1FASTC32's Cheep Intercooler Pump Replacement
02-19-2007, 09:15 AM
#151
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C32 AMG
no you are not missing anything...i used a couple of regular female connectors and cut them in half with wire cutters and crimped them down so they would stay in place once they were connected to the pump (i used the kind that have the plastic sheath on the outside to prevent the two from making contact...then faced the open/cut off part toward the outside of the pump)
if this is not making any sense, just PM me your number and i can call and explain in a little more detail or try to send some pics...
if this is not making any sense, just PM me your number and i can call and explain in a little more detail or try to send some pics...
02-19-2007, 11:20 AM
#152
good plan, let us know when you get it finished...
02-20-2007, 03:56 PM
#153
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C32 AMG
Well, I went to Radio Shack, and this time was able to find a pair of female slide-on terminals that match the Ford Lightening S/C pump prongs perfectly. They slide on with a really good push, so there's not chance of losing contact. I coated the terminals with paint-on insulator for corrosion resistance.
So, once I pick up a gallon of Benz antifreeze, I will have my supercharger "quick fix" kit ready to go. My pump works fine right now, but I'm at 42,000 miles, making me a prime candidate for failure. Paranoid much?
===================
Does anyone know the routing and whether it's feasible to put a piggyback radiator between the pump and the intercooler? I'm assuming it routes that way. If the pump "sucks" from the IC and pumps to the radiator, then nevermind. Seems to me that separating the motor coolant from the IC coolant doesn't help if the IC heats up the coolant and the coolant source does not have its own radiator. And using the motor coolant might be fine if you just put another in-line radiator cooling the coolant before it enters the S/C. And of course the whole thing may be overkill. Just thinking out loud.
So, once I pick up a gallon of Benz antifreeze, I will have my supercharger "quick fix" kit ready to go. My pump works fine right now, but I'm at 42,000 miles, making me a prime candidate for failure. Paranoid much?
===================
Does anyone know the routing and whether it's feasible to put a piggyback radiator between the pump and the intercooler? I'm assuming it routes that way. If the pump "sucks" from the IC and pumps to the radiator, then nevermind. Seems to me that separating the motor coolant from the IC coolant doesn't help if the IC heats up the coolant and the coolant source does not have its own radiator. And using the motor coolant might be fine if you just put another in-line radiator cooling the coolant before it enters the S/C. And of course the whole thing may be overkill. Just thinking out loud.
02-20-2007, 10:23 PM
#157
02-20-2007, 11:29 PM
#158
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02-21-2007, 08:12 PM
#159
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2002 C32 ///AMG
02-21-2007, 11:31 PM
#160
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It is from the W203 service CD. ~$60 directly from MB; (800)367-6372, or www.startekinfo.com
2 - Coolant expansion reservoir
110/2 - Charge air cooler
110/11 - Low temperature cooler
B17/8 - Charge air temperature sensor
B28 - Pressure sensor (charge air)
M44 - Charge air cooler circulation pump
A - Coolant return flow
B - Coolant feed
"..The charge air cooler (110/2) is connected to a separate coolant circuit with a low temperature cooler (110/11) and an electrical charge air cooler pump (M44). The air heated during the charge operation dissipates its heat to the coolant which flows through the charge air cooler..."
2 - Coolant expansion reservoir
110/2 - Charge air cooler
110/11 - Low temperature cooler
B17/8 - Charge air temperature sensor
B28 - Pressure sensor (charge air)
M44 - Charge air cooler circulation pump
A - Coolant return flow
B - Coolant feed
"..The charge air cooler (110/2) is connected to a separate coolant circuit with a low temperature cooler (110/11) and an electrical charge air cooler pump (M44). The air heated during the charge operation dissipates its heat to the coolant which flows through the charge air cooler..."
