level, delay, and equalization.)
I think to get the sound where you want it you need a DSP. But I'd put the sub in, and try backing the mids to -10 in COMAND, and see where that gets you.
Ok, sounds good.
I haven't gotten the car yet, so I'm just doing planning (there was a delay).
I know you have the Sedan, but do you know if the coupe has everything in the trunk (i.e., battery, etc.)?
Obviously, it would make wiring much simpler....
To accomplish that you'd need to be able to change the crossover points. Right now they're fixed. That requires a DSP which lets you set the crossovers wherever you want them ( as well as individual speaker control for level, delay, and equalization.)
I think to get the sound where you want it you need a DSP. But I'd put the sub in, and try backing the mids to -10 in COMAND, and see where that gets you.
Ok - so I took your advice and ordered the DSP, but the v.Eight as originally planned because the one you are using is discontinued. Any chance you can post or update your write-up on where you set your HIGH/LOW pass filters for each channel, and/or the crossover points?
It would help as I'm already working on the configurations.
Yeah I can break out screen grabs by channel. It will be most effective if you're running the same hardware and configuration.
Initial Config (Configuration Wizard)
Individual channel set ups. Note that the speaker highlighted on the car in the overhead diagram on the left is the speaker being configured.
The car in the diagram must be green, indicating the selected configuration is compatible with the DSP. I have the front mids/tweets on one channel so they are connected by a green bracket with an X, showing the mids/tweets using a single channel with a passive crossover (X). (The bracket starts out white. Clicking it makes it active and turns it green.)
The front subs are bridged over two channels. Note that there is also a bracket around the front subs and the mid/tweet but it's white, meaning it's inactive. (If you clicked on the bracket it would turn green, but the config would be rejected) To bridge channels you must check the selection box beside the speakers you want bridged.
The individual speaker channels are assigned on this screen. If the channels have been correctly assigned the car will be green. Otherwise it's red reflecting a conflict. Note that because the subs were bridged in the previous screen, they can be assigned two channel numbers each (3/4 left sub, 5/6 right sub).
Just to bring this topic to live. I've have recently just upgraded my sub from an active sub to a Boston Acoustic G510 powered by a Xetec G-500 mono. I'm just wondering, since I have a dsp, should I turn down all the settings on my Xetec G-500 and tune solely from my dsp? I currently set my parametric EQ on the Xetec mono to play at 45Hz and my x-over point on my dsp at 90Hz slope 12.
I'll run the crossover as high as it will go and the gain as high as well, knowing I can set both crossover and level precisely (and phase) thru the DSP, and while I'm actually sitting in the cabin tuning the entire system (vs running back and forth to fiddle with the mono in the trunk)
Well my W205 custom Subwoofer boot install is all complete now.
We picked the AMG up this afternoon and my wife and I are super happy with the finished product both sound and design.
My wife got to drive home so she got to listen to her R&B while I got to follow admiring the AMG's presence on the road.
I cant stop looking at the photos I love it so much...
Its amazing how much fuller the sound is now with some strong deep bass and there's a big increase in volume too.
As I don't have a tuned ear and I'm am half deaf from over a decade in the Army, lol, I don't think I'll bother amping or re-processing the speakers as the new system sounds great to me.
Let me know what you think of the finished build and keep an eye out for the next build post on our W205 C250 custom single 12" floor caverty box starting in a couple of weeks.
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