C32 AMG, C55 AMG (W203) 2001 - 2007

C32 Spark Plugs

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Old 11-05-2008, 06:59 PM
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LET C32 2002
Originally Posted by kindafast
Oh and thanks for the help guys! I appreaciate it!
Especially the chit chat part betwen Victor and Newzchspy
kidding, kidding!
Glenn loves to make everything entertaining
Old 11-05-2008, 07:05 PM
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LET C32 2002
Originally Posted by kindafast
I just changed the old ones with NGK IX. They are .44 so that's quite more than recommended I guess, but they were the closest to what I was looking for. Car felt easier and smoother at startup. I'm gona go for a run in it really fast. I was supposed to go to class at 5:30 but the car was only ready by 5:35
I say PM AMG-Jerry or loungn14 cause I believe thats what they are used to and ask about gapping.
Old 11-05-2008, 08:24 PM
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
NGK

7090 single side electrode platinum .039 gap $3 ea.
Old 11-06-2008, 12:04 AM
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W210 E55 & W204 C63
Just got back from the strip and my times are horrible. 13.88 is my best. 14.16 is my worst. I don't know what is wrong with the car. It used to run 13.4's with pretty much the same setup. I'm getting ready to sell it. I hate giving up like this, but I'm not spending my own money fixing it. And money is the only solution to this problem. I'm going to give it one more shot in the winter and use my christmas and birthday money to try to find the problem. If it still runs like crap then I'm giving it up to my parents for better times or selling it.

I ran a C5 Z06 while at the strip and he ran a 13.3 while I ran a 13.9. I had a .4 second better start than him and if the car was running normally that would be my first Z06 kill .

Jerry is sending me the intake and 185mm. I hope that throws me into the 12's.
My last hope is that my car is running fine and it's just the weather (though I ran the 13.4 in hotter times). We will see I guess.

I also have balding tires, I'll post pics tommorow. But I think there is a chance it might be them. My best 60ft tonight was like 2.2 lol. and average of 2.3

Last edited by kindafast; 11-06-2008 at 12:07 AM.
Old 11-06-2008, 12:39 AM
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LET C32 2002
Originally Posted by kindafast
Just got back from the strip and my times are horrible. 13.88 is my best. 14.16 is my worst. I don't know what is wrong with the car. It used to run 13.4's with pretty much the same setup. I'm getting ready to sell it. I hate giving up like this, but I'm not spending my own money fixing it. And money is the only solution to this problem. I'm going to give it one more shot in the winter and use my christmas and birthday money to try to find the problem. If it still runs like crap then I'm giving it up to my parents for better times or selling it.

I ran a C5 Z06 while at the strip and he ran a 13.3 while I ran a 13.9. I had a .4 second better start than him and if the car was running normally that would be my first Z06 kill .

Jerry is sending me the intake and 185mm. I hope that throws me into the 12's.
My last hope is that my car is running fine and it's just the weather (though I ran the 13.4 in hotter times). We will see I guess.

I also have balding tires, I'll post pics tommorow. But I think there is a chance it might be them. My best 60ft tonight was like 2.2 lol. and average of 2.3
If you can post your slip so people here can analyse it.
Old 11-12-2008, 12:15 PM
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'02 C32 AMG
should wires be changed along with plugs?

About to change my plugs soon also and was wondering, is it recommended to change the wires at the same time? Do they wear out at the same rate as the plugs or will they still be good?

BTW, best price I've found for Densos was at carparts.com, $8.49/plug with free shipping.
Old 11-12-2008, 12:33 PM
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LET C32 2002
Exclamation

Originally Posted by acm
About to change my plugs soon also and was wondering, is it recommended to change the wires at the same time? Do they wear out at the same rate as the plugs or will they still be good?

BTW, best price I've found for Densos was at carparts.com, $8.49/plug with free shipping.
I say why not change the wires also....that way you done both......... on finding the great price!
Old 11-12-2008, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by c32used
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ONLY because I PAY and pay WELL yet still don't get my parts??? Phenolics, (still waiting), Code III parts (still waiting)

The PIG needs an oxygen nasal canula he's flying so high at this point.
Old 11-12-2008, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by kindafast
I just changed the old ones with NGK IX. They are .44 so that's quite more than recommended I guess, but they were the closest to what I was looking for. Car felt easier and smoother at startup. I'm gona go for a run in it really fast. I was supposed to go to class at 5:30 but the car was only ready by 5:35
Hey kindafsst:

.044 is WAY too big of a gap for a supercharged engine. Factory is .035, and if you run MORE boost then stock, you NEED to decrease this gap NOT increrase it. Without getting really techno on you, the larger the gap the harder it is to ignite, through in a denser charge, aka boost, and this compounds the situation even worse. Too big of a gap can actually have the spark get blown out from the boost.

