Changed the plugs and wires...BIG difference!
09-29-2006, 06:13 PM
#151
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Audi C7.5 S6
Spark plug wires get ratty after a few years, for optimum performance, the wires should be replaced about every 3-4 years or 36k miles.
Same goes for the spark plugs. Then can work to 100k miles, but to get maximum performance, replacement at least about every 3-4 years or 36k miles.
If someone with a Stage1 or Stage 2 upgrade and at least 36k miles has the original plugs and wires, most likely, even replacing with stock plugs and wires will make a significant difference.
Same goes for the spark plugs. Then can work to 100k miles, but to get maximum performance, replacement at least about every 3-4 years or 36k miles.
If someone with a Stage1 or Stage 2 upgrade and at least 36k miles has the original plugs and wires, most likely, even replacing with stock plugs and wires will make a significant difference.
10-13-2006, 09:24 AM
#153
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10-17-2006, 06:56 PM
#157
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I got my IK20's today for $8 ea from Auto Parts Warehouse in Garden Grove, CA.
Questions for you DIY'ers before installing this w/e:
Do you put some antiseize compound on the threads before installing?
Also, is it necessary to tighten the plugs in two stages (first to 21 NM, let equilibrate for a minute or two, and then tighten to 28 NM)?
Thanks!
Questions for you DIY'ers before installing this w/e:
Do you put some antiseize compound on the threads before installing?
Also, is it necessary to tighten the plugs in two stages (first to 21 NM, let equilibrate for a minute or two, and then tighten to 28 NM)?
Thanks!
10-17-2006, 07:37 PM
#158
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I got my IK20's today for $8 ea from Auto Parts Warehouse in Garden Grove, CA.
Questions for you DIY'ers before installing this w/e:
Do you put some antiseize compound on the threads before installing?
Also, is it necessary to tighten the plugs in two stages (first to 21 NM, let equilibrate for a minute or two, and then tighten to 28 NM)?
Thanks!
Questions for you DIY'ers before installing this w/e:
Do you put some antiseize compound on the threads before installing?
Also, is it necessary to tighten the plugs in two stages (first to 21 NM, let equilibrate for a minute or two, and then tighten to 28 NM)?
Thanks!
10-23-2006, 12:05 AM
#159
Super Member
I was able to the the torque wrench in ok though - I had a bunch of different sized extensions. I made sure I put antiseize on the threads!
In any case, the stock plugs (iridium also) didn't look too bad for 56K miles. The stock wires came out nicely using a curved long-nosed pliers for the firewall-closest ones. Even though the magnecors go on easy and there is a nice 'click', they just seem like they could fall off pretty easy (compared to the stocks).
In any case, here's a link to the old plugs (in order). Take a wild guess at which ones are closest to the firewall!
http://www.myimagehub.com/view.php?u...ld%20plugs.jpg
10-23-2006, 10:07 AM
#160
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Just got finished putting IK20's and Magnecor wires on. Took 2 1/2 hours because of those damn plugs nearest the firewall! What a PITA!
I was able to the the torque wrench in ok though - I had a bunch of different sized extensions. I made sure I put antiseize on the threads!
In any case, the stock plugs (iridium also) didn't look too bad for 56K miles. The stock wires came out nicely using a curved long-nosed pliers for the firewall-closest ones. Even though the magnecors go on easy and there is a nice 'click', they just seem like they could fall off pretty easy (compared to the stocks).
In any case, here's a link to the old plugs (in order). Take a wild guess at which ones are closest to the firewall!
http://www.myimagehub.com/view.php?u...ld%20plugs.jpg
I was able to the the torque wrench in ok though - I had a bunch of different sized extensions. I made sure I put antiseize on the threads!
In any case, the stock plugs (iridium also) didn't look too bad for 56K miles. The stock wires came out nicely using a curved long-nosed pliers for the firewall-closest ones. Even though the magnecors go on easy and there is a nice 'click', they just seem like they could fall off pretty easy (compared to the stocks).
In any case, here's a link to the old plugs (in order). Take a wild guess at which ones are closest to the firewall!
http://www.myimagehub.com/view.php?u...ld%20plugs.jpg
10-23-2006, 12:07 PM
#161
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Audi C7.5 S6
Dielectric grease is really to keep moisture and corrosion out of the electrical connection, but it also makes a good rubber/plastic lubricant.
http://www.ferret.com.au/articles/b3/0c0285b3.asp
Did you use dielectric grease on the boots, to eliminate friction, putting them on? If the boots are not fully seated, they will pull the electrical connection off. They can function like a compressed spring around the outside of the connector.
If the electrical connector ends get spread, they will not hold well.
Alternatives to the Magnacor are Evosport (not cheap), Mercedes OEM, maybe cheaper than Evosport.
http://www.ferret.com.au/articles/b3/0c0285b3.asp
Did you use dielectric grease on the boots, to eliminate friction, putting them on? If the boots are not fully seated, they will pull the electrical connection off. They can function like a compressed spring around the outside of the connector.
If the electrical connector ends get spread, they will not hold well.
Alternatives to the Magnacor are Evosport (not cheap), Mercedes OEM, maybe cheaper than Evosport.
