Does anybody do their own service/oil change?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 203
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From: Seneca, SC
2006 C55
Does anybody do their own service/oil change?
Guys, I've had several MB's before and I've always taken them into the the dealership for service. I now have a C55 and was just wondering if anyone else out there had considered doing their own service work. I'm a wrench turner so I enjoy it, but I'm a little concerned about how it will be looked upon when I go to sell or trade the car in a few years. I obviously can't do trans flushes or anything like that, but I can take an hour or so on a saturday and change the oil with Mobile 1 Syn. Well, I think I can...I've never actually looked at where the plug and oil filter are so I'm not sure that I can, but I guessing I could. LOL
Anyway, any suggestions?
Anyway, any suggestions?
Banned
Joined: May 2010
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S65
If you're concerned about a service record history while you work on it, keep copies of your filter and oil receipts. Write the mileage on the receipt(s) when you do oil changes or fuel filter changes or what have you.
And if you're a wrench turner, changing the transmission oil is a snap.
And if you're a wrench turner, changing the transmission oil is a snap.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,067
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From: Westwood, NJ
2004 Civic Si. FWD for the Win!
And the oil change would be even easier. Make sure to get a topsider and do the oil change from the top; don't listen to the weirdos who feel that you HAVE to change the oil by removing the drain plug, it's simply not true.
As Sathinas said, keep a log and receipts - you'll be fine.
As Sathinas said, keep a log and receipts - you'll be fine.
Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: MI/CA
C32 AMG
I'm sure it wont hurt your resale if you do it yourself, as the buyer will realize that its not cheap to spend $140 for an oil change every 3-5k miles.
Im changing mine tonight, I wouldnt mind taking pics for a DIY or something.
I believe you will need a fleece filter, crush washers, and your oil? And to take the cap for the filter (in car) you need one of those filter wrenches (not sure the correct name).
^ tommy, I bet im more smurfalicious than you
haha
Im changing mine tonight, I wouldnt mind taking pics for a DIY or something.
I believe you will need a fleece filter, crush washers, and your oil? And to take the cap for the filter (in car) you need one of those filter wrenches (not sure the correct name).
^ tommy, I bet im more smurfalicious than you
haha
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
From: Seneca, SC
2006 C55
DIY pics would probably be helpful to all...although I'm guessing the C55's V8 would be a little different than the C32, but I'm sure it would still be of benefit.
I've never changed oil without removing the drain plug. I'm guessing you're speaking of pumping the oil out through the top? I think I would drain it personally...any issues with that?
Thanks again for the replys!
I've never changed oil without removing the drain plug. I'm guessing you're speaking of pumping the oil out through the top? I think I would drain it personally...any issues with that?
Thanks again for the replys!
Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: MI/CA
C32 AMG
DIY pics would probably be helpful to all...although I'm guessing the C55's V8 would be a little different than the C32, but I'm sure it would still be of benefit.
I've never changed oil without removing the drain plug. I'm guessing you're speaking of pumping the oil out through the top? I think I would drain it personally...any issues with that?
Thanks again for the replys!
I've never changed oil without removing the drain plug. I'm guessing you're speaking of pumping the oil out through the top? I think I would drain it personally...any issues with that?
Thanks again for the replys!
From what i've read, it seems to be preference. According to some people on here, the MB dealerships use the suction method through the top, although I don't have the $40-90 or whatever it costs to buy one at the moment.
It does seem like it would be much easier though, and ill get one in the future.
People claim the suction method removes more of the oil, obviously I cant say anything toward that because ive never done it..
Ill take some photos tonight when im doing my oil change and hopefully it can help some people with their C32s.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,067
Likes: 11
From: Westwood, NJ
2004 Civic Si. FWD for the Win!
Yes, dealers do it from the top.
Yes, it's a much easier and faster way to change your oil.
Yes, it does get more oil out of your car than using the drain plug.
Yes, you're crazy if you want to jack up your car, remove the belly pan, then realize that you cannot now swap out the filter, since it's on top in the engine bay.
The oil filter will come with the necessary o-ring(s) you need. If you're going to be nutty and change it from the bottom, then you'll have to buy a crush washer as well, of course.
There are DIYs at the W203 non-AMG forum; do a search. It's very easy.
By the way, the filter removal tool is available from MB (about $25) or your local autoparts store. OR, since I found my original one last night behind my tv console (funny what the bi-annual cleaning digs up), pay me for shipping, and I'll send you my old one.
