ShawnQ

Weird...there was no way I could stretch the stock hoses to come anywhere close to the airboxes.

SQ

c32used

we used extenders also. No way it would attach without them.

ShawnQ

This pic you posted:



The 'STOCK' inlet tubes are still on the STOCK splitter. So, I don't think you used the STOCK tubes. They are also shaped differently, with less 'ribs'. Also, notice the factory clamps holding the tubes onto the SL55 Splitter...those are non-adjustable (making me think the SL55 Splitter came with these tubes on it).

Am I missing something? I'm not trying to argue, just trying to figure this out...right now, I feel like this :

lol

Still looks to me like you used the SL55 intake tubes with the SL55 Y-Pipe, and the stock tubes are still on the stock splitter.

Thanks,
SQ

chuckactor

It's still not clear to me where the splitter hoses were extended on the pics from C32used. I thought you used the couplers to make up the diameter difference between the C32 airbox outlets and the SL55 hoses. I didn't know that they had to be extended to fit as well. From the pics it looks like the SL55 hoses go right up to the airboxes. I guess if there is an extension in there it matches up with the hoses well enough to hide it.

Just curious as I have the parts coming in this week. I got them to add the P/N to the search feature on oempartsdirect. Their database shows just the individual parts that you can't order. If you do a search using the new assembly number it come up though.

Does anyone have a pic of the extender pieces they made from the couplers to adapt the SL55 hoses? Is the joint between the extensions and the hoses hidden under the outer clamps?

Thanks,
Chuck

ShawnQ

I think you and I are correct. I think the diameter is a bit larger on the SL55 tubes, so you put a 'spacer' inside of the hose to adapt it to the smaller outlet on the C32 airboxes.

BUT, I think the length is correct.

I'm afraid c32used is mistaken..???

SQ

c32used

Yes you are correct I feel dumb now for posting something without double checking so yes it appears I got the splitter with its tubes connected but still used a rubber spacer pictured at beginning of thread cut in half and streched it some to get a very snug fit. Thanks for letting me know my error

Not offended what so ever just feel stupid for not checking and going by memory.

c32used

This is correct also we used a spacer to matchup the hoses to the air boxes.

c32used

Chuck the picture of the hose extender we used is a biggining of thread that AMG-Jerry posted it adapts to the larger diameter of the SL55 hose and connects perfectly to the air boxes and we used ace hardware clamp...size I don't recall so ask Jerry he might remember.

ShawnQ

The adapter diameter is probably 2" - it will stretch over the airbox and fit nice and snug.

I used a 2" x 2" Flexible Coupler by Americanvalve.com , sold at Lowe's for around $5/ea.

If I understand this post now, the SL55 air tubes are larger than the opening on the stock air boxes. So, you basically cut a thin piece of the 2" coupler to act as a piece of material to fill the difference between the outside diameter of the stock airbox, and the inside diameter of the SL55 air tubes.

C32used, No prob man...I knew I'd talk you out of your funk eventually

Dyno on my car is scheduled for Saturday, 10am cst. We'll see what happens.

1qikctr

jerry those photos has been very helpful !

sales@eurocharged.com

We didn't use extenders. We used the rubber adapters to change the size of the stock box.

sales@eurocharged.com

Which photos? The ones of Victors car above? I didn't take those, he took the time to provide them. Thanks Victor!

sales@eurocharged.com

me too...should have read the whole thread.

c32used

I meant adapters.....couldn't think of the name sorry.

ShawnQ

Run # 1 - WITH SL55 Y-Pipe (004.drf)

274.45hp / 284.13tq

Run # 2 - WITH SL55 Y-Pipe (005.drf)

273.47hp / 282.60tq

Run # 3 - W/OUT SL55 Y-Pipe, stock (007.drf)

283.29hp / 289.30tq

Run # 4 - W/OUT SL55 Y-Pipe, stock (008.drf)

280.77hp / 283.83tq


-All runs were on a Dynojet dyno, 80* air temp / 95% humidity.

-All runs were done in 4th gear

-Fuse #17 & #18 were removed for dynoing

-Car would hit a 'rev-limiter' at 5600 rpm. The guy said there is probably another 10hp if it would hit redline or closer.

-The graph looks 'odd' because you couldn't MASH the throttle without it kicking down to 3rd gear.

I'm anxious to see if anyone dynos their car with the SL55 Y-Pipe AND the SL55 inlet tubes, or even the whole SL55 airbox setup (complete system).

So, in conclusion, with K&N Filters - the SL55 Y-Pipe HURT the car. Remember, I do not have the SL55 Inlet tubes...I made the stock inlet tubes fit (which could defeat the purpose of the SL55 Y-Pipe).




SQ

MRAMG1

[QUOTE=ShawnQ;

So, in conclusion, with K&N Filters - the SL55 Y-Pipe HURT the car. Remember, I do not have the SL55 Inlet tubes...I made the stock inlet tubes fit (which could defeat the purpose of the SL55 Y-Pipe).




SQ[/QUOTE]

Hey there ShawnQ:

THANKS for the good old fashion work

God how I love this site!!!! One less mod for me to have to worry about. You know after all is said and done, Those boys over in Germany REALLY NO THEIR SH_T.

See yeah

ShawnQ

I also plan to try it at the track, both ways.

Without being able to open the throttle up through the whole dyno run because it would down shift...we could be missing a low-end gain over the stock pipe. Although the peak power is less, the low end may be what makes it 'feel' faster out of the hole and around town.

Otherwise, I could've been mistaken about the 'noticeable' gain due to the fact that you can hear the supercharger much more and you can hear the intake better.

SQ

turbo16lbs

Which runs incuded the K&N filters?

ShawnQ

All 4 of them were with the K&N filters - I didn't want to pay too much $$ to dyno 2 more times without the K&N's (with stock filters installed) because several people have done this before it seems.

SQ

Guran

https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...ghlight=y-pipe

Bif powell

Ahem

Others have done this same experiment with similar results - that's what I meant by "conclusively", I wasn't just going by people's guesses Maybe with some supporting mods/programming it would be different/more intuitive.

Nice process though.

c32used

+1

Harry Madan

hey guys, i did this to my car about 3 months ago. and had to remove the unit to get some warranty work, because the dealer told me that with that peas on there is a chance that they wont do the warranty work on my car, because its been altered. Long story shot.. when i took that splitter off i found something that i did not like... so when i put it back on i had to make some adjustments
i added a pic of what i found.. sorry i dont the pic from my car but i just used on of the pic u guys posted.
well in the pic the red circle on the right shows a mettle clip, there is also a mettle clip that u cant see in the red circle on the left.. which is behind the SL55 splitter hose, as u drive that hose moves back and forth and the mettle clips starts cutting in to the hose. which over time can create a small hold in the hose... to fix this problem what i did was just re-located that clip a little to the left. the only mettle clip that rubs is on the right side of the engine. Something u guys should look at.. a leak in the hose could cause problems

c32used

I can say all looks fine with mine no metal clip behind mine to cut into splitter tubes and never once in six visits was asked by Dealer to remove/replace for warranty work. I think your dealer is one that is veery picky and that what occurred to you doesn't occur to all. But thanks for the warning

ShawnQ

I plan to try it at the track, and will also do a pulley swap and tune eventually. If I can afford it, I'll dyno with and without it to see what I come up with.

I just couldn't believe that I LOST 10hp with it? Didn't make much sense!

SQ