Possible IC Pump failure
#1
Possible IC Pump failure
Just got the used 2004 C32 with 15k miles 2 weeks ago. Have been noticing power fluctuations. Sometimes it screams. Usually average accelleration. Today while pulling away from a stop sign, no power. Felt like a C230. Car was warm as I had been driving for 30 minutes in 75 degree temps. About a minute or two later, it had much more power.
Four years ago, I test drove a 2002 C32. It seemed to have much more power and a very noticible supercharger whine. Mine has no whine whatsoever.
I do hear the pump running in the front fender when I turn off the car.
Would a IC pump *impending* failure do this? Can it go in and out? Any other ideas?
Four years ago, I test drove a 2002 C32. It seemed to have much more power and a very noticible supercharger whine. Mine has no whine whatsoever.
I do hear the pump running in the front fender when I turn off the car.
Would a IC pump *impending* failure do this? Can it go in and out? Any other ideas?
#2
Just got the used 2004 C32 with 15k miles 2 weeks ago. Have been noticing power fluctuations. Sometimes it screams. Usually average accelleration. Today while pulling away from a stop sign, no power. Felt like a C230. Car was warm as I had been driving for 30 minutes in 75 degree temps. About a minute or two later, it had much more power.
Four years ago, I test drove a 2002 C32. It seemed to have much more power and a very noticible supercharger whine. Mine has no whine whatsoever.
I do hear the pump running in the front fender when I turn off the car.
Would a IC pump *impending* failure do this? Can it go in and out? Any other ideas?
Four years ago, I test drove a 2002 C32. It seemed to have much more power and a very noticible supercharger whine. Mine has no whine whatsoever.
I do hear the pump running in the front fender when I turn off the car.
Would a IC pump *impending* failure do this? Can it go in and out? Any other ideas?
if you do a search it should pull something up but it does sound like an ic pump issue.
#3
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C32 AMG - in Pewter
I/C pump - guaranteed. In one of my previous post I put together a bief explanation as to why the S/C goes on and off when the pump is out. All that from my own experience.
#4
Is there a printout that I can take to the dealer to show them what's happening? I have an appointment on monday to take it in. I have read to tell them to let it warm up, drive it hard, then measure the intake temp. Also read to have them run voltage thru the pump to see if it is working.
Is there a recall or TSB that I can reference?
Is there a recall or TSB that I can reference?
#5
They replaced the IC pump. Runs great now. Still no supercharger whine.
They couldn't/wouldn't address either the difference in brightness of the dash to the console lights or turn off the malfunction indicator since I don't have teleaid.
Oh well. At least it runs. Now onto the aftermarket Nav system....
They couldn't/wouldn't address either the difference in brightness of the dash to the console lights or turn off the malfunction indicator since I don't have teleaid.
Oh well. At least it runs. Now onto the aftermarket Nav system....
#6
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2002 C32, 2011 VW GTI
Welcome! I'm a newbie too. I just bought an '02 with 30k on it and I think mine's bad also. When researching the issue, I came up with the following advice:
Start the car, let it run for a minute or so, then turn it off and quickly go up to the front pass side. If you hear an electric motor, it MIGHT be OK, but if you don't hear an electric motor running for 10-30 second, then the Intercooler pump is bad. It might be shorted/bad anyways, but this is a good thing to look for.
Ok, mine doesn't run for this 10-30 second period. It runs for maybe 3-5 seconds and shuts off. So, my dumb questions:
1. Do you think mine's bad? My car is fast and I do hear the blower whine but then again, I'm used to a C230. A freakin' Camry would probably feel fast to me after that. You guys probably could feel power going away. As I'm new to the car, I've no reference point.
2. Where is the pump located? Is it the black plastic pump looking thing just underneath the passenger side cold air intake tube? That's where the momentary whirring noise comes from when you shut off the car. If so, the rubber lines running to and from it are cool to the touch after driving the car for an hour. Does that mean anything? If it's properly pumping coolant into and out of the intercooler, those should be at least warm, no?
3. The car is a CPO car so I'm assuming this is a warranty fix -- which was why I didn't make a big deal when I bought it. What should be replaced -- the whole pump, or the switch?
Thanks in advance guys.
Start the car, let it run for a minute or so, then turn it off and quickly go up to the front pass side. If you hear an electric motor, it MIGHT be OK, but if you don't hear an electric motor running for 10-30 second, then the Intercooler pump is bad. It might be shorted/bad anyways, but this is a good thing to look for.
Ok, mine doesn't run for this 10-30 second period. It runs for maybe 3-5 seconds and shuts off. So, my dumb questions:
1. Do you think mine's bad? My car is fast and I do hear the blower whine but then again, I'm used to a C230. A freakin' Camry would probably feel fast to me after that. You guys probably could feel power going away. As I'm new to the car, I've no reference point.
