Changed the plugs and wires...BIG difference!
09-19-2006, 04:00 PM
#126
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I had my mind made up until I read this thread. I'm now stuck...16 or 20?
Part of me wants to go with the 16 because others have reported no issues and the other part of me says go with the 20 and be safe. I do have the RennTech Pulley / ECU upgrade, and the SL55 Intake Splitter so maybe the 20 is better for me. I drive the car hard and have a 70 mile a day commute to and from work. I do plan on getting headers at some point.....
Part of me wants to go with the 16 because others have reported no issues and the other part of me says go with the 20 and be safe. I do have the RennTech Pulley / ECU upgrade, and the SL55 Intake Splitter so maybe the 20 is better for me. I drive the car hard and have a 70 mile a day commute to and from work. I do plan on getting headers at some point.....
i am running IK22's with no problem at all, car pulls harder than with the IK 16's...
09-20-2006, 08:42 AM
#129
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09-20-2006, 06:03 PM
#131
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09-20-2006, 07:30 PM
#132
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Personally I would never run a hotter plug with a forced induction car. You're asking for trouble with detonation. The rule of thumb has always been retain the same heat range as stock (IK20 for Denso or 5 for NGK) or go colder (IK22 or 7 for NGK) if you've increased the compression in any way. IMO, I think 1Fast32's car does pull harder due to the ability for the computer to advance timing. The only risk you run with colder plugs is fouling.
09-20-2006, 08:03 PM
#133
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C32 AMG
Well, I've read enough. I just ordered the IK22's and wires from the links above. Lookin forward to bustin my knuckles soon.
Thanks for all the input guys!
Thanks for all the input guys!
09-20-2006, 08:13 PM
#134
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09-20-2006, 08:20 PM
#135
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with the more information we have..
K20 or K22 would be the choice
K16 is probably too hot for Stage 1
on a personal note.. I do see some top end pull, but my varies from day to day..
I'm changing the IC pump and I feel that is really my biggest problem.
Would I do the plugs and wires on my E55... probably not worth the trouble
For those of you that have the ability and time, it is a good mod but it did not have a big difference with me.
K20 or K22 would be the choice
K16 is probably too hot for Stage 1
on a personal note.. I do see some top end pull, but my varies from day to day..
I'm changing the IC pump and I feel that is really my biggest problem.
Would I do the plugs and wires on my E55... probably not worth the trouble
For those of you that have the ability and time, it is a good mod but it did not have a big difference with me.
09-23-2006, 04:39 PM
#136
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03 C32
My car is pretty much stock excpet for a recently installed Sprint Boster. So would it be best to run the IK-20's? I plan on getting ECU/pulleys done sometime in the next 6 months. With that said, would it be better to get the colder IK-22 with the HP i will gain from the ECU & pulleys? Or stick with the IK-20's?
09-23-2006, 04:51 PM
#137
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C32 AMG
My car is pretty much stock excpet for a recently installed Sprint Boster. So would it be best to run the IK-20's? I plan on getting ECU/pulleys done sometime in the next 6 months. With that said, would it be better to get the colder IK-22 with the HP i will gain from the ECU & pulleys? Or stick with the IK-20's?
09-23-2006, 05:03 PM
#138
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I'm getting the stage 2 power package pretty soon so I asked them about the Denso Iridium IK16 vs IK20 plugs. Their response is that either one is fine with their kits and there should be no problem running with IK20's (safety- and performance-wise) - even though they recommend IK16's.
09-23-2006, 09:40 PM
#139
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my suggestion would be to go with the 22's...
09-25-2006, 02:17 PM
#140
I find it odd that based upon conjecture and speculation, everyone seems willing to go to a colder plug than that recommended by the manufacturer of the aftermarket parts themselves. It seems to me that Evosport has done the R&D on this, and chosen the IK16 for their Stage II (Link). If the IK20 or IK22 is the better choice, why would they specify the IK16?
(Edit: Sorry, I guess the link doesn't show IK16 specifically. However, that is what they specify/what you get when you order Stage II from them.)