02-22-2007, 10:57 AM
#161
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2002 C32 ///AMG
It is from the W203 service CD. ~$60 directly from MB; (800)367-6372, or www.startekinfo.com
2 - Coolant expansion reservoir
110/2 - Charge air cooler
110/11 - Low temperature cooler
B17/8 - Charge air temperature sensor
B28 - Pressure sensor (charge air)
M44 - Charge air cooler circulation pump
A - Coolant return flow
B - Coolant feed
"..The charge air cooler (110/2) is connected to a separate coolant circuit with a low temperature cooler (110/11) and an electrical charge air cooler pump (M44). The air heated during the charge operation dissipates its heat to the coolant which flows through the charge air cooler..."
2 - Coolant expansion reservoir
110/2 - Charge air cooler
110/11 - Low temperature cooler
B17/8 - Charge air temperature sensor
B28 - Pressure sensor (charge air)
M44 - Charge air cooler circulation pump
A - Coolant return flow
B - Coolant feed
"..The charge air cooler (110/2) is connected to a separate coolant circuit with a low temperature cooler (110/11) and an electrical charge air cooler pump (M44). The air heated during the charge operation dissipates its heat to the coolant which flows through the charge air cooler..."
http://www.mercedestechstore.com/w203.htm
That's a lot of money for something like that, but I guess everything from MB is expensive, eh?
02-22-2007, 08:26 PM
#162
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03 C32
First of all thank you thank you thank you for this advise. What a money saver. I have a tip to save you from getting wet. I used two quick grip clamps with the flat rubber ends to clamp off the hoses before removing them from the pump. It worked great
02-23-2007, 01:34 AM
#163
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Audi C7.5 S6
The DVD/CD service info manual is:
The part number is: P-2700-203-06. You can order by calling 1-800-FOR-MERCedes. Price is $60.00 plus shipping.
This is NOT the same as Part Number TT-2814-CD, which is $95
https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c55-amg-w203/170731-c-class-model-203-service-maintenance-dvd.html
The part number is: P-2700-203-06. You can order by calling 1-800-FOR-MERCedes. Price is $60.00 plus shipping.
This is NOT the same as Part Number TT-2814-CD, which is $95
https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c55-amg-w203/170731-c-class-model-203-service-maintenance-dvd.html
05-24-2007, 04:40 PM
#164
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02 C32 AMG sold!
Why are the pump from at www.buyfordracing.com as seen here:
http://www.buyfordracing.com/shop/pr...roducts_id=580
goes around $400+ at the dealers?
and yes I've went to three local dealers around here and two
of them offered me wholesale (20% because of my tax ID from
my restaurant) still came around $320 ish...
What gives?
http://www.buyfordracing.com/shop/pr...roducts_id=580
goes around $400+ at the dealers?
and yes I've went to three local dealers around here and two
of them offered me wholesale (20% because of my tax ID from
my restaurant) still came around $320 ish...
What gives?
05-24-2007, 04:49 PM
#165
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C32 AMG
Why are the pump from at www.buyfordracing.com as seen here:
http://www.buyfordracing.com/shop/pr...roducts_id=580
goes around $400+ at the dealers?
and yes I've went to three local dealers around here and two
of them offered me wholesale (20% because of my tax ID from
my restaurant) still came around $320 ish...
What gives?
http://www.buyfordracing.com/shop/pr...roducts_id=580
goes around $400+ at the dealers?
and yes I've went to three local dealers around here and two
of them offered me wholesale (20% because of my tax ID from
my restaurant) still came around $320 ish...
What gives?
WOW. Keep an eye on Ebay. That's where I bought mine. It was under $90. Maybe I should have bought a few.
05-24-2007, 05:20 PM
#166
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02 C32 AMG sold!
that there's anything wrong with my C32, but I'm heading to
the dyno this Tuesday and was hoping to install it by this
weekend.
Gonna order it online & probably head out to the dyno again...
06-02-2007, 07:40 PM
#167
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2011 C63, 2004 S500, 2013 E350, 2013 Ody Elite
Just returned from 20 miles test drive with the new Lighting Pump and it works its wonder! No more cut off power at any speed and hearing that S/C high pitch sound none stop does feel great again.
