C32 struts and shocks replacement...
11-30-2009, 12:29 AM
#26
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
See you’re a member of the failed bush club. No damper upgrade will substantively improve your chassis until they’re renewed.
MB’s latest iteration for their jelly-filled torque arm bushing is 211 333 11 14.
Might as well do the cross arms while you’re under there…203 333 09 14.
Thoroughly inspect your inner & outer tie-rod ends and anti-roll bar links, too, as they’re also likely soon destined for the recycling bin.
MB’s latest iteration for their jelly-filled torque arm bushing is 211 333 11 14.
Might as well do the cross arms while you’re under there…203 333 09 14.
Thoroughly inspect your inner & outer tie-rod ends and anti-roll bar links, too, as they’re also likely soon destined for the recycling bin.
because im on partstrain.com checkin gout some control arm bushing and theyre all fairly cheap around 15-25 dollars...
i just dont konw if its the lower or uppper front control arm bushings?
11-30-2009, 12:46 AM
#27
Super Moderator
Our local dealer quoted $650 for just its torque arm bushing replacement. Yours may be substantially less.
Freshened all the aforementioned hardware for ~$200 and a pleasant Saturday invested in the garage.
Sublet the gratis press work though.
Regardless of how reliable any MBW source may have proven to be, it’s always prudent to verify part numbers from your preferred vendor. Note that many discount websites are horribly inaccurate or dated with regards to latest OE hardware. They’re often trying to reduce their inventory to the enthusiasts’ detriment. However, any error resulting in improper fitment from their recommendation will then rightly be absorbed by them. The 211 333 11 14 initially threw me a curve, but it’s indeed the correct bushing for my C32. YMMV.
It also cross-references to the CLK63 Black Series...and it's a damn sight stiffer than the original junk. :)
EPC keeps ‘em honest.
Freshened all the aforementioned hardware for ~$200 and a pleasant Saturday invested in the garage.
Sublet the gratis press work though.
It also cross-references to the CLK63 Black Series...and it's a damn sight stiffer than the original junk. :)
EPC keeps ‘em honest.
11-30-2009, 01:17 AM
#28
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Our local dealer quoted $650 for just its torque arm bushing replacement. Yours may be substantially less.
Freshened all the aforementioned hardware for ~$200 and a pleasant Saturday invested in the garage.
Sublet the gratis press work though.
Regardless of how reliable any MBW source may have proven to be, it’s always prudent to verify part numbers from your preferred vendor. Note that many discount websites are horribly inaccurate or dated with regards to latest OE hardware. They’re often trying to reduce their inventory to the enthusiasts’ detriment. However, any error resulting in improper fitment from their recommendation will then rightly be absorbed by them. The 211 333 11 14 initially threw me a curve, but it’s indeed the correct bushing for my C32. YMMV.
It also cross-references to the CLK63 Black Series...and it's a damn sight stiffer than the original junk.
EPC keeps ‘em honest.
Freshened all the aforementioned hardware for ~$200 and a pleasant Saturday invested in the garage.
Sublet the gratis press work though.
Regardless of how reliable any MBW source may have proven to be, it’s always prudent to verify part numbers from your preferred vendor. Note that many discount websites are horribly inaccurate or dated with regards to latest OE hardware. They’re often trying to reduce their inventory to the enthusiasts’ detriment. However, any error resulting in improper fitment from their recommendation will then rightly be absorbed by them. The 211 333 11 14 initially threw me a curve, but it’s indeed the correct bushing for my C32. YMMV.
It also cross-references to the CLK63 Black Series...and it's a damn sight stiffer than the original junk.
EPC keeps ‘em honest.
thanks my man! youve been a huge huge HUGE help!
11-30-2009, 02:43 AM
#29
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2002 c32 AMG 2012 c250 Coupe
11-30-2009, 04:23 AM
#30
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C32 AMG
just a correction...i did not use mb bushing
It was Lemforder brand,,,solid rubber...but not the jelly filled mb spec
I had poly urethane bushing for about a week, it was too harsh for me
solid rubber bushing was the best compromise between the two
It was Lemforder brand,,,solid rubber...but not the jelly filled mb spec
I had poly urethane bushing for about a week, it was too harsh for me
solid rubber bushing was the best compromise between the two
11-30-2009, 02:25 PM
#31
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03 C32 AMG
If youre doing all this work to overhaul your suspension do not ride on cut springs. The ride is horrible! It may look really nice, but after driving around for 5 minutes youre going to miss your smooth ride. Id go with some coilovers if you really want the car low.
