DIY pulley install
01-14-2008, 06:54 AM
#1
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DIY pulley install
Okay guys:
I installed my pulley, HE and phenolic spacers over the weekend, and just wanted to give some instructions for you:
1. You need a torque wrench, up to 160 ft/lbs, small sockets, and a LARGE extension bar/breaker bar. THATS it.
2. Remove the plastic cover from the front of the engine, the one on top of the supercharger, it just pops off from three tabs, PULL UP.
3. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
4. If you are changing the water pump pulley, break loose the 4 small bolts now, while the belt is till on. they are only torqued to about 35 ft/lbs.
5. Look at the belt wrapping, so you can remeber how to put it back, its in your manual so if you forget its not a problem.
6. Use a 3/8" drive and socket on the pully tensioner, its the one to the right of the crank pulley. Don't be afraids to pull hard, as you will need to botton it out to get the belt off. Good time to replace the belt if you have over 20,000 miles now.
7. I bought the balancer holder key from Konikatools from ebay. they have rasied their price because of the rush by us modders, I offered them $40, and they excepted my offer. They list it for $48-52, on ebay so send them an offer. Note: This tool ONLY works with the stock balancer, but is worth it, as you will see next.
8. You will need a 27mm, try to get a 6 point so you will not round off the bolt, I used a 3" extension on the socket.
9. Place the holder on the dampered, and wedge it against the lower rad support, this will hold it place while you break the dampered bolt. I used an old torque wrecnh, with a 4' piece of pipe on it to break loose the bolt. To losen it you want to go COUNTER clockwise. Woirking from the drivers side of the front fender, I estimate my stock bolt broke loose around 350 ft/lbs. DON'T BE AFRAID TO PUSH WITH ALL YOUR MIGHT. Using your legs like in a squat to push up, and I do mean PUSH UP HARD. This is why the above tool works GREAT here.
10. Remove the bolt, my dampered slide right off, NO puller required.
11. Jak the car up and remove the 10 small bolts, they are self tapping sheet metal screws so be VERY careful when putting them back in as I stripped two of them, that hold the plastic under tray on your car. You will need to remove the front piece and the rear plastic piece to get to the torque converter to hold it in place to torque your new pulley on.
12. There are 2 small rubber plugs directly under the bell housing remove them, they pull out. I used an old prybar that you can wedge into the torque convertors flex plat to hold it in place while tourging the new bolt.
12. Slide your new dmapered/over dirve pulley on. Use Blue locktite on a NEW bolt. While one person is under the car holding your prybar, torque the NEW bolt to 160 ft/lbs.
13. Replace the water pump pulley if you bought a new one now. Rember to use a little locktite here.
14. Use the 3/8" ratchet to pull back on the tensior and replce the belt. Noting the way it wraps in your manual or memory here.
15. Torque the water pump bolts now that the belt holds it in place.
16. Replace the under trays and the 2 small rubber plugs on the bell hpousing, Being very careful on torquing these sheet metal screws as noted above.
17. Lower the car, and re connect the negative battery terminal.
18. Start her up, making sure the belt is properly located on ALL pullies.
19. Snap the engine cover back into place.
20. DRIVE and enjoy.
Gentlemen: I did not do a ECU retune, and my G-tech showed a gain of 21 HP.
THIS IS A MUST MOD that actually gives you a return on investment by the but o-meter, and REAL WORLD. Hope it helps
See yeah
Oh yeah Total time, GOING SLOW 1 1/2 hours, including a beer.
I installed my pulley, HE and phenolic spacers over the weekend, and just wanted to give some instructions for you:
1. You need a torque wrench, up to 160 ft/lbs, small sockets, and a LARGE extension bar/breaker bar. THATS it.
2. Remove the plastic cover from the front of the engine, the one on top of the supercharger, it just pops off from three tabs, PULL UP.
3. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
4. If you are changing the water pump pulley, break loose the 4 small bolts now, while the belt is till on. they are only torqued to about 35 ft/lbs.
5. Look at the belt wrapping, so you can remeber how to put it back, its in your manual so if you forget its not a problem.