A few notes from the replacing process. The instruction was excellent! It's a 2 hours job if you have all the tools you need.
1. Here are Tools other then already mention in the installation instruction, I think is useful:
- 2 lockable pliers (less then 5-6 inch version will be better due to the space) to open those spring-loaded hose clamps. Keep them open if you going to reuse them. (don't relase them. that's why u need 2.)
- 1 flat head for removing those plastic nuts (from the center) and use to stick to the side of the old pump to remove the rubber housing.
- 1 plier handly to pull those plastic nuts.
- 2 Big towels for your back and knee and sucking all those coolent.
- a pack of beer for working on those screws on Lighting Pump. They are so soft due to the plastic housing vs. stock's metal housing so they use very soft screws.
2. For ppl do it yourself and doesn't know how much coolent will come out from the hoses. It's about a bottle of 16fl coke of coolent. I am suprised my coolent still look full after its done.
3. I was able to find those correct size female connectors from local auto parts shop with plastic cover all the way to the tip. It works great. Just have to tap it all the way up to the side of lighting connector house so it won't come loose.
4. The plactic wheel wall are a pain to put it back in place...those plastic nuts won't inline to the holes.
Thank you all for the instructions and tips.
Cheers.
A few notes from the replacing process. The instruction was excellent! It's a 2 hours job if you have all the tools you need.
1. Here are Tools other then already mention in the installation instruction, I think is useful:
- 2 lockable pliers (less then 5-6 inch version will be better due to the space) to open those spring-loaded hose clamps. Keep them open if you going to reuse them. (don't relase them. that's why u need 2.)
- 1 flat head for removing those plastic nuts (from the center) and use to stick to the side of the old pump to remove the rubber housing.
- 1 plier handly to pull those plastic nuts.
- 2 Big towels for your back and knee and sucking all those coolent.
- a pack of beer for working on those screws on Lighting Pump. They are so soft due to the plastic housing vs. stock's metal housing so they use very soft screws.
2. For ppl do it yourself and doesn't know how much coolent will come out from the hoses. It's about a bottle of 16fl coke of coolent. I am suprised my coolent still look full after its done.
3. I was able to find those correct size female connectors from local auto parts shop with plastic cover all the way to the tip. It works great. Just have to tap it all the way up to the side of lighting connector house so it won't come loose.
4. The plactic wheel wall are a pain to put it back in place...those plastic nuts won't inline to the holes.
Thank you all for the instructions and tips.
Cheers.
06-04-2007, 02:59 PM
#168
Hi all,
My factory IC pump just went the way of the dodo bird after I got the Spring coolant flush/fill performed at the local MB dealership. Right away I ordered the Lightning pump for a replacement, but I wanted the install to look factory and also make for quick R&R if/when it fails down the road again (another 65K miles?). I contacted a friend who works in the auto industry here - there are a few perks to living in SE Michigan
- to see if we could find the correct connector, and after a little homework he did. Here's what you need to get your own instead of settling for some ghetto way of connecting the new pump:
First, a few pics of the Lightning pump. Note the Bosch part number:
Here's the connector that fits:
Schematic for the part:
Detail of the useful part of the schematic:
Here's the POS Mercedes-Benz connector prior to removal:
...and here is the new connector wired in. It looks & works great!
.
My factory IC pump just went the way of the dodo bird after I got the Spring coolant flush/fill performed at the local MB dealership. Right away I ordered the Lightning pump for a replacement, but I wanted the install to look factory and also make for quick R&R if/when it fails down the road again (another 65K miles?). I contacted a friend who works in the auto industry here - there are a few perks to living in SE Michigan
- to see if we could find the correct connector, and after a little homework he did. Here's what you need to get your own instead of settling for some ghetto way of connecting the new pump:First, a few pics of the Lightning pump. Note the Bosch part number:
Here's the connector that fits:
Schematic for the part:
Detail of the useful part of the schematic:
Here's the POS Mercedes-Benz connector prior to removal:
...and here is the new connector wired in. It looks & works great!
