Wheel Spacers on Stock C55 Rims?
04-09-2008, 01:42 AM
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C55 AMG
Wheel Spacers on Stock C55 Rims?
I would like to bring the stock rims on my c55 out a bit to give it a more aggressive stance. I was thinking a nice spacer on the rear wheels would do the trick but I am worried about bottoming out into the fenders. Does anyone know what size spacer I can get away with and which will achieve the look I'm going for?
Thanx!
Alex
Thanx!
Alex
04-09-2008, 03:48 AM
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04-10-2008, 01:06 AM
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Ok spacers are out then so lets talk tires. Thank you for the responses.
I did a little searching on here and found that people were saying 255 is about the widest you can go in the rear. How are you guys running drag radiss then? I think the smallest width Nitto makes is 285 for the 18in wheels. Nittos run a little small so will I be ok?
I did a little searching on here and found that people were saying 255 is about the widest you can go in the rear. How are you guys running drag radiss then? I think the smallest width Nitto makes is 285 for the 18in wheels. Nittos run a little small so will I be ok?
04-10-2008, 04:10 AM
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white and whiter
if spacers are bad...no one should buy Brabus, Lorinser, Carlsson, or BBS wheels then because they all run their own style spacer or adaptor as they like to call them for different fitment on certain style wheels.
spacers are bad only when you use generic spacers that isn't balanced or hubcentric that would cause vibration. proper bolts is very important as well.
as 1Lop2k5c said, try the H&R 10mm hubcentric spacer for the rear. it should do the trick perfectly.
on tires size you can run 265/35/18, but you would also want to run 235/35/18 on the front. it would keep both front and rear diameter as close as possible and only .2% difference than 235/35/19 and 265/30/19 overall diameter.
the only issue is that your stock rim is 18x8.5 although u can fit 265 on it it's not really recommended.
spacers are bad only when you use generic spacers that isn't balanced or hubcentric that would cause vibration. proper bolts is very important as well.
as 1Lop2k5c said, try the H&R 10mm hubcentric spacer for the rear. it should do the trick perfectly.
on tires size you can run 265/35/18, but you would also want to run 235/35/18 on the front. it would keep both front and rear diameter as close as possible and only .2% difference than 235/35/19 and 265/30/19 overall diameter.
the only issue is that your stock rim is 18x8.5 although u can fit 265 on it it's not really recommended.
Last edited by FrankW; 04-10-2008 at 04:13 AM.
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04-10-2008, 09:17 AM
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02 996 Turbo, 05 CLK55 AMG
+1 well done !
if spacers are bad...no one should buy Brabus, Lorinser, Carlsson, or BBS wheels then because they all run their own style spacer or adaptor as they like to call them for different fitment on certain style wheels.
spacers are bad only when you use generic spacers that isn't balanced or hubcentric that would cause vibration. proper bolts is very important as well.
as 1Lop2k5c said, try the H&R 10mm hubcentric spacer for the rear. it should do the trick perfectly.
on tires size you can run 265/35/18, but you would also want to run 235/35/18 on the front. it would keep both front and rear diameter as close as possible and only .2% difference than 235/35/19 and 265/30/19 overall diameter.
the only issue is that your stock rim is 18x8.5 although u can fit 265 on it it's not really recommended.
spacers are bad only when you use generic spacers that isn't balanced or hubcentric that would cause vibration. proper bolts is very important as well.
as 1Lop2k5c said, try the H&R 10mm hubcentric spacer for the rear. it should do the trick perfectly.
on tires size you can run 265/35/18, but you would also want to run 235/35/18 on the front. it would keep both front and rear diameter as close as possible and only .2% difference than 235/35/19 and 265/30/19 overall diameter.
the only issue is that your stock rim is 18x8.5 although u can fit 265 on it it's not really recommended.
