Super Charger grinding noise
02-08-2007, 10:08 PM
#51
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C32 AMG - in Pewter
I remember there are a few steps/things one has to do after battery disconnect to reset/resynch control units. It is a sticky in the W203 forum I believe...
02-08-2007, 10:53 PM
#52
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thanks,
I have used your lead and I was not able to find a fix for the SRS yet.
I do have other lighting codes as well, but all my turn signals and parking lights work.
02-20-2007, 10:37 PM
#53
just wanted to say thanks to you guys for helping to find a bearing and getting the problem located...i was ready to rebuild the entire supercharger, so $20 total to fix the problem is a welcome relief in light of the usual expensive fix that happens with these cars...
took me all of an hour to swap out the bearing in my driveway...i will be glad to help anyone change theirs as well if you are local...
took me all of an hour to swap out the bearing in my driveway...i will be glad to help anyone change theirs as well if you are local...
02-20-2007, 11:42 PM
#54
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Great! So.. that bearing (part #: DAC32550023) from that store in Houston did the job? I just got that part # in and I'm going to replace the bearing in a spare sc that I have.
02-21-2007, 12:51 AM
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i have no noises right now, but i'm loosing the kompressor during driving.
I believe the kompressor clutch is stuck open during ignition and quickly heats up the air intake temps and shuts downt the kompressor.
I can feel more than usual power under 3k rpms, which tell me that I have boost below the actual 2.9k starting point.
after a 1 hour drive home.. I loose the kompressor and I have to turn off the car and restart.
at this point I have to diagnose the clutch and see what is causing this.
The bearing problem was 1 problem for me, but I still have 1 more to fix.
I installed a new battery and the problem was gone for a few days (very strange?)
I know the IC pump is working, since i hear it after I turn off the car and I replaced last year.
I believe the kompressor clutch is stuck open during ignition and quickly heats up the air intake temps and shuts downt the kompressor.
I can feel more than usual power under 3k rpms, which tell me that I have boost below the actual 2.9k starting point.
after a 1 hour drive home.. I loose the kompressor and I have to turn off the car and restart.
at this point I have to diagnose the clutch and see what is causing this.
The bearing problem was 1 problem for me, but I still have 1 more to fix.
I installed a new battery and the problem was gone for a few days (very strange?)
I know the IC pump is working, since i hear it after I turn off the car and I replaced last year.
02-21-2007, 08:57 AM
#56
02-21-2007, 08:58 AM
#57
i have no noises right now, but i'm loosing the kompressor during driving.
I believe the kompressor clutch is stuck open during ignition and quickly heats up the air intake temps and shuts downt the kompressor.
I can feel more than usual power under 3k rpms, which tell me that I have boost below the actual 2.9k starting point.
after a 1 hour drive home.. I loose the kompressor and I have to turn off the car and restart.
at this point I have to diagnose the clutch and see what is causing this.
The bearing problem was 1 problem for me, but I still have 1 more to fix.
I installed a new battery and the problem was gone for a few days (very strange?)
I know the IC pump is working, since i hear it after I turn off the car and I replaced last year.
I believe the kompressor clutch is stuck open during ignition and quickly heats up the air intake temps and shuts downt the kompressor.
I can feel more than usual power under 3k rpms, which tell me that I have boost below the actual 2.9k starting point.
after a 1 hour drive home.. I loose the kompressor and I have to turn off the car and restart.
at this point I have to diagnose the clutch and see what is causing this.
The bearing problem was 1 problem for me, but I still have 1 more to fix.
I installed a new battery and the problem was gone for a few days (very strange?)
I know the IC pump is working, since i hear it after I turn off the car and I replaced last year.
02-21-2007, 11:28 AM
#58
MBWorld Fanatic!
Hey TopGun32, your symptoms are similar to mine.
If you feel the SC is not engaging after a short period of time, then it's basically high IAT readings. When the computer senses a high IAT, it automatically shuts down the S/C for safety purposes.
As you know, MB had a service campaign (2006-030011) back in May/June to replace a relay related to secondary air pump… this has nothing to do with the I/C pump or the S/C, however, somewhere along the process, it makes the I/C pump to fail. After this campaign, the programming updates change the ON/OFF timer to shut down the I/C pump.
You mentioned changing the battery, you most likely jump-started the car a few times and that cause relay/fuse failures (something to do with over-charging the capacity of them). It took me 2 months to figure out that it was only a burnt relay in the system.
My recommendation: take it to the dealership and ask them to check all the relays.
