SteveL

I noticed I have some bearing noise at idle when I first started the car this morning. But the time I got to work, it had stopped. I only have 18K miles on the car. For the money, it is likely a good preventitive thing for me to do but I wonder it some bearing noise is normal when the car has sat for a few days.

About the C ring clip, I have the Service Manual CD and I should be able to at least get the part number if MB sells the SC in parts.

Code3 Performance

I believe you can buy the clutch as one piece only. That is why we had to source the bearing from somewhere else. Although it just looks like a standard snap ring, nothing special. Just need to find the right size and thickness.

jibrilg

Hi,

I had the EXACT same issue. Thanks to you i got the part & fixed by a shop. total cost $34(part)+$154(labor).

Regards

gkstar

It is a great forum!

The other day I heard squeaking from this same area and I thought it is my turn now. After removing the S/C clutch cover, I could listen better and localized the source to be the idler pulley not the clutch. Sound was same as on the video but was clearly coming from the idler pulley bearing.

I was surprised a bit as no one else complained about that. Has anybody changed the idler pulley bearing before?

FrankW

idler pulley, yes

check out Zeppelin's thread.

Zeppelin

How did you get the clutch cover off after removing the bolt on front? I was curious one day when I had my belt off so I took the bolt out but the front clutch cover would not come off. Do you need a puller?

FrankW

it slides out. look closely at the fitting on the right side of the picture. you'll need to loosen that so the clutch plate have room to come out.

btw, I gave up on the idler pulley. the old bearing is blew apart when it failed and I couldn't get the outer rim to come out from the seat at all. Plus I think the pulley itself might be damaged because there's wayy too much play for the bearing to click around in there. I think that might be the reason why it failed soo badly in the first place.

edtv82

ok i got my bearing from Houston the other day located a buddy of mine who's got a press that is small enough to push out the old bearing and pop the new one in... but the thing i dont know is should i just replace my whole belt? and i'm afraid i wont be able to put the new one on correctly and do you have to time this belt ? how easy is it to peal the belt off of the SC?

Code3 Performance

All you need to do is loosen the belt off of the upper idler and clutch. No need to take the whole thing off.

On a side note, my upper idler started making noise the other day. So I am going to get that taken care of as well.

Bif powell

This is awesome of course, but one question - from the video it seems like the new one although silent, doesn't spin as freely?...

gkstar

This is probably normal as a new bearing is well greased. Once the grease warms up from the rotation, it will likely move more freely.

Code3 Performance

The old bearing was wasted You could use it like a maraca You are correct that the old one spun very freely. But, the new one is smooth, quiet, and performs the same.

Harry Madan

how many clicks on ur car where u ended up doing this repair/refinish?

Code3 Performance

Many clicks

Truth is, my car has 112k, and runs smooth as can be. Its amazing how nice it runs with the amount of miles. It feels like a car with half the mileage. If you take care of them, they will reward you

Zeppelin

[QUOTE=FrankW;2229573]it slides out. look closely at the fitting on the right side of the picture. you'll need to loosen that so the clutch plate have room to come out.

btw, I gave up on the idler pulley. the old bearing is blew apart when it failed and I couldn't get the outer rim to come out from the seat at all. Plus I think the pulley itself might be damaged because there's wayy too much play for the bearing to click around in there. I think that might be the reason why it failed soo badly in the first place.[/QUOTE

Not sure I understand what fitting you are talking about. When I remove the nut on the front of the bearing the pulley/bearing asseembly will not pull off from the front of the SC. I removed the silver tube in the picture so I would have plenty of room to slide it off, but it does not slide off.

Sorry to hear about your bearing, just keep the bearings - they are the same as the tensioner pulley bearing (you may need one some day)

FrankW

all I did with the clutch plate was to remove the nut and that little metal plate washer and then the whole thing will easily slide out. try lubing it with wd40 or something. it may be just tight fit that's all.

there's a fitting just to the front of the s/c plate on the right of the picture. you'll have to loosen that so the plate doesn't touch that part when you try to slide it out.

yea...definitely keeping the bearings i'm sure they'll be useful again

FrankW

circled the part i was talking about for you

Code3 Performance

Mine came right off as well. I put some gloves on, and gave it a good pull, and it came right off.

C32rechard

hi guys

im from south africa...my Komp is doing the same thing...i stripped it and the local bearing shop quoted me ZAR 90-00 about usd15 for the bearing

it is a nsk bearing 32BD45

thanks for this thread..MB SA wanted to replace my Komp under maint plan with my contribution of ZAR 15000 ( about usd 2000)

saved myself usd 1900

thanks again

Code3 Performance

Thats awesome. Glad you got it fixed

RRxGrasshopper

I am purchasing the 6 ton press from Harbor tomorrow, hope its in stock, question. When you press the new bearing in does it get pressed from the back or front. Sorry if that sounds stupid, also how far does it get pressed in? did you measure tolorances or is it obvious? Also how tight does that bolt go back in? Did you use a tourque wrench? I want to be sure as I really have no clue what I am doing and I'm using this thread as my guide. I will take pics every step of the way and post them up as well.

RRxGrasshopper

Changed mine out over the weekend. Was just as simple as stated, the ring that couldn't be removed is a simple snap ring. I used a small needle nose pliers to remove the ring ands was able to reuse with the new bearing.
Thanks everybody car runs smooth and strong.

Code3 Performance

Awesome. Glad it worked out for you.

AMG_Pilot

I'm also from South Africa like C32rechard. At 100,000 k's (on extended warranty) I was advised by Cargo Edenvale (my service agents) that the supercharger was making a noise and should have it looked at during the next service. Was duly informed that supercharger would have to be replaced (cost R57,000 plus R4,000 for labour - $8000 and $565). My share would be 50%. After throwing my toys out, dealer contacted MB who refused to come to the party. "Let it blow" I said. At 130,000k's an tensioner bearing failed instead, taking with it the belt and the waterpump. While this was being fixed, asked "new" service agent to replace clutch bearing and e-mailed him the pics of your fix. I even supplied the bearing (NSK 32BD45 cost $15). He said he was not allowed by company policy to replace the bearing, but offered a new clutch at 1400$ instead. I told them to close everything up, I took the car to a shop that prepares race car engines, and they did the job for R500 ($70), which included cleaning up the clutch faces. Thanks guys - you saved me whack. S/C purring again, car going like bat out of hell and asking my lawyer to sue the original dealer for fraud.

TopGun32

glad to see it worked out for you!

I made a promise that my C32 will not see a dealer ever again.. ( I have no more warranty)

most of the problems I have been able to resolve on my own with a trusted mechanic.

our typical engine issues are very simple to fix.. the only exception is the electrical failures. I wish we had access to a STARDIAG system.