11-30-2009, 08:18 PM
#32
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
i work like down the street from mb of sac so i inquired about the part number...and they only had 2 left! im like! shoot ill take one...but for $44 each..im like whatever! i need it! haha tax and everything totaled to $48.60...but ey..MB OEM!
ill post pics in a bit..but now
i JUST got home, so i didnt get to tackle out the job myself..didnt drive the benz today, drove the Z so i got a little bit of handling fun drivin her :-]
11-30-2009, 08:32 PM
#33
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
See you’re a member of the failed bush club. No damper upgrade will substantively improve your chassis until they’re renewed.
MB’s latest iteration for their jelly-filled torque arm bushing is 211 333 11 14.
Might as well do the cross arms while you’re under there…203 333 09 14.
Thoroughly inspect your inner & outer tie-rod ends and anti-roll bar links, too, as they’re also likely soon destined for the recycling bin.
MB’s latest iteration for their jelly-filled torque arm bushing is 211 333 11 14.
Might as well do the cross arms while you’re under there…203 333 09 14.
Thoroughly inspect your inner & outer tie-rod ends and anti-roll bar links, too, as they’re also likely soon destined for the recycling bin.
YOU my man is awesome! and so are the rest of the benzer's here! thanks guys for all the input!
but during my lunch, drove across the block and inquired about these, and so i got em!
:-]
i lil pricey..but whatever...its OEM and its exact to the part #
so now i just gotta worry about the installation. its Def a DIY, but Saer1one is right, looks like i gotta take it to the shop for them to actually remove the bushing and put the new one on..but well see tomorrow.
here they are
cant wait to get these on so no more wheel rattling!
every bumps i hit!
11-30-2009, 08:35 PM
#34
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Thanks dude! and lemme just get my stuff together, and as soon as i get this ordeal done with, imma snag those u know what from u
i know i know ui know, but freakin Black Friday broke my bank!
but im recovering so ill def keep u posted!
and i saw ur vids, THAT CAR looks hot in action man! loving the new paint job! def unique, and im all about being unique bro! GOODJOB!
11-30-2009, 10:40 PM
#35
Super Moderator
Removing the torque arm is straightforward.
Only real challenge may be freeing the tapered ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Didn’t want to use a pickle fork in deference to its rubber seal, or a BFH for fear of buggering the threads. A fine excuse for adding another specialty tool to the collection.
Let me know if you’d like to borrow it.
Attached some pertinent workshop documents.
Working on posting a DIY, but it’s not quite ready for prime time.
Have had good luck with replacement Lemförder chassis components.
They are every bit as strong as Moog’s “Super Duty” line for Yank hardware.
Fact is they’re an OEM supplier to MB, Porsche and BMW…much like Bosch, Mann+Hummel and Behr, among others.
Imagine my surprise, though, when I ordered a pair of C/CLK55 springs, only to discover they’re made for AMG by Eibach.
Only real challenge may be freeing the tapered ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Didn’t want to use a pickle fork in deference to its rubber seal, or a BFH for fear of buggering the threads. A fine excuse for adding another specialty tool to the collection.
Let me know if you’d like to borrow it.
Attached some pertinent workshop documents.
Working on posting a DIY, but it’s not quite ready for prime time.
They are every bit as strong as Moog’s “Super Duty” line for Yank hardware.
Fact is they’re an OEM supplier to MB, Porsche and BMW…much like Bosch, Mann+Hummel and Behr, among others.
Imagine my surprise, though, when I ordered a pair of C/CLK55 springs, only to discover they’re made for AMG by Eibach.
Last edited by splinter; 10-06-2010 at 07:02 AM.
12-01-2009, 01:29 AM
#36
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Removing the torque arm is straightforward.
Only real challenge may be freeing the tapered ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Didn’t want to use a pickle fork in deference to its rubber seal, or a BFH for fear of buggering the threads. A fine excuse for adding another specialty tool to the collection.
Let me know if you’d like to borrow it.
Attached some pertinent workshop documents.
Working on posting a DIY, but it’s not quite ready for prime time.
Have had good luck with replacement Lemförder chassis components.
They are every bit as strong as Moog’s “Super Duty” line for Yank hardware.
Fact is they’re an OEM supplier to MB, Porsche and BMW…much like Bosch, Mann+Hummel and Behr, among others.
