Dyno today finally, a little disappointed.
#26
Is there another way to check the A/F ratio without having an extra bung in the exhaust for a wideband O2 sensor? I thought I read somewhere for adding a guage that bung would need to go before the primary cats and I'm not sure there is enough room to get in there and weld one in. MBH did extend the group buy on the long tubes until Friday, so I may just have to make it work. I'll have to find a quote on installation.
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2016 Chevrolet SS, 2006 Cadillac STS-V
Brandon insists I don't need a tune. Got a rare early day today and went to another shop that's closer and he installed a bung after the y-pipe and I'm definately running safely! Also running at 7psi. First run was done in 3rd by accident. Video is of the third run.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qCC_Dy5Q_uA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qCC_Dy5Q_uA
#32
[QUOTE=91RS;4953015]Brandon insists I don't need a tune. Got a rare early day today and went to another shop that's closer and he installed a bung after the y-pipe and I'm definately running safely! Also running at 7psi. First run was done in 3rd by accident. Video is of the third run.
Even assuming my dyno is HIGH at Kleemann USA and is 10 % high, Your #s are way low for that car. Your car should be OVER 400 HP at rear wheels. I suggest more work and a tune. AFR s are out of whack too.
Even assuming my dyno is HIGH at Kleemann USA and is 10 % high, Your #s are way low for that car. Your car should be OVER 400 HP at rear wheels. I suggest more work and a tune. AFR s are out of whack too.
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2016 Chevrolet SS, 2006 Cadillac STS-V
I guess I just need to open my exhaust up more. Does anyone have a recommendation for high flow cats that won't set of the check engine light?
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2008 A8L, 2002 996TT X50, 2009 X5
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I agree, like I said before, something is a miss.
I put down 311whp in my 01 CLK55 with just a quick tune, Only gained 5whp from the tune to boot.
Your version of the M113 has a 20hp bump to start with, and now add as supercharger and you end up with only about 50hp more?
Just doesn't seem right.
I put down 311whp in my 01 CLK55 with just a quick tune, Only gained 5whp from the tune to boot.
Your version of the M113 has a 20hp bump to start with, and now add as supercharger and you end up with only about 50hp more?
Just doesn't seem right.
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I'm updating this thread, I FINALLY made it out to a drag strip. My best run was 12.865 @ 108.36mph. I still haven't done the Kleemann headers and high flows yet. I'm really happy with that because I was faster than a CLK63 (with some Kleemann stuff) and a CTS-V that were there running. Neither of them did burn-outs to heat the tires though. I managed to get staged with the CLK63 twice and of course I had bad starts on both of those runs (first one the traction control decided to cut the throttle and the second I forgot to put the traction control back on after the burn-out). I'll scan the time sheets tomorrow at work.
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Here are all my slips from last night. I was in the left lane until the last run. The first four were pretty much back to back with my buddy in a Cobalt SS Turbo. After that I had some bad starts, t/c kept cutting the throttle completely and then I forgot to turn t/c back on after my burnout on the slowest one, then I got another good run on the last one. I was also happy with how consistant the the back to back runs were, it took a little over an hour to get there and the car sat for about 30 minutes before we started.
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I ran with it on. When it's "off" it just spins, which led to the 14.528 run. I've got a Quaife now waiting for me to install, so I think that should help with the traction completely cutting the throttle. I washed the car today and there was more tire shreds on the left side than the right.
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C63 507 AMG DA Car #19
A couple comments from my klee-clk experiences:
1. AFR looks similar to mine. I got a zietronics AFR meter for my car with a display in the dash to keep an eye on things.
2. Dyno HP is not so useful for quantitative comparison between diff dyno's from diff parts of the country at diff elevations.... because there are correction factors that shops put in to correct for elevation, sales/marketing, etc.... so take that with a grain of salt. The truest ind of HP is your trap speed.... I would compare your mph in the 1/4 with other klee cars to check your HP...... (caveat...if you have alot of tire spin in the 60' then this method loses value).
3. Congrats on putting this in yourself! I assume you installed the dc-dc inverter and the adj FMU and the adj MAS rheostat box..... these are all adjustable for FINE tuning..... and you have to be very careful when fine tuning these cars...... but it can be done. You have the control without a tune to fine-tune the AFR visa vie: Dc-Dc inverter controls at what boost pressure the extra voltage hits the stock fuel pump..... Adj FMU controls at what boost the extra back pressure is added to the fuel system...... and adj rheostat controls the mas air meter voltage to trick the computer into thinking diff amt of air flow. stock setting is 600kohm.... you turn the screw to crank up or down the ohms. You must do all of these fine tuning adj with a wideband.... and preferrably a dyno or a private road to load testing.
