Recommend shocks for my C32 - HR Lowered
#4
Super Member
+2 I've run Bilsteins for years and were happy with them, but I think the new Koni FSD gives a better balance of ride comfort and handling. I put a set on the TT a while back and really like them.
#7
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The only person I have talked with that put Koni yellows on his C32 said they were softer than the stock C32 struts. If you want a stiffer ride the C55 shocks work well.
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#8
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Zeppelin is correct, although they’ll likely dampen better than worn OE pieces.
Pleased with my Koni + H&R spring combination after having them revalved.
Install a rear Eibach or H&R anti-roll bar concurrently if you’re inclined to get after it.
Note that the Koni struts require a little massaging to accommodate our 12mm bar links…additional information.
Pleased with my Koni + H&R spring combination after having them revalved.
Install a rear Eibach or H&R anti-roll bar concurrently if you’re inclined to get after it.
Note that the Koni struts require a little massaging to accommodate our 12mm bar links…additional information.
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Zeppelin is correct, although they’ll likely dampen better than worn OE pieces.
Pleased with my Koni + H&R spring combination after having them revalved.
Install a rear Eibach or H&R anti-roll bar concurrently if you’re inclined to get after it.
Note that the Koni struts require a little massaging to accommodate our 12mm bar links…additional information.
Pleased with my Koni + H&R spring combination after having them revalved.
Install a rear Eibach or H&R anti-roll bar concurrently if you’re inclined to get after it.
Note that the Koni struts require a little massaging to accommodate our 12mm bar links…additional information.
Did a search online, and while the strut part # was correct, I found #8041-1319 to be the recommended part # for Koni yellow (i.e. sport) shocks...?
Whenever convenient, can you also elaborate about the revalving - what did you have done, and why did you deem it necessary (or at least desired)?
TIA!
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#10
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Members here seem to know my path thus saving me a new thread question...I haven't gotten started in this but I want to eventually..![naughty](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/naughty.gif)
So guys whats best combo and suggested other stuff to help keep the power on the ground?
![naughty](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/naughty.gif)
So guys whats best combo and suggested other stuff to help keep the power on the ground?
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... are always a good time.
Hello,
Thanks for the most excellant information. I have the HR Sportlines. The car is stiff. I lost ride quality as I had expected. But I love how the car sits. As for handling... better on smooth highway speed sweepers. Poorer on city streets with uneven pavement.
The car rebounds too much with the OEM shocks. Looking to correct that with a better set of shocks.
As for swaybars. Looking in that direction also. But if I remember correctly I need to get something from..... is it Code3 ? Adjustable links? I sent them an email about 2 months ago about getting those items as well as some "other" parts since I was on a business trip in SoCal. They never responded so I just blew it off. I figure maybe I was not that important. hah!
Miguel
Thanks for the most excellant information. I have the HR Sportlines. The car is stiff. I lost ride quality as I had expected. But I love how the car sits. As for handling... better on smooth highway speed sweepers. Poorer on city streets with uneven pavement.
The car rebounds too much with the OEM shocks. Looking to correct that with a better set of shocks.
As for swaybars. Looking in that direction also. But if I remember correctly I need to get something from..... is it Code3 ? Adjustable links? I sent them an email about 2 months ago about getting those items as well as some "other" parts since I was on a business trip in SoCal. They never responded so I just blew it off. I figure maybe I was not that important. hah!
Miguel
#13
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c32AMG-DTM,
Interesting.
Didn’t know about their 8041-1319 when ordering the 26-1679 from Tire Rack. Koni does indeed indicate your number is correct. Seems their former 26-1679 has been superseded. I regret the error. Never could get their rear dampers to perform appropriately; since fit a pair of Bilstein’s F4-BE3-6881-H0. They’re currently quite reasonable at ~$95 each.
Backtracking a bit…H&R’s C32 52732 set includes springs that while ~25% firmer than OE parts, are actually supplied across the entire sedan lineup. Their load height is rather low when the additional weight of our supercharger and what not is taken into account. Only their rear springs are C32-specific. H&R furnished a 29367-2 (wagon) rear pair gratis when the original set proved far too low for practical use – even with #4 pads installed. A proper ride height and rake looks kinda cool. Repeatedly slamming into the bump stops during spirited maneuvers isn’t the quick way around. Because springs of sufficient rate aren’t readily available, I’ve used the dampers as a crutch to help minimize its inevitable compromises and shortcomings. Obviously it’s not an ideal solution, but what else can one do?
