Should I try Royal Purple oil???
08-19-2008, 01:47 PM
#51
MBWorld Fanatic!
Watched the "Royal Purple Challenge" performed right in front of me ON A DYNO. Guy from Katech (GM modding place in Detroit) was on with a Caddy putting down 423whp. That was before Royal purple, they swapped out the oil and dyno'd it.......car lost 1hp.
After sitting around wondering what the heck happened we came to the conclusion that swapping synthetic to RP gains near nothing while I bet going from regular oil to Royal Purple gives the gains they brag about.
Pretty cool watching it happen right in front of you.
I would say no to on going Mobil 1 to RP.
After sitting around wondering what the heck happened we came to the conclusion that swapping synthetic to RP gains near nothing while I bet going from regular oil to Royal Purple gives the gains they brag about.
Pretty cool watching it happen right in front of you.
I would say no to on going Mobil 1 to RP.
Thanks for the info Jakpro1
See yeah
08-24-2008, 04:52 PM
#52
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Can you post a STP part number please...I went to Autozone and they checked but it didn't say Mann at all on filter just numbers...the STP part number I was told based on their computer search is STP S8481($11.29)..
08-24-2008, 04:54 PM
#53
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
For anyone who didn't know there is a oil drain plug at very rear of oil pan on the C32 just its highly recommended to change the drain plug seal....
08-24-2008, 06:54 PM
#54
Super Moderator
photo credit germanfilters.com
Rationale for specifying a Mann+Hummel synthetic oil filter.
My local parts man has ‘em for >$14.
08-25-2008, 11:12 AM
#55
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
If it looks like this, it's the proper filter for our M112/113’s FSS:
photo credit germanfilters.com
Rationale for specifying a Mann+Hummel synthetic oil filter.
My local parts man has ‘em for >$14.
photo credit germanfilters.com
Rationale for specifying a Mann+Hummel synthetic oil filter.
My local parts man has ‘em for >$14.
08-25-2008, 01:17 PM
#56
Super Moderator Alumni
Well I don't know but I ordered some from autopartswarehouse.com but honestly don't recall if they are Mann filters...I just found out that oempartsdirect.com is the same as autopartswarehouse...slick huh? Anyways already ordered so will have to live with it rather its a Mann filter or not but will post if it is a Mann filter as soon as I get it.
As you may recall, Duval gave up that site some time ago. It looks like autoparts wants to pick up the MBWorld customers (because, as you know, there are no real customers outside of MBW) that did not know about the closure by re-directing to their home page and different e-commerce engine.
Last edited by ScottW911; 08-25-2008 at 04:10 PM.
08-26-2008, 01:48 PM
#57
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W203 C32 AMG, W124 E300D
Kragen has a sale on Bosch filters ($2.97 with coupon) so i bought 4 of them for the C32 and 4 for my motorcycles.
08-26-2008, 04:31 PM
#58
Watched the "Royal Purple Challenge" performed right in front of me ON A DYNO. Guy from Katech (GM modding place in Detroit) was on with a Caddy putting down 423whp. That was before Royal purple, they swapped out the oil and dyno'd it.......car lost 1hp.
After sitting around wondering what the heck happened we came to the conclusion that swapping synthetic to RP gains near nothing while I bet going from regular oil to Royal Purple gives the gains they brag about.
Pretty cool watching it happen right in front of you.
I would say no to on going Mobil 1 to RP.
After sitting around wondering what the heck happened we came to the conclusion that swapping synthetic to RP gains near nothing while I bet going from regular oil to Royal Purple gives the gains they brag about.
Pretty cool watching it happen right in front of you.
I would say no to on going Mobil 1 to RP.
Probably, 6 to one, half dozen to another!!!
08-26-2008, 04:40 PM
#59
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
oops sorry for not responding in time. But that is the correct part number, youll just have to look at the filter itself and see if it reads 'MANN Filter' and the filter should look like the filter splinter posted.
Kragen has a sale on Bosch filters ($2.97 with coupon) so i bought 4 of them for the C32 and 4 for my motorcycles.
Kragen has a sale on Bosch filters ($2.97 with coupon) so i bought 4 of them for the C32 and 4 for my motorcycles.
08-26-2008, 04:41 PM
#60
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
If it looks like this, it's the proper filter for our M112/113’s FSS:
photo credit germanfilters.com
Rationale for specifying a Mann+Hummel synthetic oil filter.
My local parts man has ‘em for >$14.
photo credit germanfilters.com
Rationale for specifying a Mann+Hummel synthetic oil filter.
My local parts man has ‘em for >$14.
08-26-2008, 05:06 PM
#61
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C32 AMG
I long ago gave up any hope of fully UNDERSTANDING motor oil because there is a general lack of information from manufacturers (of oil and cars) and consumers are inflexibly locked onto concepts that just aren't true. I think we do need to establish the facts that we do know:
1> Shame on the car makers for being so vague. Your manual will point you to the approved formula code, but often won't identify the actual oil; and you dealer will often have NO CLUE what the manufacturer is recommending. Dealers will often dump cheap bulk oil into your car and charge you $7 quart. You can't even find good information on manufacturer web sites. Auto parts stores can't possibly stock enough variety to meet every MB, VW, BMW, Volvo and other standard. And I have a sneaking suspicion that there are plenty of good motor oils that do not meet the conflicting oil standards.
2> You could use nothing but Sears 10W40 in our engines, and they would likely run fine for 150,000 miles. So the fact that you use Xxxx oil and have had no problems means nothing.
3> When you say you use Mobil 1, you have only identified the logo on the bottle that contained the oil you use. The Mobil 1 label is used on a HUGE variety of oils, most of which are not recommended for our cars.
