Super Charger grinding noise
01-25-2007, 03:16 PM
#26
I just saw your other post. Awsome work.
In my particular case I'm thinking the SC bearings are going bad. So I will replace those.
Just need to find a place who carries them. I tried to google for those bearings DAC32550023 and I found them out of the country.
I'll keep trying..
In my particular case I'm thinking the SC bearings are going bad. So I will replace those.
Just need to find a place who carries them. I tried to google for those bearings DAC32550023 and I found them out of the country.
I'll keep trying..
if you find them, let me know, i haven't taken the time to search yet...but if i can gather up the parts to do this myself, the i will do a complete how-to, could save us a lot of money!
01-25-2007, 04:59 PM
#27
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I keep records of everything I do to the car... Here is a breakdown of the parts that were replaced when I took care of the SC noise. I search for the current prices... this should give you a pretty good idea of how much to spend in parts.
1202000470 - Roller ($39.75)
1122020119 - Roller ($51.75)
1122001070 - Tensioner ($186.00)
1129970092 - Belt ($43.50)
1121840261 - Oil Cooler Seal ($18.75)
1121840361 - Oil Cooler Seal ($16.88)
DAC32550023 - Bearing (No Part Found - should be no more than $70)
Don't make the mistake to order the parts at a counter's stealership. To order at better prices go here:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=213951
Hope this helps.
1202000470 - Roller ($39.75)
1122020119 - Roller ($51.75)
1122001070 - Tensioner ($186.00)
1129970092 - Belt ($43.50)
1121840261 - Oil Cooler Seal ($18.75)
1121840361 - Oil Cooler Seal ($16.88)
DAC32550023 - Bearing (No Part Found - should be no more than $70)
Don't make the mistake to order the parts at a counter's stealership. To order at better prices go here:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=213951
Hope this helps.
01-25-2007, 07:00 PM
#28
I keep records of everything I do to the car... Here is a breakdown of the parts that were replaced when I took care of the SC noise. I search for the current prices... this should give you a pretty good idea of how much to spend in parts.
1202000470 - Roller ($39.75)
1122020119 - Roller ($51.75)
1122001070 - Tensioner ($186.00)
1129970092 - Belt ($43.50)
1121840261 - Oil Cooler Seal ($18.75)
1121840361 - Oil Cooler Seal ($16.88)
DAC32550023 - Bearing (No Part Found - should be no more than $70)
Don't make the mistake to order the parts at a counter's stealership. To order at better prices go here:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=213951
Hope this helps.
1202000470 - Roller ($39.75)
1122020119 - Roller ($51.75)
1122001070 - Tensioner ($186.00)
1129970092 - Belt ($43.50)
1121840261 - Oil Cooler Seal ($18.75)
1121840361 - Oil Cooler Seal ($16.88)
DAC32550023 - Bearing (No Part Found - should be no more than $70)
Don't make the mistake to order the parts at a counter's stealership. To order at better prices go here:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=213951
Hope this helps.
01-26-2007, 03:32 PM
#29
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I keep records of everything I do to the car... Here is a breakdown of the parts that were replaced when I took care of the SC noise. I search for the current prices... this should give you a pretty good idea of how much to spend in parts.
1202000470 - Roller ($39.75)
1122020119 - Roller ($51.75)
1122001070 - Tensioner ($186.00)
1129970092 - Belt ($43.50)
1121840261 - Oil Cooler Seal ($18.75)
1121840361 - Oil Cooler Seal ($16.88)
DAC32550023 - Bearing (No Part Found - should be no more than $70)
Don't make the mistake to order the parts at a counter's stealership. To order at better prices go here:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=213951
Hope this helps.
1202000470 - Roller ($39.75)
1122020119 - Roller ($51.75)
1122001070 - Tensioner ($186.00)
1129970092 - Belt ($43.50)
1121840261 - Oil Cooler Seal ($18.75)
1121840361 - Oil Cooler Seal ($16.88)
DAC32550023 - Bearing (No Part Found - should be no more than $70)
Don't make the mistake to order the parts at a counter's stealership. To order at better prices go here:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=213951
Hope this helps.
you are a life saver man!
any chance you took pics during the operation of the S/C?
any special tools needed or tips?
01-26-2007, 06:36 PM
#30
MBWorld Fanatic!
I don't have the ability to take a task like this. I'm very familiar with the car now but 2 years ago I was clueless. I used a local shop and they were kind enough to take the challenge and not just rip me off with a new or reman SC.