After schlepping about in the lumber wagon all week, hopping behind the wheel of the C can never feel too firm. The OTC Koni is only adjustable for rebound damping. Useful to account for wear, but otherwise not particularly advantageous on our W203’s antiquated front suspension geometry. Their admittedly flaccid resistance is easily rectified. Both Koni and Bilstein provide excellent technical support through their motorsport departments. They’ll revalve their hardware quickly and relatively inexpensively. Mine have been modified to provide *about* twice their original resistance. Specific details available upon request. Because I’m admittedly on the lunatic fringe with regard to the customary comfort versus control equation, your experience may differ significantly.
Any suspension, no matter how poorly designed, can be made to work reasonably well if you just stop it from moving. - Colin Chapman
![](http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb196/splintersAMG/PVDWest.jpg)
an old pic included for absolutely no reason
Interesting.
Didn’t know about their 8041-1319 when ordering the 26-1679 from Tire Rack. Koni does indeed indicate your number is correct. Seems their former 26-1679 has been superseded. I regret the error. Never could get their rear dampers to perform appropriately; since fit a pair of Bilstein’s F4-BE3-6881-H0. They’re currently quite reasonable at ~$95 each.
Backtracking a bit…H&R’s C32 52732 set includes springs that while ~25% firmer than OE parts, are actually supplied across the entire sedan lineup. Their load height is rather low when the additional weight of our supercharger and what not is taken into account. Only their rear springs are C32-specific. H&R furnished a 29367-2 (wagon) rear pair gratis when the original set proved far too low for practical use – even with #4 pads installed. A proper ride height and rake looks kinda cool. Repeatedly slamming into the bump stops during spirited maneuvers isn’t the quick way around. Because springs of sufficient rate aren’t readily available, I’ve used the dampers as a crutch to help minimize its inevitable compromises and shortcomings. Obviously it’s not an ideal solution, but what else can one do?
After schlepping about in the lumber wagon all week, hopping behind the wheel of the C can never feel too firm. The OTC Koni is only adjustable for rebound damping. Useful to account for wear, but otherwise not particularly advantageous on our W203’s antiquated front suspension geometry. Their admittedly flaccid resistance is easily rectified. Both Koni and Bilstein provide excellent technical support through their motorsport departments. They’ll revalve their hardware quickly and relatively inexpensively. Mine have been modified to provide *about* twice their original resistance. Specific details available upon request. Because I’m admittedly on the lunatic fringe with regard to the customary comfort versus control equation, your experience may differ significantly.
Any suspension, no matter how poorly designed, can be made to work reasonably well if you just stop it from moving. - Colin Chapman
![](http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb196/splintersAMG/PVDWest.jpg)
an old pic included for absolutely no reason
#14
Super Moderator
Installed a different front spring/jounce snubber combination, along with renewing the torque and camber arms’ bushings, during the recent holiday break. A substantial improvement in its steering response, street-worthiness and directional stability was their pleasant result.
Setting aside for the moment that portion attributable to merely replacing its worn consumables, thought it appropriate to share with the remaining faithful OE hardware which has also improved its cornering speed. Must be noted that the H&R’s offering simply lacked sufficient load height and jounce travel during spirited (off-highway) maneuvers, or even to properly accommodate California’s aging streets and seismically-altered highways while puttering about.
Sourced new C55/CLK55 springs, PN 203 321 70 04. A pair of 203 320 09 44 bump stops, originally intended for fitment on “springs for higher ground clearance” (Code 482) rounded out the upgrade. MB’s 203 320 07 44 (US) and 203 320 08 44 (RoW) are standard equipment.
Static ride height has settled to approximately an inch and a half higher than previously, although still an inch or two lower than most US-specification C32s. The spring and bump stop combination has produced a delicious blend of progressiveness in wheel rate. Its 8.5/34 ET/245 setup clears sufficiently. Combined with (four) 220 333 01 71 fluted bolts at the arms’ mounts for adjusting camber & caster - and the ‘washer mod,’ tire wear is at last relatively even across their tread. Altering toe from specification has also proven beneficial.
The grinding understeer to which I’d become accustomed has been markedly reduced.
Setting aside for the moment that portion attributable to merely replacing its worn consumables, thought it appropriate to share with the remaining faithful OE hardware which has also improved its cornering speed. Must be noted that the H&R’s offering simply lacked sufficient load height and jounce travel during spirited (off-highway) maneuvers, or even to properly accommodate California’s aging streets and seismically-altered highways while puttering about.