And for the record, papa - there's no way your car is more smurfy than mine.
Yes, it's a much easier and faster way to change your oil.
Yes, it does get more oil out of your car than using the drain plug.
Yes, you're crazy if you want to jack up your car, remove the belly pan, then realize that you cannot now swap out the filter, since it's on top in the engine bay.
The oil filter will come with the necessary o-ring(s) you need. If you're going to be nutty and change it from the bottom, then you'll have to buy a crush washer as well, of course.
There are DIYs at the W203 non-AMG forum; do a search. It's very easy.
By the way, the filter removal tool is available from MB (about $25) or your local autoparts store. OR, since I found my original one last night behind my tv console (funny what the bi-annual cleaning digs up), pay me for shipping, and I'll send you my old one.
And for the record, papa - there's no way your car is more smurfy than mine.
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 203
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From: Seneca, SC
2006 C55
Yes, you're crazy if you want to jack up your car, remove the belly pan, then realize that you cannot now swap out the filter, since it's on top in the engine bay.
So...and I'm talking C55 here...the filter cannot be swapped out from under the car but rather it needs to be swapped out from the top?
So...and I'm talking C55 here...the filter cannot be swapped out from under the car but rather it needs to be swapped out from the top?
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Super Moderator Alumni
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 4,539
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From: Southern Cal
a C32 AMG & S-Works Tarmac
Guys, this is a discussion that keeps popping up every year or so. If you search this or the W203 forum, you will find extensive discussions on these subjects.
I, personally (not being especially handy with a wrench), do my own oil changes. There is not a major difference in the C32's process from the C55's. The amount of oil used will be the biggest difference. I do believe that the C55 has 2 drain plugs though. You will need to remove both to get an adequate drain from the bottom.
Do yourself a favor, like I did. Buy a Mityvac fluid extractor (got mine on Amazon) and use it for years to come. I can do an oil and filter change in 15 minutes if I really take my time, without spilling a drop on my garage floor or hands. It extracts exactly what my computer (in dyno mode) shows for the oil level.
By the way, if you do decide to make life unnecessarily complicated, by using the drain plugs, remember to get 2 crush washers.
For the filter wrench, I just went to Pep Boys and got one for about $5. It is a pretty universal tool.
I, personally (not being especially handy with a wrench), do my own oil changes. There is not a major difference in the C32's process from the C55's. The amount of oil used will be the biggest difference. I do believe that the C55 has 2 drain plugs though. You will need to remove both to get an adequate drain from the bottom.
Do yourself a favor, like I did. Buy a Mityvac fluid extractor (got mine on Amazon) and use it for years to come. I can do an oil and filter change in 15 minutes if I really take my time, without spilling a drop on my garage floor or hands. It extracts exactly what my computer (in dyno mode) shows for the oil level.
By the way, if you do decide to make life unnecessarily complicated, by using the drain plugs, remember to get 2 crush washers.
For the filter wrench, I just went to Pep Boys and got one for about $5. It is a pretty universal tool.
Super Moderator Alumni
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 4,539
Likes: 4
From: Southern Cal
a C32 AMG & S-Works Tarmac
Yes, you're crazy if you want to jack up your car, remove the belly pan, then realize that you cannot now swap out the filter, since it's on top in the engine bay.
So...and I'm talking C55 here...the filter cannot be swapped out from under the car but rather it needs to be swapped out from the top?
So...and I'm talking C55 here...the filter cannot be swapped out from under the car but rather it needs to be swapped out from the top?
The filter should be top front right side.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,067
Likes: 11
From: Westwood, NJ
2004 Civic Si. FWD for the Win!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Atlanta Metro
Current: C217 V12TT AMG Previously: C55 AMG, SL65 AMG
Absolutely do it yourself if you want to. In terms of resale value, it's probably best to do it at the dealer if your plan is to sell in the future with service history. If diy, saving the receipts will help you but not be perfect in the eyes of a buyer. Yes, I save my receipts anyway, but I'm not worried about resale since I'm planning on keeping this fantastic car for a long time. I already bought it super cheap and know it's not going to be any better as I continue to own it. Plus, the car just rocks and as of now is pretty reliable.