2. Where is the pump located? Is it the black plastic pump looking thing just underneath the passenger side cold air intake tube? That's where the momentary whirring noise comes from when you shut off the car. If so, the rubber lines running to and from it are cool to the touch after driving the car for an hour. Does that mean anything? If it's properly pumping coolant into and out of the intercooler, those should be at least warm, no?
3. The car is a CPO car so I'm assuming this is a warranty fix -- which was why I didn't make a big deal when I bought it. What should be replaced -- the whole pump, or the switch?
Thanks in advance guys.
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2002 C32, 2011 VW GTI
As an update, dealer checked the IC pump and it's fine. Since the car is extremely powerful, I believe it. The car only has 31k on the odometer though. I'll definitely keep an eye on the pump.
The quote which says that if the pump doesn't run 10-30 seconds after the car is shut down, the pump is bad is probably wrong. On my car, if you start it and shut it off after a minute, the pump will run for a few seconds. If the car has been driving and you shut it off, the pump will stay on 10 seconds or so. When it's cold, and you shut it off after a minute, it won't run at all. So I think how long it stays on varies depending on engine temperature, running time, etc.
The quote which says that if the pump doesn't run 10-30 seconds after the car is shut down, the pump is bad is probably wrong. On my car, if you start it and shut it off after a minute, the pump will run for a few seconds. If the car has been driving and you shut it off, the pump will stay on 10 seconds or so. When it's cold, and you shut it off after a minute, it won't run at all. So I think how long it stays on varies depending on engine temperature, running time, etc.
#9
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My 02 was a CPO car also. The I/C pump was replaced, under warranty, at about 50,000 miles. The pump is located behind the right front wheel-well liner, in front of the wheel. You can't see it unless you remove the liner. I've never been able to hear the pump running when I shut the car off so I wouldn't dwell on it. You will know when your pump dies because the car will feel slower that a tractor mower. It will act up when the ambient temps or engine temps are high. The pump itself does not throw a code for the techs. The engine will tell the tech that the incoming air is too hot. This will shut the blower off to save the engine. Also, the pump does not seem to just drop dead. It can be a developing problem that comes and goes.
Just pay attention to the feel on the hot days. Good luck with the ride.
Just pay attention to the feel on the hot days. Good luck with the ride.
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#10
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2002 C32, 2011 VW GTI
My 02 was a CPO car also. The I/C pump was replaced, under warranty, at about 50,000 miles. The pump is located behind the right front wheel-well liner, in front of the wheel. You can't see it unless you remove the liner. I've never been able to hear the pump running when I shut the car off so I wouldn't dwell on it. You will know when your pump dies because the car will feel slower that a tractor mower. It will act up when the ambient temps or engine temps are high. The pump itself does not throw a code for the techs. The engine will tell the tech that the incoming air is too hot. This will shut the blower off to save the engine. Also, the pump does not seem to just drop dead. It can be a developing problem that comes and goes.
Just pay attention to the feel on the hot days. Good luck with the ride.![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Just pay attention to the feel on the hot days. Good luck with the ride.
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#11
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2002 C32 AMG, 1997 C5 Corvette (sold)
I will be installing the Ford Lightning IC Pump soon. My question is, are there any precautions I need to take in order to prevent any air getting into the system when I refill the fluids (coolant)? I've heard a couple stories about malfunction after installation because of air in the system. Thanks in advance.
#12
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I will be installing the Ford Lightning IC Pump soon. My question is, are there any precautions I need to take in order to prevent any air getting into the system when I refill the fluids (coolant)? I've heard a couple stories about malfunction after installation because of air in the system. Thanks in advance.
edit: found it-- https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c55-amg-w203/146457-1fastc32-s-cheep-intercooler-pump-replacement.html
Last edited by ScottW911; 04-10-2007 at 03:50 PM.
#13
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2002 C32 AMG, 1997 C5 Corvette (sold)
There is a huge thread on this very subject within this forum. So a search on "1fastc32's cheap pump fix" or something like that. It has a complete DIY guide to the lightning pump replacement.
edit: found it-- https://mbworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=146457
edit: found it-- https://mbworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=146457
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#14
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I'm new to this website, but not to Mercedes. However, this is my first Kompressor & this problem was baffling me until I ran accross these threads. It has been a hot summer thus far, but this problem originated when it was a bit cooler. Therefore, I believe it's the IC pump. I have a question though.
I found this website (http://apeusa.com/html/jabsco.html), which sells a variety of the necessary pumps, but I'm currently unsure about the hose connection size that my 99 c230 K would require. Any ideas?
Also, I will mostly choose the Johnson cm30, unless someone can convince me otherwise. I've read that the cm30 still pumps nearly 50% more per minute than stock.
I found this website (http://apeusa.com/html/jabsco.html), which sells a variety of the necessary pumps, but I'm currently unsure about the hose connection size that my 99 c230 K would require. Any ideas?
Also, I will mostly choose the Johnson cm30, unless someone can convince me otherwise. I've read that the cm30 still pumps nearly 50% more per minute than stock.