Renntech Stage 1
#1
Renntech Stage 1
For those who have added the Renntech Stage 1 to their c32, how much of a difference did you notice immediately? Maybe my expectations were unrealistic and I didn't expect to be driving a 911 Turbo but I don't see that much of a difference for 45/55 added. I was surprised that I didn't even lay rubber when taking off in 1st. Any other experiences?
#2
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03' E39 M5, 10' CLS63 AMG
For those who have added the Renntech Stage 1 to their c32, how much of a difference did you notice immediately? Maybe my expectations were unrealistic and I didn't expect to be driving a 911 Turbo but I don't see that much of a difference for 45/55 added. I was surprised that I didn't even lay rubber when taking off in 1st. Any other experiences?
there are 2 ways of doing that try it out it may give u the pull u want:
the first way is these steps:
1.Turn the ignition key to the on (not start) position.
2. Press the gas pedal to the floor and hold for five seconds.
3. Turn the key to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
4. Wait at least two minutes for ECU to reset.
or an easy way is:
when ur car is rolling at about 10Mph put the car in "N" and rev up the car to read line and then turn the key off. bring the car to a full stop then start the car back up, and try to take off the line see if u notice a difference.
#3
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Jeep Liberty
For those who have added the Renntech Stage 1 to their c32, how much of a difference did you notice immediately? Maybe my expectations were unrealistic and I didn't expect to be driving a 911 Turbo but I don't see that much of a difference for 45/55 added. I was surprised that I didn't even lay rubber when taking off in 1st. Any other experiences?
Obvious questions would be was the RENNtech stage 1 installed with a before and after dyno performed? Is your traction control off? How many miles do you have on your car, has the I/C pump been replaced yet?
I can destroy my tires rolling at 20-25mph and stomping on it.
#4
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1959 220S / 1979 230 G / 2002 A210 AMG / 2003 C320 SC / 2004.5 C320 SS / 2005 ML350 SE / 2008 smart
a RENNtech stage 1 on a C320 V6 M112 took about 5-6 days to kick in.
I was told to drive the car either hard & fast or easy & slow once the ECU came back, so that it could adapt to my driving style.
Sure enough in about a week, I suddenly felt this surge of torque everytime I launched from stop.
I'm assuming the same may hold true for the C32. Although, like everyone said before, I'm surprised your car wasn't doing that with just plain stock power. Unlike my C320 V6, that in itself is nothing to laugh at.
Carlos
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Saprissa@aol.com
I was told to drive the car either hard & fast or easy & slow once the ECU came back, so that it could adapt to my driving style.
Sure enough in about a week, I suddenly felt this surge of torque everytime I launched from stop.
I'm assuming the same may hold true for the C32. Although, like everyone said before, I'm surprised your car wasn't doing that with just plain stock power. Unlike my C320 V6, that in itself is nothing to laugh at.
Carlos
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
Saprissa@aol.com
#5
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Mine is a different car after the upgrade.
I actually did the flash first and a month later, the pulley. The difference was there in every single stage (Stock - ECU only - ECU + Pulley).
My first impression was that extra pull you get at higher rpms. I haven't dynoed it yet but I can tell you by just driving, the car feels stronger (and thirstier too).
To conclude my note, I have a friend with an 04 RS6 (w/ Sportec exhaust). After the upgrade, we did a few runs from 40 to 140 and I kept up every single time. It was all about who jumped on the accelerator first. He was destroying me before.
I actually did the flash first and a month later, the pulley. The difference was there in every single stage (Stock - ECU only - ECU + Pulley).
My first impression was that extra pull you get at higher rpms. I haven't dynoed it yet but I can tell you by just driving, the car feels stronger (and thirstier too).
To conclude my note, I have a friend with an 04 RS6 (w/ Sportec exhaust). After the upgrade, we did a few runs from 40 to 140 and I kept up every single time. It was all about who jumped on the accelerator first. He was destroying me before.
#6
Thanks guys, a lot of good feedback there. I am in Las Vegas so the hot weather could have an effect however I thought that I would see more of a difference. I thought that they did an ECU tune so would resetting the chip really need to be done? I'll give it a shot if you think it would make a difference.
My car only has 38k miles on it. I haven't had the I/C checked however it was just in the shop twice and got diagnostics done both times. And yes, I did turn the ESP off. I am definitely not getting the night/day noticable difference that you are describing.
My car only has 38k miles on it. I haven't had the I/C checked however it was just in the shop twice and got diagnostics done both times. And yes, I did turn the ESP off. I am definitely not getting the night/day noticable difference that you are describing.
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2003 C32 AMG & 2009 CTS-V
For those who have added the Renntech Stage 1 to their c32, how much of a difference did you notice immediately? Maybe my expectations were unrealistic and I didn't expect to be driving a 911 Turbo but I don't see that much of a difference for 45/55 added. I was surprised that I didn't even lay rubber when taking off in 1st. Any other experiences?