I prefer the drain plug method, since I never fully will trust the vaccuum way. Some people say vac gets out more because of oil sitting in grooves when plug draining, some say vac gets out less because the hose doesn't reach all the way to the back of the pan, etc. I just jack the car up from the front axle (easy) and let 'er rip. You do need to take off the covers, which once you figure it out is pretty easy. I think the last time I did an oil change it took me about an hour once I knew what I was doing and looking for. Some people may think that's a long time, but I don't like to rush through my wrenching either. I enjoy taking my time working on the car.
You can buy a Mann fleece filter (comes with the o-rings) from many different places online. You'll need two crush washers for the C55, which you can find for $0.20 or so online as well. Don't buy the $2 ones. Try to find Mobil 1 0w-40 when it's on sale (in fact, O'reilly's sale for 4.99/qt expires in 3 days I think) and pick up 9 qts. Annnnd I just use my hands to turn the filter cap, don't know why everyone needs tools?
I prefer the drain plug method, since I never fully will trust the vaccuum way. Some people say vac gets out more because of oil sitting in grooves when plug draining, some say vac gets out less because the hose doesn't reach all the way to the back of the pan, etc. I just jack the car up from the front axle (easy) and let 'er rip. You do need to take off the covers, which once you figure it out is pretty easy. I think the last time I did an oil change it took me about an hour once I knew what I was doing and looking for. Some people may think that's a long time, but I don't like to rush through my wrenching either. I enjoy taking my time working on the car.
You can buy a Mann fleece filter (comes with the o-rings) from many different places online. You'll need two crush washers for the C55, which you can find for $0.20 or so online as well. Don't buy the $2 ones. Try to find Mobil 1 0w-40 when it's on sale (in fact, O'reilly's sale for 4.99/qt expires in 3 days I think) and pick up 9 qts. Annnnd I just use my hands to turn the filter cap, don't know why everyone needs tools?
Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 141
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From: MI/CA
C32 AMG
Lol. Well my problem is that I dont have time or $ right now to order a mityvac as im 100 miles over due on the oil change and have to drive 800 miles this weekend.
So, unfortunately I will have to do it the old fashioned way from underneath.
I am not against the vacuum method in any way, if I had the money id buy one to save myself the annoyance of jacking up my car.
(off topic)
smurfcore!!
I was gonna get a custom plate that said papasmurf, then I was informed that some people refer to pedophiles as papasmurfs? lmao
That was also after I had signed up for this forum with this name.... whoops!! haha
So, unfortunately I will have to do it the old fashioned way from underneath.
I am not against the vacuum method in any way, if I had the money id buy one to save myself the annoyance of jacking up my car.
(off topic)
smurfcore!!
I was gonna get a custom plate that said papasmurf, then I was informed that some people refer to pedophiles as papasmurfs? lmao
That was also after I had signed up for this forum with this name.... whoops!! haha
Super Moderator Alumni
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 4,539
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From: Southern Cal
a C32 AMG & S-Works Tarmac
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 293
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From: Middle of IL in a corn field
2006 C55 AMG White/Ash
A couple of tips for those doing this job themselves. I prefer to drain my oil so some of these tips are for draining.
The oil drain plugs get torqued to 30 nm.
Always replace the copper crush washers, they're cheap at the dealership.
Like has been mentioned, have both drain plugs out after the filter is removed to get all the old oil out that can drain.
ONLY use the fleece oil filters, the OEM filters are Mann HU718/5 and a Purolator L25277 is a Mann HU718/5 with O rings made in Germany. I picked mine up at Advance Auto Parts for $11.49.
When replacing the filter, after it seats in the housing, it isn't all the way on yet. The filter will have two black lines on the side of the element and it is on far enough when one of the lines disappear. To make it go on all the way, you twist and push at the same time (I think clockwise but the filter comes with a picture showing)
I purchased the Baum tools #120-0721 dip stick and it is for a 113 engine that is in the C55. It won't go all the way in the tube and you will feel it bottom in the pan.
I put almost 9 quarts in and am at 155mm. I suspect that 160 is full, but since the range is 135-160 I never want to take a chance of over filling.
The torque for the filter housing is on the housing so that's a no brainer.
Mobil 1 0W-40 is the correct factory fill oil.
Just trying to help fill in some blanks. Phil
The oil drain plugs get torqued to 30 nm.
Always replace the copper crush washers, they're cheap at the dealership.
Like has been mentioned, have both drain plugs out after the filter is removed to get all the old oil out that can drain.