4> The only way to distinguish in the marketplace between various Mobil 1 products is by viscosity range -- and that's a DISASTER because the difference in the product formula really has very little to do with the viscosity range. Spend 1/2 hour reading some of the literature on oil formulation, and you realize that viscosity range is one of many factors that determine the oil's capabilities. It's a shame that the oil makers decided to use viscosity range to distinguish between product lines. In some cases, it can be confusing and deceptive -- such as two bottles with the same viscosity range but different additive packages.
So..... While under warranty, I use oil that meets the manufacturer's standard just to avoid warranty hassles. After that, I've been known to stray -- but always with a known brand, synthetic, in the recommended viscosity range -- and I change oil at 5,000 miles.
1> Shame on the car makers for being so vague. Your manual will point you to the approved formula code, but often won't identify the actual oil; and you dealer will often have NO CLUE what the manufacturer is recommending. Dealers will often dump cheap bulk oil into your car and charge you $7 quart. You can't even find good information on manufacturer web sites. Auto parts stores can't possibly stock enough variety to meet every MB, VW, BMW, Volvo and other standard. And I have a sneaking suspicion that there are plenty of good motor oils that do not meet the conflicting oil standards.
2> You could use nothing but Sears 10W40 in our engines, and they would likely run fine for 150,000 miles. So the fact that you use Xxxx oil and have had no problems means nothing.
3> When you say you use Mobil 1, you have only identified the logo on the bottle that contained the oil you use. The Mobil 1 label is used on a HUGE variety of oils, most of which are not recommended for our cars.
4> The only way to distinguish in the marketplace between various Mobil 1 products is by viscosity range -- and that's a DISASTER because the difference in the product formula really has very little to do with the viscosity range. Spend 1/2 hour reading some of the literature on oil formulation, and you realize that viscosity range is one of many factors that determine the oil's capabilities. It's a shame that the oil makers decided to use viscosity range to distinguish between product lines. In some cases, it can be confusing and deceptive -- such as two bottles with the same viscosity range but different additive packages.
So..... While under warranty, I use oil that meets the manufacturer's standard just to avoid warranty hassles. After that, I've been known to stray -- but always with a known brand, synthetic, in the recommended viscosity range -- and I change oil at 5,000 miles.
08-26-2008, 05:19 PM
#62
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
I long ago gave up any hope of fully UNDERSTANDING motor oil because there is a general lack of information from manufacturers (of oil and cars) and consumers are inflexibly locked onto concepts that just aren't true. I think we do need to establish the facts that we do know:
1> Shame on the car makers for being so vague. Your manual will point you to the approved formula code, but often won't identify the actual oil; and you dealer will often have NO CLUE what the manufacturer is recommending. Dealers will often dump cheap bulk oil into your car and charge you $7 quart. You can't even find good information on manufacturer web sites. Auto parts stores can't possibly stock enough variety to meet every MB, VW, BMW, Volvo and other standard. And I have a sneaking suspicion that there are plenty of good motor oils that do not meet the conflicting oil standards.
2> You could use nothing but Sears 10W40 in our engines, and they would likely run fine for 150,000 miles. So the fact that you use Xxxx oil and have had no problems means nothing.
3> When you say you use Mobil 1, you have only identified the logo on the bottle that contained the oil you use. The Mobil 1 label is used on a HUGE variety of oils, most of which are not recommended for our cars.
4> The only way to distinguish in the marketplace between various Mobil 1 products is by viscosity range -- and that's a DISASTER because the difference in the product formula really has very little to do with the viscosity range. Spend 1/2 hour reading some of the literature on oil formulation, and you realize that viscosity range is one of many factors that determine the oil's capabilities. It's a shame that the oil makers decided to use viscosity range to distinguish between product lines. In some cases, it can be confusing and deceptive -- such as two bottles with the same viscosity range but different additive packages.
So..... While under warranty, I use oil that meets the manufacturer's standard just to avoid warranty hassles. After that, I've been known to stray -- but always with a known brand, synthetic, in the recommended viscosity range -- and I change oil at 5,000 miles.
1> Shame on the car makers for being so vague. Your manual will point you to the approved formula code, but often won't identify the actual oil; and you dealer will often have NO CLUE what the manufacturer is recommending. Dealers will often dump cheap bulk oil into your car and charge you $7 quart. You can't even find good information on manufacturer web sites. Auto parts stores can't possibly stock enough variety to meet every MB, VW, BMW, Volvo and other standard. And I have a sneaking suspicion that there are plenty of good motor oils that do not meet the conflicting oil standards.
2> You could use nothing but Sears 10W40 in our engines, and they would likely run fine for 150,000 miles. So the fact that you use Xxxx oil and have had no problems means nothing.
3> When you say you use Mobil 1, you have only identified the logo on the bottle that contained the oil you use. The Mobil 1 label is used on a HUGE variety of oils, most of which are not recommended for our cars.
4> The only way to distinguish in the marketplace between various Mobil 1 products is by viscosity range -- and that's a DISASTER because the difference in the product formula really has very little to do with the viscosity range. Spend 1/2 hour reading some of the literature on oil formulation, and you realize that viscosity range is one of many factors that determine the oil's capabilities. It's a shame that the oil makers decided to use viscosity range to distinguish between product lines. In some cases, it can be confusing and deceptive -- such as two bottles with the same viscosity range but different additive packages.
So..... While under warranty, I use oil that meets the manufacturer's standard just to avoid warranty hassles. After that, I've been known to stray -- but always with a known brand, synthetic, in the recommended viscosity range -- and I change oil at 5,000 miles.
08-29-2008, 04:28 PM
#63
Super Member
As a rule I stick strictly to what the manufacturer recommends while on warranty also. But I noticed that the dealer used M1 5W-40 on my recent B service. Last time I looked only 0W-40 was approved. Has MB changed their recommendations?
