TrojanStealth

So I took my car on it's first dyno run today. For those who have read my other thread, I was disappointed with the performance of my c32 after Renntech Stage 1. So I took it to the dyno tonight, Mustang Dynamometer with the Weather Correction Factor since it's almost 100 degrees here in Vegas even after midnight.

The way that the software was catching it, for some reason it wasn't making an accurate graph just starting in 3rd. Therefore I would start in 2nd, tach it up to the redline, and then catch it in 3rd all the way back up. Here are the results. Can't say I'm thrilled, nor surprised.

273.8 hp @ 6238 RPM / 100.3 MPH
with WCF = 305.4 hp

256.1 lb. ft. @ 4575 RPM / 73.7 MPH
with WCF = 285.6 lb. ft.

I'm supposed to take 18% loss from the crank correct? So that leaves me with 372 hp and 348 lb. ft. of Torque. Does that seem low to anyone else? The evosport stage 1 graph looks a lot better than that, showing 349/350. What do you think?

C32ken

oh since this is a dyno thread, nice numbers....

i have a question though. i visited my tuner today and brought the C32, since they are slow, we decided to put my car on dynojet just for a couple fun pulls. not too serious, no tach lead for torque, no O2 sensor lead for AFR, just plain roller. but when we did it, we cant really get a good graph... started at 3rd and when it was going up, it downshifts to 2nd. is this normal? how did you redline 2nd without downshifting? or is that why you started on 2nd coz i doesnt downshift to 1st and so you can redline it before it shifted to 3rd? where did you get your peak power? at 3rd?. TIA for your answer. we just stopped it after couple pulls from 3rd coz it kept downshifting. we read a 247whp though but thats not even pulling hard, i wonder what others get from stock.

what is the proper way of dynoing our touchshift tranny?

sales@eurocharged.com

The tuner needs to baby the car to keep in from shifting. Put her in 3rd and get up to about 3600-3800 RPM before getting on it. It's possible!

As far as the low dyno numbers goes....welcome to the club!

There could be many things that are causing the low readings... this is something I have personally experienced many times over.

Did you do a baseline before the upgrade?

What other mods do you have?

You should be around 330WHP with Renntech Stage I.

schirki

Hello,

How you convert, the WHP, into (Engine)HP?

Frank

neihouma

A mustang dyno is more a tuner / loading dyno vs a dynojet, so whatever #
you get multiply it by 1.25 to 1.28. I'd do a 1.28 since automatic cars looses
more than a manual car.

What mods did you have? I assume you had the recall done?

RBYCC

I'd use 1.3 based on my recent Mustang dyno pull.
My base pull prior to twin turbo install on my M103-12V was 135.9HP/145.3torque versus published 177HP/188 torque.

Mustang load dyno reads about 18% lower then an inertia type dyno such as a DynoJet

dkflipse

Rey, did you get ever get to do the Dyno?

Fifth Ring

This proves why baselines are so important, and why a dyno number is not the same as actual performance. You can achieve a higher peak HP/Torque number, but what you will FEEL is not the peak number, but the whole curve. Why not do some 0-60 or 1/4 mile runs and see what they reveal. You can greatly improve performance without changing peak output if you can push up the whole curve (particularly torque).

I hope you find a solution, or at least a positive explanation.

alumar

Hrm, my baseline was 281hp, 269tq if i remember correctly... i would say somethings not right.

After Renntech software and ASP Pullys i went to 317HP...

1/4 time went from 13.56 @ 107 to 13.03 @ 111mph

Excel sheet of times from Race Event where I got my best quarter time

RBYCC

Something is not correlating !

HP = RPM x TORQUE / 5252

HP = 6238 x 256.1 / 5252

1597551.8/5252 = 304.2 HP

If you look at your graph, HP and Torque should cross/equal @ 5252RPM.
Dyno reads torque and computes to HP.

neihouma

I didn't want go that low, but glad to see other people sees it.

Back when I used to work in a shop with a Mustang dyno people
were calling me crazy when I told them to multiply it by 1.31.

I myself am I firm believer, on my M3 Turbo I made 402rwhp
and 411rwtq at 18psi on the Mustang dyno. On another, hotter
day I made 442rwhp and 459rwtq at 18psi. Ever since then
no one in the world could tell me anything that a Dynojet is
the same as a Mustang dyno.

Yup, like TrojanStealth I think he's too suffering from a load
limit software issue. Anything done to the car Donn? Did you
do the IC replacement yet? I have two plugs that will fit the
SVT lightning pump. It's also a Ford Focus Camshaft sensor.

Thinking of what to do with the car. I want to make a 1/4 pass
before I make a judgement with it. If I don't keep it there's
gonna be a ASP pulley with a belt, Magnecor wires for sale soon.

neihouma

According to his rwhp and rwtq posted, he's making 359BHP
and 335TQ.

sales@eurocharged.com

Before you try anything else, take the car to a dynojet and let it cool down after they get it hooked up. Once cool, let the car get to normal operating temps, and then do your pulls.

