12.5" IPS Screen 8 core Android 10.0 Android Screen with built in Carplay 4G








I would say aux out mod would have less noise, only if your mod and wiring is soild.
However, I compared the dac method with oem bluetooth sound and couldn't tell the difference.
...but my dragonfly red DAC costs $199 so....
If i didn't mind messing with my headunit i would try the aux mod.
Last edited by benzdude; Apr 27, 2021 at 04:32 PM.
1) Where do you go to download latest versions of Zlink? The version I have is 3.8 but I’m aware there are newer versions out there.
(I’m aware there’s an “update” option from within the app, but if I just wanted to have the app on a handy USB).
2) Can you use two different iPhones with Zlink? Not at the same time, but one iPhone one day and then a totally different iPhone the next day?
Last edited by Ninjadom; Apr 28, 2021 at 09:38 AM.
I purchased a 12.5" N600+ on 3/19 for an '18 C43 Audio20 Headunit with Burmester Package. Didn't ship for about a week but once shipped got it pretty fast. Upon opening the box found no instructions (expected) but with the help of threads like this one was able to get everything up and running. I had a harness with a 3.5mm connection in-line so I was hoping it was all plug and play.
Unfortunately this was not the case no matter what settings I tried so off to connecting the Aux-USB which worked right off the bat, except for one detail. I have no audio on the driver's side (LHD). Switching back to the factory system brings audio to both sides. Naturally I checked all connections, replaced the 3.5mm cable with a better one and reviewed every setting I could find.
I contacted Navifly to try to resolve the issue and they naturally started asking me to check all the connections, I get it, so I did. Then they asked me for a video, so I sent it. Then they sent a picture of a harness and asked me to confirm the Aux Box connection so I did. They asked me to confirm the settings in the console (although getting them to be specific as to what settings and what they should be was like pulling teeth).
All of this sounds reasonable, except those same steps/cycle have been repeated now a few times and I have just been asked to send a video, same one, again. It's been almost four weeks of back and forth between, "send a video friend", "look at this harness, are you using the aux-box?" And "is everything connected" in a cycle with no progress yet.
I'm hopeful to get this resolved, they are responsive (with one of the three responses above) but the process has been long, and incredibly frustrating. For all I know this can be my goof-up but more than anything want to highlight what it's like getting support if you have an issue.
Hope to move towards a resolution soon but with timezones being off (USA to China), we are in the same place we were when I first reached out. This is beginning to feel like getting the run around.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




I purchased a 12.5" N600+ on 3/19 for an '18 C43 Audio20 Headunit with Burmester Package. Didn't ship for about a week but once shipped got it pretty fast. Upon opening the box found no instructions (expected) but with the help of threads like this one was able to get everything up and running. I had a harness with a 3.5mm connection in-line so I was hoping it was all plug and play.
Unfortunately this was not the case no matter what settings I tried so off to connecting the Aux-USB which worked right off the bat, except for one detail. I have no audio on the driver's side (LHD). Switching back to the factory system brings audio to both sides. Naturally I checked all connections, replaced the 3.5mm cable with a better one and reviewed every setting I could find.
I contacted Navifly to try to resolve the issue and they naturally started asking me to check all the connections, I get it, so I did. Then they asked me for a video, so I sent it. Then they sent a picture of a harness and asked me to confirm the Aux Box connection so I did. They asked me to confirm the settings in the console (although getting them to be specific as to what settings and what they should be was like pulling teeth).
All of this sounds reasonable, except those same steps/cycle have been repeated now a few times and I have just been asked to send a video, same one, again. It's been almost four weeks of back and forth between, "send a video friend", "look at this harness, are you using the aux-box?" And "is everything connected" in a cycle with no progress yet.
I'm hopeful to get this resolved, they are responsive (with one of the three responses above) but the process has been long, and incredibly frustrating. For all I know this can be my goof-up but more than anything want to highlight what it's like getting support if you have an issue.
Hope to move towards a resolution soon but with timezones being off (USA to China), we are in the same place we were when I first reached out. This is beginning to feel like getting the run around.
Turn down the volume in the Android screen first.
It could be a faulty usb aux box or 3.5mm jack
Also go into the Android system settings and check volume balance L//R channel levels.
Maybe connect to wifi and install an Android volume app that shows L/R channel ouput visually on screen. Likeva volume meter
Turn down the volume in the Android screen first.
It could be a faulty usb aux box or 3.5mm jack
Also go into the Android system settings and check volume balance L//R channel levels.
Maybe connect to wifi and install an Android volume app that shows L/R channel ouput visually on screen. Likeva volume meter
I did use the L/R in accessibility settings to confirm it's an issue on L/R channels. As I sweep to L the audio goes away.
My suspicions were around the box/jack. I tried another cable and tried cleaning out / inspecting the port with no success. Wish an Aux Box were easily accessible.
I contemplated buying another aux box to test, will probably be my next move.
I have purchased a Match 7UP DSP amplifier to replace the Burmester, I snagged a usb expansion module. Still waiting for it to arrive. I'm curious if connecting the head unit USB sound card to the input of the DSP would eliminate the AuxBox from the equation altogether, as well as the audio delay.
I wonder about the audio switching between the OEM unit (phone calls) and the USB input assuming the above will work.
Has anyone tried the USB output straight into a match DSP with the expansion module?




