TopGun32

Guys,

bough 9 qts of 0-40w Mobile 1
filter

1 kompressor clutch bearing

I had my mechanic lift the car, drain the oil and we poured 8 qts.

We replaced the bearings on the clutch and changed my front brake pads. All parts provided by me. Labor $100

its a little run down shop.. but they do the job.

drove the car home and I noticed a bit rougher idle and the power seem to need more effort.

drove for 1 day.. and I added .5 more oil.. since that is what I read.

the vibration at idle is more constant the before.

=====================================
1 week for my oil changed, I switched my Magnacors to OEM wires and the car was very smooth at iddle, with a slight vibration every 15 seconds when sitting on a light.

Now the vibratio is about every 5 secs. We ran a ODB2 scanner and no codes were found. Also power delivery needs more input from the pedal to get the car to react.

- too much oil in the system?
- pulley is loose? (we checked the bearing, komp clutch and no problems)
- transmission fluid?

I switched my IC pump last year, using the Bosche Ford pump and I'm not really loosing my Komp, just takes more input than before.

edtv82

i still have that issue... i just changed my i/c pump to the johnson... but there wasn't any change at idle still shakes and at times gets pretty bad every second and still the putting along like its going to cut out when i creep up at a light or stop sign...
i just ordered OEM plugs and going to change them... i was thinking about getting the Mag. Wires but i dont know if thats going to fix anything...

sorry didn't really help... but i have changed the oil, i/c pump and spark plugs... fuel filter... and about to do the s/c bearing as well (this weekend) ... i guess if you find a solution or a possible issue keep me updated... thanks..

Code3 Performance

Are you sure the shaking isn't coming from some other component, not engine related? First thing that comes to mind are motor mounts. If they are failing, you see shaking at idle. Take a look at how much engine movement you get when you rev the car. If you see the motor moving a lot, I bet thats your problem.

edtv82

yeah i checked that once before and its didn't seem to be the issue... when its cooler /low humidity the engine runs pretty good.. minimal shaking

TopGun32

Oem WIRES helped..

the car is running a bit smoother this week, but I think I have too much oil.

8.4 qts

I did get the message " too much oil " once.. but it has not re-appeared

430

Have you checked your motor mounts? They are known to go bad. I had 2 collapse on me.

TopGun32

I have not..

but will check on those next!

Any chance you have the part numbers on those mounts?

edtv82

ok... thought i had the motor mounts checked out last time it was in for service... but there wasn't anything on my slips... so how do i check them... since im sure the service tech was trying to cut a corner or two... ?

MarcusF

It's just a guess but, when an engine has too much oil, the oil will get aerated. It gets aerated when the oil level is high enough to where the spinning crank comes in contact with it. This causes the oil to foam, IE become aerated. This aerated oil doesn’t supply great oil pressure, which makes it hard on the bearings and cam lobes, but it also fills the crankcase with oil vapors. How does this cause a rough idle? The job of the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve is to suck vapors from the crankcase back into the intake stream. If the crankcase has a high amount of oil vapor, and that vapor is mixed with the intake air, the intake won’t ignite as cleanly as it should. In the old days, this would result in fouled plugs. Today’s CD ignition systems don’t allow the plugs to foul as quickly, but this can still translate to a rough idle.

I don’t know whether an E55 has an oil pan baffle, but if the level is too high, a baffle can only do so much.

Even if the oil level isn't the cause of the bad idle, I'd lower it. Like I said before, aerated oil is REALLY tough on bearings and cam lobes.

I hope that helps

Code3 Performance

Now there is an idea!

TopGun32

this is why I love this board.

thanks man!

TopGun32

well... took about 1 qt of oil out...

car runs smoother.. and idles smoother.

but my kompressor clutch is probably does not have the spacing required, since its not engaging as quickly as needed..

or my IC pump is going bad..

I'm checking my motor mounts this week.. I'll post more info.

TopGun32

i played around with my kompressor magnet today...

the spacing was not quite right. I can feel improvement on the kompressor engagement.

anybody have the specs on the kompressor clutch magnet spacing?

1qikctr

always used mobil 1 Syn tech 10-30

edtv82

why a 10w30? and not the oem 0w40? just a curious question...

iceking6943

I used to run Mobil 1. Now I run the Valvoline Durablend in the purple bottle. Reports show that its a lot better than Mobil 1. Mobil 1 is a lot more harsh on the metal than most other synthetics. Also your other problem with the car could be the idle air control. A very very common problem on late model cars. They may have a different term they use on C32's. as in the PCV valve, its definitely air related to be intermittent like that