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I got professionally installed a 10 inch sub, the vpas10, where the spare wheel would go if the car had one. On my base audio system it is night and day difference in sound quality. Install took less than an hour and cost 740$ Canadian all in. Very very pleased with the results.
Fits perfectly. Lifting the trunk floor
Neatly done. Do you get any rattling with the interior floor lid or do you bolt that down somehow?
The floor rattles a bit when the trunk is open, closing the trunk fixes it mostly. While driving on some songs when its extra heavy base I'll hear a little bit of rattle. Keep in mind this is a little sub, it doesn't shake your windows. With all the doors and windows closed, not a lot of sound leaks out, so I can still discretely blast my music and not draw attention.
The 205's trunk floor is actually a plastic tub (which I discovered after mine was badly rear ended) so it might be worthwhile to pull everything out and lay in some Hushmat or Dynamat deadening material in there and up and over the frame rails and out to the quarters. (basically the whole trunk floor). It'll kill the rattles and tighten up the sub's sound as well.
The 205's trunk floor is actually a plastic tub (which I discovered after mine was badly rear ended) so it might be worthwhile to pull everything out and lay in some Hushmat or Dynamat deadening material in there and up and over the frame rails and out to the quarters. (basically the whole trunk floor). It'll kill the rattles and tighten up the sub's sound as well.
Mike - any suggestions for those of us that have all their electronics back there??? My trunk floor looks like a miniaturized computer server room. I would like to clean it up, but don't want to tear things totally apart, if avoidable.
Yeah, unscrew the audio rack from the floor and rotate the whole assembly up and out of your way. Shouldn't be necessary to disconnect any harnesses but they're all quick connect if you do.
Yeah, unscrew the audio rack from the floor and rotate the whole assembly up and out of your way. Shouldn't be necessary to disconnect any harnesses but they're all quick connect if you do.
BTW - did I mention that when I did my version of your "Audison" upgrade, we found a giant zipper back there, underneath the rack and slapping around on the metal body???
LMAO!!!!!!
Yeah, some German dude f'd up his hoodie during assembly of my car.
Nice! Add a set of tweets up front and you'll be golden.
Mike,
Looking to add this Cerwin Vega set up but What do you recommend for a tweeter upgrade? I'm absolutely new to audio upgrades.
Currently have the Burmester surround sound.
I'm not familiar with Cerwin Vega car audio. They do make good pro-sound (PA gear) for bands. I'd recommend the Focal KRS100 K2 Power 4" component two-ways. The 4" in that set is decent but the tweets are really nice. They were originally $700 for the set but I've seen them new on EBay for half that.
Looking to add this Cerwin Vega set up but What do you recommend for a tweeter upgrade? I'm absolutely new to audio upgrades.
Currently have the Burmester surround sound.
upgrade just the sub first, and then turn down the base into the equalizer settings to take the bass off the little speakers. You will notice improvement in sound quality. I'm not an audiophile so this is great for me.
upgrade just the sub first, and then turn down the base into the equalizer settings to take the bass off the little speakers. You will notice improvement in sound quality. I'm not an audiophile so this is great for me.
The only issue with this approach is that you also turn down the amount of bass/change the frequency response of the car to the new subwoofer. In other words, it turns EVERYTHING down, including what the new sub replicates/produces.
Ideally, you want flat to the speakers and then boost bass from there, otherwise you are cutting mid-bass and overall frequency curve of the car.
That being said, if you like the sound that way, then great!
For me, the only solution as to eliminate the extra bass going to the OEM speakers and route that to the new sub, using a new, external, non-OEM crossover device (i.e., a DSP device or an Audison).
Yeah I agree. The car has the mids handled sort of, but it needs the mid bass, low bass and ultra highs. I think you need the sub plus the tweets to fill it out.
I'm also thinking a shallow mount under seat sub like that is ok down low but not great for mid bass. Hard to say without hearing it.
Yeah I agree. The car has the mids handled sort of, but it needs the mid bass, low bass and ultra highs. I think you need the sub plus the tweets to fill it out.
I'm also thinking a shallow mount under seat sub like that is ok down low but not great for mid bass. Hard to say without hearing it.
I was going to say the opposite.
Low, clean, smooth bass requires tremendous amp power, and usually a decent amount of speaker excursion that lower profile solutions just don't offer, in my experience.
I have a low profile, TS series JL now that will NEVER compete with my Boston Acoustics 505 race track sub that would take up 1/2 a trunk and 1000 watts easy!
Yeah I had one of those underseat amps and all it was good for was the "hit", almost like a transducer. Couldn't play higher. My idea of mid bass is best reproduced by good old fashioned 6" woofers low in the doors.
Yeah I had one of those underseat amps and all it was good for was the "hit", almost like a transducer. Couldn't play higher. My idea of mid bass is best reproduced by good old fashioned 6" woofers low in the doors.
Same here, from a mid bass perspective.
I used to bolt transducers to my couches for movie watching and a split off the LFE output.
Nice! Add a set of tweets up front and you'll be golden.
Is it possible to add tweets i.e. the std. MB Burmester/HK tweets without cutting into the existing wires? Haven't seen any for sale with the connectors?
06-24-2017, 04:05 PM
