C32 AMG, C55 AMG (W203) 2001 - 2007

Help with s/c issue diagnosis (see photo)

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Old May 27, 2013 | 10:43 AM
  #1  
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'02 325 xi; '02 C32; '90 ZX; '08 CBR 6RR, '86 V45 Magna
Exclamation Help with s/c issue diagnosis (see photo)

As you can see, a jagged piece of metal came out from behind the pulley and slashed my coolant lines. This happened as I was driving about .5 mi from the car wash to my house. I saw no performance loss, but the "check coolant level" warning came up on the led display. No CEL or other lights. When I got home, I popped the hood to see the car covered in coolant. I then found the source. The aluminum line that runs in front of the serpentine was sheared right at its rubber coupler on the right side of motor (facing the motor from the front). I then looked for the cause and found the little piece of jagged metal from behind the sc pulley. I was able to turn the clutch by hand but it does not turn easily or smoothly. Anyone have a clue as to the cause? I know t can be one f many issues some much more expensive than others.
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Old May 27, 2013 | 11:09 AM
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'02 325 xi; '02 C32; '90 ZX; '08 CBR 6RR, '86 V45 Magna
Without taking the pulley off and knowing the anatomy of the pulley, I'm thinking the metal could be a spacer shim. Maybe. But what could cause the failure?
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Old May 29, 2013 | 12:51 PM
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'02 325 xi; '02 C32; '90 ZX; '08 CBR 6RR, '86 V45 Magna
Nothing. ?? No replies. As it sits I've ordered the pulle rebuild kit from mb which will run me $1200+. Throw in another several hundred for the carnage caused. I initially thought seized bearing. But my mechanic tells me the rogue metal piece part of the clutch mechanism. I checked it out myself and it doesn't appear the debris from a seized bearing. I'm told the clutch freewheels until engaged electronically with the ever turning pulley. When engaged, there is metal pieces on the rear of the pulley that hook up to the clutch. One of those pieces went AWoL causing all the carnage. It sliced the aluminum and rubber air pump line (which are *** worthless), a coolant line under that and even cracked chunks out of the idler pulley to the left of sc pulley. There even appears a slight crack in the right side air in take.

All I want to know is whether the pulley is shot or whether this could all becaused by a bad bearing. Mind you, I've never had any prior indication that the bearing was on its way out. So could my mechanic be correct? Bare in mind, he's my dads best friend and isn't trying to f us over.
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Old May 29, 2013 | 03:14 PM
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Why don't you just buy a replacement pulley from Eurocharged?
You get a little more power and it's much cheaper.
http://www.eurocharged.com/products/mercedes-tuning/c-class/c32/pulleys/eurocharged-c32-slk-amg-supercharger-pulley-detail
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Old May 30, 2013 | 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Gramma_Benz
Why don't you just buy a replacement pulley from Eurocharged?
You get a little more power and it's much cheaper.
http://www.eurocharged.com/products/mercedes-tuning/c-class/c32/pulleys/eurocharged-c32-slk-amg-supercharger-pulley-detail
Amen.
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Old May 30, 2013 | 07:54 AM
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'02 325 xi; '02 C32; '90 ZX; '08 CBR 6RR, '86 V45 Magna
Originally Posted by Gramma_Benz
Why don't you just buy a replacement pulley from Eurocharged?
You get a little more power and it's much cheaper.
http://www.eurocharged.com/products/mercedes-tuning/c-class/c32/pulleys/eurocharged-c32-slk-amg-supercharger-pulley-detail
That's not what I'm looking for. I need my car to be everyday reliable. I know nothing about the longevity of an aftermarket pulley. In any event, your post is unresponsive. I asked a question and you diverted to another topic. Thanks anyway.
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Old May 30, 2013 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by macbryanie
Amen.
Ditto
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Old May 30, 2013 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by link146
That's not what I'm looking for. I need my car to be everyday reliable. I know nothing about the longevity of an aftermarket pulley. In any event, your post is unresponsive. I asked a question and you diverted to another topic. Thanks anyway.
we have customers with over 80k miles on full stage 3 builds (myself included) Just simply running a sc pulley will be perfectly reliable.