I have purchased a Match 7UP DSP amplifier to replace the Burmester, I snagged a usb expansion module. Still waiting for it to arrive. I'm curious if connecting the head unit USB sound card to the input of the DSP would eliminate the AuxBox from the equation altogether, as well as the audio delay.
I wonder about the audio switching between the OEM unit (phone calls) and the USB input assuming the above will work.
Has anyone tried the USB output straight into a match DSP with the expansion module?
The factory burmester amp uses Most150 fiber optic for inputs. You would need a Nav-tv Zen-m or a mobridge DA-G2.Standard unit.
...OR you tap into the speaker outs from the burmester app?
I have purchased a Match 7UP DSP amplifier to replace the Burmester, I snagged a usb expansion module. Still waiting for it to arrive. I'm curious if connecting the head unit USB sound card to the input of the DSP would eliminate the AuxBox from the equation altogether, as well as the audio delay.
I wonder about the audio switching between the OEM unit (phone calls) and the USB input assuming the above will work.
Has anyone tried the USB output straight into a match DSP with the expansion module?
In terms of switching sound there is an option in the DSP PC tool to make high level inputs the priority so if there is a phone call that comes through it automatically mutes the optical source and once it ends and no sound comes out of NTG it swaps back to optical all on its own.
The factory burmester amp uses Most150 fiber optic for inputs. You would need a Nav-tv Zen-m or a mobridge DA-G2.Standard unit.
...OR you tap into the speaker outs from the burmester app?
In terms of switching sound there is an option in the DSP PC tool to make high level inputs the priority so if there is a phone call that comes through it automatically mutes the optical source and once it ends and no sound comes out of NTG it swaps back to optical all on its own.
Might go that route in the end, might as well try the USB for now as I already have it.
Thanks for the info!
Another thing I have noticed is that if you run the OEM Mercedes system, the right side of the display does look a bit different betweeen each model. Is it possible to customize this side of the display?
I like the look of it here. But most seem to have an image showing a road with lines in it, looks a bit lower quality.
If you don't use the BT from the screen then using a USB DAC with an external mic is the way to go.
Wish we could continue using the built-in BT handfree when installing an Android screen ...
Even external mic solutions are always crappy
Wish we could continue using the built-in BT handfree when installing an Android screen ...
Even external mic solutions are always crappy
Hi guys, looks like i got a lemon, gps signal is very low on my unit, both waze/gmaps keep losing car position and orientation all the time rendering navi function on my unit completely unusable. Could you please install gps test app and post your signal strength screen to compare? I changed antennas, changed antenna location, nothing helps. Thanks in advance.