4. Exhaust - the cond/mlg of your stock primary cats will effect your HP.... esp on a blown car. You next mod should be headers/downpipes/tune to take adv of this mod. all IMHO.
If you're into tinkering/data-logging (and it sounds like it) here are a few useful things to monitor:
1. MAS voltage - you can tap into the mas signal voltage line where you install the klee rheo box.... monitor voltage to be sure you are not pegging out the meter.
2. Fuel Pressure - you can install a mech quality fuel press gage to the fuel rail..... i temp installed an autometer mech fuel press gage on the windshield for tuning purposes.. you can monitor when fuel press spikes under load, nice for fine tuning the ADJ FMU.
3. Boost - you can install a mech boost gage. I temp installed an autometer mech boost gage on my windshield for tuning purposes... nice to see when/how much boost you are getting.... amazed at how much boost off idle these put out!..... it's good to check this periodically to be sure all is well no belt slip etc...
4. DAS Star - you can get a chinese knock-off for cheap and check fuel trims (and other things)...... your fuel trims will tell you how close your tune is and if it having to compensate at off idle, part throttle etc.....
5. Zietronics wideband (in-car) - invaluable tool for data-logging, troubleshooting, and verify health of tune.
6. I changed my 1st set of plugs after 5K miles and they were pretty rough...... I suspect due to tuning challenges with my car...... I would check your plugs after next service for pc of mind. My car really woke up with the 2nd set of plugs.
Oh a final thing.. you tq looks very good.... I would not get too hung up on the hp numbers on this dyno. Enjoy laying waste to most high perf street cars... tq wins in the end.
1. AFR looks similar to mine. I got a zietronics AFR meter for my car with a display in the dash to keep an eye on things.
2. Dyno HP is not so useful for quantitative comparison between diff dyno's from diff parts of the country at diff elevations.... because there are correction factors that shops put in to correct for elevation, sales/marketing, etc.... so take that with a grain of salt. The truest ind of HP is your trap speed.... I would compare your mph in the 1/4 with other klee cars to check your HP...... (caveat...if you have alot of tire spin in the 60' then this method loses value).
3. Congrats on putting this in yourself! I assume you installed the dc-dc inverter and the adj FMU and the adj MAS rheostat box..... these are all adjustable for FINE tuning..... and you have to be very careful when fine tuning these cars...... but it can be done. You have the control without a tune to fine-tune the AFR visa vie: Dc-Dc inverter controls at what boost pressure the extra voltage hits the stock fuel pump..... Adj FMU controls at what boost the extra back pressure is added to the fuel system...... and adj rheostat controls the mas air meter voltage to trick the computer into thinking diff amt of air flow. stock setting is 600kohm.... you turn the screw to crank up or down the ohms. You must do all of these fine tuning adj with a wideband.... and preferrably a dyno or a private road to load testing.
4. Exhaust - the cond/mlg of your stock primary cats will effect your HP.... esp on a blown car. You next mod should be headers/downpipes/tune to take adv of this mod. all IMHO.
If you're into tinkering/data-logging (and it sounds like it) here are a few useful things to monitor:
1. MAS voltage - you can tap into the mas signal voltage line where you install the klee rheo box.... monitor voltage to be sure you are not pegging out the meter.
2. Fuel Pressure - you can install a mech quality fuel press gage to the fuel rail..... i temp installed an autometer mech fuel press gage on the windshield for tuning purposes.. you can monitor when fuel press spikes under load, nice for fine tuning the ADJ FMU.
3. Boost - you can install a mech boost gage. I temp installed an autometer mech boost gage on my windshield for tuning purposes... nice to see when/how much boost you are getting.... amazed at how much boost off idle these put out!..... it's good to check this periodically to be sure all is well no belt slip etc...
4. DAS Star - you can get a chinese knock-off for cheap and check fuel trims (and other things)...... your fuel trims will tell you how close your tune is and if it having to compensate at off idle, part throttle etc.....
5. Zietronics wideband (in-car) - invaluable tool for data-logging, troubleshooting, and verify health of tune.
6. I changed my 1st set of plugs after 5K miles and they were pretty rough...... I suspect due to tuning challenges with my car...... I would check your plugs after next service for pc of mind. My car really woke up with the 2nd set of plugs.
Oh a final thing.. you tq looks very good.... I would not get too hung up on the hp numbers on this dyno. Enjoy laying waste to most high perf street cars... tq wins in the end.
Last edited by betrezra; 04-01-2012 at 06:28 AM.
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Another note after studying that AFR graph....... my car had the same dip in AFR like yours. A tune will allow you to take that dip out (which is robbing HP) and keep the AFR safe in other spots.
