Things to look for in a C32 (
If there is another thread, or this is a worthless question, please let me know.
-Bob_Dole
I would check a whole bunch of things.. for example:
Warning and indicator lamps, illumination and interior lighting. The xenon system is very expensive.
Windshield wiper, windshield washer system, headlamp cleaning system.
I would also check front brake pads for lining thickness, check the tires for damage and condition. Also check for correct inflation pressure (may indicate it wasn't taken care of)
Check the engine oil level on the computer in the car.
Check the brake system, and the safety catch and hinges on the engine hood.
Check the electronics system, the battery for correct fluid level.. perform a Midtronics AVR test on the vehicle.
I would also check the seat belts for damage and proper function.
Have the seller replace the dust filter, and combination air filter.
Major things I would look for are on the underside of the vehicle.
Check for chafe marks, line routing, damaged components. Check for leakage.
Check the condition of the front axle ball joints, and rubber boots (bushings)
Check all the steering mechanical components and tie rods and bushings.
Also carefully inspect the engine compartment.. most C32's will develop valve cover leaks.
Check the following fluids:
Brake Fluid
Power Steering
Coolant
Engine Oil.
Every 80,000km or 4 years whichever comes first
Check condition of the driveshaft flex disc. This is a very common problem.. they rot out. They connect the engine to the transmission, and the driveshaft to the differential.
Every 100,000km or 5 years
Replace the fuel filter
Replace the activated charcoal filter.
Check and replace the poly-V belt if required.
Every 250,000km or 10 years
Completely flush the coolant system.
Every 2 years:
replace the brake fluid
inspection suspension and body structure, and inspect the body for paint damage.
Every 3 years:
Lubricate and clean the sliding rails and guides of the panorama sun roof.
The spark plugs and wires (all 12 of them) are required to be changed on the C32 at approximately every 160,000KM or 5 YEARS!!! They are probably due for a change!!
That is the tip of the iceburg. The C32 has known issues with the intercooler pump dying.. It is probably dead or on its way out around 78K miles. Also the intercooler itself will sometimes develop an interal leak... which can only be checked by removing the breather cover and looking for evidence of coolant. (common on the 2002 model, not so much on the 2003). Also the radiator is sometimes prone to leaking coolant into the transmission... severely shorting the life and possibly damaging it.
I don't want to scare you from owning a C32 as they are great cars... but if you are not able to do DIY repairs this car will cost you an arm and a leg.
Honestly, take it to someone who knows Mercedes!!
Thanks Supgee, I've got a guy who does the work on my C240 right now, so I'm going to have him give it a once over, or I might take it to a Mercedes mechanic (maybe the stealership?).
I wouldn't be surprised if the pump is out or going out, and I'll have to read up on the IC leaks D:
Are the coil packs necessary to replace with the wires and plugs?
I will be replacing almost all of the fluids, and belts.
I'm leaving after work to check it out, hopefully I can run it over to my mechanic soon then make her mine, if she's up to muster that is.
Can anyone recommend some Houston area mechs to take a look?
Save yourself the headache, I have read about and seen lemon C32's that have been bagged to hell.

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I've been looking at a few mods through Eurocharged, and its not far away!
Trying to decide on some mods to do, but there won't be some for at least a few weeks. Any 'Must haves'?
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I know for a fact I'll be switching the pump as soon as I get it. and then I'll looking into Pulleys and a tune, but this will be my daily driver (albeit a 10mi round trip commute) so we'll see what gets thrown into the mix.
Outside looks clean
78k Mi '02
They want $13800
Bad:
Headliner is separating in the back, I told them if it isn't replace it's going to take a lot to get me to buy it
Power seats weren't working during the Test, probably a fuse, but made it difficult to test
Smelled like they were trying to cover smoke, not terrible, but present
Going to take it to my mechanic to take a look, Motorwerks wants $250 to check it out, so maybe right before I buy it.
I'll post a recording of the motor sound and see what y'all think, but it hasn't run in a while so I'll have to go to my mechanic.
All in all, fix the headliner, and it's mechanically solid, and I'd get it.
Thoughts/suggestions?
I would check the steering wheel motors to see if they are still working as they go out often, along with the seat heaters.
Cycle through the A/C venting and make sure the servo motors change the air flow accordingly( defrost, all front, feet ext) as those go out and cost a grip to fix.