Our pulley was made to OEM specs...
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Old May 30, 2013 | 09:38 AM
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Also as a suggestion, have a good look at the clutch and perhaps take the clutch to a machinist and have it shaved to be perfectly flat. Mine was ever so sightly out and had started to wear (again ever so sightly) the connecting plate of the previous replacement pulley (EC 65mm) A result of a perfectly flat pulley(new) and a worn clutch. I took the s/c to a local machinist and got the clutch shaved flat and installed the EC 61mm. A new clutch surface for a new pulley. With your situation the clutch could have be worn which over time imbalanced the revolutions of the pulley and may have been the catalyst of the pulley popping that small rivet(?) and a bit flinging off and cutting up that metal egr hose thing. Or the shim setting was too far out increasing wear over time. Your car is over 10yrs old. New parts on worn components may have an adverse effect with the balance of the assembly. Perhaps that is where some chirp sounds(slip) originate and slippage stops once the surfaces bed in. Don't know - I am no engineer nor mechanic. But for my experience I have had over 40,000kms with EC pulleys. (65mm &61mm) No issues at all.

Last edited by macbryanie; May 30, 2013 at 09:40 AM.
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Old May 30, 2013 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by link146
All I want to know is whether the pulley is shot or whether this could all becaused by a bad bearing. M
Looks to me that your pulley is shot - as it is missing metal.
You will get a new bearing with the new pulley.
Have a look at the pdf on this thread - pdf Code 3 Pulley install
https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...ns-thread.html

Last edited by macbryanie; May 30, 2013 at 10:14 AM.
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Old May 30, 2013 | 11:53 AM
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a car that can't do the throttle reset.
Originally Posted by link146
That's not what I'm looking for. I need my car to be everyday reliable. I know nothing about the longevity of an aftermarket pulley. In any event, your post is unresponsive. I asked a question and you diverted to another topic. Thanks anyway.
lol. Don't get any sand in your clam. Salty McSalterson over here.

Guy offered some help when you mentioned price. His post was more "responsive" than your pulley.
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Old May 30, 2013 | 12:37 PM
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Thanks for relevant responses. All that I was and still am seeking is a reason as to why the clutch on the rear of the pulley blew apart. It seems that pulley, clutch, clutch pulley, and fieldcoil are used interchangeably on the forum. I just wanted some assistance in diagnosis why the clutch - attached to the rear of the pulley assembly - catastrophically failed. I've not seen any write ups like that before. All problems that I've read about deal with a bad sc pulley bearing. No offense intended, I just wanted to know if anyone experienced similar failure and under what circumstances.

I was departing a car wash about 3/4 mi from home. No problems when I entered the car wash but after I came out, hit the accelerator to clean all the tire shiner crap that coats every inch of the lot. So a quick spin of the tires before pulling out on main road. Perhaps the quick change in temps caused the failure. I don't know. I do know, that by the time I reached the jug handle (New Jersey left turn), my coolant level was reading low. We are talking maybe 500 yds from point I excited the lot, spun tires, hit the jug handle. PS- plastic shroud was off motor as I had been servicing the engine earlier that day.
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 01:30 PM
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$1700 all said and done for MB pulley kit, tensioner pulley, aluminum air pump hose, rubber coupler and coolant hose under the air line and labor. That's not too bad. What's a MB dealer charge for work like that? MB wanted $1500 just for the kit. Dealer cost was $1200.
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 03:19 PM
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It looks to be "metal spring", there is 3 of them. Sometime those just brake apart. Easy to fix for metalman.
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 03:39 PM
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a car.
Happened to me....get a new or used pulley and replace it (15 minute job) then replace any hoses it sliced up and top off your coolant. Easy peasy.
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by chris.bachman
Happened to me....get a new or used pulley and replace it (15 minute job) then replace any hoses it sliced up and top off your coolant. Easy peasy.
It happend to you with OEM or EC pulley?
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 03:57 PM
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It was a prototype EC pulley, the first 65MM they had made. Ran the production 65MM for about 10k miles with no issues and then moved to the 61MM and I've had no issues on it for about 5k miles.

