Sudden problems with the C32
02-21-2009, 12:37 AM
#27
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: san jose, ca
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
2002 C32 1987 190E 2.3 334K miles and going
make sure you get Iridium IK20s
although I have IK16s.
good luck if you're a DIYer.
I've replaced mine twice now. The second time just to regap to .035".
Took two hours and some scratched up knuckles!!
02-21-2009, 01:20 AM
#28
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
W203 C32 AMG, W124 E300D
I try to do as much DIY as i can, but just from looking at the spark plugs towards the firewall i dont even want to attempt it. Id rather keep my knuckles clean and have my mechanic do it
As far as the spark plug cables, the last cables i bought from my old work place was the german Karlyn/STI brand. Im not sure if they stock nology or magnacore cables but what does everybody else use?
Also the last spark plugs i used were NGK part #BKR5EIX-11 stock #5464. They were the only iridium NGK spark plugs they carried. Other then that they had some bosch platinum +2's and +3's.
Whats the part number for the IK20's i cant seem to find them on NGK's website.
As far as the spark plug cables, the last cables i bought from my old work place was the german Karlyn/STI brand. Im not sure if they stock nology or magnacore cables but what does everybody else use?
Also the last spark plugs i used were NGK part #BKR5EIX-11 stock #5464. They were the only iridium NGK spark plugs they carried. Other then that they had some bosch platinum +2's and +3's.
Whats the part number for the IK20's i cant seem to find them on NGK's website.
02-21-2009, 01:35 AM
#29
MBWorld Fanatic!
02-21-2009, 02:20 AM
#30
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
W203 C32 AMG, W124 E300D
jeez im so dumb for that one 
Ok ill go with denso this time around, but did i make a bad choice with my old setup? Should i try a different brand of wires too?
I just dont want this to happen again anytime soon, Wires and plugs all go bad in less then a year isnt cool.
02-21-2009, 02:36 AM
#31
Super Member
NGK stock # 5304 appears to be the correct NGK plug for the C32.
Then again, it depends on the amount of modifications done to your car. If you are heavily modded, you may need colder plugs +/- decreased gap.
Was it your OE wires shorting?
You can go with Magnecor kv85 wires. Some members don't like how they fit (i.e. they sometimes have a propensity to fall off). Use dielectric grease and crimp them ever so slightly for a more dependable fit.
I use them and I have no problems with them.
Do you still have these failed plugs? How to they look? - i.e. is there evidence of significant plug fouling?
What are your modifications? Is your AFR ok?
02-21-2009, 02:50 AM
#32
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
W203 C32 AMG, W124 E300D
The only mods i have are the code3 pulley and intake plus no cats.
It was the replacement german karlyn/sti brand that went bad:
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...g%20Wire%20Set
Yes my mechanic showed me the wires, they didnt look worn on the outside but the plugs did look horribly fouled. Im not sure how to describe them but they were almost burnt black looking.
Sorry for sounding like a noob but whats the AFR?
It was the replacement german karlyn/sti brand that went bad:
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...g%20Wire%20Set
Yes my mechanic showed me the wires, they didnt look worn on the outside but the plugs did look horribly fouled. Im not sure how to describe them but they were almost burnt black looking.
Sorry for sounding like a noob but whats the AFR?
02-21-2009, 03:10 AM
#33
Super Member
The only mods i have are the code3 pulley and intake plus no cats.
It was the replacement german karlyn/sti brand that went bad:
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...g%20Wire%20Set
Yes my mechanic showed me the wires, they didnt look worn on the outside but the plugs did look horribly fouled. Im not sure how to describe them but they were almost burnt black looking.
Sorry for sounding like a noob but whats the AFR?
It was the replacement german karlyn/sti brand that went bad:
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...g%20Wire%20Set
Yes my mechanic showed me the wires, they didnt look worn on the outside but the plugs did look horribly fouled. Im not sure how to describe them but they were almost burnt black looking.
Sorry for sounding like a noob but whats the AFR?
At wide open throttle, you'd like to be in the ~12.5 range. There are merits to being slightly leaner (increased AFR) or slightly richer (decreased AFR). It depends on your mods, etc.
Spark plug fouling (carbon) can be due to a number of different issues, including an over-rich AFR (i.e. too much fuel vs. air = decreased AFR).
Atrociously dirty/clogged air filters can also lead to fouling due to decreased AFR.
It can also be due to oil entering the combustion chamber (not good).
Since you are running C3P's intake and SC pulley, I seem to remember him decreasing the plug gap to 0.035" to be optimal. You may want to contact him regarding this (i.e. appropriate plugs and gaps).
02-21-2009, 05:17 AM
#35
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Livingston, California.
Posts: 1,013
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2002 c32 AMG 2012 c250 Coupe
02-21-2009, 06:31 AM
#36
MBWorld Fanatic!
greasybenz
Your A/F is set by having a properly operating set of O2 sensors and Ecu.when the o2's relay the proper info the ecu sets the A/F.If it was out of range you would have a check engine light.