I recall cory discussing this when he had my car in his shop.
If you want turn-key... I'd take a road trip to klee-co USA and have cory work his magic. He's a great guy to work with.
I recall cory discussing this when he had my car in his shop.
If you want turn-key... I'd take a road trip to klee-co USA and have cory work his magic. He's a great guy to work with.
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2016 Chevrolet SS, 2006 Cadillac STS-V
A couple comments from my klee-clk experiences:
1. AFR looks similar to mine. I got a zietronics AFR meter for my car with a display in the dash to keep an eye on things.
2. Dyno HP is not so useful for quantitative comparison between diff dyno's from diff parts of the country at diff elevations.... because there are correction factors that shops put in to correct for elevation, sales/marketing, etc.... so take that with a grain of salt. The truest ind of HP is your trap speed.... I would compare your mph in the 1/4 with other klee cars to check your HP...... (caveat...if you have alot of tire spin in the 60' then this method loses value).
3. Congrats on putting this in yourself! I assume you installed the dc-dc inverter and the adj FMU and the adj MAS rheostat box..... these are all adjustable for FINE tuning..... and you have to be very careful when fine tuning these cars...... but it can be done. You have the control without a tune to fine-tune the AFR visa vie: Dc-Dc inverter controls at what boost pressure the extra voltage hits the stock fuel pump..... Adj FMU controls at what boost the extra back pressure is added to the fuel system...... and adj rheostat controls the mas air meter voltage to trick the computer into thinking diff amt of air flow. stock setting is 600kohm.... you turn the screw to crank up or down the ohms. You must do all of these fine tuning adj with a wideband.... and preferrably a dyno or a private road to load testing.
4. Exhaust - the cond/mlg of your stock primary cats will effect your HP.... esp on a blown car. You next mod should be headers/downpipes/tune to take adv of this mod. all IMHO.
If you're into tinkering/data-logging (and it sounds like it) here are a few useful things to monitor:
1. MAS voltage - you can tap into the mas signal voltage line where you install the klee rheo box.... monitor voltage to be sure you are not pegging out the meter.
2. Fuel Pressure - you can install a mech quality fuel press gage to the fuel rail..... i temp installed an autometer mech fuel press gage on the windshield for tuning purposes.. you can monitor when fuel press spikes under load, nice for fine tuning the ADJ FMU.
3. Boost - you can install a mech boost gage. I temp installed an autometer mech boost gage on my windshield for tuning purposes... nice to see when/how much boost you are getting.... amazed at how much boost off idle these put out!..... it's good to check this periodically to be sure all is well no belt slip etc...
4. DAS Star - you can get a chinese knock-off for cheap and check fuel trims (and other things)...... your fuel trims will tell you how close your tune is and if it having to compensate at off idle, part throttle etc.....
5. Zietronics wideband (in-car) - invaluable tool for data-logging, troubleshooting, and verify health of tune.
6. I changed my 1st set of plugs after 5K miles and they were pretty rough...... I suspect due to tuning challenges with my car...... I would check your plugs after next service for pc of mind. My car really woke up with the 2nd set of plugs.
Oh a final thing.. you tq looks very good.... I would not get too hung up on the hp numbers on this dyno. Enjoy laying waste to most high perf street cars... tq wins in the end.
1. AFR looks similar to mine. I got a zietronics AFR meter for my car with a display in the dash to keep an eye on things.
2. Dyno HP is not so useful for quantitative comparison between diff dyno's from diff parts of the country at diff elevations.... because there are correction factors that shops put in to correct for elevation, sales/marketing, etc.... so take that with a grain of salt. The truest ind of HP is your trap speed.... I would compare your mph in the 1/4 with other klee cars to check your HP...... (caveat...if you have alot of tire spin in the 60' then this method loses value).
3. Congrats on putting this in yourself! I assume you installed the dc-dc inverter and the adj FMU and the adj MAS rheostat box..... these are all adjustable for FINE tuning..... and you have to be very careful when fine tuning these cars...... but it can be done. You have the control without a tune to fine-tune the AFR visa vie: Dc-Dc inverter controls at what boost pressure the extra voltage hits the stock fuel pump..... Adj FMU controls at what boost the extra back pressure is added to the fuel system...... and adj rheostat controls the mas air meter voltage to trick the computer into thinking diff amt of air flow. stock setting is 600kohm.... you turn the screw to crank up or down the ohms. You must do all of these fine tuning adj with a wideband.... and preferrably a dyno or a private road to load testing.
4. Exhaust - the cond/mlg of your stock primary cats will effect your HP.... esp on a blown car. You next mod should be headers/downpipes/tune to take adv of this mod. all IMHO.