Imagine my surprise, though, when I ordered a pair of C/CLK55 springs, only to discover they’re made for AMG by Eibach.
Only real challenge may be freeing the tapered ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Didn’t want to use a pickle fork in deference to its rubber seal, or a BFH for fear of buggering the threads. A fine excuse for adding another specialty tool to the collection.
Let me know if you’d like to borrow it.
Attached some pertinent workshop documents.
Working on posting a DIY, but it’s not quite ready for prime time.
Have had good luck with replacement Lemförder chassis components.
They are every bit as strong as Moog’s “Super Duty” line for Yank hardware.
Fact is they’re an OEM supplier to MB, Porsche and BMW…much like Bosch, Mann+Hummel and Behr, among others.
Imagine my surprise, though, when I ordered a pair of C/CLK55 springs, only to discover they’re made for AMG by Eibach.
DUDE! YOU ARE THE BEST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
:b ow:PDF instructions on how to remove the control arms, offered to loan bushing remover tool AND you have the eibach springs that ive been wanting/lookin for, coz theyre the only lowering springs i really want for my C32 :-]
perfect lowered height which doesnt give ur car that "lowered" look unlike the H&R's..
i wanna lower my car wit the stock wheels, but to just close the gap enough, and still keep the semi-stock look..
Where did u get these springs man? and will C32/CLK55 AMG eibach springs really have the AMG/Benz part number?
question
..once the bushing is removed..how hard is it to put the new bushing on?
once again man, YOU DA MAN!
12-01-2009, 04:20 PM
#37
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Removing the torque arm is straightforward.
Only real challenge may be freeing the tapered ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Didn’t want to use a pickle fork in deference to its rubber seal, or a BFH for fear of buggering the threads. A fine excuse for adding another specialty tool to the collection.
Let me know if you’d like to borrow it.
Attached some pertinent workshop documents.
Working on posting a DIY, but it’s not quite ready for prime time.
Have had good luck with replacement Lemförder chassis components.
They are every bit as strong as Moog’s “Super Duty” line for Yank hardware.
Fact is they’re an OEM supplier to MB, Porsche and BMW…much like Bosch, Mann+Hummel and Behr, among others.
Imagine my surprise, though, when I ordered a pair of C/CLK55 springs, only to discover they’re made for AMG by Eibach.
Only real challenge may be freeing the tapered ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Didn’t want to use a pickle fork in deference to its rubber seal, or a BFH for fear of buggering the threads. A fine excuse for adding another specialty tool to the collection.
Let me know if you’d like to borrow it.
Attached some pertinent workshop documents.
Working on posting a DIY, but it’s not quite ready for prime time.
Have had good luck with replacement Lemförder chassis components.
They are every bit as strong as Moog’s “Super Duty” line for Yank hardware.
Fact is they’re an OEM supplier to MB, Porsche and BMW…much like Bosch, Mann+Hummel and Behr, among others.
Imagine my surprise, though, when I ordered a pair of C/CLK55 springs, only to discover they’re made for AMG by Eibach.
btw? do i need to extractor, insertion tool?
12-01-2009, 05:30 PM
#38
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
ARG!!!!
part number 211 333 11 14 is NOT the part that needs to be replaced!
its the Cross Arms 203 333 09 14!
:-/
i just checked the other side and it has the part number on it..going back to the dealership right now..to swap the parts out
part number 211 333 11 14 is NOT the part that needs to be replaced!
its the Cross Arms 203 333 09 14!
:-/
i just checked the other side and it has the part number on it..going back to the dealership right now..to swap the parts out
12-01-2009, 08:19 PM
#40
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
WHOA! twice i got the wrong part numbers! :-[ haha
its SUPPOSED TO BE the upper bushing part # 203 333 02 14
12-01-2009, 09:31 PM
#41
Super Moderator
12-01-2009, 10:40 PM
#42
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
OH DUDE! why u apologizing for!? U have been nothing but helpful man! seriously!
the actual part number for the bushing that i needed is 203 333 02 14
for the upper control arm one...
only way i know? because when i peeeked right under the driver's side axle...i saw the part number there, at first i THOUGHT it was 203 33 "09" 14..beucase i was lookin at it from the top in the inner wheel well..but it was actually 203 333 "02" 14, it was a bad angle/viewing from where i was at, coz the "02" looked like a "09" hahahahah
but i creepped directly from the bottom of my car, and it is "02" :-]
but thanks man, everything is cleared now, that part was actually WAY cheaper than the two previous bushings i bought were in the $40's lol the correct one, is only $33 lol
BUT thanks man, should be able to get her done on Thursday, my only day off :0/ but muchos gracias mi' amigo!
and if i am lookin at it right, that picture of the wheel and its suspension parts, i take it that thats the front passenger right?
then i would say that the part that needs to be replaced is coming from #18, because if you were to move the wheel all the way to the right, then thats where youll see
this:
from the front passenger wheel, turned all the way to the right
Heres #18 (IF im reading the diagram picture right) leaking, and #29 right behind it..
