possible cps problem
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: england
c32
possible cps problem
hi all
i have a 02 c32
starts fine when cold
after a little run and stopping sometimes do,s not start
turns over fine but no attempt at firing
will attempt too fire if ether is put up the intake
i,ve read other threads and loads ahve had problems with the cps which sounds similar too this problem .
where is the cps and how easy is it too change
i have a 02 c32
starts fine when cold
after a little run and stopping sometimes do,s not start
turns over fine but no attempt at firing
will attempt too fire if ether is put up the intake
i,ve read other threads and loads ahve had problems with the cps which sounds similar too this problem .
where is the cps and how easy is it too change
Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 228
Likes: 1
From: Los Angeles, CA
07' E350, 71' DATSUN 510
Sounds like cps to me, not easy to change on a c32 due to the charge air tubes.
The ether helps the engine start to fire because with a bad crank sensor the spark is still supplied, but the fuel pump will not run without a crank signal.
Charge air tube on the left bank is easy to remove and will make the job much easier.
The ether helps the engine start to fire because with a bad crank sensor the spark is still supplied, but the fuel pump will not run without a crank signal.
Charge air tube on the left bank is easy to remove and will make the job much easier.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,948
Likes: 3
From: Houston, TX
C32/C55 AMG
My CPS just went out as well. I think the part ranges from $80-120 depending where you go. The sensor will warm up and then your car will turn off. You need to wait any where from 15 minutes to an hour to start the car up and drive. So make plans to make emergency stops when you plan on going some where with the car in that situation.
I'm going to attempt to fix mine as well. These are the instructions that I found:
I've posted pics in the past, but yest, it's where the engine meets the tranny on the drives side at about 10 o'clock position if the flywheel is a clock. I't just one small bolt, unplug sensor, remove bolt, pull the sensor out, put new one in, tighen bolt, re-connect sensor, reset any OBD2 codes.
I'll try to document it with pics so that every one can do it. I'm assuming this is a pretty common problem. We should make this thread part of the faq thread or just make a new thread with the cps problem because of how common it is.
If any one else has better instructions on how to replace the cps, please post them up. Pics would be great also.
I'm going to attempt to fix mine as well. These are the instructions that I found:
I've posted pics in the past, but yest, it's where the engine meets the tranny on the drives side at about 10 o'clock position if the flywheel is a clock. I't just one small bolt, unplug sensor, remove bolt, pull the sensor out, put new one in, tighen bolt, re-connect sensor, reset any OBD2 codes.
I'll try to document it with pics so that every one can do it. I'm assuming this is a pretty common problem. We should make this thread part of the faq thread or just make a new thread with the cps problem because of how common it is.
If any one else has better instructions on how to replace the cps, please post them up. Pics would be great also.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 2
From: sf
Merc power
ok
My just went out 3 days ago, here is a picture how you can get to it. #5-11 is the part.
http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp...SGR=075&SGN=04
here is the site for the parts its about 81.69 $
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/gro...nition%20Parts
you will need about 2-6 hours depends on your experience with cars installs, CPS -c32 located between belt housing of the tranny and engine, cover by 3 coolant lines. you will need to remove your drive side AIR BOX, in my case my CPS was expanded from the heat, so it got stuck in the belt housing. took me 6 hours to get it out.....
make sure you dont drive your car over night before starting it HELPS!!!
Problem: Faulty Crank Position Sensor
Location: on the 2002-2004 C32 the sensor is located on on the bell housing (between transmission and engine area) on the driver side. The sensor is burried below several breather near fire wall, vaccume, and coolant lines. It was very diffficult to see without removing the air filter/intake components. Use a mirror and good light. It is difficult to reach so you'll need the right tools or skinny arms!!! - No calibration or alignment of the sensor is needed
E8 socket and a flexible extension deep socket.
12mm extension
1/4 inch wrench
good luck.
http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp...SGR=075&SGN=04
here is the site for the parts its about 81.69 $
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/gro...nition%20Parts
you will need about 2-6 hours depends on your experience with cars installs, CPS -c32 located between belt housing of the tranny and engine, cover by 3 coolant lines. you will need to remove your drive side AIR BOX, in my case my CPS was expanded from the heat, so it got stuck in the belt housing. took me 6 hours to get it out.....
make sure you dont drive your car over night before starting it HELPS!!!Problem: Faulty Crank Position Sensor
Location: on the 2002-2004 C32 the sensor is located on on the bell housing (between transmission and engine area) on the driver side. The sensor is burried below several breather near fire wall, vaccume, and coolant lines. It was very diffficult to see without removing the air filter/intake components. Use a mirror and good light. It is difficult to reach so you'll need the right tools or skinny arms!!! - No calibration or alignment of the sensor is needed
E8 socket and a flexible extension deep socket.