Some people disagree, but heat is a huge factor with this car.

StealthAuto

Very nice numbers!

TrojanStealth

Thanks guys for all the responses. I too felt that something was wrong however I ran several passes and came back with similar numbers everytime. It all depends on how much loss you are factoring in from the Mustang. If the WCF are correct, let's just say 305 hp x 1.28 = 390 hp and 285 lb. x 1.28 = 365 lb. ft. That is fairly close to the Renntech claims and definitely better than stock. If you multiply by 1.3, they are almost right on the money.

I too had the problem with it downshifting. Perhaps I wasn't doing it property but I was having issues. Even for the first run from 2nd it tached to redline, seemed to drop about 1,000 rpms before taching back up, and then finally upshifting to 3rd. Is running it like this on the dyno bad for my car? The transmission did seem to shift differently following the run?

I have not had the IC pump changed out yet. The dealer claims over and over again that it is fine. I was just going to wait until I get my custom IC. Does anyone know the pump rate of the current IC pump in gallons?

It seems that most people are claiming from 315, up to 330 hp at the rear wheels after similar mods. If you're saying that a Mustang tends to lose more in the transfer, 305 Weather Corrected HP would be right around the right number, would it not? You're right however, I should have gotten baseline numbers. I won't run it again until the heat comes down below 75-80 degrees out here.

neihouma

So what were the rwhp and rwtq made on the dyno?

Those are the #'s you multiply 1.21 (dynojet) to 1.28 (mustang)

Eurocharged Rick

did you put the car in dyno mode?

TrojanStealth

How do you do that?

It made 305/285. So by your numbers, 390/364.

AdamG@NorCal

+1.

Trojan, i think you should have dyno-ed the car before the mods were installed. It's hard to calculate a net gain when you have no previous numbers to guide you.

Try dyno-ing the car again in dyno mode and run in a couple of times back to back.

Eurocharged Rick

that is your problem...go back to the dyno and do the following, then report back...

Dyno Mode
To Dyno your C32, you will need to do the following:
1. To start, the key must be removed from the ignition.
2. Insert the key and turn to position 1.
3. Immediately press and hold the trip odometer reset button until the instrument cluster beeps. There is no visual message, only an audio beep. Be patient, this takes around 40 seconds.
4. Press the lower menu button (it looks like two sheets of paper, the one with the writing in the background behind the blank one) 5. Press the up arrow button.
6. Press the "+" sign to disable the Traction System (turn "ON" test mode) 7. Start the engine, the traction system is now disabled.
To return to normal, remove the key and restart the engine. The traction control warning should no longer be in the cluster. If it is, shut the engine off and remove the key again. Then insert the key and turn to position 1. Note that the DYNO test screen is displayed immediately. Push the "-" button to enable the traction system (turn "OFF" test mode)
NOTE: When you first turn the key to position 1, ESP DYNO Test screen pops up, then after 1-2 seconds it may disappear while faults are displayed. If you weren't fast enough in pressing the "-" button before codes were displayed, just wait until all codes cycle by, then the ESP DYNO Test screen will reappear.
No, this doesn't work for any car but the 203, before you ask.
Enjoy, and I'm not buying you new tires!
On cars equipped with Command, to enter the diagnostic screen press and hold the following keys for about 8 seconds: Mute + 1 + 3

neihouma

So how did you come up with the lower #'s in your first post?

Eurocharged Rick

the lower numbers are the actual numbers that the car made on the dyno, the higher numbers are the corrected numbers based on a SAE standard that takes into account temp, humidity, etc...

TrojanStealth

Thanks again for all the feedback. So my question is, did I screw up my car running it like I did? I'm very particular about this vehicle and I feel like I may have did damage. I reset the ECU after the run to fix the malfunctions listed on the instrument control, and ever since, the transmission has been shifting much softer. When I first got it back and reset it, the transmission would shift hard and crisp, almost like a manual, and now I'm shifting like a Toyota Corolla. Any correlation?

Even now that I know, I probably won't re-dyno until it's cooler out here. What ever happened to the Evosport Cooling Package? They gave it up?

Eurocharged Rick

no, you should not have screwed up your car...it just won't make all of the power to the wheels...drive it aggressively and the crisp shifts will come back...the transmission programming adapts according to your driving style...

neihouma

On a mustang dyno you enter all that information.
Automatically changes everything for you, hence why I said
the mustang dyno is a true tuning dyno vs a dynojet, where
all it does it gives you high hopes and numbers.

On a dynojet you have six settings to choose from:

Uncorrected
SAE
DIN
EEC
STD
JIS

Hell I even called up my old job and the shop where I was
going to use a mustang dyno verified they don't have those
settings to choose from, you enter all the information and
the dyno automatically corrects it for you. Oh and they both
have updated software too.

I don't have access to mustang dyno software, sorry so no
proof for that end.