Good luck and please do a write up for future reference.
01-26-2007, 11:21 PM
#31
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E36M3 race car/Ferrari F355 GTS/1973 Mini 1275GT/Fiat Abarth/ML63/SLK55
any theories
on what causes (premature) s/c bearing failure??
when i removed the cover there was dirt on inner lip of the bearing area...might that be the culprit?....grit getting in and causing damage?
when i removed the cover there was dirt on inner lip of the bearing area...might that be the culprit?....grit getting in and causing damage?
01-30-2007, 07:25 PM
#32
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guys,
found the bearing in Houston for $18 bucks plus shipping.
http://www.houstonbearing.com/Defaul...8cT1mtQCGkAfLi
at this price, I'm going to have them here on Thursday and try to have my local shop install them on friday.
I just check with my parts department and they quoted my $1200 for a new clutch unit.
The part number the gave was the following:
83 190 000 0008
so let's do the math...
$1200 plus labor at the dealer for busted bearings
or
$18 + $15 shipping for new bearings
and I'll take to my local shop mechanic to help me install. Probably $150 for labor.
found the bearing in Houston for $18 bucks plus shipping.
http://www.houstonbearing.com/Defaul...8cT1mtQCGkAfLi
at this price, I'm going to have them here on Thursday and try to have my local shop install them on friday.
I just check with my parts department and they quoted my $1200 for a new clutch unit.
The part number the gave was the following:
83 190 000 0008
so let's do the math...
$1200 plus labor at the dealer for busted bearings
or
$18 + $15 shipping for new bearings
and I'll take to my local shop mechanic to help me install. Probably $150 for labor.
02-01-2007, 05:01 PM
#33
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Hey Chad - responding to your PM...
My SC issue was taken care of after replacing the flange bearing at the front of the SC.
I used a local shop that works on german cars and he charged me $100 for the bearing + labor. My invoice has two PNs: DAC32550023 and 32BG05S1 (automobile bearing). Just google those PNs and you'll find the dims and specs. I searched and this was never tried before... I made a deal with the shop b/c they didn't want to put the S/C back together if they couldn't find an exact replacement. It was either: Find a Bearing that worked or New/Reman SC. I did this in October 05 and no problems so far.
Also, they replaced the 2 rollers, the tensioner, the belt and some gaskets along with the bearing.
My noise was more like a knocking noise. I took a hose and listened to the engine all around... the sound was coming from the front. I'll email you tomorrow so you can send me the sound clip and give you more input.
My SC issue was taken care of after replacing the flange bearing at the front of the SC.
I used a local shop that works on german cars and he charged me $100 for the bearing + labor. My invoice has two PNs: DAC32550023 and 32BG05S1 (automobile bearing). Just google those PNs and you'll find the dims and specs. I searched and this was never tried before... I made a deal with the shop b/c they didn't want to put the S/C back together if they couldn't find an exact replacement. It was either: Find a Bearing that worked or New/Reman SC. I did this in October 05 and no problems so far.
Also, they replaced the 2 rollers, the tensioner, the belt and some gaskets along with the bearing.
My noise was more like a knocking noise. I took a hose and listened to the engine all around... the sound was coming from the front. I'll email you tomorrow so you can send me the sound clip and give you more input.
http://www.kml-bearing.com/public/pu...howRelitem=Yes
and
http://www.houstonbearing.com/Default.aspx?txtSearchText0=DAC32550023&rdioMethod 0=LIKE&hddnMethodLIKE=Contains&hddnTypeCount=1%2c1 &hddnTypeName0=item_code%7cdesc1234%7ckeywords&hdd nLabelitem_code|desc1234|keywords=Keyword&hddnLabe litem_code=Item&hddnLabeldesc1234=Description&page =item%20search%20results
I only ordered 1 for now..
I'm also looking for a s/c clutch diagram to have an idea what to tell my mechanic.
Last edited by TopGun32; 02-01-2007 at 05:13 PM.
02-06-2007, 12:58 PM
#34
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my kompressor is back to normal...
the bearings on the clutch were failing.
Total cost of the repairs $110. (80 labor + 30 parts and shipping)
It cost me $690 to diagnose a check engine light and bad compressor clutch bearing at the Dealer, which I now regret 100%.
My car had a number of problems that compounded each other.
