DIY - Serpentine belt replacement helpful hints
Here’s a useful brochure on the M274 engine, with descriptive photos:
https://www.motor-talk.de/forum/akti...hmentId=758372
(All directions assume you are standing in front of the engine bay, facing the engine.)
Steps:
1) Remove air intake ducts and engine cover.
2) Belt tensioner is between the two large pulleys at the bottom of the engine. Visibility is limited, but the tensioner bolt is bright silver. I needed a flashlight (outside, in daylight) to spot it.
3) The tensioner release requires a 12 pt. socket. I tried three different 6 pt. sockets before I learned the trick. Tensioner rotates to the left.
4).The lock to keep the tensioner “open” is to the left of the tensioner release bolt, and on the perimeter of the assembly. I couldn’t see it, had to feel for the opening.
5) I used a 3mm Allen wrench to lock the tensioner open. 4 mm will not fit.
6) Removal/installation of the belt is straightforward. I worked from the bottom up, leaving the upper right pulley for last. It’s a tight fit, but doable.
Here’s a useful brochure on the M274 engine, with descriptive photos:
https://www.motor-talk.de/forum/akti...hmentId=758372
(All directions assume you are standing in front of the engine bay, facing the engine.)
Steps:
1) Remove air intake ducts and engine cover.
2) Belt tensioner is between the two large pulleys at the bottom of the engine. Visibility is limited, but the tensioner bolt is bright silver. I needed a flashlight (outside, in daylight) to spot it.
3) The tensioner release requires a 12 pt. socket. I tried three different 6 pt. sockets before I learned the trick. Tensioner rotates to the left.
4).The lock to keep the tensioner “open” is to the left of the tensioner release bolt, and on the perimeter of the assembly. I couldn’t see it, had to feel for the opening.
5) I used a 3mm Allen wrench to lock the tensioner open. 4 mm will not fit.
6) Removal/installation of the belt is straightforward. I worked from the bottom up, leaving the upper right pulley for last. It’s a tight fit, but doable.
Is the tensioner lock (3mm allen in your writeup) required? Is it not possible to just fully release the tensioner while removing the old belt and installing the new belt? Then re-tension the tensioner into position?
i tried installing the belt without locking the tensioner (since I couldn’t find the holes for the pin). After 20 minutes of wrestling with the belt and my temper while holding the tensioner open I listened to the better half of my brain. The belt has almost no play left even when the tensioner is open, and I couldn’t maneuver it over all the pulleys with the tensioner closed or one-handed with it open.
With the tensioner locked open it took me 2 minutes to fit the belt, working from the bottom pulleys to the top pulleys, leaving the tensioner for last.
if you had a helper holding the tensioner open you won’t need to find the pin’s location.
Last edited by pkaia524; Sep 21, 2020 at 04:14 PM.
Make sure to get the correct belt length! (use EPC to look it up - don't rely on web sites especially for the 4matics).
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