Just started happening...
when I first start the vehicle it fires right away no issue, but if I put it in gear to go it will immediately kill the engine and say "BATTERY/ALTERNATOR VISIT WORKSHOP" and the engine kills itself immediately.
if I wait 2-3 minutes for it to warm up, I put it in gear and you feel it struggle for a second but it continues driving no problem..
once warmed up no issue whatsoever...

So what is it?
a bad battery, or a bad alternator?



Thanks

 

Sounds like alternator. If the battery is bad, it won't even start.

 

That's what I figured.
My other benz if the battery was weak it wouldn't even attempt to crank, I figured it was probably the same.

Does anyone know what kind of options us 32 owners have in regards to the Alternator? I am told it is made by Valeo and there are no parts available plus the Voltage Regulator is irreplaceable so the alternator is not able to be re-manufactured.
Do I have to bite the bullet and pay $450 for a new OE bosch alternator ? or are their aftermarket varieties for the 32 AMG?

The one for the 32 AMG on AutoHaus is only $180 bucks... will that one work?

 

start the car, put a multimeter on the batt terminal while the car is on, if its around 13-14 V your alternator is fine, if any less its your alternator. 90% is its your alternator. Apparently the Bosch one had problems so stick to Valeo. here is one on ebay http://www.ebay.ca/itm/350562756278?...84.m1423.l2649 and DIY if you want to do it https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...lternator.html

 

is that the right alternator? it says 8 ribbed pulley i thought it was 7?

 

I am almost certain it has a 8 ribbed pulley. a call to the dealership should confirm.

 

thanks man ill call them in the morning and see what they say... if its the right one I'll definitely pick it up for 200 bucks..

thanks dude

 

No problem , goodluck

 

Make sure your alternator is clean from any gunk/oil/crap before replacing it. I had the same issue and noticed that my oil cooler was leaking oil to the alternator, making the car runs exactly like your description.

I fixed the leak, cleaned the alternator and everything has been good since.

 

Key in position 1
Switch to kilometres (or miles) view
Press 3 times the reset button (fast)
Then press the up or down buttons ( pics attached)

This way u will know the battery voltage whether the car is on or off

 

thanks i never knew that..


it says 12.6V when off, and 13.9V when the cars running.... no issues when its warm..

ill check when i first start it in the morning and see if the voltage is significantly lower.

 

U got a new info now
Can you post a pic for ur speedo when the malfunction is appearing

 

So I checked it in the morning when it normally fails on me...
Battery said 12.2V car not running, started it and it immediately said 13.9 volts... everything good..
When I put it in reverse to back out.. it quickly dropped to 10V and the car shuddered for a second and then recovered... Does anyone know why the car would drop voltage when shifted while cold? It doesn't happen once it warms up.
That seems to be the issue, when its very cold (-15c) the voltage drops JUST enough to kill the engine.

is the belt maybe not tight enough?

 

It should be the voltage regulator. The engine/car probably demands slightly more voltage when selecting reverse/drive. The voltage regulator cannot meet it's demands on such a low RPM speed.

Take a mirror and look down behind the alternator (be careful not to touch the battery terminal on the alternator) you can see if it's a Valeo or Bosch. Either one, you can get a replacement regulator.

You can also go to a shop and get the alternator load tested. A good alternator should put out 120amps 13.8volts at 2500rpm (if I remember correctly) under amp load.

 

I was under the impression that the Voltage Regulator on the C32 AMG alternator was not replaceable and that the entire alternator must be replaced.

 

Find out if it's either a Valeo or Bosch and call the dealer. Where did you hear this from?

 

The dealers in this area are useless. They literally told me "take the alternator out and look at it yourself"

and I have seen numerous posts on this forum stating that the 32 AMG's Voltage Regulator cannot be changed.

 

If I were you I would just take the 200$ hit and change the alternator, these are signs that the alternator might be dying. Since the brushes in the alternator can be making contact sometimes, and sometimes not. Also if you had battery drain issues and boosted your car a lot recently this is another way to kill your alternator as your alternator has to work over time to charge a dead battery.


anyways, like i said, try changing the alternator its 200 bucks, voltage regulator is around 75 i believe, but youre out 75 if its the alternator.

 

give me the vin and if its a Valeo or bosch, I will let you know the part number

 

Before changing any parts I would put a voltmeter on the battery when the problem exists. I almost don't believe the VIC when it says 10V. I doubt it can be 10V at the battery, maybe it reads it internally at the ECU. Even if the alternator goes bad for that brief period of time the battery is good at 12.? volts so the car should still run fine.

It could be the alternator and I would say if you see the 10V at the battery then yes it is the alternator but if you still see 13.9 at the battery when the VIC say 10 then I would maybe start looking for electrical or connector issues.

 

Happened again this morning... Car started fine...
Put it in reverse and the engine immediately died and said "BATTERY/ALTERNATOR".

Started the car again, ran it for 3-4 minutes.... tried again... the car struggled but continued running with no issues.

What gives? Seems like I might have to bite the alternator bullet.
I'm a little confused though, because its intermittent and the VIC says 13.9 volts when the car is running.

 

the car is starting because its using the battery's power...once you shift the gear you are putting load on the alternator and it is giving up. try leaving the car idling for 20 minutes or so. If it dies idling it is your battery running the car til it drains and then dying. like i said you dont really have much options...

 

thanks.... im just going to replace the alternator, im just unsure which one to use..

if I should use a bosch remanufactured one or a valeo remanufactured unit..

 

Odd thing is if the battery has the power to start the car it should have the power to keep the car running for the first few minutes.

 

Sooo... here's an update.
I haven't had the issue since yesterday. The cars been starting/shifting/driving perfectly.

Only in the morning when I first shift it, do I have this intermittent (although happening more frequently) problem with the engine dying. Even when the engine doesn't die, it stumbles a bit and the voltage drops to about 10V... and just BARELY stays alive... again once warm no issue.

So I work as a heavy duty mechanic assistant, so I tested the battery at work and it tested fine.. 12.3 Volts 99% charge.... I didn't have a way to load test the alternator so I brought it to a shop in town here.
They load tested the alternator and found 120 Amps and 14.2 Volts... the alternator passed the load test... but albeit the car was already warmed up. I inquired about rebuilding the alternator, and they told me it was a Valeo brand which they don't make parts for... so the alternator cannot be rebuilt it must be replaced. (They wanted $440 some dollars)

Should I bring it to a shop, let it get cold and have them load test the alternator when its cold? I am at a loss at what to do... because the battery and alternator check out.
I peeked around the engine bay and checked any electrical connection to/from the battery and alternator and everything seems tight and not corroded. (the engine bay is surprisingly clean)

What gives? The voltage is dropping when shifted when its cold. Perhaps its shorting out somewhere? I just can't justify throwing a new alternator in until I know for sure that is the issue..