1) I clean my Green filters and broke 3 bolts with my power drill. check engine came on. I knew the check engine light was on due to the air box but my bearings went out.
2) compressor clutch bearigs were making noises for quite some time, but now the compressor would shut off after within 1 hour of use. Sometimes after a few minutes. The dealer told me that the clutch was stuck at idle and the compressor was on, due to faulty bearing.
I think I just jumped the gun, thinking it was a major issue. I know these engines are bullet proof and I know the tranny is robust. The only issues with these cars are cooling, electrical and bearings and pullies. Which are all easy to fix.
Anybody is So Cal that would like to have thier compressor clutch bearings replaced for under $100, let me know and I'll take you to my little "ghetto" shop in Ontario. They have worked on my E55 and C32 with no problems. The owner used to work for a MB shop before.
Next up on my repair list:
fog lens
bent wheel
and maybe putting back my Evosport pullies.
the bearings on the clutch were failing.
Total cost of the repairs $110. (80 labor + 30 parts and shipping)
It cost me $690 to diagnose a check engine light and bad compressor clutch bearing at the Dealer, which I now regret 100%.
My car had a number of problems that compounded each other.
1) I clean my Green filters and broke 3 bolts with my power drill. check engine came on. I knew the check engine light was on due to the air box but my bearings went out.
2) compressor clutch bearigs were making noises for quite some time, but now the compressor would shut off after within 1 hour of use. Sometimes after a few minutes. The dealer told me that the clutch was stuck at idle and the compressor was on, due to faulty bearing.
I think I just jumped the gun, thinking it was a major issue. I know these engines are bullet proof and I know the tranny is robust. The only issues with these cars are cooling, electrical and bearings and pullies. Which are all easy to fix.
Anybody is So Cal that would like to have thier compressor clutch bearings replaced for under $100, let me know and I'll take you to my little "ghetto" shop in Ontario. They have worked on my E55 and C32 with no problems. The owner used to work for a MB shop before.
Next up on my repair list:
fog lens
bent wheel
and maybe putting back my Evosport pullies.
02-06-2007, 03:05 PM
#35
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Silver 2002 C32, Silver 2006 CLK 350
so was it easy to replace the bering? glad you got it fix for lot less money. I have to print those part# just in case
02-06-2007, 06:03 PM
#39
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C32 AMG
my kompressor is back to normal...
the bearings on the clutch were failing.
Total cost of the repairs $110. (80 labor + 30 parts and shipping)
It cost me $690 to diagnose a check engine light and bad compressor clutch bearing at the Dealer, which I now regret 100%.
My car had a number of problems that compounded each other.
1) I clean my Green filters and broke 3 bolts with my power drill. check engine came on. I knew the check engine light was on due to the air box but my bearings went out.
2) compressor clutch bearigs were making noises for quite some time, but now the compressor would shut off after within 1 hour of use. Sometimes after a few minutes. The dealer told me that the clutch was stuck at idle and the compressor was on, due to faulty bearing.
I think I just jumped the gun, thinking it was a major issue. I know these engines are bullet proof and I know the tranny is robust. The only issues with these cars are cooling, electrical and bearings and pullies. Which are all easy to fix.
Anybody is So Cal that would like to have thier compressor clutch bearings replaced for under $100, let me know and I'll take you to my little "ghetto" shop in Ontario. They have worked on my E55 and C32 with no problems. The owner used to work for a MB shop before.
Next up on my repair list:
fog lens
bent wheel
and maybe putting back my Evosport pullies.
the bearings on the clutch were failing.
Total cost of the repairs $110. (80 labor + 30 parts and shipping)
It cost me $690 to diagnose a check engine light and bad compressor clutch bearing at the Dealer, which I now regret 100%.
My car had a number of problems that compounded each other.
1) I clean my Green filters and broke 3 bolts with my power drill. check engine came on. I knew the check engine light was on due to the air box but my bearings went out.
2) compressor clutch bearigs were making noises for quite some time, but now the compressor would shut off after within 1 hour of use. Sometimes after a few minutes. The dealer told me that the clutch was stuck at idle and the compressor was on, due to faulty bearing.
I think I just jumped the gun, thinking it was a major issue. I know these engines are bullet proof and I know the tranny is robust. The only issues with these cars are cooling, electrical and bearings and pullies. Which are all easy to fix.