(Edit: Sorry, I guess the link doesn't show IK16 specifically. However, that is what they specify/what you get when you order Stage II from them.)
Last edited by m3_eater; 09-25-2006 at 02:25 PM. Reason: Clarify link
09-25-2006, 03:17 PM
#141
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I find it odd that based upon conjecture and speculation, everyone seems willing to go to a colder plug than that recommended by the manufacturer of the aftermarket parts themselves. It seems to me that Evosport has done the R&D on this, and chosen the IK16 for their Stage II (Link). If the IK20 or IK22 is the better choice, why would they specify the IK16?
(Edit: Sorry, I guess the link doesn't show IK16 specifically. However, that is what they specify/what you get when you order Stage II from them.)
(Edit: Sorry, I guess the link doesn't show IK16 specifically. However, that is what they specify/what you get when you order Stage II from them.)
09-28-2006, 03:07 PM
#142
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C43, SLK32, CLK63 Black Series
OK, I went with the IK-20 & Magnecor wires.
Got the plugs from LTB motorsports.
They were $80.68 shipped UPS 3 Day.
Got the plugs from LTB motorsports.
They were $80.68 shipped UPS 3 Day.
09-28-2006, 04:11 PM
#143
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09-28-2006, 05:54 PM
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white and whiter
I find it odd that based upon conjecture and speculation, everyone seems willing to go to a colder plug than that recommended by the manufacturer of the aftermarket parts themselves. It seems to me that Evosport has done the R&D on this, and chosen the IK16 for their Stage II (Link). If the IK20 or IK22 is the better choice, why would they specify the IK16?
(Edit: Sorry, I guess the link doesn't show IK16 specifically. However, that is what they specify/what you get when you order Stage II from them.)
(Edit: Sorry, I guess the link doesn't show IK16 specifically. However, that is what they specify/what you get when you order Stage II from them.)
09-28-2006, 06:12 PM
#145
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C43, SLK32, CLK63 Black Series
Finally decided to go with 20s. I bought 16s but never installed them so I just got another 4 and I'll use the 16s in my C43. Jerry's car pulled a very good dyno with 20s and there is less of a chance of fouling. It would be great to see a dyno of 16s vs 20s vs 22s.
09-28-2006, 06:20 PM
#146
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the manufacturer Denso recommended the IK20 plugs which is a colder plugs than the IK16 that they manufacturer. However the IK16 based on reading is already colder than the stock plugs, so either one should work. As far as how they compare I have no idea. I've been lagging on getting this done...
when you take the stock mercedes NGK plug # IFR6D10 and plug it into www.sparkplugs.com as a part number, then cross reference it, you get the IK20 plug by Denso...
09-28-2006, 06:30 PM
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white and whiter
Incorrect, the stock plug equivalent is the IK20, colder would be IK22...
when you take the stock mercedes NGK plug # IFR6D10 and plug it into www.sparkplugs.com as a part number, then cross reference it, you get the IK20 plug by Denso...
when you take the stock mercedes NGK plug # IFR6D10 and plug it into www.sparkplugs.com as a part number, then cross reference it, you get the IK20 plug by Denso...
09-28-2006, 06:34 PM
#148
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funny how this thread started and how much we have discovered since then...
<-----------me
09-28-2006, 08:21 PM
#149
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And I would have to disagree. I think that the plugs make all the difference and the wires do nothing. I changed my plugs to IK-22's long ago and it has made a world of difference( lower water temps and it acts like I am running high octane gas when I am running just 91). I am using the stock wires. How about if someone just changes the wires and we will see if they can tell any difference.
09-28-2006, 10:42 PM
#150
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And I would have to disagree. I think that the plugs make all the difference and the wires do nothing. I changed my plugs to IK-22's long ago and it has made a world of difference( lower water temps and it acts like I am running high octane gas when I am running just 91). I am using the stock wires. How about if someone just changes the wires and we will see if they can tell any difference.
it would be an interesting experiment...but we will probably never know