If you're into tinkering/data-logging (and it sounds like it) here are a few useful things to monitor:
1. MAS voltage - you can tap into the mas signal voltage line where you install the klee rheo box.... monitor voltage to be sure you are not pegging out the meter.
2. Fuel Pressure - you can install a mech quality fuel press gage to the fuel rail..... i temp installed an autometer mech fuel press gage on the windshield for tuning purposes.. you can monitor when fuel press spikes under load, nice for fine tuning the ADJ FMU.
3. Boost - you can install a mech boost gage. I temp installed an autometer mech boost gage on my windshield for tuning purposes... nice to see when/how much boost you are getting.... amazed at how much boost off idle these put out!..... it's good to check this periodically to be sure all is well no belt slip etc...
4. DAS Star - you can get a chinese knock-off for cheap and check fuel trims (and other things)...... your fuel trims will tell you how close your tune is and if it having to compensate at off idle, part throttle etc.....
5. Zietronics wideband (in-car) - invaluable tool for data-logging, troubleshooting, and verify health of tune.
6. I changed my 1st set of plugs after 5K miles and they were pretty rough...... I suspect due to tuning challenges with my car...... I would check your plugs after next service for pc of mind. My car really woke up with the 2nd set of plugs.
Oh a final thing.. you tq looks very good.... I would not get too hung up on the hp numbers on this dyno. Enjoy laying waste to most high perf street cars... tq wins in the end.
I was disappointed about the numbers to begin with, but it was my fault for not being able to get a before dyno so I don't really know what the gain was. The only problem with comparing my 1/4 mile times to other cars is I think I'm the only one that has done the supercharger without the headers at the same time! Then probably half of those people do the cams too, but I don't think I'm going to even worry about those.
My version of the kit no longer uses the DC inverter. It still uses the same fuel pressure regulator but it uses a secondary fuel pump instead of the inverter and it all goes under the hood.
My next mod was supposed to be the Kleeman headers, but I found a good deal on a Quaife so I snagged that instead. In all honesty, as much as I do want to get over that 400whp mark, I really need the Quaife more. Brandon also told me once I get the headers, I can also run more aggressive timing.
I also still have a Eurocharged tune that I've paid for that I'm not using now, so maybe I can do some remote dyno tuning with them, too. I'll just have to wait and see what happens after I get the headers on. I've almost got the car paid for, so I'll probably do that first and then get the headers. I still don't know if I'm going to have to pay someone to install the headers (one of the local Benz dealers is also a Kleemann dealer, but I havn't called for a quote yet) or cut the exhaust and install them myself and then either tow it or drive it with open headers to an exhaust shop.
Last edited by 91RS; 04-01-2012 at 09:42 AM.
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C63 507 AMG DA Car #19
##$##
91rs... you got this under control...... nice build.
I'll be curious to see if your measured boost drops after the header install.
I know ported heads drop boost, curious if the hi flow headers/downpipes do the same.
Nice car.
I'll be curious to see if your measured boost drops after the header install.
I know ported heads drop boost, curious if the hi flow headers/downpipes do the same.
Nice car.
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Hopefully!
I'll try and remember to have it measured again when I do the dyno after the headers.
I'll be curious to see if your measured boost drops after the header install.
I know ported heads drop boost, curious if the hi flow headers/downpipes do the same.
Nice car.
I know ported heads drop boost, curious if the hi flow headers/downpipes do the same.
Nice car.
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Not trying to be a negative Nancy, but those times seem very slow to me.
What is your elevation? GUessing it was also quite hot. As I am trapping very similiar to you and I am not supercharged.
My 60' was a tad better, but I did have a Higher ET, I can probably attribute that to the 30 mph headwind that day.
However, even the BS ran rather slow, so I am guessing the elevation and weather had a huge part to play in it.
EDITid look up the D/A on you 12.8 run, it was hover around 2500FT, definitely not ideal, I ran in 1200FT, so that would play part of the roll. Adjusted for D/A using drag times, the times are still pretty close.
Good luck!
What is your elevation? GUessing it was also quite hot. As I am trapping very similiar to you and I am not supercharged.
My 60' was a tad better, but I did have a Higher ET, I can probably attribute that to the 30 mph headwind that day.
However, even the BS ran rather slow, so I am guessing the elevation and weather had a huge part to play in it.
EDITid look up the D/A on you 12.8 run, it was hover around 2500FT, definitely not ideal, I ran in 1200FT, so that would play part of the roll. Adjusted for D/A using drag times, the times are still pretty close.
Good luck!
Last edited by Nachtsturm; 04-02-2012 at 12:22 AM.