mainly

well this was the first time my guy did one so second time it would be easier. it took us about 6 hours. but kleemann said they do it in 2 or 3. so thats not bad really.

at 1/4 the price of the Kleemann pipes i would think theres a reason. id be a little skeptical about those installing those.

except for your turbo pipes are a little longer it looks like. not sure if that will present a priblem getting them in. it may not.

i dont think youll have to worry about making this car too loud. my gt3 is still at least 50% louder than this car even with the Kleemann pipes.

unless you went complete straight pipe no mufflers at all. as far as going 3 inch all the way. dont worry about that. it wont be too loud.

id say my car is about 30% louder now. (at idle barely any louder at all) im thinking of doing the resonator for a little more sound actually.

KLR CLS

Thanks again. I mean a turbo car is never going to be as loud as a highly modder non turbo car. Especially the tight log style manifolds on this car. Knowing me I'll fab up the rest shorely after installing the downpipes.

As for the cks pipes, yes they are Chinese made, hence the price, but they are reasonably high quality. Nice SS cast and polished flanges using tig welds, mandrel bends (not cut and weld but mandrel bent to shape) and good hardware like o ringed v band clamps. Now they did however put a couple of flat crushes in near where they mate to the stock exhaust to clear the center brace. It's actually one of the reasons I want to make the rear section. I would have left it and added spacers to the brace or removed the brace it serves very little purpose anyhow. Hopefully fitment won't bee to tough. I'll do an install summary when I get around to it.

mainly

well sounds like you know what you're getting into. hopefully those pipes will work out ok.

AMG__POWER

Sounds amazing

cocobeex

Wow...my car sounded like yours!!
The backfire pop sound!! and I love it.
High speed, they sounded like F1 and Super Loud going through tunnels.

PS. But mine is not as fast as yours. lol

mainly

Why not as fast?

cocobeex

Mine is not an AMG
My buddy has same mods as my car, dyno showed 476whp/539RWT.

Yours probably has more whp/rwt.

mainly

Not an amg?

Yeah then definitely not as fast...lol.

What is it?

cocobeex

Its an E550, all in my signature.
It runs around 12.2 secs 1/4 mile

Have you dyno'ed your car after tuned ?? or 1/4 mile time ?
Here is a CLS63 renntech tuned 1/4 time.
http://www.dragtimes.com/Mercedes-Be...lip-25045.html

mainly

Wow that's pretty good for an e550.

I'm doing a dyno this week.

Pumpkinate

Did you get the dyno done? I've just been looking at a sample K3 dyno that Kleemann sent me, and I got to say this is a great package, the best value package available IMO. They get a lot of torque improvement without going as far as turbo upgrades.

Zod

Got some pics that give you a bit more insight as to why the stock bridge pipes are the way they are.

Turns out on some of the after market solutions provide heat shields, engine mounts and brackets to make adjustments for the tight space to fit their bridge pipes.

Mainly, would you be so kind as to provide a shot of the section I attached, I know its hard, but maybe at least insight as to how you made it fit?

Was the heat shield removed?

Pumpkinate

Thanks for the pics Zod, it certainly is crowded in there!

mainly

i cant get those shots now. looks like you need the engine out to get those...

but if you look in pics 3 and 4... pic 3 the heat shield and the engine mount are still in. pic 4 theyre removed. to get the old turbopipe out and the kleemann one in. but the heat shield was put back in when/before installing the new turbopipes.

it was tough getting both heat shield and pipe back in. you could get the heat shield in , easy, and the turbo pipe separately, but getting them both in together was hard.

my friend used the transmission jack to move the engine over a bit, ( i dont think it could have been done without one) and someone else wiggled the turbo pipe around until it slid in.
i dont think it was necessary to remove the engine mounts to get the old pipes out, but definitely to get the new ones in, because they are quite a bit bigger.


i could see how someone would look at it and say theres no way it will go in, without dropping the engine, but it will.


but yes you have to put the heat shields back in.

not sure if any of that helps.

im not sure what youre intentions are, but if youre not very handy in this area and dont have ALL the necessary tools (ie. a hoist, transmission jack, a nice selection of wrenches) i wouldnt recommend trying it.

mainly

oh yes i forgot. i did one but waiting to redo as i didnt use dyno mode. so it dyno'd very low. 514 whp hp 606 wtq.

found out later that using dyno mode is apparently a must.

also ordered new performance spark plugs and will go to a different shop as the one i used had very limited experience on mercedes and not much space, the room smelled like gas within a few minutes... lol

i think the best run was 519hp... another showed 650 lbft.. but again 4-5 runs and all were very inconsistent.

but you can see it falls off way too early and the fuel ratio isnt right..

the car does feel very strong... so i will wait and see what the next dyno does.

Pumpkinate

I don't put much faith in an individual dyno result, they seem to vary so much between machines (maybe operators too). I don't know why that is the case, you would think that measuring torque and wheel speed would be an easy task for a machine to do accurately. I think they are useful for detecting a change in torque and power.

An example of how much the results vary can be seen when you ask for sample dyno sheets from the various tuners..... their stock pre-tune results are all over the place. The stock cars can't vary that much, hand built or not.

I remember getting my RS6 tuned with APR and it dynoed well under their claimed power and torque.... at first I was disappointed.... until I got it on street and found it was exactly meeting their 0-100 and quarter mile claims.

It's like what the motoring journalist Matt Farah says, "the giggle dyno don't lie"

mainly

yes i agree. although i still will do at least 1 more dyno is dyno mode to see what is up for real.

Zod

That looks like a dyno jet..and those numbers are not great for what you have, but as u mentioned, yes u have to be in dyno mode .

This is why i told you, u always need to do a before and after mod dyno, just to show the difference. Point is to show the delta

All the best mate

cocobeex

Dyno mode is a must.
The result you have from Dynojet number is off for sure.

And please, do 1/4 mile, this will give you the real number.

cocobeex

you will still need heat shield.
I have got Weistec DP, they also includes new engine mount.
I think new engine mount gave it more room to have DP fit.

mainly

so weistecs pipes require different engine mounts?

wonder why they did it that way... with the kleemann ones you can still use the original engine mounts. i believe weistecs is made up of just 2 sections from the turbo pipes to the resonator, whereas kleemanns is 3 sections... not sure if that has anything to do with it.

mainly

you would think, but i did 1/4 mile with tune only this past summer, ran same times as stock - 12.1-12.3 @ 120 mph

although it was a different tune from different company.

Zod

mind sharing who did the tune, so we do not go through the same thing?

mainly

ams

cocobeex

Yes, Weistec comes with weistec engine mount. I was told this engine mount will give it more room to have dp fitted in.

Is Kleemann a 3inch pipe ??

I heard Weistec Downpipe is the true 3" pipe. Thats why I went with it.
Their downpipe is bigger than I thought when I saw it with my own eyes.

http://weistec.com/all/cls/cls-63/20...cls63-rwd.html

The package includes Downpipe and Midpipe all the way to Resonator.