ONLY use the fleece oil filters, the OEM filters are Mann HU718/5 and a Purolator L25277 is a Mann HU718/5 with O rings made in Germany. I picked mine up at Advance Auto Parts for $11.49.
When replacing the filter, after it seats in the housing, it isn't all the way on yet. The filter will have two black lines on the side of the element and it is on far enough when one of the lines disappear. To make it go on all the way, you twist and push at the same time (I think clockwise but the filter comes with a picture showing)
I purchased the Baum tools #120-0721 dip stick and it is for a 113 engine that is in the C55. It won't go all the way in the tube and you will feel it bottom in the pan.
I put almost 9 quarts in and am at 155mm. I suspect that 160 is full, but since the range is 135-160 I never want to take a chance of over filling.
The torque for the filter housing is on the housing so that's a no brainer.
Mobil 1 0W-40 is the correct factory fill oil.
Just trying to help fill in some blanks. Phil
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,564
Likes: 19
From: SoCal
98 Brilliant Silver E320 Wagon
There is more than one Mobil 1 0W-40. You want the one which says MB Spec 229.5 on the back label. It should say European Car Formula on front. You must use correct oil and filter if you want the car's computer to tell you when to change. Reg. oil + paper filter + long service cycle = sludge in engine. 
On Mann filter
Dealer - $22
autohausaz - $15
Napa - $12 (sometimes less but I don't know code. It's a repackaged Mann).
Site sponsor SilverArrow (see Group Purchases for deal) - $12 but you must buy 10.
Drain or siphon is personal preference. Drain as warm as possible. Convenience is nice if you have the money.
If you tighten filter housing by hand be sure to check for leaks after/during first drive.
BTW, if you wander into some of the forums for older models you find a lot of DIY stuff much of which is applicable to your models.
On Mann filter
Dealer - $22
autohausaz - $15
Napa - $12 (sometimes less but I don't know code. It's a repackaged Mann).
Site sponsor SilverArrow (see Group Purchases for deal) - $12 but you must buy 10.
Drain or siphon is personal preference. Drain as warm as possible. Convenience is nice if you have the money.
If you tighten filter housing by hand be sure to check for leaks after/during first drive.
BTW, if you wander into some of the forums for older models you find a lot of DIY stuff much of which is applicable to your models.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 695
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From: Delran, NJ
05 C55
oil filter is top front of the engine, drivers side. never used a wrench to remove or install the filter cap. using an extractor, i can change my oil in 15 mins, without changing out of work clothes. ive always used the 0-40 mobil 1, and the 000 180 26 09 fleece filter. 65xxx miles, and shes quiet as a mouse 
Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 125
Likes: 1
From: Chicago
2007 GL450 2005 C55 2002 C32 sold 2001 ML320 sold
As with many on the board, i have always done my own oil changes using a Mityvac and fleece filter. I also feel better knowing that Mobil 1 0W40 is the only oil ever used in the car for sure since i did it myself.
Same with the other fluids in the car - I do them all myself using the DIYs on this forum and using the recommended oils, filters and parts.
For brake fluid, i have used the Napa dot4+ every other year, but am definitely open to other suggestions for brake fluid.
Same with the other fluids in the car - I do them all myself using the DIYs on this forum and using the recommended oils, filters and parts.
For brake fluid, i have used the Napa dot4+ every other year, but am definitely open to other suggestions for brake fluid.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,564
Likes: 19
From: SoCal
98 Brilliant Silver E320 Wagon
As with many on the board, i have always done my own oil changes using a Mityvac and fleece filter. I also feel better knowing that Mobil 1 0W40 is the only oil ever used in the car for sure since i did it myself.
Same with the other fluids in the car - I do them all myself using the DIYs on this forum and using the recommended oils, filters and parts.
For brake fluid, i have used the Napa dot4+ every other year, but am definitely open to other suggestions for brake fluid.
Same with the other fluids in the car - I do them all myself using the DIYs on this forum and using the recommended oils, filters and parts.
For brake fluid, i have used the Napa dot4+ every other year, but am definitely open to other suggestions for brake fluid.
Former Vendor of MBWorld
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 3
From: Glendale Arizona
C55,SL55,C63
In all honestly I have a fear of jacks and jack stands. When I was younger I didnt. No real reason for the phobia, it just kind of came on. Now I just put the car on the shops lift and do the oil change. Its only a quick 10min deal.
