Just curious who has pros/cons
#1
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About using this instead of nitrous? Opinions please...what are your personal pros or cons on using such things on our C32s? I am not stating it will be done and neither am I suggesting it won't.
http://www.snowperformance.net/index.php
http://www.snowperformance.net/index.php
#2
i was told that methanol injection won't make power on our car. it will just maintain cool temps and help maintain the power that we have or already should have. so basically help prevent us from losing power.
nice little link here: http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...injection.html
edit: it's also dangerous too if you dont have some kind of gauge to let you know how much you have left (not sure why you wouldnt want one).....but some guy on the C36/43 forum blew his motor b/c he ran out of his methanol mixture while driving.....thread called "tick tick boom"
nice little link here: http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...injection.html
edit: it's also dangerous too if you dont have some kind of gauge to let you know how much you have left (not sure why you wouldnt want one).....but some guy on the C36/43 forum blew his motor b/c he ran out of his methanol mixture while driving.....thread called "tick tick boom"
#3
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i was told that methanol injection won't make power on our car. it will just maintain cool temps and help maintain the power that we have or already should have. so basically help prevent us from losing power.
nice little link here: http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...injection.html
edit: it's also dangerous too if you dont have some kind of gauge to let you know how much you have left (not sure why you wouldnt want one).....but some guy on the C36/43 forum blew his motor b/c he ran out of his methanol mixture while driving.....thread called "tick tick boom"
nice little link here: http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...injection.html
edit: it's also dangerous too if you dont have some kind of gauge to let you know how much you have left (not sure why you wouldnt want one).....but some guy on the C36/43 forum blew his motor b/c he ran out of his methanol mixture while driving.....thread called "tick tick boom"
#5
i think methanol injection on our cars would not only slow heatsoak, but possibly prevent it. So if cooling is what you want, methanol injection seems like a good option. Just make sure you monitor your fluid levels.
#6
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#8
good! i'm the same way. mine is my daily as well (and only for that matter lol). i have just heard too many stories recently with people not doing smart things like that lol......resulting in bad things like blowing up their motor.
#9
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Methanol (or alky) is run to lower combustion temps-so you can run more boost and not run as high of a risk for detonation, ect-nitrous is to feed more O2 into the cylinder (kinda like adding boost) for more HP-
meth or alky will not alter heat soak to any significant degree (no pun)-heat soak is caused by engine temps/exhaust location-C32/55 guys need either a better fan, more surface area on the radiator, or a hood to vent the hot air out......
there are a TON of Evo guys running either set up with snow or cryo2/CO2 set ups-
meth or alky will not alter heat soak to any significant degree (no pun)-heat soak is caused by engine temps/exhaust location-C32/55 guys need either a better fan, more surface area on the radiator, or a hood to vent the hot air out......
there are a TON of Evo guys running either set up with snow or cryo2/CO2 set ups-
Last edited by rockjock; 07-13-2009 at 03:40 PM.
#11
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03 g35 coupe...........02 c32 Sold
i wouldn't use nitrious. I remember reading on the srt6 thread this guy use to run nitrous and when he had his supercharger rebuilt. The builder told him the nitrious ate away all the telfon on the twin screws. So he was lucky he rebuilt it when he did.
#12
ive heard of this before too, which is exactly the reason why i backed off from this idea 3 or so years ago when i first started a thread about ordering a kit.
#13
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03 g35 coupe...........02 c32 Sold
taken from teh srt6 forums
http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...upgrade-3.html
Originally Posted by MD SRT6
I talked to the people doing my supercharger today, and they did take the case apart they said there was some work to do in there so I'm happy about that ( not a total waste hopefully ). ANYWAY A CAUTION TO NITROUS USERS- they said the rotor in there that is coated with teflon was peeling/flaking off pretty badly ! I had heard this can happen with n2o, but ignored it. I guess I quit spraying at a pretty good time. They have requested the intercooler to see if there is any work that can be done there, so I'm mailing that tomorrow.
#14
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#15
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Oh well, just food for thought here guys.
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#16
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I think they are more worried about 1/4 then HPDE/AutoX-staging for the 1/4 is where the heat soak comes into play (you're not moving much if at all)-HPDE, ect there is no issue with heat soak-as long as the front is open....
#17
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Hence no heat soak. At every track I have ever been at, you have a LONG wait in between runs, aka more than 20 minutes. Drive slow down the return path, let idle for a few minutes, turn off with hood open, Problem solved.
