rockjock

I know its been beat to death everywhere (but when you search for it-its harder to find for us newbs)-
I have an extractor that I'd like to use-and if possible avoid getting under the car (please comment on which you pref as well!)-how do I tell which engine/code I have? Its an 06 C55 (113, right?) but I cant tell if its a 229,229.5, ect ect-
Using Mobile1 (I'll begin to change about every 5k miles in the summer with "spirited" driving and track events)-once I get it out (suction, or drain?-I know, theres 2 plugs!) how do YOU measure what to put back in? (Dyno mode-waiting, ect, dipstick, what you pull out you put back in, ect)-thanks for the help guys!

rockjock

20 views and no one even wants to poke fun at me?

mkonei

i change around 5k, use the mobile one 0/40 European formula, and use an extractor through the "should be a dipstick tube". everyone says not to use an extractor because you dont get all of the oil out, but im doing it that way anyway. i think it leaves almost a quart in there. mobil one is good for 10k on oil changes, so ive always got one diluted quart in there going the full distance i guess you could say. im sure some ppl will shriek at that, but it doesnt really concern me. hth

rockjock

1 vote for the suction....thanks for the input!

ScottW911

With my extractor, I always get 8qts. out. If the extractor is not getting everything out, the C32 take a lot more oil than the manual states.

The "which oil do I use?" question has been argued to death in these forums. I will always play it safe and use the recommended Mobil 1 0/40. It is still the only one I know of that meets the MB spec for AMG engines.

I follow the computer recommend interval. It can determine if my style of driving needs more frequent changes.

Michael, PM sent.

hooleyboy

I change my oil by removing 4 screws from the transmission cover exposing the rear lower drain plug on the oil pan. Unscrew the plug and let it drain. Then I dump in a quart with the plug open once the drip gets real slow to flush out any sitting oil in the pan. Put the plug back in and dont over tighten it, You should act like you are afraid to over tighten it (Whatever that means) and you should be good. Continue on with the rest to the oil change.

Mobil1 0W40 Is what I'm running right now, but i switch it up from time to time, never going over 5W. 8qts is what you need The MB tech tell me its 7.6 or something stupid like that.

Sephiroth

I use the extractor as well, it gets most of the oil out and no mess. The dealership switched me to mobile 1 5w-40 but i've had a hard time finding that(except for the dealership) so I'm using Amsoil 5w-40 euro formula.

rockjock

Thanks guys! I'll be giving it a whirl tonight with the extractor and see what I can do (the red pluggy thing, right )
Hope this goes well! (I have a meet and greet at one of the local benz dealers Sat, so if anything is awry-they should be able to help...I hope!)
Thanks again!

kjb55

-Drain from both drain plugs.
-Once per year (<1,000 miles).
-OEM filter or Bosch 72204 (it's also the OEM in the box). The FRAM (as a reference is a joke). New o-rings in the filter housing.
-Exactly 9qts as the stated capacity since the drain method removes all the oil. Using a factory dipstick will result in 165mm measurement.
-0W-40 Mobil 1 (factory fill). 5W-40 Mobil 1 is formulated for diesel engines.

One off-brand oil just took it's lumps over deceptive ad practices: http://www.imakenews.com/lng/e_artic...mW6PM,b1M25KBS

lkfoster

The dealer put in 5w-40 Mobil 1 on my last service and I don't even recommend going that thick. I get noticeable lifter noise (at least I hope it's the lifters) for the first mile at AZ winter cold starts (all the way down to 40 deg F!). I figure that the thinner 0W-40 oil circulates faster, but I also think that the M113 engines are just noisey by nature at cold start. If it was me, I'd have sorted that out before worrying about how many people assemble my engine.

rockjock

40 deg.....yeah....put a negitive infront of that....

rockjock

Changed it out last night-took 20 mins-everything went perfect-siphoned off the old (7.2L)-swapped filters (with new O rings-man theres a lot on there!) new Mobile1-checked the level (3 times)-this is slick!
Thanks guys for the help/confidence building-def not getting under the car again for an oil change!

walee112

sorry to bring this back from the dead. but im trying to figure out which plug(s) are for the oil pan and which are for the tranny fluid. im trying to do an oil change and when i went underneath the car i found 1 plug which i think is should be the oil
(click to see the red circle)
and then there were another two bolts which i think may be for the tranny fluid but i cant seem to find the second oil plug.
(blue and yellow circles)
i've been reading alot about a second oil plug... where is it? did i even find the first oil plug?

and one last question. is the oil filter the oil filter the filter looking thing with the sticker (replace with oem filter... blah blah blah) up on top of the engine where you could simply change it from popping your hood? up front close to the radiator support? (i ask becuase it seems to be a bit too easy finding that filter) sorry i come from working on my old honda and this is my first oil change i wanna do it right.

superstar

Actually, it is 9qts with oil filter. Here is a copy of c55 operator manual

Viper98912

If I'm understanding your pictures correctly, the red and blue circles. You can access both bolts from the driver side - one bolt is in front of the wheel pointing towards the side of the car, the other bolt is behind the wheel pointing towards the rear of the car. Both bolts should have copper crush washers on them (that you need to replace).

