Which fuse from driver side fuse box to use?
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From: Boynton Beach. FL
2017 C300 Coupe, 2013 Cadillac ATS 2.0T
Which fuse from driver side fuse box to use?
Going to install a V-1 tapping into a fuse from the driver side fuse box, but which fuse? I'd like to use a low amp fuse (5 to 7.5 amp) that is only on when the the ignition is on or the equivalent of having pressed the start/stop button two times. If you don't have a fuse box map (it should be in your trunk,) here's a link to download it: https://mbworld.org/forums/attachment...ap-fusemap.pdf
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2015 C300
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 372
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From: Boynton Beach. FL
2017 C300 Coupe, 2013 Cadillac ATS 2.0T
Interestingly, I've done the up the A-pillar/headliner route in my ATS as the fuse box was also located at the end of the driver side dash...and plan to do the same with the C300. However, as I checked out the tightness of the trims' fitting, it seemed to me that the A-pillar fit very, very tightly against the windshield and gave me the impression that either (or both) the V-1 straight power wire (phone cord) and trim would get awfully mashed during the "forcing in" of the wire. Could it be that the fit is tighter in the 2017 coupe than it is in your car?
Last edited by flycaster; Sep 19, 2016 at 07:24 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2016
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2015 C300
First thing I do after I bring a new car home from the dealership is figure out how to hard wire the V1! That probably involved the same amount of searching that you did, I came up with nothing. I eventually just got into the fuse box with a multi meter and found the switched power I needed. The hard part was finding those SAM fuse connectors as I didn't want to do the fuse tap as a permanent solution.
I seem to have plenty of room in the headliner, but had to squeeze the wire in past the a-pillar, then route it in the seam between the a-pillar and the headliner, making sure to not block the aside pillar airbag from deploying if needed. Then under the rubber door trim down to the fuse box.
I have a set of interior tools that make this work a whole lot easier and didn't need to take off the a-pillar trim on this vehicle like I did for BMW. There is enough give in those trim pieces to tuck that wire down below the seam (or it did in my 2015 C300).
I seem to have plenty of room in the headliner, but had to squeeze the wire in past the a-pillar, then route it in the seam between the a-pillar and the headliner, making sure to not block the aside pillar airbag from deploying if needed. Then under the rubber door trim down to the fuse box.
I have a set of interior tools that make this work a whole lot easier and didn't need to take off the a-pillar trim on this vehicle like I did for BMW. There is enough give in those trim pieces to tuck that wire down below the seam (or it did in my 2015 C300).
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 372
Likes: 21
From: Boynton Beach. FL
2017 C300 Coupe, 2013 Cadillac ATS 2.0T
First thing I do after I bring a new car home from the dealership is figure out how to hard wire the V1! That probably involved the same amount of searching that you did, I came up with nothing. I eventually just got into the fuse box with a multi meter and found the switched power I needed. The hard part was finding those SAM fuse connectors as I didn't want to do the fuse tap as a permanent solution.
I seem to have plenty of room in the headliner, but had to squeeze the wire in past the a-pillar, then route it in the seam between the a-pillar and the headliner, making sure to not block the aside pillar airbag from deploying if needed. Then under the rubber door trim down to the fuse box.
I have a set of interior tools that make this work a whole lot easier and didn't need to take off the a-pillar trim on this vehicle like I did for BMW. There is enough give in those trim pieces to tuck that wire down below the seam (or it did in my 2015 C300).
I seem to have plenty of room in the headliner, but had to squeeze the wire in past the a-pillar, then route it in the seam between the a-pillar and the headliner, making sure to not block the aside pillar airbag from deploying if needed. Then under the rubber door trim down to the fuse box.
I have a set of interior tools that make this work a whole lot easier and didn't need to take off the a-pillar trim on this vehicle like I did for BMW. There is enough give in those trim pieces to tuck that wire down below the seam (or it did in my 2015 C300).
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2015 C300
I used 206 at first because 206 was the only switched power in that box with a SAM connector. 205 is the only other empty, switched power place I could tap into once the SAM fuse connector arrived from the UK.
All the other ones are constant power (from my diagnostics).
All the other ones are constant power (from my diagnostics).
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Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Boynton Beach. FL
2017 C300 Coupe, 2013 Cadillac ATS 2.0T
Interesting. 206 is listed for the analog clock. As this is an electric clock that would need power all the time, it doesn't make sense that this would be switched fuse??? 205 is the ignition lock, which does sound as though it should be switched. BTW, I'm going out now to the car to test if the V-1 flat power cord can be easily stuffed into the cracks...
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2015 C300
I was upside down, it's 216 and 217.
217 is emergency/Special purpose vehicle/Electronic toll/
216 is for the glove box light.
I ended with the new SAM connector in 217. https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...l#&gid=1&pid=1
217 is emergency/Special purpose vehicle/Electronic toll/
216 is for the glove box light.
I ended with the new SAM connector in 217. https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...l#&gid=1&pid=1
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 372
Likes: 21
From: Boynton Beach. FL
2017 C300 Coupe, 2013 Cadillac ATS 2.0T
I was upside down, it's 216 and 217.
217 is emergency/Special purpose vehicle/Electronic toll/
216 is for the glove box light.
I ended with the new SAM connector in 217. https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...l#&gid=1&pid=1
217 is emergency/Special purpose vehicle/Electronic toll/
216 is for the glove box light.
I ended with the new SAM connector in 217. https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...l#&gid=1&pid=1
I really don't know as this is just my logical conjecture with real knowledge.
EDIT: Tried jamming the wire down the A-pillar. It was a no go. Credit MB for their tightness of fit. There is just no way to push the wire between the windshield and the pillar. I guess i could take off the a-pilar trim, but as this is a leased car, I'm fearful I may damage the trim. Nonetheless, if someone had a sure-fire way to do it, let me know.
Last edited by flycaster; Sep 20, 2016 at 02:21 PM.