6. Use a 3/8" drive and socket on the pully tensioner, its the one to the right of the crank pulley. Don't be afraids to pull hard, as you will need to botton it out to get the belt off. Good time to replace the belt if you have over 20,000 miles now.
7. I bought the balancer holder key from Konikatools from ebay. they have rasied their price because of the rush by us modders, I offered them $40, and they excepted my offer. They list it for $48-52, on ebay so send them an offer. Note: This tool ONLY works with the stock balancer, but is worth it, as you will see next.
8. You will need a 27mm, try to get a 6 point so you will not round off the bolt, I used a 3" extension on the socket.
9. Place the holder on the dampered, and wedge it against the lower rad support, this will hold it place while you break the dampered bolt. I used an old torque wrecnh, with a 4' piece of pipe on it to break loose the bolt. To losen it you want to go COUNTER clockwise. Woirking from the drivers side of the front fender, I estimate my stock bolt broke loose around 350 ft/lbs. DON'T BE AFRAID TO PUSH WITH ALL YOUR MIGHT. Using your legs like in a squat to push up, and I do mean PUSH UP HARD. This is why the above tool works GREAT here.
10. Remove the bolt, my dampered slide right off, NO puller required.
11. Jak the car up and remove the 10 small bolts, they are self tapping sheet metal screws so be VERY careful when putting them back in as I stripped two of them, that hold the plastic under tray on your car. You will need to remove the front piece and the rear plastic piece to get to the torque converter to hold it in place to torque your new pulley on.
12. There are 2 small rubber plugs directly under the bell housing remove them, they pull out. I used an old prybar that you can wedge into the torque convertors flex plat to hold it in place while tourging the new bolt.
12. Slide your new dmapered/over dirve pulley on. Use Blue locktite on a NEW bolt. While one person is under the car holding your prybar, torque the NEW bolt to 160 ft/lbs.
13. Replace the water pump pulley if you bought a new one now. Rember to use a little locktite here.
14. Use the 3/8" ratchet to pull back on the tensior and replce the belt. Noting the way it wraps in your manual or memory here.
15. Torque the water pump bolts now that the belt holds it in place.
16. Replace the under trays and the 2 small rubber plugs on the bell hpousing, Being very careful on torquing these sheet metal screws as noted above.
17. Lower the car, and re connect the negative battery terminal.
18. Start her up, making sure the belt is properly located on ALL pullies.
19. Snap the engine cover back into place.
20. DRIVE and enjoy.
Gentlemen: I did not do a ECU retune, and my G-tech showed a gain of 21 HP.
THIS IS A MUST MOD that actually gives you a return on investment by the but o-meter, and REAL WORLD. Hope it helps
See yeah
Oh yeah Total time, GOING SLOW 1 1/2 hours, including a beer.
Last edited by MRAMG1; 01-14-2008 at 07:24 AM.
01-14-2008, 10:08 AM
#2
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2003 C32 AMG, 2003 E39 M5
This is great info TY 
. I would like to do my own install and will use these directions. I will try to post pics with each step you listed when I get around to buying the pulleys and installing them. If anyone else has pics of the step by step install already that would be great.
I can not wait to do this mod.
. I would like to do my own install and will use these directions. I will try to post pics with each step you listed when I get around to buying the pulleys and installing them. If anyone else has pics of the step by step install already that would be great.I can not wait to do this mod.
Okay guys:
I installed my pulley, HE and phenolic spacers over the weekend, and just wanted to give some instructions for you:
1. You need a torque wrench, up to 160 ft/lbs, small sockets, and a LARGE extension bar/breaker bar. THATS it.
2. Remove the plastic cover from the front of the engine, the one on top of the supercharger, it just pops off from three tabs, PULL UP.
3. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
4. If you are changing the water pump pulley, break loose the 4 small bolts now, while the belt is till on. they are only torqued to about 35 ft/lbs.
5. Look at the belt wrapping, so you can remeber how to put it back, its in your manual so if you forget its not a problem.
