That sucks. Guess you're still working with Vadim. I've never personally used split second or PCS.

NGK BCP7ES

Cool, thats a good price.

I'm actually working jointly with Vadim and Cory. I'll give it another week before towing it to Kleemann however Kleemann never had a single one of their customers running over 9psi so my car is a first for them as well.

The good thing is that Cory assured me that they have also NEVER failed to solve custom applications with any car physically brought to them.

I would trust my car with Cory. Customer service is excellent and he knows these cars very well! I get help from him. If I were you I would have sent my car there from the start. You would have been on the road a long time ago

Funny Your set up & mine are real close, But I opted to stay with the OEM
(11 to 1 ) Pistons , I think you indicated you had custom (9.5 to 1) pistons.I've got a MP-112 Gen 4 , you have a IHI blower set up
When I first started to fine tune the set up I had a 2.8" / 71mm blower pulley and a 70mm idler. On the street & also on the dyno , my boost gauge would read 5.3 - 5.4 psi @ WOT and hold it there . No tapering off. The A/F ratio was perfect, 100 psi fuel pressure. Stock & recently cleaned injectors. No knock sensor voltage spikes. I then decided to go for more Boost. I called Southflordiapulley Hdqs. & got a new 2.6' / 66mm blower pulley. I lost some belt warp / Contact area . So I got a 3.55" / 90mm single bearing idler from a Mustang set up. Took 3mm off the OD, 3.42" / 87mm , as so it would clear the Pulley mounting Bracket & Thermostat hsg. Got it Hard coated anodized. Now I'm at 6.6 Psi At WOT . I have a little more belt contact patch, also. If this works out I'm going to have a Double ceramic bearing pulley made. There still no indicate of slip with the stock or with my new setup. My car runs great
Cheers _PTEngineering

My setup is actually 9.0 to 1 and the blower is an Autorotor which has four male lobes instead of three. With a 70mm pulley I've been running around 8.3psi before I rebuilt the engine to lower compression pistons and rods. The slip was very slight with a 65mm pulley but now with a 300 degree wrap I think I can actually run a 60mm pulley with no slip at all. I can also enlarge the crank pulley another 20mm to 172mm which calculates to 16.8psi using the formula above.

Any luck with the car? I'm going to try running a 65mm pulley soon. Hope the engine can handle it!

I'm getting my wheels refinished for $200 per wheel (grinded, polished, and clear coated) before putting on the KMACs and SpeedyBenz toe end-links tomorrow. Then final alignment and dyno on Friday. Next week the 170mm crank pulley will be ready and I will have Vadim re-dyno it.

Just heard from Lee at ASP that he accidentally put an 8rib outer ring on my stock pulley!!! Should I accept that or make him redo it?

Cool. I thought Vadim made you custom arms, didn't work out? Looking forward to your dyno numbers.

Make him redo it, unless you plan on switching all your pulleys to 8 rib

Yeah but I only bought 1 2pc set for $400. He wanted $1200 for the whole 6pc set and I said no way. It turned out MbArts was only $310 instead of $400. He just dropped by my work to pick my Speedybenz toe end-links ($325) and my KMAC front caster/camber kit ($359) 15 minutes ago.

Sorry about so much detail but I just can't wait any longer for the final test results on the dyno and track. btw..I paid him $350 to install my 5-gal trunk resevoir. Is that a fair price? Final alignment and dyno tomorrow!!

As for Lee, I said OK for now since the extra two ribs won't make any real functional difference other than looking funny.

You realize you said that about a month ago now, yes?

Sincerely hope your dyno goes well tomorrow, but forgive me when I say "I'll believe it when I see it."

Best of luck.

What happened with the dyno?

Dyno'd yesterday but had a problem. I will need a programmable/digital MAF in order to get the ECU to read and recognize the increased air flow to trigger the injectors to open. Right now it's either too rich on the bottom and too lean on top or if we adjust the resister then it's too lean on the bottom and too rich on the top.

The current resister adjustment narrowed the band width too much. Quoted cost was $1200-$1500. Then if it goes over 5 volts I will need a larger MAF housing like the ABACO product as well. Gary feels that the stock injectors and pump should be OK unless I add a much larger crank pulley.

I am now working jointly with Vadim and his partner Gary....
http://www.gksystemsinc.com/Joomla_RT_Hyperion/

btw...Dyno was aborted before max RPM was attained due to dangerously lean condition up top. Prelim was 460rwhp at 4000rpm I think. Still waiting for the chart to be emailed to me but it's really meaningless until I get it to run right.

Hmmm, it sounds like Vadim is trying to adjust fuel by just messing with the MAF resistor. That won't work. I suggest you get a tuner to custom tune your car on the dyno and add/take out fuel where its needed across the rpm band. You're almost there, just need a tuner! My car should be running 65mm pulley soon. Within the next 2 weeks. Eurocharged will be tuning it again on Feb. 6th hopefully if nothing weird pops up. I am planning an increase of belt wrap now but not sure which route to take yet. I will let you know how it goes.

Btw, 460whp at 4k rpm is alot!

What I hear from Gary and Vadim is that it's not the ECU but the MAF. Setting it to a lower voltage allows the car to run better at lower rpms but at higher rpms, the increased boost is being ignored by the ECU and thus the injectors and even the throttle do not open fully. Vice versa and the car gets CELs due to voltage overload. Gary guarantees that the programmable MAF will work or he won't charge me for it.