ASP pulley Install question
#1
ASP pulley Install question
I just got a used set of ASP pulley of ebay I got the basic of how to put it in but just two questions. What idler pulley is swaped out and do I need to use thread lock on the crank pulley
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread lock YES, locktite blue or equivalant
torque it to 147 ft/lbs according LET, aka Erick
pully
See yeah
#4
I just did the install. Here are the basic steps....going by memory.
1) Order the damper holder tool off ebay
2) Get a couple pieces of pipe to put on your holder to extend the handle to about 3 feet and an extension for a 1/2 breaker bar as well. The breaker bar needs a 3" extension and a 27mm socket.
3) Snap off engine cover
4) Make a sketch of the belt routing
5) Loosen water pump pulley belts (4x)
6) Remove belt - use a 15mm socket on the tensioner
7) Put holder on crank pulley (damper) and remove bolt
8) Slide pulley off end of crank
9) Remove water pump pulley
10) Install new crank pulley and torque to 150 ft-lbs
11) Remove idler pulley (above water pump). You may need to loosen the brackets holding the air injection tubes to get clearnace to pull bolt out. They are reverse torx but a 5/16" socket works.
12) Install new idler pump pulley (snap ring toward radiator). Leave off stock dust guard.
13) Tighten brackets for air tubes if you loosened.
14) Install new water pump pulley. I used blue loctite on bolts since there were signs of threadlocker on the bolts (handtight).
15) Install belt
16) Tighten water pump bolts.
17) Snap engine cover back on
18) enjoy...
Should take less than an hour.
Chuck
1) Order the damper holder tool off ebay
2) Get a couple pieces of pipe to put on your holder to extend the handle to about 3 feet and an extension for a 1/2 breaker bar as well. The breaker bar needs a 3" extension and a 27mm socket.
3) Snap off engine cover
4) Make a sketch of the belt routing
5) Loosen water pump pulley belts (4x)
6) Remove belt - use a 15mm socket on the tensioner
7) Put holder on crank pulley (damper) and remove bolt
8) Slide pulley off end of crank
9) Remove water pump pulley
10) Install new crank pulley and torque to 150 ft-lbs
11) Remove idler pulley (above water pump). You may need to loosen the brackets holding the air injection tubes to get clearnace to pull bolt out. They are reverse torx but a 5/16" socket works.
12) Install new idler pump pulley (snap ring toward radiator). Leave off stock dust guard.
13) Tighten brackets for air tubes if you loosened.
14) Install new water pump pulley. I used blue loctite on bolts since there were signs of threadlocker on the bolts (handtight).
15) Install belt
16) Tighten water pump bolts.
17) Snap engine cover back on
18) enjoy...
Should take less than an hour.
Chuck
#5
Best bet is to get a new crank pulley bolt like $6 at the Stealership as for the idler well its the one near top of engine """"Don't Use Thread Lock at all""
#6
Hey PM punisherzx12 he installed mine is less then 45 minutes and has a special tool for the job.
#7
lol thanks for outbidding the hell out of me I was stoked thinking I was going to get it for $400 hope all goes well..
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#8
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
#10
So I got the pulleys on I didnt use locktite but got a new bolt and torqued it to 150LBS then took it to EuroElites in Fremont CA. Thouse guys are awsome very fast and helpfull. Not like I cant remove my ECU and ship it out but why have that trouble. Car feels like a monster but I think i IC pump is going because after one run or so at like 40-80 MPH my car will jerk down almost like a down shift or if I just droped the gas. Im guessing that is my SC cutting out.