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Just performed the first oil & filter change on my new-to-me W205 C300. What a pain compared to my old W204 C250. The absence of the dipstick on the W205 made this task much, much longer and much, much more of a hassle. On the W204, remove the dipstick, suck out the old oil, then replace the filter. No need to raise the vehicle, slide underneath, remove the under tray, remove the drain plug, drain the oil into a catch pan, replace the crush ring, reattach the under tray, then lower the vehicle. I drained just under 7 quarts and added the same amount of new oil. The electronic gauge showed the level at max. While resetting the service indicator, I noticed the Vehicle Data showed the level as 8.1 quarts and that 1.1 quarts should be drained. However, after driving for about 10 minutes the level shows 7 quarts. I'm all for progress but MB, please bring back the dipstick!
I hear you.... There is a dipstick in every w205 this is out of question. And finally, you did the oil change right by draining it. Dealership will always suck up the oil, but remember, they DON'T care about the car after it is out of warranty. And for the time being under lease or 50k, they surviving it obviously. Their method cannot damage the car in short term.. The oil has many sediments and metal shavings that cannot be removed successfully by sucking the oil. All they do is to spread it around. This is the reason for magnets added to the drain plugs to collect objects and prevent scratches, flow issues (mainly in sensors and valves protected with fine mesh). But you are correct, it is more demanding to drain it. In America, everyone wants it easy and fast...
I hear you.... There is a dipstick in every w205 this is out of question. And finally, you did the oil change right by draining it. Dealership will always suck up the oil, but remember, they DON'T care about the car after it is out of warranty. And for the time being under lease or 50k, they surviving it obviously. Their method cannot damage the car in short term.. The oil has many sediments and metal shavings that cannot be removed successfully by sucking the oil. All they do is to spread it around. This is the reason for magnets added to the drain plugs to collect objects and prevent scratches, flow issues (mainly in sensors and valves protected with fine mesh). But you are correct, it is more demanding to drain it. In America, everyone wants it easy and fast...
It's not a question about America wanting it easy and fast. While MB vehicles had dipsticks, draining the oil through the dipstick tube was the factory-recommended procedure for removing oil. It is easy and fast, but it is also effective.
I can drain the oil and remove the filter on my Boxster without raising the vehicle. I can do the same with my wife's Nissan Murano, where the engineers cleverly designed a hinged panel in the undertray to allow the oil to be drained without removing the under tray. It's MB. They are smart people. They can make it easier.
Interesting, you didn't get the point. I told you above the benefits of draining the oil and Manufacturer DON'T care about your car, especially don't care if it's out of warranty, so will not repeat myself here.
let's see if we can help you out by telling us model car and engine you have? Dipstick and oil filter circled in red, this gas powered c300, 205-20212
Interesting, you didn't get the point. I told you above the benefits of draining the oil and Manufacturer DON'T care about your car, especially don't care if it's out of warranty, so will not repeat myself here.
let's see if we can help you out by telling us model car and engine you have? Dipstick and oil filter circled in red, this gas powered c300, 205-20212
I have 220,000 miles on the W204 C250 and have only drained the oil through the dipstick. I always warm up the engine before changing the oil so that any contaminants are suspended in the oil rather than sitting on the bottom of the oil pan. The engine runs like a top. I recently replaced the camshaft adjusters, and upon inspection, there was little to no wear on the camshafts even after this mileage. This was reasonable proof of no contaminants in the oil.
My signature has the year and model (2020 C300 M274). There is no dipstick. Here is a picture of the engine with the vanity cover removed.
G'Day Fella's,
Alynch, I normally service (minor services), all of my vehicles myself, but not my W204 (C63), as it is to low slung to get under it.
I get a mate/Mechanic Gus and Johnny to service it.
When doing an oil change this includes putting the vehicle up on a hoist, removing the engine sump plug, and also draining the engine Oil Cooler.
Draining the Oil Cooler, is something it would appear, even the local M-B dealerships don't do!
The other thing these good tradesmen do, is they let the old oil drain for 5 minutes-ish, prior to replacing both the sump plug and oil cooler crush washers, and tightening things up again.
Also, I'm not sure what the Imperial (Quarts) equivelant is, but my C63 requires 8.5 liters of engine oil, when both the engine/oil filter, and oil cooler are all drained/replaced.
I hope that helps.
