hooleyboy

GOT MY CAR BACK!!! honestly its running so good. their is gobbs of power. It has never felt better that i can remember This explains alot with the faulty install. 1/4 mile times were down along with trap speed and it all points to the bad install killing the power a bit. I still do believe in the dyno run results. I just dont think the power lasted as the pulley could have slipped anytime after that. All I know is I'm as happy as teenager with a **** flick. just dodged a major bullet.

S5LorinserF1

so did AMS send you a new pulley??


Did you put in your Orginal MB pulley back in or the New AMS pulley?



and who installed the pulley back on your car? the dealership??


how much did it cost?

S5LorinserF1

just found my stock mb pulley today.


All i can say after comparing it to the AMS pulley is that our MB pulley looks like shiit compared to the ams one.


Also the ams pulley feels Heavier not lighter then our stock crankshaft pulley?

any of you guys with the ams pulley realize what im talking about.


i almost feel like not taking out the AMS one since my stock mb one is semi rusted.

HOOLEYBOY what do you think about this?

are you gonna put the ams one back in when you get the new one.

cruzinquick

So Hooleyboy,

We'll see you at the track on Friday? I'll be there. See if Calimax wants to come. Should be a good trophy night.

hooleyboy

The AMS pulley is deff. much lighter than the OEM one. AMD weight is just under 3lbs and the stock one is just over 6lbs. If the AMS pulley is on there and its working fine than your good to go. But if I have learned anything in this mess no matter what aftermarket pulley you put on your car you should always check it to be safe. This can help avoid any major damage from say a faulty install and so on. The think is I dont know how chewed up my key notch is on my crankshaft But i was told that it "should" hold up for the life of the car and the techs and shop foreman felt very confident that i should have no after affects.

hooleyboy

Calimax has to get his heat exchanger worked out im sure before he will want to hit the strip. I on the other hand Just want to give it some time to know that this fix is solid and make sure i got some extra seat time. you know get some confidence back so i know my car wont **** the bed when i'm at the track. What really sparked the idea of my car loosing power was I raced a 2002ish Mustang that was mostly stock im sure and it took me a bit to walk away from him. I'm not as fast as you for sure as you kick my a$$ all over the strip, but i can mosdef lay waste to a stock mustang. Thats what really got me inspecting the motor. I think Im going to wait fro some cooler air as its coming soon. I noticed last time i was there my trap speed was down to 103mph but still running 13.5's I just thought the slow overall times and speed was from the heat, Maybe my CP was failing then from the bad install causing my trap speeds to be slower. I will be back in full force soon, plus i will need you ahead of me to brake up the wind resistance so i can bust into the 12's!

jywang

Congrats on getting your car back together. Do you know how long your car was running with the wobbly crank pulley?

Between my 1st and 2nd idle pulley failure, I did have a chance to look at my AMS crank pulley for a moment and it looked perfectly aligned. I always thought the wobbling wouldn't be visible to the eye and had to be felt or seen with timing gun.

I still haven't gotten my car back from the dealer after the second failure and I still haven't been told the true cause of the idle pulley failure. However, the dealer has told me today that they are willing to cover the second tow and idle pulley repair under warranty as well as putting my stock pulley back on.

But, they have asked me to cover the replacement of all the other pulleys at a cost of just over $2600 because of the plastic and rubber debris from the melted idle pulley. The reason the cost is so high is because the ac compressor and power steering pulley can't be purchased separately and have to be replaced. I haven't tried to argue why they won't cover it yet because I have mechanical breakdown insurance with Geico so now I've submitted this claim to them for review.

I'm not sure what to expect but since the car is still under the warranty period, I'm sure Geico is going to ask why MB isn't covering it and the whole can of worms is going to come out.

In the end, the question is whether or not anyone can prove or disprove that my idle pulley failed because of the aftermarket crank pulley. If it didn't, then MB really should be paying for everything under warranty. If it did, I don't know if Geico policy will pay or whether I will.

The main reason the dealer wants to replace the other pulleys is they don't want to guarantee the problem is resolved without replacing the other pulleys. So, if I don't replace them, they won't cover future failures. Granted my car has almost 47K miles so my remaining warranty is limited, but I want a piece of mind also.

Any recommendations?

pshek

The installer f'd pretty bad. Looks like he didn't even put the pulley on with the keyway in the correct place on the crankshaft. I bet the pulley wasn't seated completely on the crankshaft. He should have known that it should not wobble like that at all if installed correctly. Pulley runouts have to be within a certain tolerable level, otherwise it would put too much stress on the crankshaft bearings. I hope you didn't drive the car much with the pulley on like that.

pshek

The physical appearance of the pulley doesn't matter. As long as the pulley you have installed has a good runout and is balanced correctly, so as to put minimal stress on the crankshaft bearings. If your crankshaft bearings go out, then you better start saving money now. Labor to change crankshaft bearings is $$$$$$$$$$$$$$.

hooleyboy

On a C55 i was told to if this fix they did, did not work I was looking at about 30+ hours of labor to remove the heads and timing chain bla bla bla and that would have been huge money. IF the crank shaft was needed to be replaced. it cost $3500 for a C55 crankshaft not including all the seals and other parts that go along with it. To do a crank shaft out of pocket would cost about 7-10K at that price I would get a custom crank made and make a stroker motor! Even though that would cost more than 10K Imagine that C55 stroker! that would be fun.

SL55_Forever

WARNING: Read This Before Buying AMS