04-10-2008, 09:17 PM
#9
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if spacers are bad...no one should buy Brabus, Lorinser, Carlsson, or BBS wheels then because they all run their own style spacer or adaptor as they like to call them for different fitment on certain style wheels.
spacers are bad only when you use generic spacers that isn't balanced or hubcentric that would cause vibration. proper bolts is very important as well.
as 1Lop2k5c said, try the H&R 10mm hubcentric spacer for the rear. it should do the trick perfectly.
on tires size you can run 265/35/18, but you would also want to run 235/35/18 on the front. it would keep both front and rear diameter as close as possible and only .2% difference than 235/35/19 and 265/30/19 overall diameter.
the only issue is that your stock rim is 18x8.5 although u can fit 265 on it it's not really recommended.
spacers are bad only when you use generic spacers that isn't balanced or hubcentric that would cause vibration. proper bolts is very important as well.
as 1Lop2k5c said, try the H&R 10mm hubcentric spacer for the rear. it should do the trick perfectly.
on tires size you can run 265/35/18, but you would also want to run 235/35/18 on the front. it would keep both front and rear diameter as close as possible and only .2% difference than 235/35/19 and 265/30/19 overall diameter.
the only issue is that your stock rim is 18x8.5 although u can fit 265 on it it's not really recommended.
There goes the engineer again. You can't tell me that spacers are good. I bet you don't run spacers on your car.
04-10-2008, 09:56 PM
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white and whiter
how wrong you are.i'm running 5mm BBS adapter/spacers up front for my 18x8 ET35 which makes the offset ET30. On the rear I have the 10mm from BBS makes the 18x9 ET38 offset to ET28. correct length bolts from BBS according to spacer mm.
I've ran spacers on my Axis, HRE, Carlsson, and now the BBS. Axis I used spacers because the front didn't clear the caliper, so I had to custom the centerbore to fit a Lorinser 7mm spacer. HRE 448R brushed finish I used spacers because the rear did not clear the calipers (f-ed up got the 3" lip instead of the 2.5"). Carlsson came with 12mm adapters for the front 19x8.5 ET40 and 5mm for the rear 19x10 ET40. Also gave the extra set of 12mm Carlsson spacer to Mikessw203 so he would have the proper offset for his Ultra Light.
I'm simply speaking from my experience of having had many set of wheels. If you have nothing except hostile comments I suggest you keep it to yourself. I'm not telling you spacers are good, but simply your general perception on spacers are not as correct as you were led to believe.
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Jeefnana (05-31-2023)
04-10-2008, 10:39 PM
#11
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There is no benefit to the forum from casting dispersions on others.
If you’ve a personal beef with another member, kindly take it to PM. TIA.
04-10-2008, 11:41 PM
#12
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avoid having to use spacers
04-10-2008, 11:53 PM
#13
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if spacers are bad...no one should buy Brabus, Lorinser, Carlsson, or BBS wheels then because they all run their own style spacer or adaptor as they like to call them for different fitment on certain style wheels.
spacers are bad only when you use generic spacers that isn't balanced or hubcentric that would cause vibration. proper bolts is very important as well.
as 1Lop2k5c said, try the H&R 10mm hubcentric spacer for the rear. it should do the trick perfectly.
on tires size you can run 265/35/18, but you would also want to run 235/35/18 on the front. it would keep both front and rear diameter as close as possible and only .2% difference than 235/35/19 and 265/30/19 overall diameter.
the only issue is that your stock rim is 18x8.5 although u can fit 265 on it it's not really recommended.
spacers are bad only when you use generic spacers that isn't balanced or hubcentric that would cause vibration. proper bolts is very important as well.
as 1Lop2k5c said, try the H&R 10mm hubcentric spacer for the rear. it should do the trick perfectly.
on tires size you can run 265/35/18, but you would also want to run 235/35/18 on the front. it would keep both front and rear diameter as close as possible and only .2% difference than 235/35/19 and 265/30/19 overall diameter.
the only issue is that your stock rim is 18x8.5 although u can fit 265 on it it's not really recommended.
heres a copy pasta from a tundra forum i read:
Originally Posted by DJ
You will never find wheel adapters or spacers on any vehicle I own.
The design of vehicle suspensions, and the matching of wheels to those suspensions, should be left to experts. The hairs go up on the back of my neck when I read about putting spacers or adapters between the wheels and the hubs JUST TO CHANGE THE APPEARANCE OF THE VEHICLE.
Here's a bit if insight into some of the effects of doing this:
A vehicle is not a "rigid body". It is flexible. As it rolls down the road, it flexes, and this includes the suspension components. I mean that the individual components of the suspension actually change their shape, and they change their positions and orientations relative to each other.
For example, the upper and lower control arms of the Tundra front suspensions pivot at their inboard ends. They pivot about bushings that are partly RUBBER.
