Botched brake job
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Tampa FL
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Botched brake job
Well had a spare afternoon and deceided to replace my front rotors and pads. Got the drivers wheel off went to unscrew the rotor by and the mother *** torex socket broke off stripping the bolt...I tried again gently with a new torex and it just went in circles. And ideas besides having it drilled?
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Joined: Jun 2010
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2002 C32 AMG
You stripped the torx fitting on the bolt? Or broke the bolt? They make a screw extractor that has reverse cutting edges, you drill the center of the bolt and insert the extractor that way you won't ruin the threads on the caliper..
If you can get on the outside of the bolt try some vice grips. Always pre lube with pb blaster for anything rusty.
If you can get on the outside of the bolt try some vice grips. Always pre lube with pb blaster for anything rusty.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,109
Likes: 8
From: Tampa FL
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It's the single torex bolt that hold the rotor in place. With I could file it to get it it with vice grips...it sits flush with the rotors surface. I couldn't find my WD40 and thought 'it can't be on there too tight' lesson learned. I don't mind destroying it with a tap but I don't know if my black and decker drill is powerful enough...I may just bite the bullet and pay my indi to do the job and powder cost the caliper red while their at it.
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Livingston, California.
2002 c32 AMG 2012 c250 Coupe
That happened to me a couple weeks ago, I hammered in a one size bigger torx bit and took it out with a ratchet.. Dealer has those torx screws for a couple dollars, I just bought four..
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Va Beach, VA
05 C230K SS (sold), 06 C55 (sold), 08 Yamaha R1 (sold), 16 X5M
ya its happened to me several times. I've sense stopped tightening them down all the way, and i certainly dont put loctite on them anymore. First set I had to hammer a larger T-bit into it and then use a large pipe to give me better torque, the second one I had to drill out. It wouldn't even come out with a reverse drill out bolt thing.
You are not alone man.
I've also started putting anti-seize paste on the backs of all my rotors once they come off because as we all know its next to impossible to get a rotor off for maintenance behind the rotor w/o damaging the rotor with the sledge hammer it takes to remove it!!!! lol
You are not alone man.
I've also started putting anti-seize paste on the backs of all my rotors once they come off because as we all know its next to impossible to get a rotor off for maintenance behind the rotor w/o damaging the rotor with the sledge hammer it takes to remove it!!!! lol
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From: PDX
1999 C43, 2008 P30 E63, 2014 SQ5, 2024 Model Y Performance
I did something similar when I replaced my brakes. I wound up using a dremel to cut a slot in the screw, then I used an impact hammer to remove it. I tried all sorts of stuff prior with no success, the dremel and impact hammer took about 5 minutes.
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: The Windy City
'02 C32, '10 135i M-Sport, '10 E63, '17 GLE63S
Tons of good answers in this thread already for a similar problem that I have - a stripped caliper bolt. Just HAD to be the last damn bolt too.
Suggestions? It's the lower rear bolt on the front right caliper, so with the wheel turned left there should be room to get in there with a drill... should I just buy/rent a screw extractor and some new caliper bolts?
Suggestions? It's the lower rear bolt on the front right caliper, so with the wheel turned left there should be room to get in there with a drill... should I just buy/rent a screw extractor and some new caliper bolts?