To the op who could not get his codes read.Go to harborfreight tools and get the 94169 obd2 scanner for about 50 bucks on sale and read your own codes.Why go to an indie,if you can at least start the diagnostics yourself.
Use OEM wires.....and in most cases they last forever.Unless you yank them off or set them on fire.
To the op who could not get his codes read.Go to harborfreight tools and get the 94169 obd2 scanner for about 50 bucks on sale and read your own codes.Why go to an indie,if you can at least start the diagnostics yourself.
Use OEM wires.....and in most cases they last forever.Unless you yank them off or set them on fire.
02-25-2009, 06:58 PM
#37
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
W203 C32 AMG, W124 E300D
My mechanic gave me the printout of codes, it was all missfires plus left and right catalytic converters not flowing properly. But the cat codes were a given as they are not present.
02-25-2009, 07:30 PM
#38
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Southern Cali (Ontario)
Posts: 3,466
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
10 Posts
Yesterday night the car decided to have a fit. At idle the engine started shaking, then as i accelerated it was hesitent to get up to speed. I had my foot planted and it would struggle to get up to 45mph. Once it hit 45mph it just crawled its way up to 65mph but at that speed the engine was revving high (fairly close to redline) and i could smell oil burning.
So i pulled off on the exit. Shut off the car and checked under the hood for any oil seepage but i couldnt find anything. Once the started the car it was like nothing happen, car drove normally. No shake at idle and no struggle to get up to speed.
Early in the morning i drive it and it felt fine right up until the engine got to normal running temp. Then the problems came back again shaky engine, oil smell, and sluggish acceleration. The check engine light started flashing so i went over to autozone to rent a OBDII scanner only to find out they stopped renting out tools due to california law or some crap.
So now its at my indy repair shop. The mechanic took it for a drive around the block and he thinks the supercharger is dis-engaging. But he is going to keep it for a few days to troubleshoot it.
Any thoughts on whats going on? I wish i could have read the codes to post up for more help.
So i pulled off on the exit. Shut off the car and checked under the hood for any oil seepage but i couldnt find anything. Once the started the car it was like nothing happen, car drove normally. No shake at idle and no struggle to get up to speed.
Early in the morning i drive it and it felt fine right up until the engine got to normal running temp. Then the problems came back again shaky engine, oil smell, and sluggish acceleration. The check engine light started flashing so i went over to autozone to rent a OBDII scanner only to find out they stopped renting out tools due to california law or some crap.
So now its at my indy repair shop. The mechanic took it for a drive around the block and he thinks the supercharger is dis-engaging. But he is going to keep it for a few days to troubleshoot it.
Any thoughts on whats going on? I wish i could have read the codes to post up for more help.
Engine would loose power on a hot day.. or freeway run. But power was still available for daily driving.
However once the CEL came on.. there almost no power when the car was on a stop sign or light. IT would crawl to 2nd gear.
Monday, after work I removed my air boxes and made sure every single plug wire was secure and tight. Twisting some slightly to get more snug fit.
After running the car on Tuesday, the problem went away.
I thought it was my IC Pump again.. but I checked my IAT's during my drive home.. and I was only hitting 105 degrees on a 80 degree day.
I'm going to still swap to the CM30, since my C32 still have OEM pump.
But its not the IC Pump.
TPS could be something stored before.. if you had sprint booster.
Crank Sensor would not let the car start or faulty starts.
I say.. check your wires or coil packs.
02-26-2009, 03:47 PM
#39
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Southern Cali (Ontario)
Posts: 3,466
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
10 Posts
well.. after my CEL going away for a 1 day or 2.. its back.
Car is going into limp mode..
I'm thinking my plugs and wires are really dirty at this point, since my valve cover is really covered with oil.
My plugs are about 2 years old and my wires are OEM..
Car is going into limp mode..
I'm thinking my plugs and wires are really dirty at this point, since my valve cover is really covered with oil.
My plugs are about 2 years old and my wires are OEM..
02-26-2009, 04:45 PM
#40
MBWorld Fanatic!
What codes are you throwing?
02-26-2009, 06:58 PM
#41
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Silver 02 C32 & White 05 CLK500
02-26-2009, 07:59 PM
#42
MBWorld Fanatic!
Well, my ic pump has been replaced for about a year and a half. It was done through the dealership where I bought the car, and they replaced it with a stock one. On partial throttle, the car sounds like its trying to downshift, but it does not. I think I might have a problem with the TPS sensor too. Acceleration is sluggish sometimes, and transmission does not downkick unless I almost floor the car.
Not sure if I'm gonna go German again next time.