6. Use a 3/8" drive and socket on the pully tensioner, its the one to the right of the crank pulley. Don't be afraids to pull hard, as you will need to botton it out to get the belt off. Good time to replace the belt if you have over 20,000 miles now.
7. I bought the balancer holder key from Konikatools from ebay. they have rasied their price because of the rush by us modders, I offered them $40, and they excepted my offer. They list it for $48-52, on ebay so send them an offer. Note: This tool ONLY works with the stock balancer, but is worth it, as you will see next.
8. You will need a 27mm, try to get a 6 point so you will not round off the bolt, I used a 3" extension on the socket.
9. Place the holder on the dampered, and wedge it against the lower rad support, this will hold it place while you break the dampered bolt. I used an old torque wrecnh, with a 4' piece of pipe on it to break loose the bolt. To losen it you want to go COUNTER clockwise. Woirking from the drivers side of the front fender, I estimate my stock bolt broke loose around 350 ft/lbs. DON'T BE AFRAID TO PUSH WITH ALL YOUR MIGHT. Using your legs like in a squat to push up, and I do mean PUSH UP HARD. This is why the above tool works GREAT here.
10. Remove the bolt, my dampered slide right off, NO puller required.
11. Jak the car up and remove the 10 small bolts, they are self tapping sheet metal screws so be VERY careful when putting them back in as I stripped two of them, that hold the plastic under tray on your car. You will need to remove the front piece and the rear plastic piece to get to the torque converter to hold it in place to torque your new pulley on.
12. There are 2 small rubber plugs directly under the bell housing remove them, they pull out. I used an old prybar that you can wedge into the torque convertors flex plat to hold it in place while tourging the new bolt.
12. Slide your new dmapered/over dirve pulley on. Use Blue locktite on a NEW bolt. While one person is under the car holding your prybar, torque the NEW bolt to 160 ft/lbs.
13. Replace the water pump pulley if you bought a new one now. Rember to use a little locktite here.
14. Use the 3/8" ratchet to pull back on the tensior and replce the belt. Noting the way it wraps in your manual or memory here.
15. Torque the water pump bolts now that the belt holds it in place.
16. Replace the under trays and the 2 small rubber plugs on the bell hpousing, Being very careful on torquing these sheet metal screws as noted above.
17. Lower the car, and re connect the negative battery terminal.
18. Start her up, making sure the belt is properly located on ALL pullies.
19. Snap the engine cover back into place.
20. DRIVE and enjoy.
Gentlemen: I did not do a ECU retune, and my G-tech showed a gain of 21 HP.
THIS IS A MUST MOD that actually gives you a return on investment by the but o-meter, and REAL WORLD. Hope it helps
See yeah
Oh yeah Total time, GOING SLOW 1 1/2 hours, including a beer.
I installed my pulley, HE and phenolic spacers over the weekend, and just wanted to give some instructions for you:
1. You need a torque wrench, up to 160 ft/lbs, small sockets, and a LARGE extension bar/breaker bar. THATS it.
2. Remove the plastic cover from the front of the engine, the one on top of the supercharger, it just pops off from three tabs, PULL UP.
3. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
4. If you are changing the water pump pulley, break loose the 4 small bolts now, while the belt is till on. they are only torqued to about 35 ft/lbs.
5. Look at the belt wrapping, so you can remeber how to put it back, its in your manual so if you forget its not a problem.
6. Use a 3/8" drive and socket on the pully tensioner, its the one to the right of the crank pulley. Don't be afraids to pull hard, as you will need to botton it out to get the belt off. Good time to replace the belt if you have over 20,000 miles now.
7. I bought the balancer holder key from Konikatools from ebay. they have rasied their price because of the rush by us modders, I offered them $40, and they excepted my offer. They list it for $48-52, on ebay so send them an offer. Note: This tool ONLY works with the stock balancer, but is worth it, as you will see next.