For some good reading on gap vs boost, visit the Kennebell web site. Good stuff fro reading. Yes I know its a Ford product, but an engine is an engine when it comes to techno babel anyway

See yeah
Old 11-12-2008, 02:10 PM
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02 C32 AMG
as far as the wires, i know LET had them on their website a while back but i dont see them there anymore. evosports product page for MB isnt loading so i cant get them there. is the only place to get them right now from needswings or the magnacor website? i know LET had them on their website a while back but i dont see them there anymore. evosports product page for MB isnt loading so i cant get them there. if the latter, what are the specs on the wires?

so by reading this thread, are IK20s or IK22 the ones to get and gap them (if not pregapped) to .035 or gapped a little less as MRAMG1 suggests?

NOTE: my search function isnt working and i keep receiving errors ("sideId is missing or invalid") when i try searching these questions.
Old 11-12-2008, 02:34 PM
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LET C32 2002
Originally Posted by Newzchspy
[/B]

ONLY because I PAY and pay WELL yet still don't get my parts??? Phenolics, (still waiting), Code III parts (still waiting)

The PIG needs an oxygen nasal canula he's flying so high at this point.

Well based on what we discussed via text or PM I thought we were going to meet in person so I could hand you those other parts also but I will ship out the phenolic spacers tomorrow AM or later if time permits.

don't want you comparing me to the other vendor who owes you
Old 11-12-2008, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by c32used;3164363[B
]Well based on what we discussed via text or PM I thought we were going to meet in person so I could hand you those other parts also but I will ship out the phenolic spacers tomorrow AM or later if time permits.

don't want you comparing me to the other vendor who owes you
[/B]

We're good Vic, relax!! I am watching this thread since I am in the process of changing out my plugs with the denso's and am going to a .35 gap you suggested. The damn firewall ones are buggers though!!!
Old 11-12-2008, 02:53 PM
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LET C32 2002
Originally Posted by Newzchspy
[/B]

We're good Vic, relax!! I am watching this thread since I am in the process of changing out my plugs with the denso's and am going to a .35 gap you suggested. The damn firewall ones are buggers though!!!

We are cool I am continuing your comedic flow

Find the right tools and the rears aren't so bad. But a skinny hand with the right tools take the pain away
Old 11-13-2008, 04:55 PM
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W210 E55 & W204 C63
Originally Posted by MRAMG1
Hey kindafsst:

.044 is WAY too big of a gap for a supercharged engine. Factory is .035, and if you run MORE boost then stock, you NEED to decrease this gap NOT increrase it. Without getting really techno on you, the larger the gap the harder it is to ignite, through in a denser charge, aka boost, and this compounds the situation even worse. Too big of a gap can actually have the spark get blown out from the boost.

For some good reading on gap vs boost, visit the Kennebell web site. Good stuff fro reading. Yes I know its a Ford product, but an engine is an engine when it comes to techno babel anyway

See yeah

Thank you MRAMG.



Now a little update on my car's problem: I think it could be the pump or the wiring around it, I lifted the car a few days ago and discovered a melted cover for the right fender. I'm not sure what caused that hole or the melting spots, but back in July when my cats melted from heat soak I smelt burning plastic/wires before the SC shut down ( I think that's what caused it). From then on I spent thousands of dollars fixing crap I thought was causing the problem. Apparently it's either the pump or something with the wires that have to do with the cooling system.
When I start the car up cold it feels like my old girl - agressive, quick and loud, but I never push it first 10-15 minutes, after driving it for that long it gets kind of less responsive at the pedal (have to push the gas more for a response). So I'm going to ask for an early money present for christmas and use it to replace the IC pump and get the wiring around it checked out.

Check out the pic and tell me what you think could of caused that to melt(the cover is from the right side, where the IC pump is).

Oh and I included pics of the old spark plugs, do they look okay, or worn out?
Attached Thumbnails C32 Spark Plugs-random-car-prts-001.jpg   C32 Spark Plugs-random-car-prts-002.jpg   C32 Spark Plugs-random-car-prts-003.jpg  
Old 11-13-2008, 05:06 PM
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2002 C32 1987 190E 2.3 334K miles and going
Originally Posted by kindafast
Thank you MRAMG.