.
06-04-2007, 03:11 PM
#169
SPONSOR
Hi all,
My factory IC pump just went the way of the dodo bird after I got the Spring coolant flush/fill performed at the local MB dealership. Right away I ordered the Lightning pump for a replacement, but I wanted the install to look factory and also make for quick R&R if/when it fails down the road again (another 65K miles?). I contacted a friend who works in the auto industry here - there are a few perks to living in SE Michigan - to see if we could find the correct connector, and after a little homework he did. Here's what you need to get your own instead of settling for some ghetto way of connecting the new pump:
First, a few pics of the Lightning pump. Note the Bosch part number:
Here's the connector that fits:
Schematic for the part:
Detail of the useful part of the schematic:
Here's the POS Mercedes-Benz connector prior to removal:
...and here is the new connector wired in. It looks & works great!
.
My factory IC pump just went the way of the dodo bird after I got the Spring coolant flush/fill performed at the local MB dealership. Right away I ordered the Lightning pump for a replacement, but I wanted the install to look factory and also make for quick R&R if/when it fails down the road again (another 65K miles?). I contacted a friend who works in the auto industry here - there are a few perks to living in SE Michigan
- to see if we could find the correct connector, and after a little homework he did. Here's what you need to get your own instead of settling for some ghetto way of connecting the new pump:First, a few pics of the Lightning pump. Note the Bosch part number:
Here's the connector that fits:
Schematic for the part:
Detail of the useful part of the schematic:
Here's the POS Mercedes-Benz connector prior to removal:
...and here is the new connector wired in. It looks & works great!
.
Where did you pick up the connector from?
06-05-2007, 01:42 PM
#170
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Connector part number
Where did you buy the connector from? Looks I'll have to do this to my 02' C32, but seems I went went a little further in miles (68K) be fore it went bad.
Hi all,
My factory IC pump just went the way of the dodo bird after I got the Spring coolant flush/fill performed at the local MB dealership. Right away I ordered the Lightning pump for a replacement, but I wanted the install to look factory and also make for quick R&R if/when it fails down the road again (another 65K miles?). I contacted a friend who works in the auto industry here - there are a few perks to living in SE Michigan - to see if we could find the correct connector, and after a little homework he did. Here's what you need to get your own instead of settling for some ghetto way of connecting the new pump:
First, a few pics of the Lightning pump. Note the Bosch part number:
Here's the connector that fits:
Schematic for the part:
Detail of the useful part of the schematic:
Here's the POS Mercedes-Benz connector prior to removal:
...and here is the new connector wired in. It looks & works great!
.
My factory IC pump just went the way of the dodo bird after I got the Spring coolant flush/fill performed at the local MB dealership. Right away I ordered the Lightning pump for a replacement, but I wanted the install to look factory and also make for quick R&R if/when it fails down the road again (another 65K miles?). I contacted a friend who works in the auto industry here - there are a few perks to living in SE Michigan
- to see if we could find the correct connector, and after a little homework he did. Here's what you need to get your own instead of settling for some ghetto way of connecting the new pump:First, a few pics of the Lightning pump. Note the Bosch part number:
Here's the connector that fits:
Schematic for the part:
Detail of the useful part of the schematic:
Here's the POS Mercedes-Benz connector prior to removal:
...and here is the new connector wired in. It looks & works great!
.
06-06-2007, 03:03 PM
#171
SPONSOR
Did you buy this from the dealership or an online vendor??
06-07-2007, 03:20 PM
#172
Sorry for the delay in responding - I've been very busy.
