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Hi I just recently purchased a 2006 CLS 55, I noticed that the hp wasn't all there and after reading some of the information available here it feels there is a loss of about 100-150hp. 0-60 time is 8.5 seconds. I took readings of the IATs and the difference between ambient and IAT is 50-60 degrees F, with IATs reading in the low 130s on a pull and dropping a bit when I catch some speed. Is this IC pump failure? My battery also says it's low as I get a message saying convenience features may not funtion. I'm not sure what's going on some help in the right direction would be appreciated. The car is all stock. Thanks
It sounds like you have a bad intercooler pump which is pretty common and an easy fix. Lots of threads in the w211 AMG forum on fixing that.
The "Low battery, convenience functions unavailable" could be either your battery or your alternator. Both also known issues. If you're around 100k on the original alternator my bet is that the alternator has or is on its way out. I just had mine replaced a few weeks ago due to the same message.
From my experience with mine, if it has the original IC Pump I definitely recommend changing it out. That was a very common issue with the original pump. As for the Convenience function aspect it might be your voltage regulator it sits right on top of your alternator much cheaper then the whole thing lol.
Hey guys thanks for the reply, but if the current pump appears to be functional should I still be replacing it with a new pump?
Thanks
Honestly, if it were me, I'd just go ahead and be proactive about replacing with the upgraded pump. It isn't all that expensive for peace of mind. The alternator is kind of in the same vein, why not be proactive about wear items.
I agree, I'm going to go ahead and order 010 pump and split cooling kit from VRP. Hoping I can the spin the tires once the power is back. Travis at Raceiq has a tune waiting for me once I figure all this stuff out.
I agree, I'm going to go ahead and order 010 pump and split cooling kit from VRP. Hoping I can the spin the tires once the power is back. Travis at Raceiq has a tune waiting for me once I figure all this stuff out.
Why do you feel the split cooling is necessary? Would replacing the IC pump and a larger heat exchanger not suffice? I think I mentioned it in another thread but the formula for decent reliable power on these M113k engines has been hashed out time and time again. Take a look at my thread and see what the basic bolt on formula can do. 506hp 540tq to the ground with just bolt ons and tune.
I agree, I'm going to go ahead and order 010 pump and split cooling kit from VRP. Hoping I can the spin the tires once the power is back. Travis at Raceiq has a tune waiting for me once I figure all this stuff out.
I just had Tony at RaceIQ send me a stage 1 tune for my CLS55 and I only say wow! Throttle response is more crisp and responive. You can feel the extra power all through the power band up the Rev range. All I have is a set Weistec drop in air filters. I still have to replace my heat exchanger pump. I am really excited to see what headers and a slightly smaller pulley change will do. Spinning the tires will not be a problem with this tune!
I just had Tony at RaceIQ send me a stage 1 tune for my CLS55 and I only say wow! Throttle response is more crisp and responive. You can feel the extra power all through the power band up the Rev range. All I have is a set Weistec drop in air filters. I still have to replace my heat exchanger pump. I am really excited to see what headers and a slightly smaller pulley change will do. Spinning the tires will not be a problem with this tune!
I'm thinking of contacting Tony soon as well. Nice that you are happy and can feel a difference. Do you have any before and after data numbers, or is it butt dyno stuff
I'm thinking of contacting Tony soon as well. Nice that you are happy and can feel a difference. Do you have any before and after data numbers, or is it butt dyno stuff
Hello, I am sorry I do not have any quantative data however if you contact Tony or Travis at RaceIQ they will send you the HP and torque gains.
I just changed the IC pump to the newer one. Still dont have the supercharger back online. Ambient air and intake air temperature sensors appear to be working. Can't seem to figure out what is going on here. Any further suggestions would he appreciated. Thanks
So check this out.. i was looking at the pulley trying to figure this out. Noticed a patent number on it.. googled it, and it turns out this is a 77mm UPD Clutched pulley. Previous owner replaced it and there's no ECU tune.. is this what's hurting my performance? We don't even know if it's installed with the correct spacing. Dang it.. now I dont know what else this guy did wrong.
I got in contact with the place I bought the car from. They had a copy of a "service" and it says on a generic template "clutch and pulley replacement" doesn't mention an ect tune. The owner also didnt know anything about a tune either
Ok well Tony can send you a modified tune no doubt.
What belt is the supercharger using if they didnt change ir along with pulley it wont be long enough and slip.
Torque app has a setting for showing the vaccum in psi or in hg or whatever so you need to change that in the settings. Also if your seeing like 20psi boost you need to tell it to adjust for atmospheric pressure which is like 14.7 psi at sea level or something..
Post up the boost your seeing at WOT and your IATs after 2 back 2 back wot pulls.
I think you may need a new belt and some cooling upgrades sounds like the tune made the car faster so you must be seeing boost??? With that 77mm and no cooling upgrades you probably heatsoak quickly
I see around -9 psi on idle. On full boost if you have no headers I'd be expecting ~14psi peak..
If you have no boost at all I think your clutch magnet may not be workin properly.. I haven't any experience with this but I have seen people's fail on the forum before.
An easy solve if that is the case would be a fixed pulley I guess or just get electricity back into the clutch.
Thank you bro for your input, Im seeing barely any boost, 2psi at most on the torque app on a WOT. The app is odd, when i start driving it changes psi to in/hg so i have to convert to psi myself. The highest I see on a pull is 4.5 in/hg. This still remains after I selected the setting to "psi instead of bar"
I havent got the tune uploaded from Tony yet Im just waiting on him to get back to me with the file. The IATs have been great since I changed the IC pump, stay within 15-25F of ambient. It looks like a factory mercedes amg belt as I read the writing on it. I should be changing out that belt I presume for a Gates belt but I dont know what size to get. More confused now than I was when I first got this car
In case anyone else has a similar issue; I dropped the car off to a local Mercedes specialist, he found a fuel pump code in there that our generic code reader couldn't see. Upon further investigation we found that the fuel pump has been wired to run constant so there's issue there which cuts the supercharger out basically driving around in form of limp mode. The previous owner did some weird things with the relay as well instead of an actual repair/replacement so he's putting it all back to the way it should be, when I hear from him I'll post an update.
Have you tried using a different 'monitor' in the torque app to check it?
I know you can use a boost and vacuum setting and another manifold pressure sensor or something from the list of active sensors try a few of the different ones that look relevant and see if you can find something that shows boost...Might be hard if your not making any I guess. In my experience (limited) the in/hg has always been a vaccum value and boost has been in PSI but I've mainly used PSI both negative and positive so can't be sure.
Belt size I think should work (hard for me to say coz I have a belt wrap kit) Gates K080505HD or similiar. The tensioner should make it so it doesn't matter too too much if its a bit long, but that belt is 5mm shorter than factory so should help IF slipping is your problem, but it'd have to be slipping completely to not generate ANY boost.
Why don't you try taking off your supercharger pulley belt and run the car, see if it runs basically the same to confirm the supercharger is not engaging despite being driven by the belt. If its running the same must be either a bad clutch magnet or BPV is stuck open maybe?
Nice, glad you got it sorted. That is the thing with these cars you can investigate a bit but throwing it on a scanner usually points you in the right direction.
To fix all the shoddy wiring and replace fuel pump/harness the mechanic quoted $2600. Looks like I'm going to just hav to bite the bullet on this one and get it done
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