12mm extension
1/4 inch wrench
good luck.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 2
From: sf
Merc power
i found another website sells it for 56 dollars FAWK.......
I paid 127 ish from local dealer no waiting time...
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...ition%20Sensor
I paid 127 ish from local dealer no waiting time...
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...ition%20Sensor
Last edited by 1qikctr; May 15, 2008 at 11:37 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,948
Likes: 3
From: Houston, TX
C32/C55 AMG
This was the most pain in the *** repair job I've had to under take on a car. There was almost no room what so ever to get your hand on the sensor much less get a tool on the bolt.
I took off the driver's side airbox and disconnected a bracket that held a hose and a bundle of wires. I finally was able to push them to the side enough to slip my hand right on to the sensor. The plug is held on by a clip and must be unclipped and pulled out. That was difficult because there is no room to pull on the clip much less unclip it.
You are definitely going to need a flexible extension for you socket wrench. The sensor is at such an angle the you will not be able to fit a straight extension and the ratchet on the bolt. Get a couple of extensions and then use the flexible extension. Once you get the bolt out be careful not to drop it. I removed the panels on the bottom of the engine to see if I could get to the sensor from the bottom, but I was not able to do much or even see the sensor. Taking off the bottom panels was useful because I was able to retrieve the bolt when I did drop it.
I spent about 4 hours trying to get to to the sensor, but it wasn't until I removed the bracket that held a tube and a bundle of wires, was I able to get to the sensor. The flexible extension allowed me to actually get to the bolt. The torx e8 socket will seem like it will not fit at first, so I slipped it on with my hand and made sure that it was on. Then I put on a small straight extension and then I proceeded to put the flexible extension, then you still need one more extension to attach to the flexible extension so that you're high enough to use your ratchet. I was able to do the whole thing by myself in less than an hour in the dark after I figured out how to get to the sensor.
When taking out the sensor, at first it seems stuck and difficult to take out. Turn it side to side and try sliding it out. You should be able to grab it from the bottom and just slip it right out. When you go to put the new sensor in, just slide it back in, but try to make sure that you line up the hole with where the bolt screws in. The reason I was able to do it in the dark is because you can't see any thing in the first place and I did every thing by the way it felt. So it just take time and patience and if you have slender hands, it will make the job that much easier. My hands are bruised and sore, but I managed to save myself a couple of hundred dollars.
I found the part at a place close to my home and it ran me about $98. I could only find the torx e8 socket in a set and that ran me about $24. The flexible extension ran me about $8. So the total price of the job was about $130.
I took off the driver's side airbox and disconnected a bracket that held a hose and a bundle of wires. I finally was able to push them to the side enough to slip my hand right on to the sensor. The plug is held on by a clip and must be unclipped and pulled out. That was difficult because there is no room to pull on the clip much less unclip it.
You are definitely going to need a flexible extension for you socket wrench. The sensor is at such an angle the you will not be able to fit a straight extension and the ratchet on the bolt. Get a couple of extensions and then use the flexible extension. Once you get the bolt out be careful not to drop it. I removed the panels on the bottom of the engine to see if I could get to the sensor from the bottom, but I was not able to do much or even see the sensor. Taking off the bottom panels was useful because I was able to retrieve the bolt when I did drop it.
I spent about 4 hours trying to get to to the sensor, but it wasn't until I removed the bracket that held a tube and a bundle of wires, was I able to get to the sensor. The flexible extension allowed me to actually get to the bolt. The torx e8 socket will seem like it will not fit at first, so I slipped it on with my hand and made sure that it was on. Then I put on a small straight extension and then I proceeded to put the flexible extension, then you still need one more extension to attach to the flexible extension so that you're high enough to use your ratchet. I was able to do the whole thing by myself in less than an hour in the dark after I figured out how to get to the sensor.
When taking out the sensor, at first it seems stuck and difficult to take out. Turn it side to side and try sliding it out. You should be able to grab it from the bottom and just slip it right out. When you go to put the new sensor in, just slide it back in, but try to make sure that you line up the hole with where the bolt screws in. The reason I was able to do it in the dark is because you can't see any thing in the first place and I did every thing by the way it felt. So it just take time and patience and if you have slender hands, it will make the job that much easier. My hands are bruised and sore, but I managed to save myself a couple of hundred dollars.