I can totals see why someone would not want to change there own oil. In fact it may not be they dont, but they can't. Maybe you live on a hill, or the city. You know, places where its just not possible. Plus, dealing with old oil sucks.
I can totals see why someone would not want to change there own oil. In fact it may not be they dont, but they can't. Maybe you live on a hill, or the city. You know, places where its just not possible. Plus, dealing with old oil sucks.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
From: Middle of IL in a corn field
2006 C55 AMG White/Ash
When you get underneath a C55 and look at the shape of the oil pan and see the reason for two drain plugs, there is no way in the world you can get as much oil out by sucking it out from above, it's just physically impossible. Two belly pans and a couple drain plugs is no big deal. I would rather get out all the old oil I can and start as fresh as possible.
I really don't understand people saying "don't use a wrench on the filter housing" it has a flats on it for a reason, so a wrench can fit on it. It also has a torque spec molded into the plastic, which means you need a torque wrench and a correct filter housing wrench to tighten it properly.
I really don't understand people saying "don't use a wrench on the filter housing" it has a flats on it for a reason, so a wrench can fit on it. It also has a torque spec molded into the plastic, which means you need a torque wrench and a correct filter housing wrench to tighten it properly.
Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: MI/CA
C32 AMG
Alright, so I am in a pickle right now.
I just did the oil change and my car being as low as it is, its a pain in the *** to jack the thing up.
Not to mention taking off the pans again to re-drain the oil. But I put 8.5 quarts in stupidly without maybe putting 7 in and then checking the onboard, then filling.. etc.
So now my onboard says level is high and that I need to "reduce oil amount"
Other than jacking it up, removing the pans, and draining it.. is the only way around this to suck it all out?
Im kinda pissed at myself right now, but ya live and learn.
EDIT*
While searching for info on here, I realized this thread is for a c55. Is the amount of oil for the C32 still 8.5 quarts?
Hoping im only a little bit over the limit, but im not gonna drive it anywhere if its way over.
Thanks.
I just did the oil change and my car being as low as it is, its a pain in the *** to jack the thing up.
Not to mention taking off the pans again to re-drain the oil. But I put 8.5 quarts in stupidly without maybe putting 7 in and then checking the onboard, then filling.. etc.
So now my onboard says level is high and that I need to "reduce oil amount"
Other than jacking it up, removing the pans, and draining it.. is the only way around this to suck it all out?
Im kinda pissed at myself right now, but ya live and learn.
EDIT*
While searching for info on here, I realized this thread is for a c55. Is the amount of oil for the C32 still 8.5 quarts?
Hoping im only a little bit over the limit, but im not gonna drive it anywhere if its way over.
Thanks.
Last edited by papasmurf; May 26, 2010 at 01:06 AM.
Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: MI/CA
C32 AMG
I drained the oil from the drain plug (which the c32 only has 1 drain plug, right?)
Assuming I got all of the oil out of there, I then put in 8.5 qts...
Drove the car about 5 miles, got home, checked the oil level and it gave me the "reduce oil level".
Is the extra .5 qts going to blow my motor up? Should it be extracted before I drive the car 800 miles this weekend? What mityvac extractor would be recommended? I see an 8.8L one for $78.99 and a 7.2L one for $53.74..
If I have to drain the oil, Ill just have to park the car all weekend and borrow the gas hog navigator from my Dad... (id prefer not to)
All in all, im aware of what kind of damage overfilling can do, however, will the amount I overfilled do such damage?
I just found info on the "dyno mode" in order to check oil level, but it doesnt seem consistent from what i've read... I may have to purchase an extractor and a dipstick.
Assuming I got all of the oil out of there, I then put in 8.5 qts...
Drove the car about 5 miles, got home, checked the oil level and it gave me the "reduce oil level".
Is the extra .5 qts going to blow my motor up? Should it be extracted before I drive the car 800 miles this weekend? What mityvac extractor would be recommended? I see an 8.8L one for $78.99 and a 7.2L one for $53.74..
If I have to drain the oil, Ill just have to park the car all weekend and borrow the gas hog navigator from my Dad... (id prefer not to)
All in all, im aware of what kind of damage overfilling can do, however, will the amount I overfilled do such damage?
I just found info on the "dyno mode" in order to check oil level, but it doesnt seem consistent from what i've read... I may have to purchase an extractor and a dipstick.
