sorry to hear that.

you can search for my "**** mercedes" thread to take out you frustrations


i see a 911 in your future

Chyates, I paid $2900

I have been really busy with work..

but thanks for the support.

As far as the noise, its really coming from the kompressor pulley attached to the clutch. I doubt the clutch is the real problem.

I have found so regain strength to fix the car and keep it just a bit longer.

I can deal with the problems, I just dont expect it from a car with 63k miles.

I'll keep you guys posted.

If your kompressor is grining, replace the pulley first and see if that helps. That is what I plan to do.


BTW:

EXTENDED WARRANTY IS A MUST. IF YOU GUYS HAVE THE MONEY AND YOUR MANUF. WARRANTY IS ABOUT TO EXPIRE, DON'T WAIT LIKE ME.

do you have a part number for just the pulley? thanks...

Erick,

I'm going to my parts dept today or tomorrow and I'll provide to the rest of the crew...

tks,

joe

sounds good, i am going to do a full write-up/how-to once i get some parts together and can dig into the unit and figure some things out, especially with many of the C32's getting up there in mileage, it will be a great help for long term...

I called the dealer, and the part number is 1122020119 they quoted me $90. They don't have it in stock though.

I hope my noise is just a $90 issue that I can fix myself.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Don't bother replacing the pulley, just a waste of $90. Take a towel or gloves, turn the car on, grab the SC clutch for a few sec and you'll notice the noise will diminish and as soon as you release it it'll come back. It can't be the pulley for a couple of reasons: pulleys don't go bad at low miles no matter what you do with the car, if it was a bad pulley it would wabble and your belt would show signs of wear or it would have snapped already and the noise is only there untill the SC clutch dissengages. If it was a pulley the noise would always be there. If you can't stand the noise just replace the SC because there is no real way around it, ther noise will get worse though. You can also move the SC clutch while the car is off and you'll hear the noise. I went to 5 different mechanics and 4 out of 5 told me to replace the pulleys but they were wrong.Also, someone should post a clip of the grinding noise of their SC this way other members will be able to compare when theirs goes bad, I wish i did it when mine was bad.

I have only noticed the sound when the car is at idle, I can't tell if the noise continues when driving down the road, or when the SC engages.

Should you still hear the noise once the SC engages? If this is the case how do you get the SC to engage while in park. Do you just run the RPM's up past 3k?

Thanks for the feedback.
Chad

the supercharger will not engage while the car is in park...

So if have the noise in park it shouldn't be the S/C clutch?

It is the clutch... take the cover off the SC/engine. Grab the clutch with a towel or gloves while the car is running and you'll hear the noise diminish as soon as you let go it will come back

This is good suggestion. Even though the S/C clutch is not engaged at idle/park, there is still some small friction present that would make the S/C blades rotate and potentially make the noise in your case. When you grab the clutch (ware glove!), you will actually stop the S/C rotation. This would have not been possible if clutch was engaged. If the noise disappears when S/C stops rotating, then it is likely a S/C issue.

PLEASE BE CAREFUL IF YOU DO THIS!!!!!

i don't want to hear any horror stories of someone loosing a limb because they did not really pay attention to what they were doing...

Maybe someone should post a picture showing EXACTLY where to grab. Gloves might help with the friction, but I'd hate to see someone get a glove tangled in a drive belt.

wanna sell it cheap? ill take it...or prehaps u want to trade for my BMW? PM me

I put on a nice thick leather glove, and I didn't grab it but instead I used the base of my palm to apply pressure.

So when I did this to get it to quit spinning and the SC was no longer moving it was still making the grinding noise.

So does this indicate a bad pulley, or clutch? I am guessing this means bad pulley since the clutch is not engaged, and the SC is no longer spinning.

Man sorry to hear this Topgun, when I was looking for my car this was one of the reasons I went NA and the C55.

On a side note, what made you decide to get rid of the IS in such a short amount of time if it gave you no troubles.

Its not that the IS isn't satisfying its just imo that we want bigger and better things. I bet if he knew like I found out later the issues with quality on AMG cars I bet he nor I would have ventured into it. I personnally didn't think it could happen with all the issues it would have been in the shop 3 times in 6 months while my IS only was in for oil changes

So you both had IS350's then. I had the IS300 and it was under powered. I would have gone with the 350 but the lines just didn't cut it for me and my wife was going to be the sole driver and she wanted a Benz, chicks and their attitudes. I just wanted something with power and both cars have it. I also wanted new and I could have gotten a new 07 IS350 for the price I paid for this used 05 C55. Now the only sad part is the benz will drop like a rock and the Lexus will just stay steady in value. My next car will be something that won't drop like 5-7 grand a year in value.

I'm going to fix the car, since I have narrowed my problem to 2 things.

bad bearing on the kompressor clutch and bad bearings on the pulley.

They both make noice.

I applied pressure to the clutch and the noise is still there. Actually 1 particular sound pitch was gone but the pulley noise is still there.


one I fix and I have it good working condition.. it will be sold and replaced with a 335i coupe.

I'll already got bit with the bug and I can't shake it.

it wont remain stock.. since I will take it to Vishnu for tunning.

and the modding continues.....

If the IS500 or LS-F is cheap enough with all the toys I will get it.

my kompressor is back to normal...

the bearings on the clutch were failing.

Total cost of the repairs $110. (80 labor + 30 parts and shipping)


It cost me $690 to diagnose a check engine light and bad compressor clutch bearing at the Dealer, which I now regret 100%.

My car had a number of problems that compounded each other.

1) I clean my Green filters and broke 3 bolts with my power drill. check engine came on. I knew the check engine light was on due to the air box but my bearings went out.

2) compressor clutch bearigs were making noises for quite some time, but now the compressor would shut off after within 1 hour of use. Sometimes after a few minutes. The dealer told me that the clutch was stuck at idle and the compressor was on, due to faulty bearing.

I think I just jumped the gun, thinking it was a major issue. I know these engines are bullet proof and I know the tranny is robust. The only issues with these cars are cooling, electrical and bearings and pullies. Which are all easy to fix.


Anybody is So Cal that would like to have thier compressor clutch bearings replaced for under $100, let me know and I'll take you to my little "ghetto" shop in Ontario. They have worked on my E55 and C32 with no problems. The owner used to work for a MB shop before.

Next up on my repair list:
fog lens
bent wheel

and maybe putting back my Evosport pullies.

these problems are exactly why i decide not to get another kompressor. too many issues...