C32 motor mounts toast, dealer trying to rip my face off, is there a DIY available?
#1
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C32 motor mounts toast, dealer trying to rip my face off, is there a DIY available?
So my motor mounts are pretty much gone. Mercedes Benz of Buckhead quoted me over $1000 to replace motor mounts and transmission mounts
Even my independent mechanic quoted over $800. Whats the deal?
Does anyone have a good DIY on replacing the motor mounts on a C32? Is this something I could do with the car on ramps? Any special tools required? Really dont feel like handing over almost a grand to switch out some rubber bits.
Even my independent mechanic quoted over $800. Whats the deal?
Does anyone have a good DIY on replacing the motor mounts on a C32? Is this something I could do with the car on ramps? Any special tools required? Really dont feel like handing over almost a grand to switch out some rubber bits.
#3
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From: Houston/ Austin /Toronto / UAE / Minneapolis / Orlando /Cincinnati
Eurocharged Performance ML63 and TT lambo
So my motor mounts are pretty much gone. Mercedes Benz of Buckhead quoted me over $1000 to replace motor mounts and transmission mounts
Even my independent mechanic quoted over $800. Whats the deal?
Does anyone have a good DIY on replacing the motor mounts on a C32? Is this something I could do with the car on ramps? Any special tools required? Really dont feel like handing over almost a grand to switch out some rubber bits.
Even my independent mechanic quoted over $800. Whats the deal?
Does anyone have a good DIY on replacing the motor mounts on a C32? Is this something I could do with the car on ramps? Any special tools required? Really dont feel like handing over almost a grand to switch out some rubber bits.
#4
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These mounts are hydraulic, not just a rubber mount like other cars have. Just to give you some insight on why they are more expensive. I just did mine as well so I know they are expensive.
#5
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#6
IIRC, someone on here disconnected there's and jacked the engine up with a floor jack to install headers. Maybe this would be a possibility to change the motor mounts as well. Just a thought...
#7
I did my mounts also. I was unable to find a DIY so I went for it and it took like 3 hours. Getting the top bolts loose was the most difficult due to limited space.
I found that it was easier once I removed the bottom 2 MM bolts first, then lift the engine up as high as possible with a floor jack and a block of 2x4. I cut a piece of 2x4 so that it would fit perfectly between the cross-member and sway-bar to lift the engine by the oil pan. Once the engine is up high I was able to reach the top mm bolts easier (although still really a pain in the ***) I believe they were a 5/8 wrench. good to know "before" since its really hard to try out different wrenches at that weird angle.
I got the 2 mounts loose but then had another issue - how to get them physically out of that tight spot. exhause was blocking them to the rear. I removed the sway-bar mounting bolts and was able to swing the sway-bar out enough to swap out the passenger side easily. the drivers side had to be wedged between the cross-member and the power steering pump. that was not easy. However, I had reinstalled the passenger mount first which sadly limited how much I could move the motor. Had I left both mounts off, it would have been possible to slide past the power steering more easily.
I would probably be able to re-do this procedure in no time if I were to do it again.
Also, do not buy cheap ebay motor mounts. I'm about to replace mine again since the cheap ones allow a lot of engine vibration to shake the whole car. the motor is almost resting on the sway bar with these crappy mounts!
good luck!
~mike~
I found that it was easier once I removed the bottom 2 MM bolts first, then lift the engine up as high as possible with a floor jack and a block of 2x4. I cut a piece of 2x4 so that it would fit perfectly between the cross-member and sway-bar to lift the engine by the oil pan. Once the engine is up high I was able to reach the top mm bolts easier (although still really a pain in the ***) I believe they were a 5/8 wrench. good to know "before" since its really hard to try out different wrenches at that weird angle.
I got the 2 mounts loose but then had another issue - how to get them physically out of that tight spot. exhause was blocking them to the rear. I removed the sway-bar mounting bolts and was able to swing the sway-bar out enough to swap out the passenger side easily. the drivers side had to be wedged between the cross-member and the power steering pump. that was not easy. However, I had reinstalled the passenger mount first which sadly limited how much I could move the motor. Had I left both mounts off, it would have been possible to slide past the power steering more easily.
I would probably be able to re-do this procedure in no time if I were to do it again.
Also, do not buy cheap ebay motor mounts. I'm about to replace mine again since the cheap ones allow a lot of engine vibration to shake the whole car. the motor is almost resting on the sway bar with these crappy mounts!
good luck!
~mike~
Last edited by mikekuriger; 06-02-2010 at 02:40 PM.
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#10
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From: Atlanta, GA
SLK32
Contact MBENZMAN on this site. Rich has a shop in Atlanta and he has done the vast majority of work on my car. The only downside is Rich has moved his shop rather far out.
#14
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2010 C300, 2012 Mustang
Eh, IDK if I would do this myself for the first time. I recommend looking around for another shop that's cheaper. If you install these poorly you might end up with more damage than the original 800
#15
#16
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Here are the quotes as they stand now
MB of Buckhead $1200
Independent shop 1: $800
Independent shop 2: $672
Independent shop 3: $700
still looking
#19
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With bad motor mounts you'll get a lot of vibration in park. You can really feel it through the steering wheel. I was also experiencing excessive vibration driving in lower gears until the engine reached operating temperature. Had my local dealer do the job for $800 including the mounts.