Think about what happens to the control arms when you apply the brakes: 1) The forces generated try to rotate the spindle so that the upper ball joint is pushed forward and the lower ball joint is pushed rearward; 2) They push the tire, wheel, and spindle toward the rear, which pushes both ball joints toward the rear; and, 3) They try to rotate the tire, wheel, and spindle so the front of the tire points more outboard (i. e. because of the positive scrub radius, it tries to make total toe more negative), by putting an inward force on the end of the tie rod, thus pulling outward on both ball joints. Now, just what is the "net force" on a ball joint, and thus what is the "net change" in the orientation of the control arm to which it is attached?
If you space the wheel more outboard the vehicle, this DRASTICALLY increases the scrub radius, which is small to begin with. It thus DRASTICALLY increases the negative change in total toe that happens upon braking, especially hard braking. Do you want to GUESS what the effect is, just because you like how it LOOKS?
As I stated above, the vehicle flexes as it rolls down the road. In fact, total toe changes as it rolls depending on, among other factors, the speed of the vehicle. In a rear wheel drive vehicle like the Tundra, with rack-and-pinion steering mounted behind the front axles, total toe tends to become more negative as the speed increases. The specification for total toe is set such that the the "dynamic" total toe at a nominal speed (commonly about 55 mph) is zero. This prevents tire wear and increases stability, because the tire is not "scrubbing sideways" as it rolls down the road.
The increased scrub radius GREATLY affects the change in total toe due to speed. So, if you set the alignment of total toe dead on the factory spec, does that result in total toe being zero as you cruise down the road? Again, do you want to GUESS what the effect is, just because you like how it LOOKS?
How often have you seen or heard of a traffic accident which appears to have no reasonable cause? The driver just turned a corner or put on the brakes and the vehicle swapped ends? Next time it happens, look to see if the vehicle has stock wheels and tires on it.
I apologize for the rather strident tone of this response, but this subject is a raw nerve with me. I don't presume to tell people what they can and cannot do in modifying their own vehicles, but I point out that the accidents that result from modifications often have undeserving victims.
The design of vehicle suspensions, and the matching of wheels to those suspensions, should be left to experts. The hairs go up on the back of my neck when I read about putting spacers or adapters between the wheels and the hubs JUST TO CHANGE THE APPEARANCE OF THE VEHICLE.
Here's a bit if insight into some of the effects of doing this:
A vehicle is not a "rigid body". It is flexible. As it rolls down the road, it flexes, and this includes the suspension components. I mean that the individual components of the suspension actually change their shape, and they change their positions and orientations relative to each other.
For example, the upper and lower control arms of the Tundra front suspensions pivot at their inboard ends. They pivot about bushings that are partly RUBBER.
Think about what happens to the control arms when you apply the brakes: 1) The forces generated try to rotate the spindle so that the upper ball joint is pushed forward and the lower ball joint is pushed rearward; 2) They push the tire, wheel, and spindle toward the rear, which pushes both ball joints toward the rear; and, 3) They try to rotate the tire, wheel, and spindle so the front of the tire points more outboard (i. e. because of the positive scrub radius, it tries to make total toe more negative), by putting an inward force on the end of the tie rod, thus pulling outward on both ball joints. Now, just what is the "net force" on a ball joint, and thus what is the "net change" in the orientation of the control arm to which it is attached?
If you space the wheel more outboard the vehicle, this DRASTICALLY increases the scrub radius, which is small to begin with. It thus DRASTICALLY increases the negative change in total toe that happens upon braking, especially hard braking. Do you want to GUESS what the effect is, just because you like how it LOOKS?
As I stated above, the vehicle flexes as it rolls down the road. In fact, total toe changes as it rolls depending on, among other factors, the speed of the vehicle. In a rear wheel drive vehicle like the Tundra, with rack-and-pinion steering mounted behind the front axles, total toe tends to become more negative as the speed increases. The specification for total toe is set such that the the "dynamic" total toe at a nominal speed (commonly about 55 mph) is zero. This prevents tire wear and increases stability, because the tire is not "scrubbing sideways" as it rolls down the road.
The increased scrub radius GREATLY affects the change in total toe due to speed. So, if you set the alignment of total toe dead on the factory spec, does that result in total toe being zero as you cruise down the road? Again, do you want to GUESS what the effect is, just because you like how it LOOKS?
How often have you seen or heard of a traffic accident which appears to have no reasonable cause? The driver just turned a corner or put on the brakes and the vehicle swapped ends? Next time it happens, look to see if the vehicle has stock wheels and tires on it.
