TemjinX2's d2 coil over review
Here are the basic specs
seperate height and preload adjustments allowing for optimal adjustment and allowing full strut travel at all times
6061 high quality aluminum - powder coated for more protection
Threads are teflon coated to prevent rust
Includes 2 keys to adjust ride height
Rebuildable and serviceable in the USA
1 Year Warranty
Specs:
Solid Aluminum Top Mounts: No
Adjustable Top Camber Plate: No
Spring Rate Fronts: 5.2
Spring Rate Rears: 8.5
Part #: D2-B05
i think converted its 291lbs/in in the front and and 476lbs/in in the rear.
I found the spring rates on the Tein SS as comparison
front 336 ft and 448 ft rear.
So there setup for more over steer then the tein's. I decided just to go with the stock spring rates that it came with since i didn't know the c32 spring rates.
Just for future reference, i found this out the hard way, you need to drill out the front sway bar holes to 12mm since they come in 10mm for the other w203's. (thanks splinter for the tip)
So far i'm still fine tunning the damper for daily driving. I have set to 4 notches stiffer from the softest setting to get rid of the bouncyness.
The car rides pretty much like stock...except there's a lot less understeer. If you have 19'' rims it does eat up all the gap. I have the front's at the highest setting and its only a 1 finger gap in the fronts. The rears still have a lot of room for adjustment but i decided to go wit ha 1.5 finger rear.
You do need to reuse your oem bearings, under splinters's advice i decided just to buy new ones since mine looked wore. It also saves a lot of time on the install as well.
If it doesn't rain out this weekend, i'll probably have more at the limit impressions.
this is basically what they look like minus the top mounts.
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Specs:
Solid Aluminum Top Mounts: No................<did you buy this?
Adjustable Top Camber Plate: No..............<did you buy this?
Spring Rate Fronts: 5.2
Spring Rate Rears: 8.5
Part #: D2-B05
Last edited by mdncn2762; Mar 14, 2009 at 04:51 AM.
The only issue had was the driver side coil over where i had to raise all the way to the top just to get that one finger. i didnt have to do it for the passneger side. I believe this is a error on my part on the installation. I think i didnt correctly line up bearing. I plan readjusting it but i've just been lazy. So far it didnt really effect performance at the limit but i does make a clank sound on the driver side but not the passenager side when i drive over deep bumps.
Again my fault on the installation rather then coil over.
I am happy with the quality and packaging it came in coilovers that it came in. At $950 shipped it pretty much gives you tein SS performance with the damper adjustment at a tein basic price.
Did you buy these or?????
Solid Aluminum Top Mounts: No................<did you buy this?
Adjustable Top Camber Plate: No..............<did you buy this?
The w203 uses a bearing integrated into the top mount, which looks like a propriety design. Basically you either need to buy a separte set or use your old stock ones and put them over the coil over and it attached to the grooves of the chassis.
i didnt buy the camber plates since i don't really need camber adjustment for the fronts. You dont need them to install the coil over.
i'll try to did up a pic from splinter diy thread.
Last edited by TemjinX2; Mar 14, 2009 at 05:27 AM.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...placement.html
To replace them is an easy and inexpensive task.

Get with your preferred parts purveyor to obtain:
(2) 203 320 02 73 Suspension strut bearing
(2) 203 320 00 56 Strut mounting kit
(2) 203 320 08 44 Rubber buffer
(1) 203 589 00 07 00 Strut retainer tool

The strut R&R procedure has been shared before, so I’ll forego the perfunctory details –
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w203/196922-diy-coilovers-tein.html
The hardware kit is required by MB for any strut installation. It consists of the requisite consumable washers, encapsulated nuts, and bolts with thread adhesive (Loctite) already applied. Is it absolutely necessary? Probably not. Keep in mind that these lowly fasteners are the only pieces holding the strut in place. They are inexpensive insurance against potential separation and the ensuing catastrophic circumstances...

Replacing the rubber buffer (bump stop) and debris shield is optional for OE applications. They are an inexpensive wear item, so their concurrent replacement would be appropriate. Please be aware that the typically stocked 203 320 09 44 is for the increased ride height US (code 486, non-sport) chassis. While they may work well for those encountering tire interference, it will limit otherwise reasonable jounce travel and contribute to understeer. Those of you running coilovers should disregard the MB part number(s) for this phase of the job..
The only challenge to facilitating the bearing replacement is safely compressing the spring. The appropriate tool can be rented or borrowed. My good friend is a Michelin dealer, so I'd arranged in advance to furnish lunch and beverages for his technicians. They had the bearings swapped out pronto! I implore you to always be mindful that compressed springs store a tremendous amount of potentially lethal energy. They will take your head off if it goes awry!

The car felt much more precise going down the road after the installation. It was an investment well spent in that its improvement was immediately apparent. Slowing the aging process and running with the young bucks...LOL!














Thanks a lot, and yes it is "kind of HUGE" hahaha