This confirms what one of the other regulars in here said some time back,... the performance from C32 to C32 varies widely.
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#8
You can't lay rubber from a dead stop???? I can, (no smoke or anything spectacular like that, but I can certainly break'em at least) and this thing is completely stock!!! I'm dissappointed because I can't get a chirp from 1st to 2nd!
This confirms what one of the other regulars in here said some time back,... the performance from C32 to C32 varies widely.
This confirms what one of the other regulars in here said some time back,... the performance from C32 to C32 varies widely.
Is resetting the ECU really a good idea since it just went to Renntech to get programmed? They told me there was no breaking in period however like I said, I didn't notice hardly any difference for a 50hp gain.
#9
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a Black
Since you are driving my old car, I can say...I could lay rubber from first any time and often in second, if I caught the power band just right.
Not sure what is up. Maybe it is a time thing; a few days????? The heat does also eat up that sc.
Wanna race before the week's end?
Don't want that stage 1 to kick my ***.
Good luck
Not sure what is up. Maybe it is a time thing; a few days????? The heat does also eat up that sc.
Wanna race before the week's end?
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Good luck
#10
Since you are driving my old car, I can say...I could lay rubber from first any time and often in second, if I caught the power band just right.
Not sure what is up. Maybe it is a time thing; a few days????? The heat does also eat up that sc.
Wanna race before the week's end?
Don't want that stage 1 to kick my ***.
Good luck
Not sure what is up. Maybe it is a time thing; a few days????? The heat does also eat up that sc.
Wanna race before the week's end?
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Good luck
#12
Tried to send you a PM but your box is full. I reset the ECU this morning but still not getting the power boost I thought I would. And that was with the cool morning air and no A/C running. I figured it would just dump the tires in first, but I feel like I have even less power than before the Renntech. I emailed Renntech but I guess I have to take it back to the shop and drive a PT Cruiser around for a couple days again.
Good luck. Keep us posted.
#13
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My car is fairly stock performance wise and I can easily spin my wheels from a dead stop by stomping the pedal.. I can also spin my wheels at any time even rolling in first or second by flooring it.. and I have new tires.. No problem!
I've even scared the **** out of myself with ESP off when I wasn't paying enough attention and gave it a little too much gas.
I've even scared the **** out of myself with ESP off when I wasn't paying enough attention and gave it a little too much gas.
#15
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silver 2002 c32 amg
i seem to have the same problem
Mine's pretty much stock at the moment having just the resonator delete and a sprintbooster but...
as i've already mentioned in another thread i don't get any wheelspin either.
i know this isn't normal. when i first got this car it would spin its wheels all the time.
infact the first time i tried to launch it with esp off i nearly destroyed the tyres,
now i can floor it from a standstill and the most i get is a slight chirp and it's away
i took the car into the local dealer and they diagnosed the I/C Pump as being faulty so I had it replaced.
after collecting the car i went for a drive and tried a few standing starts,... still no wheelspin
i'm pretty sure it's not heat soak because it aint exactly hot over here at the moment, and when testing i've only driven the car till it's just warmed up then tried to launch it
i've had the timing gear on and i'm reaching 60mph in around 5.9/6.0 secs so i can't see it being the supercharger at fault.
the car doesn't feel slow but my 60ft times are up around 3 seconds which seems really slow .
my car is getting ready for a service but i wouldn't have thought that would have much of an effect
i've also heard of other c32 owner who don't get wheelspin when launching yet they haven't noticed a lack of power
Mine's pretty much stock at the moment having just the resonator delete and a sprintbooster but...
as i've already mentioned in another thread i don't get any wheelspin either.
i know this isn't normal. when i first got this car it would spin its wheels all the time.
infact the first time i tried to launch it with esp off i nearly destroyed the tyres,
now i can floor it from a standstill and the most i get is a slight chirp and it's away
i took the car into the local dealer and they diagnosed the I/C Pump as being faulty so I had it replaced.
after collecting the car i went for a drive and tried a few standing starts,... still no wheelspin
i'm pretty sure it's not heat soak because it aint exactly hot over here at the moment, and when testing i've only driven the car till it's just warmed up then tried to launch it
i've had the timing gear on and i'm reaching 60mph in around 5.9/6.0 secs so i can't see it being the supercharger at fault.
the car doesn't feel slow but my 60ft times are up around 3 seconds which seems really slow .
my car is getting ready for a service but i wouldn't have thought that would have much of an effect
i've also heard of other c32 owner who don't get wheelspin when launching yet they haven't noticed a lack of power
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Last edited by timberman; 06-29-2007 at 01:08 PM.