Anybody is So Cal that would like to have thier compressor clutch bearings replaced for under $100, let me know and I'll take you to my little "ghetto" shop in Ontario. They have worked on my E55 and C32 with no problems. The owner used to work for a MB shop before.
Next up on my repair list:
fog lens
bent wheel
and maybe putting back my Evosport pullies.
This is the kind of wisdom and value that these forums are all about! Well done and thanks for posting your results. Now let's keep all this wisdom in mind when someone posts something about our C32s being money pits or ticking bombs. Compared to the multitude of complex problems I used to see on AudiWorld (afflicting the complex turbo plumbing and software), our issues are relatively easy to diagnose and solve.
02-06-2007, 06:20 PM
#40
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Silver 2002 C32, Silver 2006 CLK 350
This is the kind of wisdom and value that these forums are all about! Well done and thanks for posting your results. Now let's keep all this wisdom in mind when someone posts something about our C32s being money pits or ticking bombs. Compared to the multitude of complex problems I used to see on AudiWorld (afflicting the complex turbo plumbing and software), our issues are relatively easy to diagnose and solve.
02-06-2007, 06:40 PM
#41
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i'm going to make a quick power point to show the steps to replacing the bearings. It won't be too detailed, but it will give you an idea what you are looking for.
my shop charged me 80 dollars, since I'm a repeat customer. So they might charge you a bit more. (maybe 2 hours of labor)
You can take it to any local mechanic, they should be able to do it.
In fact it is a do it yourself job.. but you will need to apply pressure to the bearings to go into the clutch and if are good in repairing cars.
1st step.. buy the bearings.
2nd step.. find a mechanic you trust
it should take no more than 2 hours to do if the engine is cool.
very easy job... and beats paying $1200 for a new clutch.
if you would like some pics of the jobs.. e-mail me at
joecordero76@yahoo.com and I should a PPT in a few days.
my shop charged me 80 dollars, since I'm a repeat customer. So they might charge you a bit more. (maybe 2 hours of labor)
You can take it to any local mechanic, they should be able to do it.
In fact it is a do it yourself job.. but you will need to apply pressure to the bearings to go into the clutch and if are good in repairing cars.
1st step.. buy the bearings.
2nd step.. find a mechanic you trust
it should take no more than 2 hours to do if the engine is cool.
very easy job... and beats paying $1200 for a new clutch.
if you would like some pics of the jobs.. e-mail me at
joecordero76@yahoo.com and I should a PPT in a few days.
02-07-2007, 01:43 AM
#42
i'm going to make a quick power point to show the steps to replacing the bearings. It won't be too detailed, but it will give you an idea what you are looking for.
my shop charged me 80 dollars, since I'm a repeat customer. So they might charge you a bit more. (maybe 2 hours of labor)
You can take it to any local mechanic, they should be able to do it.
In fact it is a do it yourself job.. but you will need to apply pressure to the bearings to go into the clutch and if are good in repairing cars.
1st step.. buy the bearings.
2nd step.. find a mechanic you trust
it should take no more than 2 hours to do if the engine is cool.
very easy job... and beats paying $1200 for a new clutch.
if you would like some pics of the jobs.. e-mail me at
joecordero76@yahoo.com and I should a PPT in a few days.
my shop charged me 80 dollars, since I'm a repeat customer. So they might charge you a bit more. (maybe 2 hours of labor)
You can take it to any local mechanic, they should be able to do it.
In fact it is a do it yourself job.. but you will need to apply pressure to the bearings to go into the clutch and if are good in repairing cars.
1st step.. buy the bearings.
2nd step.. find a mechanic you trust
it should take no more than 2 hours to do if the engine is cool.
very easy job... and beats paying $1200 for a new clutch.
if you would like some pics of the jobs.. e-mail me at
joecordero76@yahoo.com and I should a PPT in a few days.
02-07-2007, 03:46 PM
#43
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those of you who requested pics.. i have replied with the pics I took.
definately not an instruction manual.. but enough to give you an idea what do do.
definately not an instruction manual.. but enough to give you an idea what do do.
02-07-2007, 08:22 PM
#44
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okay.. here is the status.
Noise is gone..
I ran the car on Monday night, and Tuesday. No problem.
Today, my wife took the car to work and after being on the road in traffic, the check engine light came on and she lost the S/C again. No power.
At this point, it must something to do with my airbox (I"m missing 2 bolts) or my IC pump shutting down the S/C. Last, is my battery. I have a low voltage battery and this can be causing for the kompressor to shut down. I read this on the W203 c32 documentation provided my to me. If the voltage drops below 9v, the kompressor will shut down.