Now a little update on my car's problem: I think it could be the pump or the wiring around it, I lifted the car a few days ago and discovered a melted cover for the right fender. I'm not sure what caused that hole or the melting spots, but back in July when my cats melted from heat soak I smelt burning plastic/wires before the SC shut down ( I think that's what caused it). From then on I spent thousands of dollars fixing crap I thought was causing the problem. Apparently it's either the pump or something with the wires that have to do with the cooling system.
When I start the car up cold it feels like my old girl - agressive, quick and loud, but I never push it first 10-15 minutes, after driving it for that long it gets kind of less responsive at the pedal (have to push the gas more for a response). So I'm going to ask for an early money present for christmas and use it to replace the IC pump and get the wiring around it checked out.

Check out the pic and tell me what you think could of caused that to melt(the cover is from the right side, where the IC pump is).

Oh and I included pics of the old spark plugs, do they look okay, or worn out?
That vinyl part looks like the lower wheel fender cover. It's located quite aways from the HE or any part emitting that much heat. If not properly mounted, at very high speeds, it could open up from below, rub on the road like mine did (left side though) and practically got torn off. No idea what part with that much heat would melt this piece.
Old 11-13-2008, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by kindafast
Thank you MRAMG.



Now a little update on my car's problem: I think it could be the pump or the wiring around it, I lifted the car a few days ago and discovered a melted cover for the right fender. I'm not sure what caused that hole or the melting spots, but back in July when my cats melted from heat soak I smelt burning plastic/wires before the SC shut down ( I think that's what caused it). From then on I spent thousands of dollars fixing crap I thought was causing the problem. Apparently it's either the pump or something with the wires that have to do with the cooling system.
When I start the car up cold it feels like my old girl - agressive, quick and loud, but I never push it first 10-15 minutes, after driving it for that long it gets kind of less responsive at the pedal (have to push the gas more for a response). So I'm going to ask for an early money present for christmas and use it to replace the IC pump and get the wiring around it checked out.

Check out the pic and tell me what you think could of caused that to melt(the cover is from the right side, where the IC pump is).

Oh and I included pics of the old spark plugs, do they look okay, or worn out?



Worn out, sorta like Moosie does!!!
Old 11-14-2008, 08:16 PM
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02 C32 AMG
Originally Posted by jturkel
as far as the wires, i know LET had them on their website a while back but i dont see them there anymore. evosports product page for MB isnt loading so i cant get them there. is the only place to get them right now from needswings or the magnacor website? i know LET had them on their website a while back but i dont see them there anymore. evosports product page for MB isnt loading so i cant get them there. if the latter, what are the specs on the wires?

so by reading this thread, are IK20s or IK22 the ones to get and gap them (if not pregapped) to .035 or gapped a little less as MRAMG1 suggests?

NOTE: my search function isnt working and i keep receiving errors ("sideId is missing or invalid") when i try searching these questions.
...can someone please address this?
Old 11-15-2008, 11:33 AM
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I had that error two about a month ago, I emailed the admins and it went away in a week or so.
Old 11-20-2008, 09:10 PM
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02 C32 AMG
I searched old threads and couldnt come up with a satisfactory answer or consensus:

Question 1: After reading this thread, I am still confused. Are IK20s or IK22 the way to go? Silverbullet vouches for IK22 but others have said to get IK20s. And they should be gapped (if not pregapped) to .035 or less according to MRAMG1?

Question 2: Where can the wires be purchased? They are no longer up on LET's website. Are the ones advertised on Needswings website the correct magnacore wires?

Last edited by jturkel; 11-20-2008 at 09:12 PM.
Old 11-21-2008, 12:02 AM
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LET C32 2002
Originally Posted by jturkel
I searched old threads and couldnt come up with a satisfactory answer or consensus:

Question 1: After reading this thread, I am still confused. Are IK20s or IK22 the way to go? Silverbullet vouches for IK22 but others have said to get IK20s. And they should be gapped (if not pregapped) to .035 or less according to MRAMG1?

