loudandheard

Well, this morning I started my car to let it warm up. I heard what sounded like a grinding noise and then a pop. The car tells me that I have an alternator/battery problem.

When I opened the hood, the belt had come off and I could see oil on the belt.

I have no idea what to look for. Could some one please tell me what might have happened and what I can do to fix this. I really think this could be more of a problem then what I could handle.

The weird thing was that the car seemed to be running fine when it happened. I was able to turn it off and restart it.

I'm thinking that one of the pulleys broke, but I have no idea where the oil could be coming from.

Please Help!!!

loudandheard

Well, it looks like all the pulleys are intact from a visual inspection, but I'm still not sure where the oil is coming from.

I think it's coming from the area where the oil filter is.

Dingleberry

sounds like a pulley gave out

influx

Have you tried turning each pulley to see which one gave out? Can usually feel the difference with your hand albeit slight. I had a bit of oil splatter on mines when my idler pulley went out on mines a few weeks ago.

loudandheard

So if a pulley gives out, then it will leak some sort of oil? Well, the belt come off as well?

So I'm assuming my alternator may be ok and the only reason the message came up was because the belt was off??

mustang281man

sounds like your idler pulley seized up and broke off. could of hit the oil cooler when it came off. battery/alternator light is on b/c the belt came off not allowing the alternator to charge the battery.

NamC32

This might be the reason for the oil problem you have is that your oil seal ring between the oil filter housing and the oil coolant housing worn out or get harden (happen to me few week ago) . It have 2 ring there, and when you start up the car the oil pump will pump oil throught that line, but the first hard splash pressure force the oil to leak through minor crack. When the car fully start and the oil flow at the normal speed and no air pressure in the line than it will slow the leak down (sometime you cant tell that is was a leak there). Try to start the car and have someone look at the oil coolant housing to see if there leak out from there. Last time i have a friend look at the housing when i start up the car and i he saw the oil leak out in between the collant housing and the oil filter housing when i first start up the car than is gone. After wiping off the oil i cannot tell the leak is from there. I hope that help.

loudandheard

That could be it,but I found it weird that I had a weird grinding noise and then I heard a pop. When I checked my engine the pulley had come off and there was a bit of oil on the belt.

I'm sure I did not have an oil leak. I just changed the plugs and wires a couple of weeks ago and every thing was good. I then changed the ic pump and the coolant and no leak.

It's strange that I developed a leak with out noticing it.

The pulleys are all there, I did notice an accumulation of oil close to the ac pulley. I just can't seem to find out where it's coming from.

I'm going to go wipe down every thing with a bit of water and soap and see if I can't find the leak.

loudandheard

Well, I get a weird noise when I start up the car and then it goes away. It could be because I disconnected the metal tubes on top of the pulleys to see them.

Well, it looks like the leak is coming from the aluminum box right next to the oil filter. I want to say that it's the oil cooler. Is there a gasket or any thing that I could buy to prevent the leak? Do you think it's the gasket? The leak is coming from the middle of where the aluminum box connects to the area where the oil filter is at.

nick 55

I would venture to say the oil leak was the cause of throwing the belt. It doesn't take much oil on the belt for it to slip off the water pump pulley, which is a flat pulley that is turned by the flat side of the belt. When that happens, the tensioner will make a popping sound when it snaps to its end stop. I would replace the belt since it got oil on it.

Nick

loudandheard

That's what I was thinking as well. Luckily I already have another belt that I bought a while back.

So I need the part number for the gasket or seal for the oil cooler. I think it has one? Does any one know the part number of the oil cooler seal. Only other option is to buy the replacement oil cooler and I bet it doesn't come with a gasket.

c32AMG-DTM

Glad to hear it wasn't a pulley issue. The C32 oil cooler is an AMG specific part... can be difficult to find at times (and is relatively expensive); hope you don't need a new one to fix your issue.

blahuh

I believe its just like the set up on my C43, could be wrong though. There are two small seals that seal the oil cooler to the oil filter housing. Cooler is held on by four t30 torx screws. Resealed my oil cooler and oil filter housing yesterday. The two seals were almost $40 my cost at the dealer.

NamC32

The sqare aluminum box on the left side of the oil filter housing (standing view in the from of the car) that have 2 line the goes to the motor, that is 2 coolant line. Few people have the same problem, leak in between the oil coolant housing and oil filter housing. After the first oil splash force the oil to leak out between the 2 housing like i say in the last post, you almost cannot tell that there is a leak there. If that was the case here is the part number for the 2 ring 112-184-02-61 and 112-184-03-61. Dont buy it from the dealer, i have a quote last time for $100 for both. The picture i have below with the oil cooler in the sqare box. Hope that help

loudandheard

So you're telling me that when I change my oil filter and put the rings on them, then the problem should go away?