Regards Homer
Hi Homer, it sounds like you've found a couple of excellent mechanics. I should have read the manual further (next page). It explains if you have an oil level sensor rather than a dipstick, you have to check the level after driving for no more than 30 minutes and with the engine idling. That corresponds with my experience driving for 10 minutes, and the oil was at the correct level. The oil capacity for my M274. 2.0 is 7 quarts or 6.6 liters.
G'Day Alynch,
Good to hear, that you have got on top of this.
Yes, Gus and Johnny are not only great blokes, but great Mechanics as well.
I could say more about the M-B service manuals, but let's just say, they put a lot of effort, into placing useful information in them.
Avagreatweekendeh!
Homer
I see, no Dipstick and have to welcome you back to normal and rightfully done oil change. By warming up the oil, you can't get up or out of the system the gush and sediments down there. Took MB too long to realize it. Your camshaft has little to do with it. Problems of duty oil system show up on solenoids switching oil for the cam system. Consider yourself lucky
If any impurities in the oil can reach the camshaft solenoids means those solids must be suspended in the oil. As well as causing issues with the solenoids it would cause scoring on the camshaft journals. I explained before that I always changed the oil when warm so those impurities would be removed when the oil was extracted.
I think the idea was that it is a more robust method and of course there are trade offs, in this case you lose convenience for a more thorough and exhaustive method of changing the oil.
by your own words the folks at MB are a smart bunch. So it’s fair to reason then that perhaps removing the dipstick in favor of a more traditional method was not necessarily an arbitration.
Regardless, it is unfortunate that this shortcut no longer exists on the M274 for you. In the end, it’s a pretty standard procedure that many DIY’ers probably appreciate as it no longer requires a mityvac or equivalent. Pros and cons.
As an engineer, I will say that the flow of solids within a fluid is a complex affair and it is much more fail safe to do an oil change the traditional way. I understand that you’ve never had an issue but one personal account does not a general rule make.
I have 220,000 miles on the W204 C250 and have only drained the oil through the dipstick. I always warm up the engine before changing the oil so that any contaminants are suspended in the oil rather than sitting on the bottom of the oil pan. The engine runs like a top. I recently replaced the camshaft adjusters, and upon inspection, there was little to no wear on the camshafts even after this mileage. This was reasonable proof of no contaminants in the oil.
My signature has the year and model (2020 C300 M274). There is no dipstick. Here is a picture of the engine with the vanity cover removed.
If it is a 2020, and facelift W205, it has a M264, not M274. M274 has the dipstick. The layout of the picture also confirms it is the M264 not M274.
I think the idea was that it is a more robust method and of course there are trade offs, in this case you lose convenience for a more thorough and exhaustive method of changing the oil.
by your own words the folks at MB are a smart bunch. So it’s fair to reason then that perhaps removing the dipstick in favor of a more traditional method was not necessarily an arbitration.
Regardless, it is unfortunate that this shortcut no longer exists on the M274 for you. In the end, it’s a pretty standard procedure that many DIY’ers probably appreciate as it no longer requires a mityvac or equivalent. Pros and cons.
As an engineer, I will say that the flow of solids within a fluid is a complex affair and it is much more fail safe to do an oil change the traditional way. I understand that you’ve never had an issue but one personal account does not a general rule make.
It wouldn't had been an issue at all, because even with the dipstick there you are still able to drain from the bottom if you like to. Just that with the dipstick, you have two options while now you only have the bottom drain being the option.
Another benefit I can see from bottom draining is that if you drop the body cover, you can also have a chance to inspect for any leaks.
If any impurities in the oil can reach the camshaft solenoids means those solids must be suspended in the oil. As well as causing issues with the solenoids it would cause scoring on the camshaft journals. I explained before that I always changed the oil when warm so those impurities would be removed when the oil was extracted.
Friend, you will see error codes on the dash way before scoring damages... That's usually enough to get the vehicle a service. If you do regular oil and filter change, a lot of this won't happen probably, especially with quality products. I am not a fan going against natural flow and forcing liquids up the hill. It works apparently good enough. Below I saw also a comment that removed bottom cover provides a view to inspect for leaks - transfer case, radiator, engine block, etc. With a good lifter and couple of stands, this works pretty good and I admit that it takes longer and it's more difficult, especially for some people at age and with mobility restrictions.
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