The reason I know I need a new battery, is that I get all these light bulb messanges (turn signal, rear parking..ect) clear indicatio of a low battery.
I replaced the I/C pump last year, but who knows if it needs another replacement.
I'm going to buy some OEM filters and seal my airboxes very tight. I will probably get another battery this week as well. If that does not fix it, then a new IC pump.
Any other ideas what can be causing this?
Noise is gone..
I ran the car on Monday night, and Tuesday. No problem.
Today, my wife took the car to work and after being on the road in traffic, the check engine light came on and she lost the S/C again. No power.
At this point, it must something to do with my airbox (I"m missing 2 bolts) or my IC pump shutting down the S/C. Last, is my battery. I have a low voltage battery and this can be causing for the kompressor to shut down. I read this on the W203 c32 documentation provided my to me. If the voltage drops below 9v, the kompressor will shut down.
The reason I know I need a new battery, is that I get all these light bulb messanges (turn signal, rear parking..ect) clear indicatio of a low battery.
I replaced the I/C pump last year, but who knows if it needs another replacement.
I'm going to buy some OEM filters and seal my airboxes very tight. I will probably get another battery this week as well. If that does not fix it, then a new IC pump.
Any other ideas what can be causing this?
02-07-2007, 09:53 PM
#47
Member
Bearing distributor
Sorry to butt in guys...just find all conversations interesting...THought I would offer my .02 and contacts. CBR BEaring in So Cal is awesome they are a distributor and very knowledgable about cars, bikes, etc. They have helped me out on several bike conversions. Here is there contact info:
http://www.cbrbearing.com/
Most times if I just tell the the products I am adapting they have details on file, but obviously the more data the easier it is for them to assist.
Good luck!
Cheers,
Mick
http://www.cbrbearing.com/
Most times if I just tell the the products I am adapting they have details on file, but obviously the more data the easier it is for them to assist.
Good luck!
Cheers,
Mick
02-07-2007, 09:54 PM
#48
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Audi C7.5 S6
Yeah, measure the battery, without engine running, around 12.6V, no load. if it is below 12V, it definitely has a problem.
Then start car, run for two minutes and measure the battery voltage, with engine at around 3k RPM. The voltage should be around 14V. The alternator regulator should keep the voltage around 14V, as the RPM changes, 15V is too high, 13V is too low.
Then start car, run for two minutes and measure the battery voltage, with engine at around 3k RPM. The voltage should be around 14V. The alternator regulator should keep the voltage around 14V, as the RPM changes, 15V is too high, 13V is too low.
02-08-2007, 02:25 PM
#49
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update:
installed a new battery last night.
the check engine is gone and the car had power again.
My wife took the car to work, since I'm off this this week (starting a new job on Monday) and no problems during traffic.
I'm going to wait for her afternoon commute to see if the powerloss returns.
I could of measured the battery, but I took the car to Pep Boys. Bosch battery and install for $100.
When I do sell the car, a new battery is always a plus.
installed a new battery last night.
the check engine is gone and the car had power again.
My wife took the car to work, since I'm off this this week (starting a new job on Monday) and no problems during traffic.
I'm going to wait for her afternoon commute to see if the powerloss returns.
I could of measured the battery, but I took the car to Pep Boys. Bosch battery and install for $100.
When I do sell the car, a new battery is always a plus.
02-08-2007, 10:01 PM
#50
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update for today:
new battery and the car is running without lossing the S/C.
My wife was able to drive the car to and from work without any problems during heavy traffic.
I do have an SRS "Please visit Workshop" light.
I did take the car to Pepboys to install the battery (only $6 to install). I have seen the ESP light come on after a battery disconnect, but not SRS.
could it be the fuse?
anybody had this fault code as well? I'll do a quick search.
So far the bearings are working out perfectly and with the new battery everything seems back to normal.
new battery and the car is running without lossing the S/C.
My wife was able to drive the car to and from work without any problems during heavy traffic.
I do have an SRS "Please visit Workshop" light.
I did take the car to Pepboys to install the battery (only $6 to install). I have seen the ESP light come on after a battery disconnect, but not SRS.
could it be the fuse?
anybody had this fault code as well? I'll do a quick search.
So far the bearings are working out perfectly and with the new battery everything seems back to normal.