Here's the story. The Bosch connector part number is 1928402571. The Delphi equivalent is 12131678 - this is the part I posted the schematic of. The actual full Delphi connector catalog is here: http://connectors.delphi.com/DCSGDMC...vID=Automotive
A good source for pretty much any automotive electrical component is Terminal Supply, located right here in Troy, MI: http://terminalsupplyco.com/
The best thing is to call their 800 number or fill out the web form under "Quick Order". Since you are ordering in single digit quantities, expect to pay several dollars for parts that cost the manufacturers pennies or dimes.
Enjoy!
Here's the story. The Bosch connector part number is 1928402571. The Delphi equivalent is 12131678 - this is the part I posted the schematic of. The actual full Delphi connector catalog is here: http://connectors.delphi.com/DCSGDMC...vID=Automotive
A good source for pretty much any automotive electrical component is Terminal Supply, located right here in Troy, MI: http://terminalsupplyco.com/
The best thing is to call their 800 number or fill out the web form under "Quick Order". Since you are ordering in single digit quantities, expect to pay several dollars for parts that cost the manufacturers pennies or dimes.
Enjoy!
06-08-2007, 10:42 AM
#173
SPONSOR
Sorry for the delay in responding - I've been very busy.
Here's the story. The Bosch connector part number is 1928402571. The Delphi equivalent is 12131678 - this is the part I posted the schematic of. The actual full Delphi connector catalog is here: http://connectors.delphi.com/DCSGDMC...vID=Automotive
A good source for pretty much any automotive electrical component is Terminal Supply, located right here in Troy, MI: http://terminalsupplyco.com/
The best thing is to call their 800 number or fill out the web form under "Quick Order". Since you are ordering in single digit quantities, expect to pay several dollars for parts that cost the manufacturers pennies or dimes.
Enjoy!
Here's the story. The Bosch connector part number is 1928402571. The Delphi equivalent is 12131678 - this is the part I posted the schematic of. The actual full Delphi connector catalog is here: http://connectors.delphi.com/DCSGDMC...vID=Automotive
A good source for pretty much any automotive electrical component is Terminal Supply, located right here in Troy, MI: http://terminalsupplyco.com/
The best thing is to call their 800 number or fill out the web form under "Quick Order". Since you are ordering in single digit quantities, expect to pay several dollars for parts that cost the manufacturers pennies or dimes.
Enjoy!
Hi Jerry,
I am sorry that I am unable to process your order as received.
The item you requested is not stocked at our warehouse.
The factory has a 3000 piece minimum with a lead time of 11 weeks.
I would also have to get pricing, it is not currently in our system.
If your would like me to get pricing and you are willing to take
3000 pieces please let me know.
Thank you for the opportunity to serve you.
Judy Kline (aka Chummy)
Terminal Supply Company
PH: 248-362-0790 ext. 1105
FAX: 248-362-0824
JudyK@terminalsupplyco.com
06-08-2007, 10:56 AM
#174
OK, did what you said and this is the reply I got.
Hi Jerry,
I am sorry that I am unable to process your order as received.
The item you requested is not stocked at our warehouse.
The factory has a 3000 piece minimum with a lead time of 11 weeks.
I would also have to get pricing, it is not currently in our system.
If your would like me to get pricing and you are willing to take
3000 pieces please let me know.
Thank you for the opportunity to serve you.
Judy Kline (aka Chummy)
Terminal Supply Company
PH: 248-362-0790 ext. 1105
FAX: 248-362-0824
JudyK@terminalsupplyco.com
Hi Jerry,
I am sorry that I am unable to process your order as received.
The item you requested is not stocked at our warehouse.
The factory has a 3000 piece minimum with a lead time of 11 weeks.
I would also have to get pricing, it is not currently in our system.
If your would like me to get pricing and you are willing to take
3000 pieces please let me know.
Thank you for the opportunity to serve you.
Judy Kline (aka Chummy)
Terminal Supply Company
PH: 248-362-0790 ext. 1105
FAX: 248-362-0824
JudyK@terminalsupplyco.com
so take 2999 of them and save them for a rainy day...
