Boost Cut/Fuel Cut during extended high speed full throttle!
#1
Boost Cut/Fuel Cut during extended high speed full throttle!
My car is standard apart from SL55 full intake....but this problem happend once before this mod aswell
Sometimes during a decent high speed stretch with full throttle on/off 100mph+
I am getting as I can only describe as boost/fuel cut
The car just cuts power as if supercharger switching off
Sometimes the power comes back on - sometimes I need to stop and restart car and is back to normal again
It is the same symptom as Japanese turbo cars when you turn up the turbo boost and the ecu cuts the power so you need a fuel/boost cut defender to overcome this.
No faults on star
I fitted a new Johnson ic pump yesterday but it still did the problem last night.
The weather has been quite mild so is there a cut off if the air intake temps get too high or could the intake temp sensor be not right.
My car deff feels more lively with the new ic pump fitted.
Cheers
Sometimes during a decent high speed stretch with full throttle on/off 100mph+
I am getting as I can only describe as boost/fuel cut
The car just cuts power as if supercharger switching off
Sometimes the power comes back on - sometimes I need to stop and restart car and is back to normal again
It is the same symptom as Japanese turbo cars when you turn up the turbo boost and the ecu cuts the power so you need a fuel/boost cut defender to overcome this.
No faults on star
I fitted a new Johnson ic pump yesterday but it still did the problem last night.
The weather has been quite mild so is there a cut off if the air intake temps get too high or could the intake temp sensor be not right.
My car deff feels more lively with the new ic pump fitted.
Cheers
#2
Forgot to say there is no warning lights at all when it happens.
The only other modification I have done is the later spec grille which has larger openings so I can't see that causing a issue.
Cheers
The only other modification I have done is the later spec grille which has larger openings so I can't see that causing a issue.
Cheers
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
It can't be due to boost. If anything the boost will drop slightly with the SL intake since volumetric efficiency has improved a bit. Are you sure the wiring is still good from the pump install? Any air in the system?
#4
Wiring is perfect - made a good job of removing connectors and soldering wiring & heat shrink.
I used hose clamps so I only lost the amount of coolant in the pump.
I just topped up the resovior.
Is there a special procedure fr bleeding system properly?
Cheers
I used hose clamps so I only lost the amount of coolant in the pump.
I just topped up the resovior.
Is there a special procedure fr bleeding system properly?
Cheers
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
Yes, you are supposed to squeeze the return line to the pump to force air to run into the reservoir. Probably not a bad idea to do it, if the air went straight to the intercooler then it might still be there. There are some links on the site somewhere and a diagram since it is hard to describe.
#7
I managed to get this code using SNAP-ON SOLUS PRO diagnostic computer.
that was using system id mode.
no faults in OBD diagnostic mode - current or previous.
do you think this could be a issue?
that was using system id mode.
no faults in OBD diagnostic mode - current or previous.
do you think this could be a issue?
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#9
I wonder if the snap-on solus is telling lies?
i found this - P2027 Intake air temperature too high/Check coolant pump& additional radiator
so looks like i need to check if intercooler pump is actually working...(NEW PUMP FITTED LASTNIGHT)
does the pump run constantly with engine at idle?
i found this - P2027 Intake air temperature too high/Check coolant pump& additional radiator
so looks like i need to check if intercooler pump is actually working...(NEW PUMP FITTED LASTNIGHT)
does the pump run constantly with engine at idle?
#10
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Join Date: Mar 2004
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2002 C32 AMG, 2013 GLK 350/4, 2015 E63S AMG Wagon
Get an OBD2 real time scanner of some kind and log your boost and IATs. You can also get a CarChip from ebay for under $50. Well worth the money. If you are around north NJ I can lend you mine.
#11
Hey,
im in Scotland UK.
i fitted the new pump lastnight as i was hoping that would be the problem.
im sure i can log the data with the snap-on solus.
ill try that tonight.
i just want to double check that the new pump is running when it should....
ive searched loads.....
so when car is stationary and bring idle up to 2000rpm this should activate the pump yeah?
and keep running until engine is switched off?
CHEERS
im in Scotland UK.
i fitted the new pump lastnight as i was hoping that would be the problem.
im sure i can log the data with the snap-on solus.
ill try that tonight.
i just want to double check that the new pump is running when it should....
ive searched loads.....
so when car is stationary and bring idle up to 2000rpm this should activate the pump yeah?
and keep running until engine is switched off?
CHEERS
#12
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2002 C32 AMG, 2013 GLK 350/4, 2015 E63S AMG Wagon
Even if your pump is working you may still have an issue of not properly purging air from you system (or some other obstraction). Since you don't have a separated cooling system it should be very simple to insure that you let all potential air to get out of the system. Do that first before spending any more money. Also doublecheck the fuse for the pump. Not sure which one it is but there is a fuse.
#14
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2002 C32 AMG, 2013 GLK 350/4, 2015 E63S AMG Wagon
Start the car with the reservoir cap off and allow to idle until the thermostat opens. The coolant level should drop when the thermostat opens - air is escaping. Add more fluid slowly. Close the cap. Rev the engine to 3000rpm for 20 sec. Retudn to idle for 1 min. Let the car cool down and do the whole thing again one more time from the begining.
#15
WOOHOOO!
Found the problem!
fuse no5 in rear sam/fusebox was totally missing!
i got a new rear sam fitted a couple of months ago just when i got the car.
fitted the fuse and can hear the pump running now!
removed the fuse again and pump deff doesnt work!
so poor car was getting too hot!
HAPPY DAYS
I ordered the i/c isolation kit as its got to be a good thing.
Found the problem!
fuse no5 in rear sam/fusebox was totally missing!
i got a new rear sam fitted a couple of months ago just when i got the car.
fitted the fuse and can hear the pump running now!
removed the fuse again and pump deff doesnt work!
so poor car was getting too hot!
HAPPY DAYS
I ordered the i/c isolation kit as its got to be a good thing.
#17
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Porsche 2004 911
Even if your pump is working you may still have an issue of not properly purging air from you system (or some other obstraction). Since you don't have a separated cooling system it should be very simple to insure that you let all potential air to get out of the system. Do that first before spending any more money. Also doublecheck the fuse for the pump. Not sure which one it is but there is a fuse.
Happydays
Indie pressure tested the IC and
must have left one of the NW taps on.