Rudamentz

Hello,

My car has developed some issues which I am having no luck narrowing down.
Any help would be much appreciated! I have a friend who is a mechanic and we can fix whatever the issue is, just having a hard time deriving what exactly it is.

Miles: 160K
Year: 2003
Model: C32 AMG

Problems:
Extremely rough idle and
If i try accelerate any harder than what you would do say in a grocery parking lot, all power is lost, CEL comes on and blinks at me and engine shakes and wants to stall. If i stop and turn the car off and back on the engine goes back to what how it was before i accelerated and caused the cut out.

History of repairs:
IC Pump replaced at 80K miles

All plugs new


Error Codes:
P0120 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Malfunction
P0172 System too Rich (Bank 1) )
P0444 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Open
P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
P0300 (Random Misfire)


Thanks again for any help.

arekux

could be bad coil packs or spark plug wires.

mikekuriger

hah, well it "could" be anything. but probably a simple sensor such as MAP or IAT or TPS.

Dingleberry

Something is causing his car to misfire on both banks (1,3,6 and 2,4,5).

It's most probably one of the things that you mentioned and least likely to be something that affects one bank such as a fried O2 sensor, plug wires, coil packs, or a gasket leak.

He's also too rich on bank 1, so it's probably good idea to change both primary O2 sensors anyways...

Rudamentz

Really appreciate the help. I will try attacking the sensors first and let you know how I fare!

Thanks again!

loudandheard

I hope it's not your cams. Be very careful how you drive it, because you may blow the engine. I'm right at 150k miles and I'm hoping that the engine will last well over 200k miles. Do you have any performance mods? Check out this thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...2002-c32s.html

c32used

Ok I had misfires on certain cylinders but most noticeable on track it was plugs that were out of recommended gap...yours may be really bad to start rough from get go...I suggest check all your plugs first prior to changing sensors...make sure your getting proper spark from wires and coils...the rest may fall into play..good luck


DO NOT TRUST PRE-GAPPED PLUGS! WHILE BEING SHIPPED MAY GET OUT OF GAP.

Rudamentz

So i replaced the IAT prior to reading last post, no biggie it looked in bad shape any how. I then did a controlled test as best as i could.

Accelerating gently we were doing good, shifting clean , and steady until
my speed got to around 50-60 miles an hour.

Then the standard choke up and loss of power and CEL turns on and blinks.

Additional point of note, I am listening hard to hear any sembalance of my supercharger whistling and hear absolutely nothing through out the entire trip of 10 miles.

What do yall think the next test should be to further narrow in on the problem?

Much obliged.

Rudamentz

c32used

Hmmm so now it's more evident on higher load...mine was like that and it was the plugs..I suggest plugs gapping next

Rudamentz

I will pursue the gap route next and let you know how it goes.
Thanks!

Rudamentz

No Mods, and its a 2003, hopefully that makes me safe

1fastM-B

My C32 that is currently in the shop had the same symtoms your car has.

First, I started noticing a rough idle while not moving in drive.

After this persisted for a few weeks, One day while accelerating hard getting on the freeway. I threw a CEL that stared out by blinking and then went solid.

My code reader came back with:
P0300 Multiple Cyl Misfires

P0301 Cyl 1
P0302 2
P0303 3
P0304 4
P0306 6

(Research told me blinking CEL with regards to P0300 means the Misfire Monitor detected more than a 10% variance in the RPM between the cylinders) Prolonged, this can damage you cats.

Right away, im thinking why would it be misfiring on both heads?

After reading the forums with regards to similar issues, my first plan of attack was to change the plugs and wires. This however, made no difference to the idle and CEL.

Next was the fuel filter. I figured it needed to be changed anyway since my car has 110,000 miles on it. After the replacment: No difference, idle was still rough and CEL came on with 75%+ throttle.

I also noticed in gear while stationary, that the exhaust didn't sound quite right. It sounded like it was panting.

The next day, I ran a compression test and all the cylinders they were all between 145-155 PSI. Except #5 was at 50 PSI

The next step was to put oil in the cylinder and see how high it would raise.
That brought it up to 90 PSI. I knew right away it was the piston

After I found out this great bit of info, I took the car to my mechanic and he tore the heads off and found they were not the real issue.

Next, he pulled the motor and low and behold, the compression ring on #5 was cracked all the way down. (Ill post pics when I get the piston from the mechanic) He also said this was the reason why I was noticing oil dripping down from in front of the transmisson and the rear main. The blow-by from the piston back into the crankcase was causing an oil leak.

Keeping the long story somewhat short, they had to order a M112K piston from Germany since they are nowhere to be found from MBZ stateside. (That took 7days to arrive) and he found another piston that needed a new set of rings so he ordered one of those too.

Also he had the valves grinded along with a new water pump.

If all goes to plan I should get my car back tomorrow!!!!!

Please dont ask how much this all is going to cost me!! Lol

I recommend putting blocks in front of the rear wheels and listening to the exhaust while in gear. Check for any panting noises
PS: Put the E-Brake on really well

I give up

Sounds like my trouble. I don't know how you get away with replacing a piston and a few rings? This has happened twice to me and both times my engine had to be removed and sent off to an engineering firm who confirmed the damage to the cylinder walls required machining and an entire set of oversize pistons and rings (complete rebuild basically). The quote was so high that it worked out cheaper to buy a used engine from a wreck. Let me save you some time and money - sell your car immediately after it has been repaired! My second motor blew 4 months after I had it installed by AMG - exactly the same thing again. The biggest worry is that no-one can tell me why this has happened twice. My car ran standard mods - pulley, tune, exhaust, filters. My C32 is almost finished getting it's 3rd engine installed, but will not be coming home from AMG as it has to be sold on their floor because I can no longer afford to keep paying like this. Best of luck, but listen to someone who knows serious car pain - sell it.

francoisisp

find a memeber near you (check out the e55 side) with a star diag and star finder and you will fix your problem right there if you get the fault code on star diag and input it to star finder you wil be able to narrow it down for you. or if you are willing to spend a few bucks take the car to the dealearship ask them you would like to get a quote on what it will cost to fixt the car they will do all the checks and run you the quote with all the parts needed then you take the car and swap the parts yourself and you are set......... this method saved me allot of trying to figure it out and buying parts i didnt need just my $0.02

Rudamentz

Hello alls!

Replaced Wires, Replaced IAT, Replaced MAP.

All codes gone, 1 new code has appeared and idle very lumpy

P2016-002 Self-Adaptation of mixture formation for right bank cylinders is at limit value (at part load). Enleanment below permissable limit (P0172)

Additionally I never hear my supercharger anymore at all.
I feel like its not working.

Any ideas or suggestions much appreciated as always.

P.S. the MAP sensor is a P.I.T.A i tell ya.

c32used

Don't know if you got it fixed but if you don't hear your SC then best way to tell is if car moving fast or is it like limp mode? Maybe it's your IC pump but in most cases if it's that then SC should turn on while cold but then as one keeps driving car warms then it stops working thus limp mode...the P0172 sounds like a fuel/tune issue