Last edited by chris.bachman; Jun 3, 2013 at 04:00 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by chris.bachman
It was a prototype EC pulley, the first 65MM they had made. Ran the production 65MM for about 10k miles with no issues and then moved to the 61MM and I've had no issues on it for about 5k miles.
Prototypes don't count. The OEM spring is made out of spring steel. I never heard of OEM spring breaking. Maybe the rivets came off.
Link, can you take off the pulley and take some pictures?
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 04:29 PM
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Not an AMG :(
Originally Posted by link146
As you can see, a jagged piece of metal came out from behind the pulley and slashed my coolant lines. This happened as I was driving about .5 mi from the car wash to my house. I saw no performance loss, but the "check coolant level" warning came up on the led display. No CEL or other lights. When I got home, I popped the hood to see the car covered in coolant. I then found the source. The aluminum line that runs in front of the serpentine was sheared right at its rubber coupler on the right side of motor (facing the motor from the front). I then looked for the cause and found the little piece of jagged metal from behind the sc pulley. I was able to turn the clutch by hand but it does not turn easily or smoothly. Anyone have a clue as to the cause? I know t can be one f many issues some much more expensive than others.
Are you sure the piece of jagged metal associated with the SC pulley is from the SC pulley itself? I think it may be from the aluminum conduit.

I wouldn't be surprised if the aluminum conduit from the secondary air injection pump system came free from the rubber coupler and made contact with the SC pulley. There is a natural stress on the left secondary air injection conduit to deviate towards the supercharger.
The reason I think this may be a possibility is because first, your rubber coupler looks cracked and aged, and second, it doesn't take a lot for that aluminum conduit to be pulled out of the rubber coupling. Were you pressure washing your car?

I'm glad your motor is most likely fine though!

Purchasing everything new from the dealer will cost a lot, no doubt. If you have another car to drive in the meantime, you could put a WTB ad on this forum and the X-fire forum and pick up a used one from somebody who has upgraded theirs.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by boohooramblers
Are you sure the piece of jagged metal associated with the SC pulley is from the SC pulley itself? I think it may be from the aluminum conduit.

I wouldn't be surprised if the aluminum conduit from the secondary air injection pump system came free from the rubber coupler and made contact with the SC pulley. There is a natural stress on the left secondary air injection conduit to deviate towards the supercharger.
The reason I think this may be a possibility is because first, your rubber coupler looks cracked and aged, and second, it doesn't take a lot for that aluminum conduit to be pulled out of the rubber coupling. Were you pressure washing your car?
The conduit is held in place by two bolts, so the rubber couplers aren't the only thing immobilizing the conduit.

Last edited by Grip Grip; Jun 8, 2013 at 10:49 AM.
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by boohooramblers
Are you sure the piece of jagged metal associated with the SC pulley is from the SC pulley itself? I think it may be from the aluminum conduit.

I wouldn't be surprised if the aluminum conduit from the secondary air injection pump system came free from the rubber coupler and made contact with the SC pulley. There is a natural stress on the left secondary air injection conduit to deviate towards the supercharger.
The reason I think this may be a possibility is because first, your rubber coupler looks cracked and aged, and second, it doesn't take a lot for that aluminum conduit to be pulled out of the rubber coupling. Were you pressure washing your car?

I'm glad your motor is most likely fine though!

Purchasing everything new from the dealer will cost a lot, no doubt. If you have another car to drive in the meantime, you could put a WTB ad on this forum and the X-fire forum and pick up a used one from somebody who has upgraded theirs.
No. After pulling all apart it was clear that one of the pulley armatures went haywire. It's the photo looks like the cut was super clean that's because I trimmed off the carnage in an attempt to jury rig the air and coolant HOses. It even whacked tensioner pulley #1 and took a sizableble chunk out of its flanges.
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Grip Grip
The conduit is held in place by two bolts, so the rubber couplers aren't the only thing immobilizing the conduit.
Agree. That thing doesn't move. It's firmly in place.
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