New throttle body - any calibration needed?
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 587
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From: The Windy City
'02 C32, '10 135i M-Sport, '10 E63, '17 GLE63S
New throttle body - any calibration needed?
Not that there are many, but I checked through all of the TB threads I could find and couldn't find anything. I'm installing a brand new Bosch TB/TB actuator; re-did the wiring harness and it tested good with an indy shop. They said that there were codes stored in the ECU that suggested a bad TB. Symptoms were major surging at idle/low speed cruising, and then an ESP Malfunction CEL with Limp Home mode eventually.
Would resetting the throttle adaptations make any difference? Would letting the car run a TB calibration (key position 2, let sit for a few minutes) with the new unit on the car before I run the engine damage the new TB? Any insight is much appreciated.
Would resetting the throttle adaptations make any difference? Would letting the car run a TB calibration (key position 2, let sit for a few minutes) with the new unit on the car before I run the engine damage the new TB? Any insight is much appreciated.
Last edited by evilsaint; Sep 12, 2012 at 07:16 PM.
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From: East Bay, Bay Area
2002 C32, 2012 S550
This is what I got from the people that rebuilt my TB:
Throttle Body Relearn Procedure
1. Disconnect the Ground Battery Terminal before installing the unit. Before you do, save any radio codes or settings.
2. After installation, warm up the engine for a few minutes.
3. Turn off the engine, turn the key clockwise to the first position, or ignition on, without starting the car.
4. Wait for the throttle to hum, and you will hear the actuator clicking. Wait for all noises to end completely!
5. Now, without turning key off, continue turning the key clockwise and start engine.
6. Operate the vehicle for 30-40 minutes without turning off the engine, bring speed up to or over 65 mph if possible. Operate in a variety of conditions.
7. Once 30-40 minutes time period is over, return to secure parking spot and park the car. DO NOT turn engine off. Allow the car to idle for 15-20 minutes minimum!
8. When time period is over, turn engine off.
Good Luck!
Throttle Body Relearn Procedure
1. Disconnect the Ground Battery Terminal before installing the unit. Before you do, save any radio codes or settings.
2. After installation, warm up the engine for a few minutes.
3. Turn off the engine, turn the key clockwise to the first position, or ignition on, without starting the car.
4. Wait for the throttle to hum, and you will hear the actuator clicking. Wait for all noises to end completely!
5. Now, without turning key off, continue turning the key clockwise and start engine.
6. Operate the vehicle for 30-40 minutes without turning off the engine, bring speed up to or over 65 mph if possible. Operate in a variety of conditions.
7. Once 30-40 minutes time period is over, return to secure parking spot and park the car. DO NOT turn engine off. Allow the car to idle for 15-20 minutes minimum!
8. When time period is over, turn engine off.
Good Luck!
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 587
Likes: 13
From: The Windy City
'02 C32, '10 135i M-Sport, '10 E63, '17 GLE63S
How'd I guess I'd get a post from you? 
As much as I was tempted to just go with an upgrade route, as per your thread, I just sort of need my car back, like, yesterday. Driving to work in a borrowed GMC Envoy without an aux jack is mind numbing.
Anyway, thanks for the help! Crossing my fingers that it starts right back up, running like it did before the old one crapped out.
As much as I was tempted to just go with an upgrade route, as per your thread, I just sort of need my car back, like, yesterday. Driving to work in a borrowed GMC Envoy without an aux jack is mind numbing.Anyway, thanks for the help! Crossing my fingers that it starts right back up, running like it did before the old one crapped out.
This is what I got from the people that rebuilt my TB:
Throttle Body Relearn Procedure
1. Disconnect the Ground Battery Terminal before installing the unit. Before you do, save any radio codes or settings.
2. After installation, warm up the engine for a few minutes.
3. Turn off the engine, turn the key clockwise to the first position, or ignition on, without starting the car.
4. Wait for the throttle to hum, and you will hear the actuator clicking. Wait for all noises to end completely!
5. Now, without turning key off, continue turning the key clockwise and start engine.
6. Operate the vehicle for 30-40 minutes without turning off the engine, bring speed up to or over 65 mph if possible. Operate in a variety of conditions.