It's weird because I installed new rings a while back. If that's the case, all I need is an oil change. I already of the new oil filter along with the gaskets, all I need is the oil. I'm just worried that if I change the oil, it's going to be the same problem all over again?

loudandheard

I'm an idiot, I was reading your post correctly because of the confusion that I was in. For some reason I was thinking that you were talking about the o rings on the actual oil filter. I'm going to place an order for them right now. How difficult was the job and do you have any instructions?

Zeppelin

Sounds like it could be the power steering pump. That would be the only reason I could think of a grinding noise and then oil on the belt and the belt coming off. Maybe the pump seized. Do you have fluid in the power steering tank below the oil filter?

loudandheard

I'm pretty sure that the oil is leaking from the oil cooler. I saw it come up from the top and the bottom of the oil cooler.

I am a bit concerned about the grinding noise that I heard. I've been hearing it on start up on cool morning for quite a wow now. It sounds like some thing is hesitating to turn and then it goes away. I'm worried that one of my pulley bearings is going bad, but I'm not too sure how to test it.

I really want to make sure that my pulley doesn't break off and cause catastrophic damage.

I already ordered the seals and hopefully I'll have it soon so I can have my car up and running. Around $65 shipped over night.

NamC32

Not at all, here is some advise. Please my writting is BAD and also dont have much time to write this so try your best to understand.
1. TOOLS, in the picture below (important), a cut up latex finger (from latex glove) and rubber band to wrap the nipple in the coolant housing or some thing similar, a plug to plug in the coolant line after you take the line out.
2. Use a towel or something to put on the bottom for little oil and some coolant, stay clean is a good thing.
3. Remove the air hose , there is 2 bolt (forgot what size) and plug all wastegate open so dust or liquid cannot enter.
4. Use the 1/4 socket wrech & t3 (or t27 i fogot) to open 4 bolt in the coolant housing. Now the bottom inside bolt is hard to get them out so you need a 1/4 socket wrech with universal joint and a t30 together to open it. When you put the socket in make sure everything line up than add some pressure at the end so you don't strip the bolt.
5. After 4 bolt in the oil housing is removed. Now IMPORTANT, you need to have the plug for the coolant line and the latex finger and a rubber band ready. Carefully remove JUST the upper coolant hose at the coolant housing and DON"T let the coolant splash into the oil housing (it might spill into the oil housing, then immadiately USE the PLUG the into the coolant line FIRST and use the latex finger and the rubber band to wrap up the nipple in the coolant housing right after so coolant cannot run out either end. (If you want the coolant to run dry than you can skip this step).
6. Now you can use any sharp point tool remove the 2 o ring in the oil housing.
7. Clean in between the 2 housing and reinstall everything. BUT remember the 4 bolt in the oil housing need to be tight in criss cross pattern about 3 time so you don't end up over one side or the other.
8 Glab a BEER and called a day.
EXTRA COMMENT: there is other ways to do this, is by remove 2 coolant line first before remove the coolant housing, but you might waste alot of coolants and is hard to get into the hose clamp.
ALSO: Make sure to check up on it several time for few days to make sure is not leaking any more.

nick 55

If I was to do this job, I would loosen the oil filter assy. from the housing like I was doing an oil change. Let it drain for 5 minutes, and then using a large(40mm I think socket) I would unscrew the oil filter housing from the timing case. From there, I can unscrew the 4 T30 bolts from the oil cooler and remove the filter housing. That would minimize the oil lost and also eliminate coolant being spilled.

Nick

loudandheard

I don't know what I would have done with out you. You saved me tons of money trying to get it repaired else where.

That sounds like it may be a good idea, I'll have to take a look at the whole thing. I'll probably start the job thursday. I might try to take some pics so that we have picture reference.

NamC32

Oh yeah thank for point that out. I did try it but don't have the oil filter socket at the time and did try to open it with my hand and it not happening.

NamC32

You might want to inspect NICK 55 way to see if that was any easier (i have not have time to see what other way be best). BUT dont forget, try to minimize buying replacement part. Which mean, you want to fine easiest way but if that way might cause you replace other o ring or seal than you need might think about it. If you want to replace all other part new than take everything apart GOOD LUCK

Fabio D

The best you can made is clean them up all the oil in the front. clean all the front engine with some degreaser or fuel gas with some mixing air compressed pistol & after tunrs on your engine few minutes to see exactly where is the oil leakage

If its the oil cooler you only need to remove the "4" torx27 bolts round the oil cooler & replace the 2 black seals (maybe you need to remove the oil filter, remove the final lug inside the housing (i think is 36mm very big) & replace the oil filter housing seal too

Fabio Daniel

loudandheard

Thanks for the comment, but I definitely saw it coming from there. I saw a bit leak out from the top and a bit more from the bottom. I received the parts and plan on doing it tomorrow.

I received two odd gaskets, one is rectangular and one is round. I'll probably take pics tomorrow. I really hope this does the trick.