I apologize for the rather strident tone of this response, but this subject is a raw nerve with me. I don't presume to tell people what they can and cannot do in modifying their own vehicles, but I point out that the accidents that result from modifications often have undeserving victims.
Last edited by crazeazn; 04-10-2008 at 11:57 PM.
04-11-2008, 12:03 AM
#14
1. that gives him the authority to disseminate other opinions.
2. make other posters (myself included)feel inches tall,
3.and then reply that it was not his intention to correct others?
Maybe he does offer a wealth of knowledge and I myself would concur that is probably more than most C Class owners. But it is the manner he chooses to debate issues that bothers some. FrankW's opening sentence "Why does Brabus, Carlsson etc..." doesn't give the impression of cockiness? I mean why not start off "Hey I disagree, and in my experience there are numerous manufacturers (blah,Blah)...... To me you can prove your point without sounding like a high school debate, or worse fox news.
Sure we have to follow board etiquette, but C55asleep is not alone in this thread. I myself like the saying "Walk softly and carry a big stick"
Now back to Hockey Playoffs
04-11-2008, 12:20 AM
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Fair enough, guys. Point(s) understood.
folex187 seems to have brought to the fore some of the simmering pessimism among the faithful.
folex187 seems to have brought to the fore some of the simmering pessimism among the faithful.
04-11-2008, 01:26 AM
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Thanx for the info guys. I'm thinking I will try the H&R spacers until I can decide on which drag radial to run during the summer. That brings me to my next question on this topic- if I do run a wider tire (say 255-265) will I still be able to run a spacer or will I be better off going back to the stock setup?
Again thank you for the info,
Alex
Again thank you for the info,
Alex
04-11-2008, 01:36 AM
#17
Super Member
Thanx for the info guys. I'm thinking I will try the H&R spacers until I can decide on which drag radial to run during the summer. That brings me to my next question on this topic- if I do run a wider tire (say 255-265) will I still be able to run a spacer or will I be better off going back to the stock setup?
Again thank you for the info,
Alex
Again thank you for the info,
Alex
04-11-2008, 01:48 AM
#18
I use Replica TSW lookalikes for my Winter setup and they require a spacer each and have yet have not had an issue with them. I have 240/45/R17 Nitto 555Rs for drag racing and will use the winter setup rims to mount them on.
04-11-2008, 02:04 AM
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04-11-2008, 02:19 AM
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Not taking any sides here but I have to side with Frank on this one regarding spacers.
There was no way I was going to fit my BBS LM's on my car without spacers but I, too, didn't want to run them. The guys at BBS kept telling me it was okay with nothing to worry about. I finally gave in and did it. Almost three years later they're still fine with no regrets.
Just get a set of good quality spacers that are hubcentric such as the H&R's suggested with bolts to compensate for the thickness.
I bought two sets of BBS spacers at $80/each, one set (the 10mm) I sold to Frank. They were both wheel specific and very high quality as you can expect from a reputable company. There are no issues with vibration or the common symptoms of going with a generic one.
Frank wasn't being snobby about the names of companies but it was just an example of where spacers are commonly used with no issues.
There was no way I was going to fit my BBS LM's on my car without spacers but I, too, didn't want to run them. The guys at BBS kept telling me it was okay with nothing to worry about. I finally gave in and did it. Almost three years later they're still fine with no regrets.
Just get a set of good quality spacers that are hubcentric such as the H&R's suggested with bolts to compensate for the thickness.
I bought two sets of BBS spacers at $80/each, one set (the 10mm) I sold to Frank. They were both wheel specific and very high quality as you can expect from a reputable company. There are no issues with vibration or the common symptoms of going with a generic one.
Frank wasn't being snobby about the names of companies but it was just an example of where spacers are commonly used with no issues.
04-11-2008, 03:20 AM
#21
Super Member
With the 19"s I have 235. On the stock wheels I think its 225?
Ling I understand your point but its just the way people go about saying things. If I was in the OP shoes I would not add spacers to factory wheels imho. Only if it was in your case like you described.
Ling I understand your point but its just the way people go about saying things. If I was in the OP shoes I would not add spacers to factory wheels imho. Only if it was in your case like you described.
04-11-2008, 03:25 AM
#22
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are your HREs running spacers/adaptors?
04-11-2008, 03:32 AM
#23
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04-11-2008, 03:35 AM
#24
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