7. Once 30-40 minutes time period is over, return to secure parking spot and park the car. DO NOT turn engine off. Allow the car to idle for 15-20 minutes minimum!
8. When time period is over, turn engine off.
Good Luck!
Throttle Body Relearn Procedure
1. Disconnect the Ground Battery Terminal before installing the unit. Before you do, save any radio codes or settings.
2. After installation, warm up the engine for a few minutes.
3. Turn off the engine, turn the key clockwise to the first position, or ignition on, without starting the car.
4. Wait for the throttle to hum, and you will hear the actuator clicking. Wait for all noises to end completely!
5. Now, without turning key off, continue turning the key clockwise and start engine.
6. Operate the vehicle for 30-40 minutes without turning off the engine, bring speed up to or over 65 mph if possible. Operate in a variety of conditions.
7. Once 30-40 minutes time period is over, return to secure parking spot and park the car. DO NOT turn engine off. Allow the car to idle for 15-20 minutes minimum!
8. When time period is over, turn engine off.
Good Luck!
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 587
Likes: 13
From: The Windy City
'02 C32, '10 135i M-Sport, '10 E63, '17 GLE63S
No dice. Same hunting/surging idle as before and the same ESP malfunction with Limp Home mode. Any ideas? My next options would be the Steering Angle sensor or a new ECU, according to all the other threads that I've read.
At least keeping the new throttle body is viable, since it's the latest revision and my old one was the first.
At least keeping the new throttle body is viable, since it's the latest revision and my old one was the first.
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From: North NJ
2002 C32 AMG, 2013 GLK 350/4, 2015 E63S AMG Wagon
Try the old ECU reset. https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...et-smokes.htmlIt will not damage the TB. I have changed the TB twice without any special calibrations. The current TB is 80mm, not even from the C32.
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Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 587
Likes: 13
From: The Windy City
'02 C32, '10 135i M-Sport, '10 E63, '17 GLE63S
Try the old ECU reset. https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...et-smokes.htmlIt will not damage the TB. I have changed the TB twice without any special calibrations. The current TB is 80mm, not even from the C32.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,000
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From: East Bay, Bay Area
2002 C32, 2012 S550
So what do you do when it goes into Limp mode?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 587
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From: The Windy City
'02 C32, '10 135i M-Sport, '10 E63, '17 GLE63S
Tried your solution of unplugging the TB connector for a minute, then plugging it back in, key pos 2 until the clicking stops, restart, but it won't clear. I have a feeling the Limp Home might be caused by something separate from the hunting idle, but I won't really have any way to know until I fix the Limp Home. My car has been sitting in my driveway for a week or so. I literally DID limp it home the first time it happened, lol
Going to check the the engine wiring harness to the ECU tomorrow, and that weird part # that caused my ESP error way back, and then slather all the connections with enough dielectric grease to drown an elephant
Going to check the the engine wiring harness to the ECU tomorrow, and that weird part # that caused my ESP error way back, and then slather all the connections with enough dielectric grease to drown an elephant
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: East Bay, Bay Area
2002 C32, 2012 S550
Damn, I feel for you man! Good luck!
You don't have a good mechanic that can help you diagnose this problem?
My mechanic had me driving around with his Snap On Scope scanner with leads connected to my TB Wiring.
You don't have a good mechanic that can help you diagnose this problem?
My mechanic had me driving around with his Snap On Scope scanner with leads connected to my TB Wiring.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 587
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From: The Windy City
'02 C32, '10 135i M-Sport, '10 E63, '17 GLE63S
So, I think I found something. The original part that was replaced to fix this same ESP error and similar symptoms almost five years back is P# 1131500028, which seems to be the same wiring that I replaced manually, wire by wire, just a few weeks ago, similar to a picture of the repair - courtesy of 91RS.