#16
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C32 AMG - in Pewter
Yeah, 3 secs for 60 ft is slow. I hit it at ~2.2 and have lots of spin - 100% stock.
It is almost looks like you are driving in Winter mode where car starts in 2nd gear and therefore struggles in the first 60 ft. Not likely, as you would have noticed that. Perhaps some of the basics need checking - air filters, fuel filter, spark plugs and wires.
It is almost looks like you are driving in Winter mode where car starts in 2nd gear and therefore struggles in the first 60 ft. Not likely, as you would have noticed that. Perhaps some of the basics need checking - air filters, fuel filter, spark plugs and wires.
#17
i had a hard time laying rubber with renntech stage 1 in this hot houston weather once the car got up to operating temp...it is a characteristic of the heat soak issues with the intercooler system...with all of the cooling upgrades that i have done, i never have a problem laying rubber anymore...
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#18
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C32
Interesting that I also could not spin the wheels after having the intercooler pump replaced, which I was surprised by.
The car is at the dealer at the moment, so I am going to ask them to clear the adaptions, and see if this makes a difference.
The car is at the dealer at the moment, so I am going to ask them to clear the adaptions, and see if this makes a difference.
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2003 C32 AMG & 2009 CTS-V
i have not done the the stage one Renntech, but u should be braking loose even when u car was stock. if i take off the ESP on my car and slam the peddle i leave behind a smoke trail, my car will burn rubber till 2nd gear. and then it will take off, with nothing but smoke behind me. so u not braking loose that is something different, may be u need to reset ur chip?
there are 2 ways of doing that try it out it may give u the pull u want:
the first way is these steps:
1.Turn the ignition key to the on (not start) position.
2. Press the gas pedal to the floor and hold for five seconds.
3. Turn the key to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
4. Wait at least two minutes for ECU to reset.
or an easy way is:
when ur car is rolling at about 10Mph put the car in "N" and rev up the car to read line and then turn the key off. bring the car to a full stop then start the car back up, and try to take off the line see if u notice a difference.
there are 2 ways of doing that try it out it may give u the pull u want:
the first way is these steps:
1.Turn the ignition key to the on (not start) position.
2. Press the gas pedal to the floor and hold for five seconds.
3. Turn the key to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
4. Wait at least two minutes for ECU to reset.
or an easy way is:
when ur car is rolling at about 10Mph put the car in "N" and rev up the car to read line and then turn the key off. bring the car to a full stop then start the car back up, and try to take off the line see if u notice a difference.
#21
Super Moderator Alumni
By the way, Step 4 is not needed. I've taken the key out right away or started up within a minute and still noticed the reset.
Just try it and report back to us. I'll bet you see the ESP light flicker for several hundred yards, if you stomp on it.
#22
Do not do the battery disconnect! That's just downright stupid complicated compared to the 4 step process. You will notice a HUGE difference with the "key on, press the gas" method. You could do it every day if you wanted to but it takes about 40 accelerations to fully "re-train" the ECU.
By the way, Step 4 is not needed. I've taken the key out right away or started up within a minute and still noticed the reset.
Just try it and report back to us. I'll bet you see the ESP light flicker for several hundred yards, if you stomp on it.
By the way, Step 4 is not needed. I've taken the key out right away or started up within a minute and still noticed the reset.
Just try it and report back to us. I'll bet you see the ESP light flicker for several hundred yards, if you stomp on it.
#23
Super Moderator
#24
Super Moderator Alumni
The gas press and 4 step are the same thing! And as Splinter said, who mentioned anything about redline?
#25
i have not done the the stage one Renntech, but u should be braking loose even when u car was stock. if i take off the ESP on my car and slam the peddle i leave behind a smoke trail, my car will burn rubber till 2nd gear. and then it will take off, with nothing but smoke behind me. so u not braking loose that is something different, may be u need to reset ur chip?
there are 2 ways of doing that try it out it may give u the pull u want:
the first way is these steps:
1.Turn the ignition key to the on (not start) position.
2. Press the gas pedal to the floor and hold for five seconds.
3. Turn the key to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
4. Wait at least two minutes for ECU to reset.
or an easy way is:
when ur car is rolling at about 10Mph put the car in "N" and rev up the car to read line and then turn the key off. bring the car to a full stop then start the car back up, and try to take off the line see if u notice a difference.
there are 2 ways of doing that try it out it may give u the pull u want:
the first way is these steps:
1.Turn the ignition key to the on (not start) position.
2. Press the gas pedal to the floor and hold for five seconds.
3. Turn the key to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
4. Wait at least two minutes for ECU to reset.
or an easy way is:
when ur car is rolling at about 10Mph put the car in "N" and rev up the car to read line and then turn the key off. bring the car to a full stop then start the car back up, and try to take off the line see if u notice a difference.