C32 AMG bad battery or alternator?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 241
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From: Edmonton
2003 C32 AMG
C32 AMG bad battery or alternator?
Just started happening...
when I first start the vehicle it fires right away no issue, but if I put it in gear to go it will immediately kill the engine and say "BATTERY/ALTERNATOR VISIT WORKSHOP" and the engine kills itself immediately.
if I wait 2-3 minutes for it to warm up, I put it in gear and you feel it struggle for a second but it continues driving no problem..
once warmed up no issue whatsoever...
So what is it?
a bad battery, or a bad alternator?
Thanks
when I first start the vehicle it fires right away no issue, but if I put it in gear to go it will immediately kill the engine and say "BATTERY/ALTERNATOR VISIT WORKSHOP" and the engine kills itself immediately.
if I wait 2-3 minutes for it to warm up, I put it in gear and you feel it struggle for a second but it continues driving no problem..
once warmed up no issue whatsoever...
So what is it?
a bad battery, or a bad alternator?
Thanks
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 241
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From: Edmonton
2003 C32 AMG
My other benz if the battery was weak it wouldn't even attempt to crank, I figured it was probably the same.
Does anyone know what kind of options us 32 owners have in regards to the Alternator? I am told it is made by Valeo and there are no parts available plus the Voltage Regulator is irreplaceable so the alternator is not able to be re-manufactured.
Do I have to bite the bullet and pay $450 for a new OE bosch alternator ? or are their aftermarket varieties for the 32 AMG?
The one for the 32 AMG on AutoHaus is only $180 bucks... will that one work?
Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 201
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From: Mississauga
C32 AMG x 2
start the car, put a multimeter on the batt terminal while the car is on, if its around 13-14 V your alternator is fine, if any less its your alternator. 90% is its your alternator. Apparently the Bosch one had problems so stick to Valeo. here is one on ebay http://www.ebay.ca/itm/350562756278?...84.m1423.l2649 and DIY if you want to do it https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...lternator.html
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Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 468
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From: Salt Lake City
C32, 911 SC
Make sure your alternator is clean from any gunk/oil/crap before replacing it. I had the same issue and noticed that my oil cooler was leaking oil to the alternator, making the car runs exactly like your description.
I fixed the leak, cleaned the alternator and everything has been good since.
I fixed the leak, cleaned the alternator and everything has been good since.
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 706
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From: Lebanon & Nigeria
W209 CLK55 AMG Kompressor, ATV BRP 800 CAN-AM
Key in position 1
Switch to kilometres (or miles) view
Press 3 times the reset button (fast)
Then press the up or down buttons ( pics attached)
This way u will know the battery voltage whether the car is on or off
Switch to kilometres (or miles) view
Press 3 times the reset button (fast)
Then press the up or down buttons ( pics attached)
This way u will know the battery voltage whether the car is on or off
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 241
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From: Edmonton
2003 C32 AMG
it says 12.6V when off, and 13.9V when the cars running.... no issues when its warm..
ill check when i first start it in the morning and see if the voltage is significantly lower.
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 706
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From: Lebanon & Nigeria
W209 CLK55 AMG Kompressor, ATV BRP 800 CAN-AM
Can you post a pic for ur speedo when the malfunction is appearing
Last edited by ChiCho55AMG; Jan 25, 2013 at 07:37 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 241
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From: Edmonton
2003 C32 AMG
So I checked it in the morning when it normally fails on me...
Battery said 12.2V car not running, started it and it immediately said 13.9 volts... everything good..
When I put it in reverse to back out.. it quickly dropped to 10V and the car shuddered for a second and then recovered... Does anyone know why the car would drop voltage when shifted while cold? It doesn't happen once it warms up.
That seems to be the issue, when its very cold (-15c) the voltage drops JUST enough to kill the engine.
is the belt maybe not tight enough?
Battery said 12.2V car not running, started it and it immediately said 13.9 volts... everything good..
When I put it in reverse to back out.. it quickly dropped to 10V and the car shuddered for a second and then recovered... Does anyone know why the car would drop voltage when shifted while cold? It doesn't happen once it warms up.
That seems to be the issue, when its very cold (-15c) the voltage drops JUST enough to kill the engine.
is the belt maybe not tight enough?
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 458
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From: Norcal/Socal
C63 E63
It should be the voltage regulator. The engine/car probably demands slightly more voltage when selecting reverse/drive. The voltage regulator cannot meet it's demands on such a low RPM speed.
Take a mirror and look down behind the alternator (be careful not to touch the battery terminal on the alternator) you can see if it's a Valeo or Bosch. Either one, you can get a replacement regulator.
You can also go to a shop and get the alternator load tested. A good alternator should put out 120amps 13.8volts at 2500rpm (if I remember correctly) under amp load.
Take a mirror and look down behind the alternator (be careful not to touch the battery terminal on the alternator) you can see if it's a Valeo or Bosch. Either one, you can get a replacement regulator.
You can also go to a shop and get the alternator load tested. A good alternator should put out 120amps 13.8volts at 2500rpm (if I remember correctly) under amp load.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 241
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From: Edmonton
2003 C32 AMG
It should be the voltage regulator. The engine/car probably demands slightly more voltage when selecting reverse/drive. The voltage regulator cannot meet it's demands on such a low RPM speed.
Take a mirror and look down behind the alternator (be careful not to touch the battery terminal on the alternator) you can see if it's a Valeo or Bosch. Either one, you can get a replacement regulator.
You can also go to a shop and get the alternator load tested. A good alternator should put out 120amps 13.8volts at 2500rpm (if I remember correctly) under amp load.