Last edited by m444; 10-23-2006 at 12:12 PM.
10-28-2006, 11:17 PM
#162
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2006 Weistec 3.0L SC'd C55, 2006 MaxPsi PT6466 Turbo'd M3, 2019 Maserati GTS , 2020Alfa Quadrifoglio
C55 Supercharged Spark Plugs
Does anybody have a Supercharged C55 that changed their stock plugs? I think the stock ones are NKG's IFR5D10 while the C32's are IFR6D10.
The equivalent to the IFR6D10 is the DENSO IK20. I figured I should go with either NKG's IFR7D10 or the DENSO IK22. I also see from Sparkplugs.com that the gap on a C55 is .040 while the C32 is .044.
Is there a risk that the plugs would foul if I go 2 stages colder than stock by adding a Supercharger, ECU, etc..?
What plugs do Kleeman or Rentech SC/d C55's use? I guess I could call them directly but I'd like to get some feedback or advice from my fellow forum members.
The equivalent to the IFR6D10 is the DENSO IK20. I figured I should go with either NKG's IFR7D10 or the DENSO IK22. I also see from Sparkplugs.com that the gap on a C55 is .040 while the C32 is .044.
Is there a risk that the plugs would foul if I go 2 stages colder than stock by adding a Supercharger, ECU, etc..?
What plugs do Kleeman or Rentech SC/d C55's use? I guess I could call them directly but I'd like to get some feedback or advice from my fellow forum members.
10-29-2006, 04:57 AM
#163
Super Member
Dielectric grease is really to keep moisture and corrosion out of the electrical connection, but it also makes a good rubber/plastic lubricant.
Did you use dielectric grease on the boots, to eliminate friction, putting them on? If the boots are not fully seated, they will pull the electrical connection off. They can function like a compressed spring around the outside of the connector.
If the electrical connector ends get spread, they will not hold well.
Alternatives to the Magnacor are Evosport (not cheap), Mercedes OEM, maybe cheaper than Evosport.
Did you use dielectric grease on the boots, to eliminate friction, putting them on? If the boots are not fully seated, they will pull the electrical connection off. They can function like a compressed spring around the outside of the connector.
If the electrical connector ends get spread, they will not hold well.
Alternatives to the Magnacor are Evosport (not cheap), Mercedes OEM, maybe cheaper than Evosport.
AMGSC - I think the general consensus is that colder plugs are appropriate depending on a combination of your driving style (i.e. how you drive on the street and whether you track your car) and how much hp you have acquired over the stock hp rating. I forget how much you actually gained after your HPS SC (maybe 60-70?), but that would probably warrant a plug one stage colder. Then again, some of the guys here have put forth good arguments for why they haven't done this.
10-29-2006, 02:17 PM
#164
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Audi C7.5 S6
The optimum spark gap is determined by the effective compression ratio, which is a combination of static compression ratio (from the engine) and the boost (from the blower). The higher the effective compression ratio, the smaller the plug gap. But one should use the widest gap, that does not misfire at max boost and max RPM.
A wider gap, keeps the plugs cleaner and less likely to foul. Run the stock gap, unless you run into misfires at max boost, high RPM.
The plugs should be the hotest one can use, without overheating the plug tip, which can cause cracking, melting the electrode and detenation.
Generally when running higher boost, one will run a colder plug, to prevent detenation, from too hot of a plug, but if most of the time is spent, not in heavy boost, then one runs the risk of fouling the plug, because it is too cold. The plug needs to be hot enough to burn off residues.
A wider gap, keeps the plugs cleaner and less likely to foul. Run the stock gap, unless you run into misfires at max boost, high RPM.
The plugs should be the hotest one can use, without overheating the plug tip, which can cause cracking, melting the electrode and detenation.
Generally when running higher boost, one will run a colder plug, to prevent detenation, from too hot of a plug, but if most of the time is spent, not in heavy boost, then one runs the risk of fouling the plug, because it is too cold. The plug needs to be hot enough to burn off residues.
10-30-2006, 06:54 PM
#165
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2006 Weistec 3.0L SC'd C55, 2006 MaxPsi PT6466 Turbo'd M3, 2019 Maserati GTS , 2020Alfa Quadrifoglio
The optimum spark gap is determined by the effective compression ratio, which is a combination of static compression ratio (from the engine) and the boost (from the blower). The higher the effective compression ratio, the smaller the plug gap. But one should use the widest gap, that does not misfire at max boost and max RPM.
A wider gap, keeps the plugs cleaner and less likely to foul. Run the stock gap, unless you run into misfires at max boost, high RPM.
The plugs should be the hotest one can use, without overheating the plug tip, which can cause cracking, melting the electrode and detenation.
Generally when running higher boost, one will run a colder plug, to prevent detenation, from too hot of a plug, but if most of the time is spent, not in heavy boost, then one runs the risk of fouling the plug, because it is too cold. The plug needs to be hot enough to burn off residues.
A wider gap, keeps the plugs cleaner and less likely to foul. Run the stock gap, unless you run into misfires at max boost, high RPM.
