C32 AMG, C55 AMG (W203) 2001 - 2007

Ugh...first problem after warranty came up. Battery/Alternator warning

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Old 08-04-2011, 08:07 PM
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2018 E63S AMG, 2003 SLK 230 Sport, 2004 SL 600, 2006 SLK 55 AMG, 1998 E320 Wagon
Ugh...first problem after warranty came up. Battery/Alternator warning

So, what could this mean, gentlemen? The pullies are all spinning fine, but the light came on during relatively heavy load.

Nothing seems to be acting up. Is it possible the alernator's failing? What kind of cost am I looking at? Oh, and I do know of a good 3rd party Mercedes authorized repair shop. I should be good taking it there versus a stealership, right?

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Old 08-04-2011, 08:26 PM
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I had my alternator replaced at 51,000 miles (right after warranty was over) and it was about $800.
Old 08-04-2011, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mikekuriger
I had my alternator replaced at 51,000 miles (right after warranty was over) and it was about $800.
Please tell me that was at a stealership. Also, I'm at 103,000 miles so I guess I'm doing better than others...
Old 08-04-2011, 08:51 PM
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First if you have a amp clamp you can test the output at the poss batt cable coming of the alt.. also check the voltage when running..you should have max amperage of the alt at 2k rpm and at idle you should have 13-14 volts.. Do both test cold then hot.. make sure you do it hot because benz alts. mostly fail at higher temp...

its probablay just the voltage regulator... if when it gets warm the voltage starts to fall and charge at 11-12.5 volts than you need a regulator not the whole alt ... they are replaceable separate from the alt....

you would be amazed how many alts are repalaced when all was needed was a voltage regulator ...... just a hint from your scummy "stealership" tech.
Old 08-04-2011, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by hcetzneb
First if you have a amp clamp you can test the output at the poss batt cable coming of the alt.. also check the voltage when running..you should have max amperage of the alt at 2k rpm and at idle you should have 13-14 volts.. Do both test cold then hot.. make sure you do it hot because benz alts. mostly fail at higher temp...

its probablay just the voltage regulator... if when it gets warm the voltage starts to fall and charge at 11-12.5 volts than you need a regulator not the whole alt ... they are replaceable separate from the alt....

you would be amazed how many alts are repalaced when all was needed was a voltage regulator ...... just a hint from your scummy "stealership" tech.
Hey man, I'm not saying you're the bad guy. :p But some dealerships 'are' notorious...
Old 08-04-2011, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by hcetzneb
First if you have a amp clamp you can test the output at the poss batt cable coming of the alt.. also check the voltage when running..you should have max amperage of the alt at 2k rpm and at idle you should have 13-14 volts.. Do both test cold then hot.. make sure you do it hot because benz alts. mostly fail at higher temp...

its probablay just the voltage regulator... if when it gets warm the voltage starts to fall and charge at 11-12.5 volts than you need a regulator not the whole alt ... they are replaceable separate from the alt....

you would be amazed how many alts are repalaced when all was needed was a voltage regulator ...... just a hint from your scummy "stealership" tech.
You speak the truth, this is common to most Benz's. I've experienced voltage regulator failure on the 300E and C43 AMG I had before the C55 and I replaced the vr on it at about 60k, before it gave out.
Old 08-04-2011, 11:44 PM
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Something to note when thinking about preventative maintenance. There was actually a DIY that the W211 E55 guys had posted not too long ago. Not sure how applicable it is to the W203s since I actually have never had to do it.
Old 08-05-2011, 01:26 AM
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Well...I guess I'll know by tomorrow. :/ Wish me luck.
Old 08-05-2011, 01:36 AM
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The voltage regulator is a normal wear part. I'm on my third one. Changing it is simple on a W208 CLK. It's probably the same on a W203.
Old 08-05-2011, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by hcetzneb
you would be amazed how many alts are repalaced when all was needed was a voltage regulator ...... just a hint from your scummy "stealership" tech.
Yeah, I had a similar problem: I was driving at night (with my wife on the passenger seat) in the middle of the Turnpike, when the central display showed a warning "Alternator Malfunction", and then the steering wheel started to go numb. Running at 70mph it was not wise to stay on the fast lane, so I immediately pulled away to the right shoulder. I called the tow (my wife was so happy: one of her dreams was to ride on a tow truck) and dropped the Benz to the dealership at 8PM (night drop-offs are useful). The mechanic called me the next morning telling that the issue was the belt, it broke. The cost of the fix would be 18 hundred. When I purchased the car I also bought an extended bumper to bumper warranty so they assumed most of the cost and I had to pay only 81 bucks in the end.

I mean, $1800 for a belt replacement? I can buy a LED TV with that!
Old 08-05-2011, 12:42 PM
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1800 for a belt? The hell??? There's no problem with the serpentine, so that's fine....but that sounds retarded. I think I'm just going to take the car to a 3rd party specialist.
Old 08-05-2011, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by LuisC55AMG
Yeah, I had a similar problem: I was driving at night (with my wife on the passenger seat) in the middle of the Turnpike, when the central display showed a warning "Alternator Malfunction", and then the steering wheel started to go numb. Running at 70mph it was not wise to stay on the fast lane, so I immediately pulled away to the right shoulder. I called the tow (my wife was so happy: one of her dreams was to ride on a tow truck) and dropped the Benz to the dealership at 8PM (night drop-offs are useful). The mechanic called me the next morning telling that the issue was the belt, it broke. The cost of the fix would be 18 hundred. When I purchased the car I also bought an extended bumper to bumper warranty so they assumed most of the cost and I had to pay only 81 bucks in the end.

I mean, $1800 for a belt replacement? I can buy a LED TV with that!
Other things must've occurred as well. The belt is like a $60 part. Getting the broken belt out and replacing with a new one would be a $200 job, tops.

When I had an idler-pulley failure, the entire repair was in the ballpark of $1,800 (from an MB specialist indy) because the idler sheared off the waterpump-housing mount and they replaced the WP as well. The idler also trashed the oil cooler, so that had to be replaced. Etc etc.

When the pulley failed and sheared off, the first symptom was the "batt/alt" warning message... pulled over, popped the hood, and the belt was off, along with the idler and subsequent carnage.

My point is, no way was a "we replaced your broken belt with a new one, but that's all we did" a $1,800 job. My $0.02.
Old 08-06-2011, 10:50 PM
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damn, I was able to replace my belt in the driveway for the cost of the belt + 10 minutes of my time.
Old 08-08-2011, 11:09 AM
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I invite your attention:

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...lternator.html

Again, this is for the W211 E55 and I'm not sure how much would be applicable to the W203s.......
Old 12-28-2012, 10:01 AM
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Help!!!!
Hello everyone, can someone please provide some feedback on this tread, last night while idling my E55 in the garage I smelled a faint burning scent, popped the hood and could not find nor describe the source of this burning smell, however, after checking the forum on the matter it's come to my attention that the alternator/voltage regulator could be on it's way out, convienience message comes on and off now so i know there is low voltage (11.1v) sometimes a bit less, here's my question,,, if, it is the regulator thats bad, would I still get the burning smell???? Or is the burning smell a clear sign that the alternator itself is toasted internally....feedback please!!!!!!!

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