Take a mirror and look down behind the alternator (be careful not to touch the battery terminal on the alternator) you can see if it's a Valeo or Bosch. Either one, you can get a replacement regulator.
You can also go to a shop and get the alternator load tested. A good alternator should put out 120amps 13.8volts at 2500rpm (if I remember correctly) under amp load.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 458
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From: Norcal/Socal
C63 E63
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 241
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From: Edmonton
2003 C32 AMG
and I have seen numerous posts on this forum stating that the 32 AMG's Voltage Regulator cannot be changed.
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 201
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From: Mississauga
C32 AMG x 2
anyways, like i said, try changing the alternator its 200 bucks, voltage regulator is around 75 i believe, but youre out 75 if its the alternator.
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: OC
C32
Before changing any parts I would put a voltmeter on the battery when the problem exists. I almost don't believe the VIC when it says 10V. I doubt it can be 10V at the battery, maybe it reads it internally at the ECU. Even if the alternator goes bad for that brief period of time the battery is good at 12.? volts so the car should still run fine.
It could be the alternator and I would say if you see the 10V at the battery then yes it is the alternator but if you still see 13.9 at the battery when the VIC say 10 then I would maybe start looking for electrical or connector issues.
It could be the alternator and I would say if you see the 10V at the battery then yes it is the alternator but if you still see 13.9 at the battery when the VIC say 10 then I would maybe start looking for electrical or connector issues.
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Edmonton
2003 C32 AMG
Happened again this morning... Car started fine...
Put it in reverse and the engine immediately died and said "BATTERY/ALTERNATOR".
Started the car again, ran it for 3-4 minutes.... tried again... the car struggled but continued running with no issues.
What gives? Seems like I might have to bite the alternator bullet.
I'm a little confused though, because its intermittent and the VIC says 13.9 volts when the car is running.
Put it in reverse and the engine immediately died and said "BATTERY/ALTERNATOR".
Started the car again, ran it for 3-4 minutes.... tried again... the car struggled but continued running with no issues.
What gives? Seems like I might have to bite the alternator bullet.
I'm a little confused though, because its intermittent and the VIC says 13.9 volts when the car is running.
Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
From: Mississauga
C32 AMG x 2
Happened again this morning... Car started fine...
Put it in reverse and the engine immediately died and said "BATTERY/ALTERNATOR".
Started the car again, ran it for 3-4 minutes.... tried again... the car struggled but continued running with no issues.
What gives? Seems like I might have to bite the alternator bullet.
I'm a little confused though, because its intermittent and the VIC says 13.9 volts when the car is running.
Put it in reverse and the engine immediately died and said "BATTERY/ALTERNATOR".
Started the car again, ran it for 3-4 minutes.... tried again... the car struggled but continued running with no issues.
What gives? Seems like I might have to bite the alternator bullet.
I'm a little confused though, because its intermittent and the VIC says 13.9 volts when the car is running.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 3
From: OC
C32
the car is starting because its using the battery's power...once you shift the gear you are putting load on the alternator and it is giving up. try leaving the car idling for 20 minutes or so. If it dies idling it is your battery running the car til it drains and then dying. like i said you dont really have much options...
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 241
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From: Edmonton
2003 C32 AMG
Sooo... here's an update.
I haven't had the issue since yesterday. The cars been starting/shifting/driving perfectly.
Only in the morning when I first shift it, do I have this intermittent (although happening more frequently) problem with the engine dying. Even when the engine doesn't die, it stumbles a bit and the voltage drops to about 10V... and just BARELY stays alive... again once warm no issue.
So I work as a heavy duty mechanic assistant, so I tested the battery at work and it tested fine.. 12.3 Volts 99% charge.... I didn't have a way to load test the alternator so I brought it to a shop in town here.
They load tested the alternator and found 120 Amps and 14.2 Volts... the alternator passed the load test... but albeit the car was already warmed up. I inquired about rebuilding the alternator, and they told me it was a Valeo brand which they don't make parts for... so the alternator cannot be rebuilt it must be replaced. (They wanted $440 some dollars)
Should I bring it to a shop, let it get cold and have them load test the alternator when its cold? I am at a loss at what to do... because the battery and alternator check out.
I peeked around the engine bay and checked any electrical connection to/from the battery and alternator and everything seems tight and not corroded. (the engine bay is surprisingly clean)
What gives? The voltage is dropping when shifted when its cold. Perhaps its shorting out somewhere? I just can't justify throwing a new alternator in until I know for sure that is the issue..
I haven't had the issue since yesterday. The cars been starting/shifting/driving perfectly.
Only in the morning when I first shift it, do I have this intermittent (although happening more frequently) problem with the engine dying. Even when the engine doesn't die, it stumbles a bit and the voltage drops to about 10V... and just BARELY stays alive... again once warm no issue.
So I work as a heavy duty mechanic assistant, so I tested the battery at work and it tested fine.. 12.3 Volts 99% charge.... I didn't have a way to load test the alternator so I brought it to a shop in town here.
They load tested the alternator and found 120 Amps and 14.2 Volts... the alternator passed the load test... but albeit the car was already warmed up. I inquired about rebuilding the alternator, and they told me it was a Valeo brand which they don't make parts for... so the alternator cannot be rebuilt it must be replaced. (They wanted $440 some dollars)
Should I bring it to a shop, let it get cold and have them load test the alternator when its cold? I am at a loss at what to do... because the battery and alternator check out.
I peeked around the engine bay and checked any electrical connection to/from the battery and alternator and everything seems tight and not corroded. (the engine bay is surprisingly clean)
What gives? The voltage is dropping when shifted when its cold. Perhaps its shorting out somewhere? I just can't justify throwing a new alternator in until I know for sure that is the issue..