E55's I do understand suffer from heat soak, but I am NOT biting on the C32 as I owned it, Draged it, Road raced it, and just about everything else under the sun with it and NEVER had a heat soak issue.
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PS Ice on the blower works miracles at the track
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Last edited by MRAMG1; 07-14-2009 at 12:53 PM.
#18
Guys, I REALLY have to question the C32's heat soak issue here as I ran mine HARD at the track for 20 minute sessions, and NEVER lost ANY power. AKA my lap times and passing ability would not change during the entire run. Heck they would usually get faster as I pushed harder and harder. Granted I did use a code 3 HE, with a stock pump, but this was also with a larger crank pulley.
Oh well, just food for thought here guys.
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Oh well, just food for thought here guys.
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Not sure which larger crank pulley you used, but it does matter. I used a 178 for a yr without any heat issues and without a heat exchanger. Once I bumped up to a 185 and ran much more boost (and subsequently resulted in the release of much more heat), i had heat issues and immediately put on my heat exchanger....after that, my heat problems improves b/c it was still cool, but in the summer heat, they are still quite bad and I lose power quickly.....and the way the stock coolant circuit is set up, it helps maintain that "heat soak"
it is very obvious when the car is heat soaked. maybe not in PA, but here in AZ and when sitting and not moving, you know.
#19
I havent seen anyone on here using it-but there is software out there for Map Switiching-you set the car up on a pump gas tune (one switch) and a race tune (meth/alky/NOS/100 oct, ect) and when the second runs to a certain point flow wise-the switch kicks in and goes to your pump gas tune-very safe-very convienant.You can also switch by hand when you want (not switch hands...sicko's
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#21
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I don't know what this is really either, but if the car can run without it why would it blow without it? Isn't it just added cooling? I guess maybe if you tune your car too hard it would have a problem but if you leave it how it is shouldn't it just help out? Also that person that tick tick boomed I believe said he jacked up the programming in his car I don't remember him saying he ran out of coolant.
#22
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i suffer from terrible heat soak, especially now during the summer....as it is currnetly 112 and only 10:47 AM. Hooley can vouch for how hot my car gets and that I lose power.
it is very obvious when the car is heat soaked. maybe not in PA, but here in AZ and when sitting and not moving, you know.
it is very obvious when the car is heat soaked. maybe not in PA, but here in AZ and when sitting and not moving, you know.
Number one, GET A LARGER HE NOW
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Number two seperate your system, as MANY have done here including a DIY.
What I was saying, and still agree with, is that a C32 in normal weather conditions aka 90 degrees, is NOT going to suffer from a heat soak issue on ANY track.
If there is an accident or traffic jam that lasts for hours, ANY CAR IS SCREWED. But under these conditions, since you are not moving, who cares that you are NOT making max power
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You happen to be in an extreme environment, sorry about that
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Good luck my friend
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#23
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I hit the 140's for intake temp on my car (C55) on my drive home on I94 here in Mpls when its 80 out side-there's a def. diff when you want to get into a lane and pass someone-there is a lot of heat under the hood on either car-
if you keep a "factory" toon on the car-the Cryo will only improve combustion-no ill side effects that I could foresee-
again-most guys do this when running 25+ lbs of boost (30+ on E85 set ups) to lower temps in the cyl.
I say get an alky set up-you'll enjoy that
if you keep a "factory" toon on the car-the Cryo will only improve combustion-no ill side effects that I could foresee-
again-most guys do this when running 25+ lbs of boost (30+ on E85 set ups) to lower temps in the cyl.
I say get an alky set up-you'll enjoy that
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#24
What I was saying, and still agree with, is that a C32 in normal weather conditions aka 90 degrees, is NOT going to suffer from a heat soak issue on ANY track.
You happen to be in an extreme environment, sorry about that
, that could give your specific car a headache. Not to mention the 185, whcih was NOT on my car as it did not exist yet.
You happen to be in an extreme environment, sorry about that
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anyway, sorry C32used for the
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#25
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2003 porsche 996 turbo
there has to be a way for you c32 guys to get a bigger h/e in front of your radiaitor. as tight of a fit as mine was i was able to fit the supercooler in mine with only minor trimming and mods. jegs has so many diffent size radiators surely someone can measure the space between the rad and the grille and find 1 to fit. then cut off the inlet and outlet tubes weld sghut and reinstall on the passenger side. i have fotos of mine if anyone wants them. my cost was 320$ and since the install i beat the crap out of it drags and highway blasts in 100 degree heat with NO s/c cutout