8. You will need a 27mm, try to get a 6 point so you will not round off the bolt, I used a 3" extension on the socket.
9. Place the holder on the dampered, and wedge it against the lower rad support, this will hold it place while you break the dampered bolt. I used an old torque wrecnh, with a 4' piece of pipe on it to break loose the bolt. To losen it you want to go COUNTER clockwise. Woirking from the drivers side of the front fender, I estimate my stock bolt broke loose around 350 ft/lbs. DON'T BE AFRAID TO PUSH WITH ALL YOUR MIGHT. Using your legs like in a squat to push up, and I do mean PUSH UP HARD. This is why the above tool works GREAT here.
10. Remove the bolt, my dampered slide right off, NO puller required.
11. Jak the car up and remove the 10 small bolts, they are self tapping sheet metal screws so be VERY careful when putting them back in as I stripped two of them, that hold the plastic under tray on your car. You will need to remove the front piece and the rear plastic piece to get to the torque converter to hold it in place to torque your new pulley on.
12. There are 2 small rubber plugs directly under the bell housing remove them, they pull out. I used an old prybar that you can wedge into the torque convertors flex plat to hold it in place while tourging the new bolt.
12. Slide your new dmapered/over dirve pulley on. Use Blue locktite on a NEW bolt. While one person is under the car holding your prybar, torque the NEW bolt to 160 ft/lbs.
13. Replace the water pump pulley if you bought a new one now. Rember to use a little locktite here.
14. Use the 3/8" ratchet to pull back on the tensior and replce the belt. Noting the way it wraps in your manual or memory here.
15. Torque the water pump bolts now that the belt holds it in place.
16. Replace the under trays and the 2 small rubber plugs on the bell hpousing, Being very careful on torquing these sheet metal screws as noted above.
17. Lower the car, and re connect the negative battery terminal.
18. Start her up, making sure the belt is properly located on ALL pullies.
19. Snap the engine cover back into place.
20. DRIVE and enjoy.
Gentlemen: I did not do a ECU retune, and my G-tech showed a gain of 21 HP.
THIS IS A MUST MOD that actually gives you a return on investment by the but o-meter, and REAL WORLD. Hope it helps
See yeah
Oh yeah Total time, GOING SLOW 1 1/2 hours, including a beer.
02-06-2008, 11:21 PM
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1992 Toyota Corolla, 1994 Chevy C1500, 2002 C32, 2012 Prius, 2013 Toyota Sienna
Phenolic Spacers
Excellent write up MRAMG1. I am soon going to be doing the same thing. What size pulley did you R&R? Also, I pretty much understand the HE R&R but how did you do the phenolic spacers ? Thanks
02-06-2008, 11:35 PM
#7
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One thing though - it may be very important. I thought the new crank pulley bolt should be torqued to ~160 ft/lbs and then an extra 90 degrees (1/4 turn)?
Maybe somebody else can chime in here? That difference in torque could be very important (there are a couple of threads on the E55 forum about this).
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02-06-2008, 11:49 PM
#8
Nice write-up MRAMG1!
One thing though - it may be very important. I thought the new crank pulley bolt should be torqued to ~160 ft/lbs and then an extra 90 degrees (1/4 turn)?
Maybe somebody else can chime in here? That difference in torque could be very important (there are a couple of threads on the E55 forum about this).
One thing though - it may be very important. I thought the new crank pulley bolt should be torqued to ~160 ft/lbs and then an extra 90 degrees (1/4 turn)?
Maybe somebody else can chime in here? That difference in torque could be very important (there are a couple of threads on the E55 forum about this).
02-09-2008, 10:00 PM
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1992 Toyota Corolla, 1994 Chevy C1500, 2002 C32, 2012 Prius, 2013 Toyota Sienna
Thanks MRAMG1 I used your instructions today w/o any problems. Your instructions were very helpful, but it did take me about 2.5 hrs.
02-09-2008, 11:55 PM
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02-13-2008, 06:47 PM
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02-16-2008, 06:56 PM
#14
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see yeah
PS: I will try to take one tomorrow and label it
02-16-2008, 07:26 PM
#15
i already have mine on. mine didnt come with a manual/picture. i bought it used with no manual/picture. in fact, i contacted evosport and the manual they sent me was not useful. just figured it out myself.
02-16-2008, 07:42 PM
#16
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Thanks for the idea.
See yeah