I found the part at a place close to my home and it ran me about $98. I could only find the torx e8 socket in a set and that ran me about $24. The flexible extension ran me about $8. So the total price of the job was about $130.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 2
From: sf
Merc power
This was the most pain in the *** repair job I've had to under take on a car. There was almost no room what so ever to get your hand on the sensor much less get a tool on the bolt.
I took off the driver's side airbox and disconnected a bracket that held a hose and a bundle of wires. I finally was able to push them to the side enough to slip my hand right on to the sensor. The plug is held on by a clip and must be unclipped and pulled out. That was difficult because there is no room to pull on the clip much less unclip it.
You are definitely going to need a flexible extension for you socket wrench. The sensor is at such an angle the you will not be able to fit a straight extension and the ratchet on the bolt. Get a couple of extensions and then use the flexible extension. Once you get the bolt out be careful not to drop it. I removed the panels on the bottom of the engine to see if I could get to the sensor from the bottom, but I was not able to do much or even see the sensor. Taking off the bottom panels was useful because I was able to retrieve the bolt when I did drop it.
I spent about 4 hours trying to get to to the sensor, but it wasn't until I removed the bracket that held a tube and a bundle of wires, was I able to get to the sensor. The flexible extension allowed me to actually get to the bolt. The torx e8 socket will seem like it will not fit at first, so I slipped it on with my hand and made sure that it was on. Then I put on a small straight extension and then I proceeded to put the flexible extension, then you still need one more extension to attach to the flexible extension so that you're high enough to use your ratchet. I was able to do the whole thing by myself in less than an hour in the dark after I figured out how to get to the sensor.
When taking out the sensor, at first it seems stuck and difficult to take out. Turn it side to side and try sliding it out. You should be able to grab it from the bottom and just slip it right out. When you go to put the new sensor in, just slide it back in, but try to make sure that you line up the hole with where the bolt screws in. The reason I was able to do it in the dark is because you can't see any thing in the first place and I did every thing by the way it felt. So it just take time and patience and if you have slender hands, it will make the job that much easier. My hands are bruised and sore, but I managed to save myself a couple of hundred dollars.
I found the part at a place close to my home and it ran me about $98. I could only find the torx e8 socket in a set and that ran me about $24. The flexible extension ran me about $8. So the total price of the job was about $130.
I took off the driver's side airbox and disconnected a bracket that held a hose and a bundle of wires. I finally was able to push them to the side enough to slip my hand right on to the sensor. The plug is held on by a clip and must be unclipped and pulled out. That was difficult because there is no room to pull on the clip much less unclip it.
You are definitely going to need a flexible extension for you socket wrench. The sensor is at such an angle the you will not be able to fit a straight extension and the ratchet on the bolt. Get a couple of extensions and then use the flexible extension. Once you get the bolt out be careful not to drop it. I removed the panels on the bottom of the engine to see if I could get to the sensor from the bottom, but I was not able to do much or even see the sensor. Taking off the bottom panels was useful because I was able to retrieve the bolt when I did drop it.
I spent about 4 hours trying to get to to the sensor, but it wasn't until I removed the bracket that held a tube and a bundle of wires, was I able to get to the sensor. The flexible extension allowed me to actually get to the bolt. The torx e8 socket will seem like it will not fit at first, so I slipped it on with my hand and made sure that it was on. Then I put on a small straight extension and then I proceeded to put the flexible extension, then you still need one more extension to attach to the flexible extension so that you're high enough to use your ratchet. I was able to do the whole thing by myself in less than an hour in the dark after I figured out how to get to the sensor.
When taking out the sensor, at first it seems stuck and difficult to take out. Turn it side to side and try sliding it out. You should be able to grab it from the bottom and just slip it right out. When you go to put the new sensor in, just slide it back in, but try to make sure that you line up the hole with where the bolt screws in. The reason I was able to do it in the dark is because you can't see any thing in the first place and I did every thing by the way it felt. So it just take time and patience and if you have slender hands, it will make the job that much easier. My hands are bruised and sore, but I managed to save myself a couple of hundred dollars.
I found the part at a place close to my home and it ran me about $98. I could only find the torx e8 socket in a set and that ran me about $24. The flexible extension ran me about $8. So the total price of the job was about $130.
, I feel your pain
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 2
From: sf
Merc power
