ESP, ABS, BAS LIGHTS ON CAR WONT SHIFT
I recently had my ESP module changed out due to an accident that caused this module to have to be replaced..... its been about 2 months and i went to crank up car this morning and all lights ESP, BAS, ASB came on and when i put the car into gear R and/or D it felt as if my transmission fell out, the jerk was bad....

Once I got the car into gear I drove around my driveway and I knew that i was going at least 5 mph, however the gauge did not show this it stayed at 0.... the car would not even shift.... later that evening I went back out and cranked it and nothing.... this morning it did the same thing as yesterday morning, so i had it towed to the shop, any ideas of what this could be, cost???

Thanks any help is greatly appreciated... the shop said that they would get back with me in the morning sometime as he did not have enough time to diagnose the problem... i am just wondering if i should have my heart attach now or wait until in the morning

 

did you check the battery voltage? These cars are very sensitive to battery voltage. I would check the battery first before anything else.

 

no not yet... but would this cause the car to not want to shift or go with these lights on?

 

low voltage or dying alternator can cause those lights to go off. More then likely its probably a dead battery from a battery drain or old battery. It takes a lot of amps to crank a mercedes. A low voltage battery would have trouble cranking the car.

Anyways...its a cheap thing to check. You can take your battery to autozone and they'll tell you if its good or bad and recharge it for you for free.

i would try all the cheap solutions first before throwing money at it.

 

my car would not shift out of first when my battery was not supply sufficient voltage. it puts your car in limp mode, which are the symptoms you are describing.

 

Sorry for the thread dig but something sorta similar just happened to my car. I haven't had any work done or anything, but hadn't started my car for almost 2 weeks because i was on vacation but when i got back it started just fine and I drove it around for a bit. Car was working fine for a couple days but this evening i started my car and the BAS ESP and ABS lights all turned on and I couldn't shift out of Park. My car is a sitting duck. Nothing seems wrong, brakes feel fine while in park and the brake lights turn on, wheel turns side to side, engine sounds fine. I will take the battery to autozone like the posters above me suggested just in case it has something to do with that but I just wanted to see if anyone had something similar happen?

 

Have them check the ESP module again. I had these same symptoms except when I was driving the speedo went from 60 and just dropped to 0 and wouldn't shift out of fourth gear even when at a stop light. Had it towed to the dealer and they replaced the esp module and haven't had any issues since then. But check the voltage and battery first because mine always started up it just wouldn't shift out of first gear.

 

I still think the dealer was full of s*** and a$$ raped you with that module...

 

Have a good MB mechanic check:
ABS/ESP module
ABS/ESP pump (which sits behind the module itself)
Brake light (sounds dumb, but trust me)
I don't know if the C32 is the same, but the C55 has a diaphragm that controls the brake light, instead of a switch. Because German. have them check thats well.

Best 'o luck!

 

My car does this same thing now just had the transmission coolant hoses replaced and the transmission rebuilt with a performance clutch. after all that i had this same issues anyone figure this out yet?

 

Most of the issues discussed are related to a faulty break light switch. I had to replace on all my prior 210 and 208’s regardless of the mileage. It’s questionable though after reading the OP’s post. Not being able to start the car and the bad jerk. 🤔

Regardless a cheap part and a good place to start. Simply worth replacing for the peace of mind. GL!!

Common symptoms of a defective brake light switch.

• Car stuck in Park.
• ABS ESP ETS lights come on.
• Can not move the shifter from Park to Drive.
• Brakes Defective Warning on Instrument Cluster.
• Car won't shift gears. Stuck in 2nd gear, limp mode.
• Brake lights don't work. ...
• ESP, BAS, ABS lights turn on.

 

I know this thread is a little old, but here is my experience and what I've discovered to help those with a similar problem. These same display warnings and symptoms started a year ago on my 2004 C320 4matic wagon, it was intermittent at first and resolved by disconnecting the battery to clear the codes, then become constant. Tried to replace brake pedal mounted brake light switch only to fing that this model has no brake pedal mounted switch, I have recently found that this model has pressure mounted brake light sensors on the master cylinder under the hood roughly underneath and to the left of the fuse box on the driver's side. Depending on your model you may have one or two switches, Mine appears to have two. When these switches begin to fail, those display messages happen and the car locks up. I will be having those replaced soon and hope this helps, but there is another potential cause you need to be aware of, as odd as it sounds. The vents which shunt water from the sunroof (yes it is not waterproof) located in the two front corners of the sunroof can become clogged, most often this clog is located in the outlet hoses that are behind the front wheels. To get at them to clear them, you need to take off the wheels and the wheel well covers and fins the rubber X shaped hose end. A friend who is a factory trained Mercedes mechanic did this for me and GALLONS of water poured out. The problem is that this backed up water ends up in the floor of the car where apparently much of the wire harness and some modules are located. You can find videos of this problem if you google it. If those modules or the connectors along the harness become corroded, the signals will not be sent, and the same issue with multiple display warnings and car lock up can occur. A Mercedes dealer shop confirmed that I had water in the floor area and that is take HOURS of work to remove the seats, the side trim, and the carpet to get at the affected wire harnesses and modules, not worth it for a 20 year old car. I am hoping that testing, then if necessary changing out the brake pressure sensors mentioned above may solve the problem, if not I will start dismantaling the passengers side to get at the wire harnesses and clean the corrosion and test the modules there. Hope this helps. Google 2004 C320 brake pressure sensors to see where they are located under the hood and a list of what kind of sensors you have based on your car model.

 

Did you get it fixed Yet???? Have a 2005 C55 no one can figure out the ABS Module problem and Mercedes does not make the Modules any longer and or other rebuild places. The car is worthless!

ABS Module P0600 P0700 Codes Locks in to gear speedo to 0... What can be done

Thank you for any info

 

Well, the problem was resolved, but not solved. After spending money on many other elements of the 20 yr old car, and then having this problem with the multiple brake system messages and the car locking up in PARK and going to limp home mode even when force out of PARK using the hidden console lever, I decided to stop throwing good money after bad. My friend the factory trained mechanic tested the two brake switches under the hood on the master cylinder and they were operationg properly, so it was most likely due to the water that had collected on the floor as a result of the clogged sunroof vents. The testing messages kept pointing to a "communications" issue and that most likely resulted from the communications cables and/or modules located in the floor area being affected by the water. He then took the carpeting and trim out and examined the communications cables but couldn't find any corrossion, thus one of the modules was probably ruined but there was no way of telling which one. Then the alternator started buring up, so I called the time of death. I sold the car for $600 to the same mechanic who will be parting it out. My best advice to you, if your issue is related to the water resulting from the clogged roof vents, is to not to throw any more money at it unless you have time, ability, and desire to check every cable connection and module. It can be expensive and frustrating to keep beating a dead Benz.