Sourced new C55/CLK55 springs, PN 203 321 70 04. A pair of 203 320 09 44 bump stops, originally intended for fitment on “springs for higher ground clearance” (Code 482) rounded out the upgrade. MB’s 203 320 07 44 (US) and 203 320 08 44 (RoW) are standard equipment.
Static ride height has settled to approximately an inch and a half higher than previously, although still an inch or two lower than most US-specification C32s. The spring and bump stop combination has produced a delicious blend of progressiveness in wheel rate. Its 8.5/34 ET/245 setup clears sufficiently. Combined with (four) 220 333 01 71 fluted bolts at the arms’ mounts for adjusting camber & caster - and the ‘washer mod,’ tire wear is at last relatively even across their tread. Altering toe from specification has also proven beneficial.
The grinding understeer to which I’d become accustomed has been markedly reduced.
#15
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white and whiter
i'm willing to trade for H&R+koni with my TEIN SS coilover if somneone pays labor. lol
getting a little tired of the low ride height recently since getting used to the 204 height. LOL
getting a little tired of the low ride height recently since getting used to the 204 height. LOL
#17
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Rears had already swapped to those in their 52792-2 package...with #2 pads.
Didn’t quite realize how such a modest increase in travel, along with the substantial increase in spring rate,
could so favorably improve its handling.
That it now clears our driveway is rather pleasant, too.
Both pictures are of the 'before' ride height..
![](http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb196/splintersAMG/C32HRfront.jpg)
![](http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb196/splintersAMG/ElToroGTG.jpg)
photo credit nlpamg
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2002 C32 AMG
Any updates on setups with H&R springs? I know this is an old thread, but I'd like opinions on damper options for H&R springs. I just purchased a set off a fellow forum member. I have yet to install them. I've got #4 spring pads as well. The issue I'm concerned with isn't ride height, comfort or even performance on the street. I actually occasionally do lapping days and auto-x. I'm concerned about what I've read here regarding bottoming out and stock and aftermarket dampers being underdamped. Is there any point in going with Bilstein SP's in their current state, or I might as well just throw the H&R's on with my current stock dampers? The stockers only have 60,000kms on them. The tracks I go to involve a lot of heavy braking and tight turns at relatively low speeds. I think the main straight only goes to around 140ish km/h. If I do decide to revalve Bilstein's, will doing so void the lifetime warranty? I know a shop here that revalves for $70 a shock. If Bilstein does revalve from the factory, it doesn't help me. For some reason Bilstein will NOT sell to Canadian customers. I think it has something to do with protecting their retailers, not sure. I've inquired about this on numerous occasions.
I've also got the H&R rear sway bar waiting to be installed. Also, anyone know if there are aftermarket adjustable front endlinks with tie rod ends? I'm assuming our front sway bars are connected to the strut.
thanks,
Bryan
I've also got the H&R rear sway bar waiting to be installed. Also, anyone know if there are aftermarket adjustable front endlinks with tie rod ends? I'm assuming our front sway bars are connected to the strut.
thanks,
Bryan
Last edited by Autotechnica; 02-05-2011 at 10:45 AM.
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white and whiter
Bilstein sport shocks do have shorter shocks/struts rebound/bound then oem. they're designed to be used with stock or shorter springs. all Bilstein products does have lifetime warranty and getting them revalved by Bilstein doesn't void anything. revalve by other parties will probably void your warranty.
there is no adjustable endlink for the front swaybar as far as i know. there's only adjustable swaybar which is the Eibach 24mm front bar that has the choice of two setting (holes) when you attach it to the endlink.
there is no adjustable endlink for the front swaybar as far as i know. there's only adjustable swaybar which is the Eibach 24mm front bar that has the choice of two setting (holes) when you attach it to the endlink.
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2002 C32 AMG
Bilstein sport shocks do have shorter shocks/struts rebound/bound then oem. they're designed to be used with stock or shorter springs. all Bilstein products does have lifetime warranty and getting them revalved by Bilstein doesn't void anything. revalve by other parties will probably void your warranty.
there is no adjustable endlink for the front swaybar as far as i know. there's only adjustable swaybar which is the Eibach 24mm front bar that has the choice of two setting (holes) when you attach it to the endlink.
there is no adjustable endlink for the front swaybar as far as i know. there's only adjustable swaybar which is the Eibach 24mm front bar that has the choice of two setting (holes) when you attach it to the endlink.