I'd also make then fix everything BEFORE you buy it as sometimes when they get in there to repair stuff it ends up costing more than quoted.
Last edited by Enigma94; Jun 21, 2013 at 03:21 PM.
I would check the steering wheel motors to see if they are still working as they go out often, along with the seat heaters.
Cycle through the A/C venting and make sure the servo motors change the air flow accordingly( defrost, all front, feet ext) as those go out and cost a grip to fix.
I'd also make then fix everything BEFORE you buy it as sometimes when they get in there to repair stuff it ends up costing more than quoted.
There's a private seller close to me with 56k mi on it, but they've got it listed for 15.5k

Here's the noise I was talking about, but then again, I could be paranoid. Noise
Last edited by Bob_Dole; Jun 21, 2013 at 04:00 PM.
It is probably more likely that they unplugged the seat control modules due to failure (which draws current from and kills the battery) or another control module failure.
Make sure that isn't the issue - i.e. I'd be making sure I verified the seat control modules were plugged in, and witness a start up at least overnight to see if the battery is drained.
It is probably more likely that they unplugged the seat control modules due to failure (which draws current from and kills the battery) or another control module failure.
Make sure that isn't the issue - i.e. I'd be making sure I verified the seat control modules were plugged in, and witness a start up at least overnight to see if the battery is drained.
I'll definitely make sure to keep a look out and mention these to my mechanic, I'll have it all day Monday (0800-1700), but I can't keep it over night, would this be enough time to check drain? Also, where would the harnesses be? so I can see if they've been messed.
Looking at moving closer to the $11k mark the more I research and think about it, then again, if this isn;t the one for me, it won't be the end of the world, I can always keep looking.
Last edited by Bob_Dole; Jun 21, 2013 at 07:41 PM.
I'm still going to take it to the mechanic on monday, mainly so I can drive the crap of it, lol.
I'll keep up the search, but now I've got a good list, hopefully I can find myself one.
I would check a whole bunch of things.. for example:
Warning and indicator lamps, illumination and interior lighting. The xenon system is very expensive.
Windshield wiper, windshield washer system, headlamp cleaning system.
I would also check front brake pads for lining thickness, check the tires for damage and condition. Also check for correct inflation pressure (may indicate it wasn't taken care of)
Check the engine oil level on the computer in the car.
Check the brake system, and the safety catch and hinges on the engine hood.
Check the electronics system, the battery for correct fluid level.. perform a Midtronics AVR test on the vehicle.
I would also check the seat belts for damage and proper function.
Have the seller replace the dust filter, and combination air filter.
Major things I would look for are on the underside of the vehicle.
Check for chafe marks, line routing, damaged components. Check for leakage.
Check the condition of the front axle ball joints, and rubber boots (bushings)
Check all the steering mechanical components and tie rods and bushings.
Also carefully inspect the engine compartment.. most C32's will develop valve cover leaks.
Check the following fluids:
Brake Fluid
Power Steering
Coolant
Engine Oil.
Every 80,000km or 4 years whichever comes first
Check condition of the driveshaft flex disc. This is a very common problem.. they rot out. They connect the engine to the transmission, and the driveshaft to the differential.
Every 100,000km or 5 years
Replace the fuel filter
Replace the activated charcoal filter.
Check and replace the poly-V belt if required.
Every 250,000km or 10 years
Completely flush the coolant system.
Every 2 years:
replace the brake fluid
inspection suspension and body structure, and inspect the body for paint damage.
Every 3 years:
Lubricate and clean the sliding rails and guides of the panorama sun roof.
The spark plugs and wires (all 12 of them) are required to be changed on the C32 at approximately every 160,000KM or 5 YEARS!!! They are probably due for a change!!
That is the tip of the iceburg. The C32 has known issues with the intercooler pump dying.. It is probably dead or on its way out around 78K miles. Also the intercooler itself will sometimes develop an interal leak... which can only be checked by removing the breather cover and looking for evidence of coolant. (common on the 2002 model, not so much on the 2003). Also the radiator is sometimes prone to leaking coolant into the transmission... severely shorting the life and possibly damaging it.
I don't want to scare you from owning a C32 as they are great cars... but if you are not able to do DIY repairs this car will cost you an arm and a leg.
Honestly, take it to someone who knows Mercedes!!