Last edited by SGTzAMG; 12-01-2009 at 10:46 PM.
12-01-2009, 10:52 PM
#43
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
SORRY! this is off topic but this was parked in front of WalMart on Watt and El Camino nmade me laugh..
12-02-2009, 12:04 AM
#44
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C32 AMG
Lol at CLK240, I have seen the new E class coupe rebadged CLK in oz, some people can never get over the 'CLK' designation, it sounds cool when you spell it, better than saying "E Coupe"
12-02-2009, 01:02 AM
#45
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
i really do wish MB just kept the CLK Coupe, and just redesigned it completely..rather than replacing it with the E Coupe..i dont really like the E Coupe..
come to think of it lol, the CLK Coupes and Vert's from 98-02 ALL look like what would have been an E-Coupe during those times. lol
from front to back the CLK's look just like the E-Classes..just the 2 door version lol, and it even has the standhing star and grill just like on the E Class hahah
kinda saad..
even for the 03-08 CLK's...
even though they took the front end of a C Class..and re did it, the used the E class rear...
wth? CLK sounds like one of those welded cars lol...
take a C Class front end, and an E Class rear end, and weld em together in the middle...cut it in half, and put two doors ahaha!
12-03-2009, 04:18 PM
#46
Super Moderator Alumni
Removing the torque arm is straightforward.
Only real challenge may be freeing the tapered ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Didn’t want to use a pickle fork in deference to its rubber seal, or a BFH for fear of buggering the threads. A fine excuse for adding another specialty tool to the collection.
Let me know if you’d like to borrow it.
Attached some pertinent workshop documents.
Working on posting a DIY, but it’s not quite ready for prime time.
Have had good luck with replacement Lemförder chassis components.
They are every bit as strong as Moog’s “Super Duty” line for Yank hardware.
Fact is they’re an OEM supplier to MB, Porsche and BMW…much like Bosch, Mann+Hummel and Behr, among others.
Imagine my surprise, though, when I ordered a pair of C/CLK55 springs, only to discover they’re made for AMG by Eibach.
Only real challenge may be freeing the tapered ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Didn’t want to use a pickle fork in deference to its rubber seal, or a BFH for fear of buggering the threads. A fine excuse for adding another specialty tool to the collection.
Let me know if you’d like to borrow it.
Attached some pertinent workshop documents.
Working on posting a DIY, but it’s not quite ready for prime time.
Have had good luck with replacement Lemförder chassis components.
They are every bit as strong as Moog’s “Super Duty” line for Yank hardware.
Fact is they’re an OEM supplier to MB, Porsche and BMW…much like Bosch, Mann+Hummel and Behr, among others.
Imagine my surprise, though, when I ordered a pair of C/CLK55 springs, only to discover they’re made for AMG by Eibach.
12-29-2009, 01:42 AM
#47
Super Moderator
Finished refurbishing its suspension and brake consumables.
Bloody thing goes around corners as if I’d grown some hair and shed 30 pounds.
Signed up for a track day at Willow Springs January 20th. You’re invited.
www.opentrackracing.com
12-29-2009, 02:21 AM
#48
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leonad2501
thats exactly what i did man!
i work like down the street from mb of sac so i inquired about the part number...and they only had 2 left! im like! shoot ill take one...but for $44 each..im like whatever! i need it! haha tax and everything totaled to $48.60...but ey..MB OEM!
ill post pics in a bit..but now
i JUST got home, so i didnt get to tackle out the job myself..didnt drive the benz today, drove the Z so i got a little bit of handling fun drivin her :-]
i work like down the street from mb of sac so i inquired about the part number...and they only had 2 left! im like! shoot ill take one...but for $44 each..im like whatever! i need it! haha tax and everything totaled to $48.60...but ey..MB OEM!
ill post pics in a bit..but now
i JUST got home, so i didnt get to tackle out the job myself..didnt drive the benz today, drove the Z so i got a little bit of handling fun drivin her :-]