I guess I won't know the effects till I try them. A lot of people who have lowering springs with stock dampers simply drive their cars around on the street normally, which really won't be affected by a shock that is underdamped. I need some opinions from spirited drivers. The rear shocks are easy to install, so trying different combos isn't a problem. However, the front requires a spring compressor and alignment each time since the entire spring/strut assembly needs to be removed. I want to avoid revalving so I'm either going with the stock dampers or the bilstein dampers. Just wondering if anyone has tried either of these setups for more agressive driving (ie track, auto-x, etc). I've had H&R/Bilstein combos on my BMW M3 and Volvo 850 Turbo before, they never had problems with dampening. How much heavier is the C32 than say the C240/C320 up front? The Bilsteins are not made for the heavier C32, neither are the H&R springs. Does this extra weight up front really make a huge difference? Do people with C240/C320 with this setup experience the same problems? Usually, I would never run stock dampers with lowering springs. However, I've heard/read that the AMG dampers are quite stiff and can handle them. Since mine have relatively low milage, saving almost a grand using the stock dampers would be great! The lowered look is just an added bounus to what I want to accomplish. I want better handling, less understeer and less body roll. The stock suspension isn't bad, but it feels like it's geared more towards comfort than performance.
thanks,
Bry
Last edited by Autotechnica; 02-05-2011 at 06:53 PM.
#22
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The reason I was looking for the adjustable endlink was not for added leverage, but for proper length to use with shorter springs so they won't wear prematurely. This is a huge problem I've experienced in almost all the cars I've owned that had lowering springs.
I guess I won't know the effects till I try them. A lot of people who have lowering springs with stock dampers simply drive their cars around on the street normally, which really won't be affected by a shock that is underdamped. I need some opinions from spirited drivers. The rear shocks are easy to install, so trying different combos isn't a problem. However, the front requires a spring compressor and alignment each time since the entire spring/strut assembly needs to be removed. I want to avoid revalving so I'm either going with the stock dampers or the bilstein dampers. Just wondering if anyone has tried either of these setups for more agressive driving (ie track, auto-x, etc). I've had H&R/Bilstein combos on my BMW M3 and Volvo 850 Turbo before, they never had problems with dampening. How much heavier is the C32 than say the C240/C320 up front? The Bilsteins are not made for the heavier C32, neither are the H&R springs. Does this extra weight up front really make a huge difference? Do people with C240/C320 with this setup experience the same problems? Usually, I would never run stock dampers with lowering springs. However, I've heard/read that the AMG dampers are quite stiff and can handle them. Since mine have relatively low milage, saving almost a grand using the stock dampers would be great! The lowered look is just an added bounus to what I want to accomplish. I want better handling, less understeer and less body roll. The stock suspension isn't bad, but it feels like it's geared more towards comfort than performance.
thanks,
Bry
I guess I won't know the effects till I try them. A lot of people who have lowering springs with stock dampers simply drive their cars around on the street normally, which really won't be affected by a shock that is underdamped. I need some opinions from spirited drivers. The rear shocks are easy to install, so trying different combos isn't a problem. However, the front requires a spring compressor and alignment each time since the entire spring/strut assembly needs to be removed. I want to avoid revalving so I'm either going with the stock dampers or the bilstein dampers. Just wondering if anyone has tried either of these setups for more agressive driving (ie track, auto-x, etc). I've had H&R/Bilstein combos on my BMW M3 and Volvo 850 Turbo before, they never had problems with dampening. How much heavier is the C32 than say the C240/C320 up front? The Bilsteins are not made for the heavier C32, neither are the H&R springs. Does this extra weight up front really make a huge difference? Do people with C240/C320 with this setup experience the same problems? Usually, I would never run stock dampers with lowering springs. However, I've heard/read that the AMG dampers are quite stiff and can handle them. Since mine have relatively low milage, saving almost a grand using the stock dampers would be great! The lowered look is just an added bounus to what I want to accomplish. I want better handling, less understeer and less body roll. The stock suspension isn't bad, but it feels like it's geared more towards comfort than performance.
thanks,
Bry
Doubt you’ll have much trouble with the OE LemfÖrder (PN 203 320 29 89) anti-roll bar links when altering ride height. AMG specifies the exact same hardware for its CLK Black Series. Note that extending their length may cause interference against the lateral camber links at full rebound/extension. Powergrid has adjustable links for our chassis. Used them as band aid to help equalize corner weights. I’ve a spare pair if you’d like them.