02-26-2009, 09:26 PM
#43
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
W203 C32 AMG, W124 E300D
03-02-2009, 01:52 PM
#44
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Southern Cali (Ontario)
Posts: 3,466
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
10 Posts
It was the TSP code..
I finally got around to review the CEL.
I unplugged the TSP harness or connector and clean it very well with compressed air. Also, tried to wipe the contact points and on the female and male connection points.
I talked to Brandon (code 3) he had the same problem. He just replaced the connector only and the problem was solved.
But he suggested we try to clean it and make sure it was nice and tight.
I have driven the car since Thursday and no codes and no loss of throttle response.
I finally got around to review the CEL.
I unplugged the TSP harness or connector and clean it very well with compressed air. Also, tried to wipe the contact points and on the female and male connection points.
I talked to Brandon (code 3) he had the same problem. He just replaced the connector only and the problem was solved.
But he suggested we try to clean it and make sure it was nice and tight.
I have driven the car since Thursday and no codes and no loss of throttle response.
Last edited by TopGun32; 03-03-2009 at 08:28 PM.
03-02-2009, 04:06 PM
#45
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: san jose, ca
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
2002 C32 1987 190E 2.3 334K miles and going
I unplugged the TSP harness or connector and clean it very well with compressed air.
I talked to Brandon (code 3) he had the same problem. He just replaced the connector only and the problem was solved.
So where is the harness located?
thanks,
I talked to Brandon (code 3) he had the same problem. He just replaced the connector only and the problem was solved.
So where is the harness located?
thanks,
03-02-2009, 09:55 PM
#46
+1
My vote would be IC pump, although your symptoms are a *little* different. Have your indy mechanic replace the OEM bosch unit with the Johnson CM30. FWIW, I'd upgrade the HE while you're in there.
Oh, also, buy your own code reader!!! They're inexpensive and can prove to be quite valuable when you need 'em. Personally, I got a nice INNOVA one from Amazon for under $100 - some are even way less than that; YMMV. GL with fixing your problem and keep us posted!
My vote would be IC pump, although your symptoms are a *little* different. Have your indy mechanic replace the OEM bosch unit with the Johnson CM30. FWIW, I'd upgrade the HE while you're in there.
Oh, also, buy your own code reader!!! They're inexpensive and can prove to be quite valuable when you need 'em. Personally, I got a nice INNOVA one from Amazon for under $100 - some are even way less than that; YMMV. GL with fixing your problem and keep us posted!
03-03-2009, 06:07 PM
#47
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
W203 C32 AMG, W124 E300D
I know i have to buy myself a code reader, but i wasnt expecting to do any major work on this car! Plus im a bit lazy when it comes to buying tools 
My CM30 pump comes in tomorrow! Hopefully this solves the problems and i can drive my C32 again. The 300D is just to slow
but diesel is cheaper then gas now so i cant complain to much
My CM30 pump comes in tomorrow! Hopefully this solves the problems and i can drive my C32 again. The 300D is just to slow
but diesel is cheaper then gas now so i cant complain to much
03-03-2009, 08:27 PM
#48
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Southern Cali (Ontario)
Posts: 3,466
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
10 Posts
Just in case.. follow your intake pipes to your Y splitter. Your black Y splitter couples with your throttle body. The connector is just located on top.
03-04-2009, 05:50 PM
#49
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
W203 C32 AMG, W124 E300D
DISASTER!!!!!
Im so upset right now but maybe someone can help. Got the new pump, new plugs, and wires installed. Everything was running great, car would pick up speed like it used to with no supercharger cutoff.
As im getting off the exit to my house i notice the engine start shaking like its missfiring but to the point where it wants to stall. So i pull over shut off the engine. Check engine light wasnt flashing and no other warning lights. Coolent level is good, no leaks or loose wires.
Start it back up and being only a block away from the house i attempt to drive it home. It moved maybe a few feet and i hear a big bam! A cloud of black smoke came out the exhaust filling up the street and the engine stalls and wont start back up. It will crank but it sounds like the engine lost its compression?
Im having it towed back to the shop, and the mechanic was just asking if there were any leaks or loose wires and i told him none that i could see. So now im at a loss, im hoping the engine is ok.
I swear if i didnt have bad luck id have no luck at all....
As im getting off the exit to my house i notice the engine start shaking like its missfiring but to the point where it wants to stall. So i pull over shut off the engine. Check engine light wasnt flashing and no other warning lights. Coolent level is good, no leaks or loose wires.
Start it back up and being only a block away from the house i attempt to drive it home. It moved maybe a few feet and i hear a big bam! A cloud of black smoke came out the exhaust filling up the street and the engine stalls and wont start back up. It will crank but it sounds like the engine lost its compression?
Im having it towed back to the shop, and the mechanic was just asking if there were any leaks or loose wires and i told him none that i could see. So now im at a loss, im hoping the engine is ok.
I swear if i didnt have bad luck id have no luck at all....