As for your filter question, yes that's right (and easy isn't it). Just pull it out, it'll come out with a long stem. Pop off the filter, change all the o-rings, put on your new filter, and pop it back in.

While many on here like the suction/syphon system, I personally will always be a drain bolt person. I got damn near 10 qts out of my engine on my first change - I don't think the idiots who the owner took the car to last oil change knew wtf they were doing. They hadn't reset the dash indicator either.

I originally put in 8 qts, started the car up to let it cycle. Then let it settle for a few minutes, asked the dash for a reading and said 1 qt low. Added a 9th qt, started it up, let it settle, and then the next reading came up good. A couple weeks later did another reading and said good. Owners manual says 9 qts

kjb55

The drain vs. suck method can be debated (I suppose) on some MB models. But not the C55. The suction tube can't reach the back of the engine, where you can drain an additional 1.5 - 2 qts.

One additional note - change the oil filter with the drain plugs removed! When you pull the filter housing out - additional oil drains into the engine.

Tump43

I use the suction method every 5k miles and every time I refill with 8.5 quarts of Mobile One 0W40 and use a new OE fleece filter with new o-rings. The level is always correct and the car runs fine. While 0W40 may last 10k miles, but I do not believe that any filter will.

I second the 5W40 warning. That is the wrong weight for the C55. I would never let the dealer change my oil, or chain lube place -- at best they use recycled "blended" oil, but usually the use the wrong amount of the wrong oil.

lkfoster

The thing about filters is that up to point they work better as they collect solids in the oil. What doesn't pass through the filter forms a layer that filters out progressively smaller particles from the oil. The trick is to know when to change the filter before the back pressure builds up the point where the by-pass valve opens and you no longer filter the oil being circulated. In a car engine there's no way to know when this happens, so the general thinking is to change it earlier just in case. The problem is that filters blind in an exponential scale, which is to say that once they start they plug up fairly quickly. And you won't see it on an oil pressure gauge, even if we had one.

As for what happens if you don't catch it in time, our '35 Ford V8 didn't even come with an oil filter and they typically lasted 30k miles on a good day. But there were a lot of other factors (i.e. non-detergent oil, loose clearances, and babbit bearings) at play here too.

As a rule I change my filters every 10k miles, even on our Jeep that I used off-roading in the desert. Even with living in the desert with a lot of particulate (e.g. dust) floating around I've had a lot of cars last 180k miles with no problems, including a BMW M5 which is a lot more sensitive than my big lazy C55 V-8.

walee112

thanks man... you know what... I think its time someone made an official DIY for the C55 oil change. and when my time for an oil change comes imma try my best to make a DIY :P but i bet it'll suck since i've never done it before...

so then whats the yellow circle bolt?? where are the bolts for the tranny fluid?

Viper98912

Not sure, I've only had the car for a little over a month and havne't looked under there again

1Lop2K5C

Now I'm a lil confuse, every where I read, the dip stick reading should be at 160mm. Even you Kjb55 stated before that it reads 160mm at 9qt. Now you said its 165mm, thats about ~.5qt difference. Is there a difference between the factory dip stick vs. the Baume tool dip stick?

e1000

The Meredes-Benz fleece filter produced by MANN was specifically designed to last the full extended service duration of 13k miles or 1year. This is not paper media!

Phil C55

A couple of tips for those doing this job themselves. I prefer to drain my oil so some of these tips are for draining.

The oil drain plugs get torqued to 30 nm.

Always replace the copper crush washers, they're cheap at the dealership.

Like has been mentioned, have both drain plugs out after the filter is removed to get all the old oil out that can drain.

ONLY use the fleece oil filters, the OEM filters are Mann HU718/5 and a Purolator L25277 is a Mann HU718/5 with O rings made in Germany. I picked mine up at Advance Auto Parts for $11.49.

When replacing the filter, after it seats in the housing, it isn't all the way on yet. The filter will have two black lines on the side of the element and it is on far enough when one of the lines disappear. To make it go on all the way, you twist and push at the same time (I think clockwise but the filter comes with a picture showing)

I purchased the Baum tools #120-0721 dip stick and it is for a 113 engine that is in the C55. It won't go all the way in the tube and you will feel it bottom in the pan.

I put almost 9 quarts in and am at 155mm. I suspect that 160 is full, but since the range is 135-160 I never want to take a chance of over filling.

The torque for the filter housing is on the housing so that's a no brainer.

Mobil 1 0W-40 is the correct factory fill oil.

Just trying to help fill in some blanks. Phil

mkonei

000 180 2609 is the OEM fleece number

91RS

How can you use an extractor on a C55 since there's no dipstick? Isn't the tube in the back with the plug in it for the transmission?