Increased rear roll couple reduces understeer, as does adjusting in additional negative camber up front. Don’t discount proper fore and aft alignment tweaks as a legitimate aid to exploit available grip. Properly done, they’ll help you get ‘round more quickly. No revelation there.
Might as well first try the H&R’s with your original dampers. If the resultant performance is not to your liking, perhaps then further upgrades may be deemed appropriate.
#23
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I can personally attest FrankW is, in fact, a “spirited” driver.
Doubt you’ll have much trouble with the OE LemfÖrder (PN 203 320 29 89) anti-roll bar links when altering ride height. AMG specifies the exact same hardware for its CLK Black Series. Note that extending their length may cause interference against the lateral camber links at full rebound/extension. Powergrid has adjustable links for our chassis. Used them as band aid to help equalize corner weights. I’ve a spare pair if you’d like them.
Increased rear roll couple reduces understeer, as does adjusting in additional negative camber up front. Don’t discount proper fore and aft alignment tweaks as a legitimate aid to exploit available grip. Properly done, they’ll help you get ‘round more quickly. No revelation there.
Might as well first try the H&R’s with your original dampers. If the resultant performance is not to your liking, perhaps then further upgrades may be deemed appropriate.
![Wink](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Doubt you’ll have much trouble with the OE LemfÖrder (PN 203 320 29 89) anti-roll bar links when altering ride height. AMG specifies the exact same hardware for its CLK Black Series. Note that extending their length may cause interference against the lateral camber links at full rebound/extension. Powergrid has adjustable links for our chassis. Used them as band aid to help equalize corner weights. I’ve a spare pair if you’d like them.
Increased rear roll couple reduces understeer, as does adjusting in additional negative camber up front. Don’t discount proper fore and aft alignment tweaks as a legitimate aid to exploit available grip. Properly done, they’ll help you get ‘round more quickly. No revelation there.
Might as well first try the H&R’s with your original dampers. If the resultant performance is not to your liking, perhaps then further upgrades may be deemed appropriate.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I will keep the stock endlinks and try the H&R's out on my stock dampers. I'll run them all summer and see how they perform on the track. I'm glad someone had done a fair deal of research. The Powergrid endlinks will come in handy when I'm ready to play around more with adjustments. It's good to know that such options exists. I'm fairly picky when it comes to how my car handles. In my M3, I went through literally 6 different suspension setups before I found one I was happy with. Hands down, KW coilovers were some of the best I've ever used on the track. I prefered them over even the famous PSS9's. I'm trying to keep this car on a bit of a budget. I will report back when I have everything installed.
thanks,
Bry
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white and whiter
Thanks, I was waiting for you to chime in! ![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I will keep the stock endlinks and try the H&R's out on my stock dampers. I'll run them all summer and see how they perform on the track. I'm glad someone had done a fair deal of research. The Powergrid endlinks will come in handy when I'm ready to play around more with adjustments. It's good to know that such options exists. I'm fairly picky when it comes to how my car handles. In my M3, I went through literally 6 different suspension setups before I found one I was happy with. Hands down, KW coilovers were some of the best I've ever used on the track. I prefered them over even the famous PSS9's. I'm trying to keep this car on a bit of a budget. I will report back when I have everything installed.
thanks,
Bry
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I will keep the stock endlinks and try the H&R's out on my stock dampers. I'll run them all summer and see how they perform on the track. I'm glad someone had done a fair deal of research. The Powergrid endlinks will come in handy when I'm ready to play around more with adjustments. It's good to know that such options exists. I'm fairly picky when it comes to how my car handles. In my M3, I went through literally 6 different suspension setups before I found one I was happy with. Hands down, KW coilovers were some of the best I've ever used on the track. I prefered them over even the famous PSS9's. I'm trying to keep this car on a bit of a budget. I will report back when I have everything installed.
thanks,
Bry
i'm very happy with the pss9. KW is great, but there's always a quality issue overshadowing their performance even tho they're life time warranty. i've had quite a few friends back on e46fanatics had their shocks blown up under normal usage (as in literarly blown up). one of my buddy's TC-kline coilover works very well with his e36 m3 sedan along with the strut bar and the x-brace from the convertible.
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2002 C32 AMG
if you use the stock dampers they will bottom (hitting the bump stops) out fairly easy. i've done it with RENNtech springs that doesn't lower the car as much as the H&R and it was with spirited canyon runs which was what made me look into the coilovers. with the TEIN SS and now the PSS9.
thanks.