If you feel the SC is not engaging after a short period of time, then it's basically high IAT readings. When the computer senses a high IAT, it automatically shuts down the S/C for safety purposes.
As you know, MB had a service campaign (2006-030011) back in May/June to replace a relay related to secondary air pump… this has nothing to do with the I/C pump or the S/C, however, somewhere along the process, it makes the I/C pump to fail. After this campaign, the programming updates change the ON/OFF timer to shut down the I/C pump.
You mentioned changing the battery, you most likely jump-started the car a few times and that cause relay/fuse failures (something to do with over-charging the capacity of them). It took me 2 months to figure out that it was only a burnt relay in the system.
My recommendation: take it to the dealership and ask them to check all the relays.
02-21-2007, 08:04 PM
#59
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Hey TopGun32, your symptoms are similar to mine.
If you feel the SC is not engaging after a short period of time, then it's basically high IAT readings. When the computer senses a high IAT, it automatically shuts down the S/C for safety purposes.
As you know, MB had a service campaign (2006-030011) back in May/June to replace a relay related to secondary air pump… this has nothing to do with the I/C pump or the S/C, however, somewhere along the process, it makes the I/C pump to fail. After this campaign, the programming updates change the ON/OFF timer to shut down the I/C pump.
You mentioned changing the battery, you most likely jump-started the car a few times and that cause relay/fuse failures (something to do with over-charging the capacity of them). It took me 2 months to figure out that it was only a burnt relay in the system.
My recommendation: take it to the dealership and ask them to check all the relays.
If you feel the SC is not engaging after a short period of time, then it's basically high IAT readings. When the computer senses a high IAT, it automatically shuts down the S/C for safety purposes.
As you know, MB had a service campaign (2006-030011) back in May/June to replace a relay related to secondary air pump… this has nothing to do with the I/C pump or the S/C, however, somewhere along the process, it makes the I/C pump to fail. After this campaign, the programming updates change the ON/OFF timer to shut down the I/C pump.
You mentioned changing the battery, you most likely jump-started the car a few times and that cause relay/fuse failures (something to do with over-charging the capacity of them). It took me 2 months to figure out that it was only a burnt relay in the system.
My recommendation: take it to the dealership and ask them to check all the relays.
I had the 2nd air pump recall perfomed.. but the relay issue sounds like right on.
I now have an SRS constant error code with a bunch of lighting codes as well.
I'm scared to drop another $690 for diagnosis again...
by any chance.. do you know what i can visual check my self for the relays?
02-21-2007, 09:01 PM
#60
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Well, the way I attacked this with the dealer was that 'before' the service campaign my car was running strong... and that 'after' this "updated free service" my car was not the same. There is a looong thread regarding this topic, a few of us 02 owners had the same problem. Actually, I replaced my IC pump after this famous campaign and the relay die 2-3 times. I can't really tell you what to check physically b/c I didn't do it myself, I just kept my position and made my point clear...
All they have to do is plug in the STAR System and check for the code. It has to be that simple b/c they picked my car up in the morning and dropped it off by noon.
Good luck.
All they have to do is plug in the STAR System and check for the code. It has to be that simple b/c they picked my car up in the morning and dropped it off by noon.
Good luck.
08-07-2009, 01:39 PM
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02' C32 AMG
I've had the same issue so I just took it to my mechanic and they are replacing the bearing. He said they would keep a couple in stock b/c he's sure other people are having the same problem. If you're in the DC area look these guys up:
German Auto Group
http://www.germanautogroupva.com/
German Auto Group
http://www.germanautogroupva.com/
01-31-2015, 06:55 PM
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w203 C32 AMG
Possible SC bearing noise
Hi Guys,
I have a what sounds like a grinding noise coming from the engine when the stops (thats when its quiet enought to hear it i guess). It does not make the noise when at idle or at any other rpm when stationary so it makes it hard to pin point. The easiest time to hear it is when im in an under ground car park when there is no throttle input and it lasts for about 5 seconds thrn stops. If i Tap the gas pedal it starts again for about 5 seconds then stops. If i just release the brake and roll foward no noise also no noise if i gently accel away but again when no gas pedal the noise comes back.
I have a what sounds like a grinding noise coming from the engine when the stops (thats when its quiet enought to hear it i guess). It does not make the noise when at idle or at any other rpm when stationary so it makes it hard to pin point. The easiest time to hear it is when im in an under ground car park when there is no throttle input and it lasts for about 5 seconds thrn stops. If i Tap the gas pedal it starts again for about 5 seconds then stops. If i just release the brake and roll foward no noise also no noise if i gently accel away but again when no gas pedal the noise comes back.