Question 2: Where can the wires be purchased? They are no longer up on LET's website. Are the ones advertised on Needswings website the correct magnacore wires?
Their are other choices like the NGKs and based of advise for gapping my IK20s well I was told .031-.037 and we used .035.
As for the plugs NGK/DENSOs they can be found on ebay or do a google search sometimes they are cheaper that way as are the Magnacor KV85 wire set. Go to Magnacors website to read and purchase those if you desire. As for plugs well it goes like this IK16s are the hottest plug while IK22s are the coldest plug...IK20s sit in the middle...I too researched but based of what I read felt the IK20s are the way to go for me and I really don't think theres any major difference between the IK20/22s so you decide. I say seek for pricing on the magnecor wires so you buy from cheapest place.
Old 11-21-2008, 01:36 AM
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02 C32 AMG
Originally Posted by c32used
Their are other choices like the NGKs and based of advise for gapping my IK20s well I was told .031-.037 and we used .035.
As for the plugs NGK/DENSOs they can be found on ebay or do a google search sometimes they are cheaper that way as are the Magnacor KV85 wire set. Go to Magnacors website to read and purchase those if you desire. As for plugs well it goes like this IK16s are the hottest plug while IK22s are the coldest plug...IK20s sit in the middle...I too researched but based of what I read felt the IK20s are the way to go for me and I really don't think theres any major difference between the IK20/22s so you decide. I say seek for pricing on the magnecor wires so you buy from cheapest place.
thanks for the reply! and with regards to the different plugs being hotter or colder, why did you decide to go with IK20s? Are IK16s or IK22s for more heavily modded cars? What determined whether you want to go hotter or colder?
Old 11-21-2008, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by jturkel
What determined whether you want to go hotter or colder?
In a nut shell:

More mods, aka higher boost, better heads REQUIRES a colder plug

Exhaust system, resonator delete, even headers would NOT require a change from stock heat range.

FI cars NEVER require a hotter plug than the factory plug my friend.

See yeah
Old 11-21-2008, 09:44 AM
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LET C32 2002
Originally Posted by jturkel
thanks for the reply! and with regards to the different plugs being hotter or colder, why did you decide to go with IK20s? Are IK16s or IK22s for more heavily modded cars? What determined whether you want to go hotter or colder?
When I was in the market for plugs well I had IK 16/20s as the competing plugs the 22s where relatively new thus not alot of members had them. At the time the threads I read didn't exactly go to well against the IK16s so it made it easier to pick the IK20s instead. I like performance but my car is my DD so I wanted plugs for my personal use so reading the IK20s are good for everyday use well I decided on them. I can't downplay the16/22s cause I never tried them. Also if a plug is only POSSIBLY gonna give you a better 10th honestly big deal.
Old 12-10-2008, 12:26 PM
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02 C32 AMG
I have been reading about NGK IXs as an alternative to Densos for sparkplugs. If I were to order them online, what is the name of the NGK Iridium SparkPlug that is one heat range colder than stock? Basically, what is the name of the NGK plug that is comparable to an IK22?
Old 12-10-2008, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by kindafast
Thank you MRAMG.



Now a little update on my car's problem: I think it could be the pump or the wiring around it, I lifted the car a few days ago and discovered a melted cover for the right fender. I'm not sure what caused that hole or the melting spots, but back in July when my cats melted from heat soak I smelt burning plastic/wires before the SC shut down ( I think that's what caused it). From then on I spent thousands of dollars fixing crap I thought was causing the problem. Apparently it's either the pump or something with the wires that have to do with the cooling system.
When I start the car up cold it feels like my old girl - agressive, quick and loud, but I never push it first 10-15 minutes, after driving it for that long it gets kind of less responsive at the pedal (have to push the gas more for a response). So I'm going to ask for an early money present for christmas and use it to replace the IC pump and get the wiring around it checked out.

Check out the pic and tell me what you think could of caused that to melt(the cover is from the right side, where the IC pump is).

Oh and I included pics of the old spark plugs, do they look okay, or worn out?
You are right kindafast, for the first 15 minutes when you start it, the car feels like a beast. Then after that, it is really sluggish, and you have to basically push the pedal all the way down to get a proper kickdown(without shifting yourself). I had my ic pump replaced through warranty about 10k ago on my car, and I am all stock. When my car starts feeling sluggish, when driving, instead of pushing the gas pedal to accelerate, I use the cruise control stick on the left of the steering wheel. Set it on cruise control, and then use the stick to accelerate. Then pull the stick towards you to cancel the cruise control and step on the gas, it will feel a lot faster and more responsive. I dont know what a permanent fix for this problem would be, but that is what I do to fix it when I am driving.


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