While replacing the wiring/TB connector didn't fix the issue with the surging idle, it didn't make things any worse... until the car sat for a week in rainy whether, at which point the surging got even worse and made the car undriveable, leading and the ESP error rearing its ugly head again. This part # appears to be the entire section of wiring between the TB actuator plug and the secondary plug that, I assume, goes into the main engine wiring harness. It's piece #560 in this diagram -
.
Anyway, I never looked at the connector on the secondary piece of wiring (the one that snakes down into the engine), but with as much heat as it has soaked up through 10+ years and 136k miles, I can only assume that it could use to replaced too. For only $62.40 +S&H, is there any reason NOT to replace it and see what happens?
While replacing the wiring/TB connector didn't fix the issue with the surging idle, it didn't make things any worse... until the car sat for a week in rainy whether, at which point the surging got even worse and made the car undriveable, leading and the ESP error rearing its ugly head again. This part # appears to be the entire section of wiring between the TB actuator plug and the secondary plug that, I assume, goes into the main engine wiring harness. It's piece #560 in this diagram -
.Anyway, I never looked at the connector on the secondary piece of wiring (the one that snakes down into the engine), but with as much heat as it has soaked up through 10+ years and 136k miles, I can only assume that it could use to replaced too. For only $62.40 +S&H, is there any reason NOT to replace it and see what happens?
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 587
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From: The Windy City
'02 C32, '10 135i M-Sport, '10 E63, '17 GLE63S
Here's P# 1131500028. Certainly a lot easier than getting the individual wires and end connector to splice onto the stock wiring 
... not that it made any difference. Replaced the originally repaired cable, let the TB "calibrate", then started up to an even more horrendous idle, near instant ESP error and limp home mode. Running out of any real options here. I'm thinking of getting her towed to a dealer/somebody with a STAR box to clear the "bad TB codes" in the PCM and see if any new codes have popped up, not to mention test it real time. Does that sound
... not that it made any difference. Replaced the originally repaired cable, let the TB "calibrate", then started up to an even more horrendous idle, near instant ESP error and limp home mode. Running out of any real options here. I'm thinking of getting her towed to a dealer/somebody with a STAR box to clear the "bad TB codes" in the PCM and see if any new codes have popped up, not to mention test it real time. Does that sound
Last edited by evilsaint; Sep 18, 2012 at 08:10 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 587
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From: The Windy City
'02 C32, '10 135i M-Sport, '10 E63, '17 GLE63S
http://www.carpartswarehouse.com/parts/47-60037_ON.html
Can't remember the MB part number, but it was the same PN as the original throttle body, just a different revision number on it. Disconnected the battery for an hour while I was replacing it though, and re-calibrated the TB once I was done before I started it back up.
Can't remember the MB part number, but it was the same PN as the original throttle body, just a different revision number on it. Disconnected the battery for an hour while I was replacing it though, and re-calibrated the TB once I was done before I started it back up.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 587
Likes: 13
From: The Windy City
'02 C32, '10 135i M-Sport, '10 E63, '17 GLE63S
So, it turned out to be a vacuum leak after all. Apparently, the hose that hooks onto the bottom of the throttle body was pierced/severed lower down where I couldn't see it. Plus, the TB needed a new gasket (who knew metal gaskets go bad...). All in all, an easy repair for the guys over at Speed Driven. For anybody in Chicago, I would DEFINITELY recommend these guys.
Alex and Martin have been nothing but amazing in answering all my questions, plus just for shooting the **** and giving advice on what type of car to upgrade next. Plus, if you can't trust a shop that you walk into and see a SL65, CL65, CL600, S65, E55 + two 996 911 Turbos in, then you can't trust anybody
Alex and Martin have been nothing but amazing in answering all my questions, plus just for shooting the **** and giving advice on what type of car to upgrade next. Plus, if you can't trust a shop that you walk into and see a SL65, CL65, CL600, S65, E55 + two 996 911 Turbos in, then you can't trust anybody
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From: East Bay, Bay Area
2002 C32, 2012 S550
