Another 'jerk at 1500 rpm" saga for your entertainment
The vibration is identify as a drive-shaft problem. Parts is order and waiting... hopefully that will fix the vibration for sure.
Other items were replaced/serive during the last 1 month:
New A/C compressor, New Engine mount (try to ID the vib.), new radiator (defect radiator) and flash tq converter, New batt., Service A with new wipers and brake line flashed.
I'm going to press harder on the vibration at 40-50 since last time they said it was the front tires causing it (strange since I've taken the car in for this same vibration through 3 completely different sets of tires.
The vibration is identify as a drive-shaft problem. Parts is order and waiting... hopefully that will fix the vibration for sure.
Other items were replaced/serive during the last 1 month:
New A/C compressor, New Engine mount (try to ID the vib.), new radiator (defect radiator) and flash tq converter, New batt., Service A with new wipers and brake line flashed.
I replaced all 4 tires just to make sure they can’t blame me for having a old tires or flat spots.
At first, technician can’t duplicate the problem (as usual), so my advisor ask one of the chief technician to test drive with me (he drove). He did feel the vibration when he release the gas and let it cruise from 70mph.
On the invoice paper, they wrote: “ Road tested, found vibration to occur at 50mph and would get worse as speed was increased intermittently. Checked all wheels for correct balance, all ok. Road tested with SDS, checked and monitored all actual values, all ok. Checked all transmission shift adaptations, all ok. Disengaged torque converter as vibration occurred, found no difference with or without. Retorqued front and rear flex discs bolts. Retorqued left and right drive shaft bolts. Retorqued rear differential mounting bolts. Re road tested, found vibration still there. R/R left and right drive axles, retested found still there. Tested on vehicle hoist, found drive shaft out of balance. Drive shaft not in stock, will be ordered per shop foreman, R.S. 7/6/2006. "
Somehow 40-50mph vib still can't duplicate when shop foreman did his test drive by himself. I think this replacement of drive shaft should be able to fix this problem.
The vibration is identify as a drive-shaft problem. Parts is order and waiting... hopefully that will fix the vibration for sure.
Other items were replaced/serive during the last 1 month:
New A/C compressor, New Engine mount (try to ID the vib.), new radiator (defect radiator) and flash tq converter, New batt., Service A with new wipers and brake line flashed.
how much did this run you?
Customer States: car will jerk when pulling away from a stop see previous R.O. for diag. (Has T.A.C. case.) torque converter mech. fault. part ordered when vehicle was under warranty. removed transmission assy. replaced torque converter assy. mil out 46165.
Parts 1 converter, 4, trans fluid, 1 lock pin
also had a rear lightbulb replaced for which they charged me $5.35.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Well, after few test drive over the weekend...I still feel the vibration but is way better then before but still vib a little. I'm going to drive a little more and go back to dealer to tell them how to duplicate the vibration. It's wear that once the car is warmup to normal temp, the vib is gone...
and...I'm already out of warranty but dealer can't get away not to fix the vibration problem. but I rather have no problem!
Well, after few test drive over the weekend...I still feel the vibration but is way better then before but still vib a little. I'm going to drive a little more and go back to dealer to tell them how to duplicate the vibration. It's wear that once the car is warmup to normal temp, the vib is gone...
and...I'm already out of warranty but dealer can't get away not to fix the vibration problem. but I rather have no problem!

Well, this morning I'm driving around town and the jerk is pretty strong at 1500 rpm. I drove to my dealer and the Tranny Tech jumped in the car with me and we drove for a few minutes. He finally felt what I've been complaining about all this time. He had me leave the car with the SA and he ran to get the other tranny guy to plug in the computer and drive it around.
Several hours later I received a call from the SA saying they found the problem and "it's a bit complicated, I'll give you details tomorrow". When pressed for more info, he only admitted that there was some sort of "oil leak" that has "corrupted the controller". Huh?
I'm looking forward to learning the whole story on this one and, even more, driving a car that doesn't try to snap my neck with some wierd jerk between 2nd and 3rd gear. I'll keep you posted on the final outcome, hopefully tomorrow.
I'm thinking if they can get the Gyrol test at 200-250mg in just 1 month from the last flush, that means they didn't fix the radiator leak to tranny at all...since my last test is also 200-250mg before replacing the radiator.
