DarkXerox

Well I've been having problems with the EIS and my key before, but today while getting lunch my car wouldn't start at all. I did the "hold down the a/c button" trick to check the battery voltage, but I think it was high enough, then tried to jump the car but no luck.

So I'm waiting for roadside assistance right now to help out. Grrr!

I'm at about 46k miles and I'm wondering if it is the alternator or perhaps the mysterious throttle body problem that people have had in the past.

Television

Did the key turn in the lock, and did the dash lights come on.

If they did the chances are that it is faulty EIS module or key switch,,do you have a spare key to try

DarkXerox

Tried the other key, no cranking. Tried to jump it and still no cranking. Had to have roadside assistance come out and replace the battery as I was kind of stuck, so it seems to have been that. Too bad they don't write on the battery how old it is exactly.

I guess I wasn't reading the info from the A/C screen properly. Does dyno mode let you view amperage/voltage?

SilverBulletAMG

Nope. At least not that I could find. Do your lights work, stereo, dash, windows, locks, anything?

kindafast

Hey my car wouldn't start yesterday.
I opened the hood, took the battery cover off, shook the battery wires a little and then the negative side threw a few sparks. I saw the lights turn on and gave it another shot. The car started. Weird.

TemjinX2

sorry to hear man. I hope its not the ignition system, i heard those are really expensive to replace.

viper501

Kindafast, it sounds like you have a loose ground wire. I'd tighten that pup up before you have some *real* problems, like a fire or *boom*.

TemjinX2

yeah i agree with viper. Its happens usually when you attach the ground back to the battery with a hand tool and not a rachet. My car wouldn't start until i tighten it back up with a rachet.

CLKCLK

I got this once, but hope it's not yours

Try this:
1. Go to Kragen or AutoZone to buy a spark tester (some guys use a screw driver to test [insert one end to the spark plug wire and let it close to any negative connection like the engine bore] to see if it sparks) but I don't really suggess doing this way.
2. Turn your ignition key to crank to test if it actually sparks. If not, check your inigtion spark control fuse 48 or 46 (don't remember). If fueses are ok then chance is very much the front SAM control unit messed up.

3. If electrical diagnos is fine then disconnect the fuel line that leads to the engine. Turn key on to see if gas is actually pumped. If gas is not ok, check the gas pump relays/fuses/pump (it's most likely not the pump itself since we have 2 pumps undernead the rear seat). If gas is also ok then crank position sensor? or bring it to the stealer

Good luck!

FrankW

if there's absolutely no cranking at all and the voltage shows 11.4 or higher. chances are it's still the EIS and key problem.

I had that happen before. unplugging the battery, ecu, etc and nothing will work until it wants to work. I just decide to lock the car and went back to watch the rest of the recreational league basketball. after about 30min later the car started.

it hasn't happened recently btw, but good reminder for me to have it checked before the extended warranty expire next year.

DarkXerox

Yeah after replacing the battery it started instantly. Had to re-program the windows etc., but even with the old battery, the COMAND system worked, all other electricals, etc.

Does anyone know the proper procedure for getting information from the A/C screen? I know you hold down the A/C button but I need to know how to interpret the numbers.

I hope it isn't the EIS, but the last two startups, the key hasnt had its crazy unlocking/locking the steering wheel like before.

SilverBulletAMG

Is this what you're referring to, or something else?

Press ”ecrest” for aprox 5 sec. Then press the left ”auto-button” any number of times to see the different channels.

01 In-car temperature sensor.
02 Outside temperature sensor.
03 Heater core temp, left.
04 Heater core temp, right.
05 Evaporator temperature sensor.
06 Engine coolant temperature.
07 Refrigerant pressure in bar (e.g. '4' is 4 bar).
08 Refrigerant temperature.
09 Not used.
10 Heater blower control voltage (normal 08-6.0, meaning .8 to 6 volts).
11 Emissions sensor voltage (to detect atmospheric gases and recirculate interior air).
12 Sun sensor voltage (to shift airflow in car).
20 Control current for auxiliary fan (electric fan on radiator, given in milliamps or mA).
21 Engine speed (x100).
22 Road speed (km/h or mph depending on installation).
23 Battery voltage at terminal 58d (as a percentage of total voltage, e.g. 99.0 = 99%).
24 Battery voltage (e.g. 12.8 = 12.8V).
40 Climate control software version.
41 Climate control hardware version.

DarkXerox

That's exactly what I was looking for, thanks! I swear that should be stickied.