The plugs should be the hotest one can use, without overheating the plug tip, which can cause cracking, melting the electrode and detenation.
Generally when running higher boost, one will run a colder plug, to prevent detenation, from too hot of a plug, but if most of the time is spent, not in heavy boost, then one runs the risk of fouling the plug, because it is too cold. The plug needs to be hot enough to burn off residues.
What should these IK22's for a C55 be gapped at ? .044 (stock C55) or .040 (stock C32)? My Supercharger kit is a roots style which runs hotter than the twin-screw OEM SC in the C32's so I figured that I should go 2 stages colder than stock (NGK IFR5D10). The stock plug for the C32 is NGK IFR6D10. I figured that the NGK7D10 and the DENSO IK22 have the same heat range. Doe the Denso IK22 even fit a C55?
Last edited by AMGSC; 10-30-2006 at 06:58 PM.
10-31-2006, 10:15 AM
#166
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Audi C7.5 S6
When it comes to horsepower, a little is good, more is better and too much is just right.
When it comes to tunning, it's all about balance & control. One should be careful about going overboard, when tunning. Try a little bit, then check out the results.
On the plugs, one step colder, maybe, with 7lbs boost. Try the stock gap, first, if it misfires or cuts out at high RPM then drop the spark gap a small amount (maybe 0.002" or 0.004" if misfire is more severe), then try it out.
One should look at the plugs (read the plugs), to tell, if the plugs are running too hot or too cold.
Your blower only bumps up the boost slightly, but it has a fairly high amount of static compression on the engine, unlike the C32.
When it comes to tunning, it's all about balance & control. One should be careful about going overboard, when tunning. Try a little bit, then check out the results.
On the plugs, one step colder, maybe, with 7lbs boost. Try the stock gap, first, if it misfires or cuts out at high RPM then drop the spark gap a small amount (maybe 0.002" or 0.004" if misfire is more severe), then try it out.
One should look at the plugs (read the plugs), to tell, if the plugs are running too hot or too cold.
Your blower only bumps up the boost slightly, but it has a fairly high amount of static compression on the engine, unlike the C32.
04-07-2007, 07:12 PM
#167
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Well, great thread. I ran Denso IK-16's on my C43 with the maganacor KV85 set. I am rather certain that the same plugs are to be used on the C55 as well. Sparkplugs.com recomends IK-16 for the 2002 E55 AMG: same engine as the 2005 C55 and no SC. The listings I did find for the C55, incorrectly listed a FI V8. Not our engine. So, from the above discussion, prior experience and the sparkplugs.com list, I went with IK-16's for my C55. I've got the KV85's already and evo sport underdrive pulleys. The reason for me to use the IK-16 is that I get a better spark with a lower drain on the electrical system, smoother idle and slightly better acceleration.
07-07-2007, 09:02 PM
#169
I just put in the Denso 5303 plugs and the engine idles much smoother. Didn't see a real gain in power or response though -- I'll assume 95 degree weather had a little to do with that....
Plugs that came out seemed to burn well but were due to be replacedm (58,000 right at 6 years). The part number that came out was IFR6D10 NGK's.....were these the OE part numbers??? They look like iridium plugs as well. I was under the impression that the OE's were platinum plugs or what not???????
Plugs that came out seemed to burn well but were due to be replacedm (58,000 right at 6 years). The part number that came out was IFR6D10 NGK's.....were these the OE part numbers??? They look like iridium plugs as well. I was under the impression that the OE's were platinum plugs or what not???????
07-07-2007, 10:42 PM
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white and whiter
I just put in the Denso 5303 plugs and the engine idles much smoother. Didn't see a real gain in power or response though -- I'll assume 95 degree weather had a little to do with that....
Plugs that came out seemed to burn well but were due to be replacedm (58,000 right at 6 years). The part number that came out was IFR6D10 NGK's.....were these the OE part numbers??? They look like iridium plugs as well. I was under the impression that the OE's were platinum plugs or what not???????
Plugs that came out seemed to burn well but were due to be replacedm (58,000 right at 6 years). The part number that came out was IFR6D10 NGK's.....were these the OE part numbers??? They look like iridium plugs as well. I was under the impression that the OE's were platinum plugs or what not???????
07-07-2007, 11:07 PM
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02 C32 AMG sold!
07-08-2007, 01:17 PM
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07-08-2007, 07:44 PM
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C32
I have been looking at the IK20s and IK22s, and I think I may go with the 22s as they have a much smaller plug gap (0.44 compared to 0.32) , which seems to be preferable as you increased boost on a FI application. Also with just the pulley, and hot weather in brisbane, I am hoping the IK22s will control heat a bit better. I can't really see any reason not to try the IK22s, as if they foul to early from being to cold, I can just use IK20s next time.
07-08-2007, 08:22 PM
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SLK32
I have been looking at the IK20s and IK22s, and I think I may go with the 22s as they have a much smaller plug gap (0.44 compared to 0.32) , which seems to be preferable as you increased boost on a FI application. Also with just the pulley, and hot weather in brisbane, I am hoping the IK22s will control heat a bit better. I can't really see any reason not to try the IK22s, as if they foul to early from being to cold, I can just use IK20s next time.