I'm thinking if they can get the Gyrol test at 200-250mg in just 1 month from the last flush, that means they didn't fix the radiator leak to tranny at all...since my last test is also 200-250mg before replacing the radiator.
Part of the new TSB states:
1. Clear all adaption values.
2. Verify if condition is still present.
3. If condition is still present after clearing all EGS ECU adaption values, perform glycol test.
NOTE: Steps 4 and 5 do NOT apply to AMG Vehicles (203.065, 209.376 and 211.076).
4. If condition is no longer present after clearing all EGS ECU adaption values, replace the EGS ECU with updated software with part number listed in parts information table.
5. If condition reappears after EGS ECU software updates, perform glycol test.
Perform repair based on the test result:
1. Up to 100 mg/liter of glycol contamination do not perform any repair (considered normal due to condensed water and not a leak).
2. As of 100 mg/liter of glycol contamination, replace radiator. Clean and flush the transmission with the torque converter and transmission oil cooler lines. Refer to WIS Document AR27.55-P-0100A.
3. If the condition is still reproducible after the flush routine, replace the torque converter.
Last edited by Moxxon; Aug 8, 2006 at 02:38 AM.
I will try to paraphrase the invoice as this:
"Found fluid in ETC. Checked function and operation, found vehicle Jerk in between 2-3 gear" (instertion here; that is the first time i've see the dealer find and document a "jerk") "Test w/DAS, checked for codes, no codes found, test drove vehicle w/SDS and monitor torque converter lock-up. Found during engagement of tourque converter, engaging hard causing jerk. Checked trans control module, found trans fluid in ETC connector. Inspect trans connector, found trans fluid leaking internal. Determined fluid in ETC cause of problem. R&R valve body, replaced electrical plate and installed updated pilot bushing in trans. Replaced trans control modual, performed transmission and adaption and torque converter adaption after repairs. Found trans OK at this time........"
The parts list inclueds, amongst other parts, a trans oil filter, trans gasket, seal ring and cleaner.
They want me to drive it for 800-1000 miles to allow the trans to "adopt" to my driving habits.
I may be extra sensitive to the Jerk now, but I'd swear that I might still feel it now and again. But then, I've only put about 20 miles on it since I picked it up.
I hope that this work should keep my tanny going alot longer than it would have gone before this work.
By the way, everything was covered by CPO.
I was only a block from home , so I went home, shut it down for a moment to unload some crap from the car and planned to run it down to the dealer. You guessed it, the big BAM! subsided. Oh, it still hurts like hell, when it jerks. But I am going on vacation tomorrow, so It'll have to wait till next week. I hope like hell that they replace my converter next time. I already have a new ECU and wiring harness from this episode. Heck, maybe it'll all be new by the time it gets fixed.
I was only a block from home , so I went home, shut it down for a moment to unload some crap from the car and planned to run it down to the dealer. You guessed it, the big BAM! subsided. Oh, it still hurts like hell, when it jerks. But I am going on vacation tomorrow, so It'll have to wait till next week. I hope like hell that they replace my converter next time. I already have a new ECU and wiring harness from this episode. Heck, maybe it'll all be new by the time it gets fixed.
Last edited by amgme; Aug 16, 2006 at 10:38 PM.
My power-loss is intermittent as well.
Bif
searched various threads and didn't find a definitive solution to prob. my tranny is smooth otherwise.
could this simply be a traction/esp issue? i'm still on ps2s have not put on snows yet. plan on calling evosport in a bit see what they say but any interim feedback or info will be welcome.
Normally, the clutch lockup occurs at an RPM just above the stall speed.
If the stall speed occurs above the lockup of the clutch, then you will feel, the clutch engage.
Jeez, sorry for the off topic tangent...
Last edited by SilverBulletAMG; Dec 27, 2006 at 01:01 PM.
Last month I had my car's resonator removed. I know, the resonator has nothing to do with the tranny jerk, but wait. I have noticed, immediately following the resonator delete, that the jerk is now non-existent (almost). I'd guess that 75-80% of the time the transmission shifts, from 2nd to 3rd, are smooth as silk. Hmmm....
Now, how in the hell could a deleted resonator affect the jerk?
I'm assuming it's a back pressure thing. Whatever it is, I like it. My car is nearly perfect now, without the BAM! or clunk it used to have.


