New I/C pump, IAT still high , S/C cuts off
Any idea, aside form the faulty I/C pump???

Going back to the dealer tomorrow afternoon.
IAT is still hovering around 175F with normal (well slightly spirited
) driving in cool weather.As for the differences in behavior between the two instances:
- Previous problem - When the pump was out the previous time, S/C would cut off when you step on the gas just after cruising on the highway at 80mph. S/C cut off was more frequent, often causing jerks as it goes on and off.
- This time - Now it would cut off only after hard acceleration when RPMs reach 5000+ RPMs, though it does not go off during the acceleration, no matter how hard it is. It cuts off after that, as I let the gas off, wait for speed to decrease say by 20mph, and then apply full throttle. It seems as if the S/C is engaged until the moment I start pressing the gas and then after a split second it goes off.
MB’s procedure necessitates activating the pump while plugging (“pinching off”) the intercooler core fluid return line. Upon proper evacuation of the system, the I/C vent hose (yellow) that normally connects to the anti-freeze/anti-corrosion fluid reservoir is to then be observed discharging only a steady stream of fluid.
Also check the relay associated with the pump. The relay can be faulty causing the pump to not work. When I had a C32 it went through 4 pumps and an intercooler core.
If you cant get is fixed with the relay - pump or the bleeding solution there is always the chance that your intercooler in the V of the motor has started leaking. If this happens the core can be caked in dried coolant and it prevents the air from traveling through the fins and this means your charge air is never cooled. I had this happen.
To check to the leaking core pull the intake manifold off and peek down into the runners. IF you see dried up coolant caked everywhere that is a bad sign. This means coolant is clogging everything up and you have seriously restriced air flow and a clogged intercooler core.
The coolant will collect once the car is shut off and the system is still pressurized. Once it sits for a bit it dries very hard. When it leads under use the car just burns the coolant up in the combustion chamber.
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If the intake air is getting too hot, the issue should be intercooler, pump or the blower has excessive friction. The engine coolant temp should be about 90C.
Also, it would be nice if you could check monitor the battery voltage, when the supercharger cuts out, if the voltage gets too low at the supercharger clutch or relay it will disengage. Also, the ECU will drop it out at 9V.
If the IAT sensor were bad or had a bad connection, it may affect temp ECU intake air temp readings and cause early drop out.
How are your air filters? A collapsed intake hose can cause some issues also (lots of drag for the blower).
Last edited by m444; Oct 24, 2007 at 10:55 PM.
Don, good points. I will monitor the Battery next time I plug in my CarChip.
I changes the filters last spring with original air filters, same part number, made in Germany. Timing of the problem roughly fits, though I checked the filter box and all seems original, bought from a reputable o-line place. So, these filter should not make it harder for the S/C to suck air in. Checked the whole visible air intake path and all looks good. I am now convinced to try the Green filters and see if IAT is lower with them as they have less air resistance.
The interesting thing is that S/C does not cut off during high RPM acceleration but right after that. Say I floor it at 60 and it goes to 120 mph with no problem. Then I let the speed dye down to say 70 and if I floor it at that point, no S/C at all. It seems as if the engine is trying to protect it self, high IAT being the main suspect. I will make sure they check the sensors as well.
a leaky intercooler is a very common problem with 32's








